A stepper motor to satisfy all your robotics needs! This 4-wire bipolar stepper has 1.8° per step for smooth motion and a nice holding torque. The motor was specified to have a max current of 350mA so that it could be driven easily with an Adafruit motor shield for Arduino (or other motor driver) and a wall adapter or lead-acid battery.

Some nice details include a ready-to-go cable and a machined drive shaft (so you can easily attach stuff). We drove it with an Adafruit motor shield for Arduino and it hummed along nicely at 50 RPM. To connect to our shield, put the wires in this order: Red, Yellow, skip ground, Green, Brown (or Gray)

Make a nice portable power pack with this 4 x AA battery holder. It fits any alkaline or rechargeable AA batteries in series. There's a snap on cover and an on/off switch which can be handy when wiring to something without a switch.

The four batteries are held in series, for a nominal output of 6V DC for alkaline (6.4V when fresh, 4V when dead), and 4.8V DC for rechargeables (5.2V when fully charged, 4.4V when discharged). Using rechargeables will make this work nicely with nearly any 5V project, with alkalines you may want to put a 1N4001 in series to drop the voltage from 6V down to 5.3V.

Add even more power to your robot with this metal-geared servo. The tiny little servo can rotate approximately 180 degrees (~90 in each direction), and works just like the standard kinds you're used to but smaller. You can use any servo code, hardware or library to control these servos. Good for beginners who want to make stuff move without building a motor controller with feedback & gear box, especially since it will fit in small places. Despite its size, this micro-servo is as strong as many 'standard' size servos! Works great with the Motor Shield for Arduino, our 16-channel Servo Driver, or by just wiring up with the Servo library. Comes with a few horns and hardware.

This micro servo packs a big punch for its little size.  it's just a little bit bigger than our High Torque Metal Gear Micro Servo but runs with almost double the stall torque.

To control with an Arduino, we suggest connecting the orange control wire to pin 9 or 10 and using the Servo library included with the Arduino IDE (see here for an example sketch). Position "0" (1.5ms pulse) is middle, "90" (~2ms pulse) is all the way to the right, "-90" (~1ms pulse) is all the way to the left. Note that unlike most servos you may be familiar with, this one does not have mechanical stops!

Stretch out your servo connections with this flexible servo extension cord. It has a 3 pin shrouded "male" connection to plug your servo into and then, 50cm later, a 3 pin female connection. It even keeps the common red/black/white color coding. A great add-on to our 16 channel PWM/Servo driver and goes with all the servos we carry.

This servo rotates fully forward or backwards instead of moving to a position. You can use any servo code, hardware or library to control these servos. Good for making simple moving robots. Comes with four different horns, as shown.

To control with an Arduino, we suggest connecting the control wire to pin 9 or 10 and using the Servo library included with the Arduino IDE (see here for an example sketch). Position "90" (1.5ms pulse) is stop, "180" (2ms pulse) is full speed forward, "0" (1ms pulse) is full speed backwards. They may require some simple calibration, simply tell the servo to 'stop' and then gently adjust the potentiometer in the recessed hole with a small screwdriver until the servo stops moving.

Note: This product no longer includes the hole to adjust the Zero point.

This high-torque standard servo can rotate approximately 180 degrees (90 in each direction). You can use any servo code, hardware or library to control these servos. Good for beginners who want to make stuff move without building a motor controller with feedback & gear box. Comes with 3 horns, as shown. They aren't the highest quality servo (which is why they are less expensive) and so are not suggested for hobby planes. We now carry the Tower-Pro SG-5010.

To control with an Arduino, we suggest connecting the orange control wire to pin 9 or 10 and using the Servo library included with the Arduino IDE (see here for an example sketch). Position "0" (1.5ms pulse) is middle, "90" (~2ms pulse) is all the way to the right, "-90" (~1ms pulse) is all the way to the left.

Need to make a tiny robot? This little micro servo rotates 360 degrees fully forward or backwards, instead of moving to a single position. You can use any servo code, hardware or library to control these servos. Good for making simple moving robots. Comes with five horns and attachment screws, as shown.

Good for beginners who want to make stuff move without building a motor controller with feedback & gear box, especially since it will fit in small places. Of course, its not nearly as strong as a standard servo. Works great with the Motor Shield for Arduino, our 16-channel Servo Driver, or by just wiring up with the Servo library.

To control with an Arduino, we suggest connecting the orange control wire to pin 9 or 10 and using the Servo library included with the Arduino IDE (see here for an example sketch). Position "90" (1.5ms pulse) is stop, "180" (2ms pulse) is full speed forward, "0" (1ms pulse) is full speed backwards. They may require some simple calibration, simply tell the servo to 'stop' and then gently adjust the potentiometer in the recessed hole with a small screwdriver until the servo stops moving.

This is just about the cutest, tiniest little micro servo we could find, even smaller than the 9 gram micro servos we love so much.  It can rotate approximately 180 degrees (90 in each direction) and works just like the standard kind you're used to but much smaller.  You can use any servo code, hardware or library to control these servos. Good for beginners who want to make stuff move without building a motor controller with feedback & gear box, especially since it will fit in small places. Of course, its not nearly as strong as a standard servo. Works great with the Motor Shield for Arduino or by just wiring up with the Servo library. Comes with a few horns and hardware.

To control with an Arduino, we suggest connecting the orange control wire to pin 9 or 10 and using the Servo library included with the Arduino IDE (see here for an example sketch). Position "0" (1.5ms pulse) is middle, "90" (~2ms pulse) is all the way to the right, "-90" (~1ms pulse) is all the way to the left.

Make a portable power brick with plenty of juice! Use Alkaline AA's for a 9V 3000-4000mAh power supply, or rechargeable NiMH for 2000mAh 7.5V supply. Either one is good for running electronics that have a 5V voltage regulator (thus requiring a 7V+ supply). Will last about 10 times longer than a 9VPerfect for portable Arduinos! Batteries not included

This is a special-purpose charger just for the rechargeable LIR2450 Lithium Ion coin cells. Slide the coin cell in the right way, and plug into any USB port to recharge - so easy! Takes about 3 hours to charge up, when its done, the green DONE LED will light up to let you know.Rechargeable coin cell is not included, but we have 'em in the shop hereCharging is performed in three stages: first a preconditioning charge, then a constant-current 45mA fast charge and finally a constant-voltage trickle charge to keep the battery topped-up.Only for use with rechargeable LIR2450 cells! Do not try to recharge non-rechargeable Lithium coin batteries! Do not charge unattended, do not charge damaged cells.

Lithium Ion Coin Cell Charger (16:34)

Oh so adorable, this is the tiniest little lipo charger, so handy you can keep it any project box! Its also easy to use. Simply plug in the gold plated contacts into any USB port and a 3.7V/4.2V lithium polymer or lithium ion rechargeable battery into the JST plug on the other end. There are two LEDs - one red and one green. While charging, the red LED is lit. When the battery is fully charged and ready for use, the green LED turns on. Seriously, it could not get more easy.Charging is performed in three stages: first a preconditioning charge, then a constant-current fast charge and finally a constant-voltage trickle charge to keep the battery topped-up. The charge current is 100mA by default, so it will work with any size battery and USB port. If you want you can easily change it over to 500mA mode by soldering closed the jumper on the back, for when you'll only be charging batteries with 500mAh size or larger.For use with Adafruit LiPoly/LiIon batteries only! Other batteries may have different voltage, chemistry, polarity or pinout.

Comes assembled and tested with a free bonus JST cable!

5V input via PCB-style USB connector

For charging single Lithium Ion/Lithium Polymer 3.7/4.2v batteries (not for older 3.6/4.1v cells)

100mA charge current, adjustable to 500mA by soldering a jumper closed

Free 2-pin JST cable included!

The MicroLipo charger can get hot during charging. Grab it by the sides and unplug then let cool before removing the battery - take care not to touch the components during charging!

Batteries not included.

Adafruit Micro Lipo - USB LiIon/LiPoly charger (18:22)

Oh so handy, this little lipo charger is so small and easy to use you can keep it on your desk or mount it easily into any project! Simply plug it via any MicroUSB cable into a USB port and a 3.7V/4.2V lithium polymer or lithium ion rechargeable battery into the JST plug on the other end. There are two LEDs - one red and one green. While charging, the red LED is lit. When the battery is fully charged and ready for use, the green LED turns on. Seriously, it could not get more easy.Charging is performed in three stages: first a preconditioning charge, then a constant-current fast charge and finally a constant-voltage trickle charge to keep the battery topped-up. The charge current is 100mA by default, so it will work with any size battery and USB port. If you want you can easily change it over to 500mA mode by soldering closed the jumper on the front, for when you'll only be charging batteries with 500mAh size or larger.For use with Adafruit LiPoly/LiIon batteries only! Other batteries may have different voltage, chemistry, polarity or pinout.

Comes assembled and tested with a free bonus JST cable!

5V input via Micro-B USB connector

For charging single Lithium Ion/Lithium Polymer 3.7/4.2v batteries (not for older 3.6/4.1v cells)

100mA charge current, adjustable to 500mA by soldering a jumper closed

Batteries not included.

If you've been diggin' our monochome OLEDs but need something bigger, this display will delight you. These displays are 2.3" diagonal, and very readable due to the high contrast of an OLED display. This display is made of 128x32 individual blue OLED pixels, each one is turned on or off by the controller chip. Because the display makes its own light, no backlight is required. This reduces the power required to run the OLED and is why the display has such high contrast; we really like this graphic display for its crispness!

The driver chip, SSD1305 can communicate in three ways: 8-bit, I2C or SPI. Personally we think SPI is the way to go, only 4 or 5 wires are required and its very fast. The OLED itself requires a 3.3V power supply and 3.3V logic levels for communication. We include a breadboard-friendly level shifter that can convert 3V or 5V down to 3V, so it can be used with 5V-logic devices like Arduino.

The power requirements depend a little on how much of the display is lit but on average the display uses about 50mA from the 3.3V supply. Built into the OLED driver is a simple boost converter that turns 3.3V into a high voltage drive for the OLEDs. The boost converter which may make a squeaking/buzzing noise, which you can minimize by adding hot-glue or foam tape around the inductor but may not be completely removable.

Each order comes with one assembled OLED module with a nice bezel and 4 mounting holes. The display is 3V logic & power so we include a HC4050 level shifter. We also toss in a 220uF capacitor, as we noticed an Arduino may need a little more capacitance on the 3.3V power supply for this big display! This display does not come with header attached but we do toss in a stick of header you can solder on. Also, the display may come in 8-bit mode. You can change modes from 8-bit to SPI or I2C with a little soldering, check out the tutorial for how to do so.

Getting started is easy! We have a detailed tutorial and example code in the form of an Arduino library for text and graphics. You'll need a microcontroller with more than 512 bytes of RAM since the display must be buffered. The library can print text, bitmaps, pixels, rectangles, circles and lines. It uses 512 bytes of RAM since it needs to buffer the entire display but its very fast! The code is simple to adapt to any other microcontroller.

This is a fancy upgrade to standard 16x2 LCDs, instead of just having blue and white, or red and black, this LCD has full color RGB characters on a dark/black background! That means you can change the character display colors to anything you want - red, green, blue, pink, white, purple yellow, teal, salmon, chartreuse. This LCD looks strikingly good in personWe had these custom made to our specification so that you can use them in existing LCD projects and they'll still work - just that only the red LED will be used (so it will appear red-on-black). The extra two pins (17 and 18) are for the green and blue LEDs. The LCD has resistors on board already so that you can drive it with 5V logic and the current draw will be ~20mA per LED. There's a single LED backlight for the entire display, the image above showing 3 colors at once is a composite!Comes with a single 16x2 RGB backlight LCD, 10K necessary contrast potentiometer and strip of header. Our tutorials and diagrams will have you up and running in no time! For more information, check out our detailed step-by-step tutorial for both Arduino & CircuitPython

This new Adafruit Pi Plate makes it easy to use an RGB 16x2 Character LCD. We really like the RGB Character LCDs we stock in the shop. (For RGB we have RGB negative and RGB positive.) Unfortunately, these LCDs do require quite a few digital pins, 6 to control the LCD and then another 3 to control the RGB backlight for a total of 9 pins. That's nearly all the GPIO available on a Pi!With this in mind, we wanted to make it easier for people to get these LCD into their projects so we devised a Pi plate that lets you control a 16x2 Character LCD, up to 3 backlight pins AND 5 keypad pins using only the two I2C pins on the R-Pi! The best part is you don't really lose those two pins either, since you can stick i2c-based sensors, RTCs, etc and have them share the I2C bus. This is a super slick way to add a display without all the wiring hassle.New, we've updated this Pi plate so the buttons on on the right side, which makes it a little more mechanically stableThis pi plate is perfect for when you want to build a stand-alone project with its own user interface. The 4 directional buttons plus select button allows basic control without having to attach a bulky computer.The plate is designed for both Revision 1 and Revision 2 Raspberry Pi's. It uses the I2C (SDA/SCL) pins. We have a special xtra-tall 26-pin header so the plate sits above the USB and Ethernet jacks. For Pi Model B+ and Pi 2, the resistors sit right above the new set of USB ports. To keep them from shorting against the metal, a piece of electrical tape must be placed onto the USB ports.This product comes as a kit! Included is a high quality PCB and all the components (buttons, header etc). A 16x2 Character RGB positive LCD is included! Assembly is easy, even if you've never soldered before and the kit can be completed in 30 minutes. Check the product tutorial page for assembly instructions before purchasingWe also have some handy Python code to help you easily talk to the LCD and buttons You can also easily query the 5 keypad buttons to get input through the library, so you get extra buttons without using any more pins. The buttons are automatically de-bounced inside the library.At this time, the code and plate can control the RGB backlight of our character LCDs by turning each LED on or off. This means you can display the following colors: Red, Yellow, Green, Teal, Blue, Violet, White and all off. There is no support for PWM control of the backlight at this time, so if you need to have more granular control of the RGB backlight to display a larger range of colors, this plate can't do that (the I2C expander does not have PWM output).Product page with tutorials, documentation and assembly information

If you've been diggin' our monochome OLEDs but need something bigger, this display will delight you. These displays are 2.7" diagonal, and very readable due to the high contrast of an OLED display. This display is made of 128x64 individual white OLED pixels, each one is turned on or off by the controller chip. Because the display makes its own light, no backlight is required. This reduces the power required to run the OLED and is why the display has such high contrast; we really like this graphic display for its crispness!

The driver chip, SSD1325 can communicate in two ways: 8-bit or SPI. Personally we think SPI is the way to go, only 4 or 5 wires are required. The OLED itself requires a 3.3V power supply and 3.3V logic levels for communication. We include a breadboard-friendly level shifter that can convert 3V or 5V down to 3V, so it can be used with 5V-logic devices like Arduino.

The power requirements depend a little on how much of the display is lit but on average the display uses about 50-150mA from the 3.3V supply. Built into the OLED driver is a simple boost converter that turns 3.3V into a high voltage drive for the OLEDs. The boost converter which may make a squeaking/buzzing noise, which you can minimize by adding hot-glue or foam tape around the inductor but may not be completely removable.

Each order comes with one assembled OLED module with a nice bezel and 4 mounting holes. The display is 3V logic & power so we include a 74HC4050 (or compatible) level shifter. We also toss in a 220uF capacitor, as we noticed an Arduino may need a little more capacitance on the 3.3V power supply for this big display! This display does not come with header attached but we do toss in a stick of header you can solder on. Also, the display may come in 8-bit mode. You can change modes from 8-bit to SPI with a little soldering, check out the tutorial for how to do so.

Getting started is easy! We have a detailed tutorial and example code in the form of an Arduino library for text and graphics. You'll need a microcontroller with more than 1K of RAM since the display must be buffered. The library can print text, bitmaps, pixels, rectangles, circles and lines. It uses 1K of RAM since it needs to buffer the entire display but its very fast! The code is simple to adapt to any other microcontroller.

A stylish and super slim (7mm) 3x16 character display with 3 RGB backlights for flair from our friends at Pimoroni. On the PCB there's a handy 9-segment bar-graph for indicators and a 4-direction joystick with a push button for navigation. The Pimoroni Display-O-Tron 3000 also comes with full Pimoroni Python support so you can get it up and running easily.

The DoT3k works with model B+, model B, model A+, and model A Raspberry Pi's.

Brand new and better than ever, we've replaced our Adafruit GPS shield kit with this assembled shield that comes with an Ultimate GPS module. This GPS shield works great with either UNO or Leonardo Arduinos and is designed to log data to an SD card. Or you can leave the SD card out and use the GPS for a geocaching project, or maybe a music player that changes tunes depending on where you are in the city. 

-165 dBm sensitivity, 10 Hz updates, 66 channels

Low power module - only 20mA current draw, half of most GPS's

Assembled & tested shield for Arduino Uno/Duemilanove/Diecimila/Leonardo (not for use with Mega/ADK/Due)

MicroSD card slot for datalogging onto a removable card

RTC battery included, for up to 7 years backup

Built-in datalogging to flash

PPS output on fix

Internal patch antenna + u.FL connector for external active antenna

Power, Pin #13 and Fix status LED

Big prototyping area

Each order comes with one assembled and tested shield, a stick of 0.1" male header and a 12mm coin cell. Some light soldering is required to attach the header to the shield in order to plug it into your Arduino. if you want to stack a shield on top, be sure to pick up a set of stacking headers to use instead. MicroSD card not included either, but we do stock them in the shop!If your project is going to be inside an enclosure, you'll love this shield as it has external antenna support. Simply connect an external active GPS antenna via a uFL/SMA cable to the shield and the module will automatically switch over to use the antenna. You can then place the antenna wherever you wish.We think this is the Ultimate GPS shield and we also think you'll agree! For more details, tutorials and example code check out our comprehensive tutorial

Adafruit Ultimate GPS Logger Shield - Includes GPS Module (0:55)

It's 10PM, do you know where your Raspberry Pi is? If you had this GPS HAT, you would! This new HAT from Adafruit adds our celebrated Ultimate GPS on it, so you can add precision time and location to your Raspberry Pi Model Pi 3, Pi Zero, A+, B+, or Pi 2

Here's the low-down on the GPS module:

-165 dBm sensitivity, 10 Hz updates, 66 channels

Only 20mA current draw

Built in Real Time Clock (RTC) - slot in a CR1220 backup battery for 7-years or more of timekeeping even if the Raspberry Pi is off!

PPS output on fix, by default connected to pin #4

Internal patch antenna which works quite well when used outdoors + u.FL connector for external active antenna for when used indoors or in locations without a clear sky view

Fix status LED blinks to let you know when the GPS has determined the current coordinates

We spun up a HAT based on our Ultimate GPS, added a coin-cell holder for RTC usage, break-outs for all the Raspberry Pi's extra pins, and plenty of prototyping area for adding LEDs, sensors, and more.

Please note, this HAT takes over the Raspberry Pi's hardware UART to send/receive data to and from the GPS module. So, if you need to use the RX/TX pins with a console cable, you cannot also use this HAT. Instead, you'll have to use a composite or HDMI monitor and keyboard to log in, or use ssh to connect over the network to your Pi. Read up on our tutorial for more information on how to use this fine HAT

Comes as a fully assembled GPS + PCB and an additional 2x20 GPIO header. Some light soldering is required to attach the 2x20 GPIO header to the HAT but it's fast and easy for anyone with a soldering iron and solder. You can also swap the plain female header we have with a 'stacky' type that lets you plug in a hat or GPIO cable on top or a slim ultra-low-profile header.

To make air-shipping eaiser, this HAT does not come with a 12mm coin battery! A CR1220 will let you use the real-time-clock capability of the GPS HAT, you can pick one up locally or order one from us.

Let your robotic dreams come true with the new DC+Stepper Motor HAT from Adafruit. This Raspberry Pi add-on is perfect for any motion project as it can drive up to 4 DC or 2 Stepper motors with full PWM speed control.

Raspberry Pi and motors are not included. Works with any and all Raspberry Pi computers with 2x20 connection port.Since the Raspberry Pi does not have a lot of PWM pins, we use a fully-dedicated PWM driver chip onboard to both control motor direction and speed. This chip handles all the motor and speed controls over I2C. Only two pins (SDA & SCL) are required to drive the multiple motors, and since it's I2C you can also connect any other I2C devices or HATs to the same pins.

In fact, you can even stack multiple Motor HATs, up to 32 of them, for controlling up to 64 stepper motors or 128 DC motors (or a mix of the two) - just remember to purchase and solder in a stacking header instead of the one we include.

Motors are controlled by TB6612 MOSFET drivers with 1.2A per channel current capability (you can draw up to 3A peak for approx 20ms at a time), a big improvement over L293D drivers and there are built-in flyback diodes as well.

We even had a little space so we added a polarity protection FET on the power pins and a bit of prototyping area. And the HAT is assembled and tested here at Adafruit so all you have to do is solder on the included 2x20 plain header and the terminal blocks.

Lets check out these specs again:

4 H-Bridges: TB6612 chipset provides 1.2A per bridge with thermal shutdown protection, internal kickback protection diodes. Can run motors on 4.5VDC to 13.5VDC.

Up to 4 bi-directional DC motors with individual 8-bit speed selection (so, about 0.5% resolution)

Up to 2 stepper motors (unipolar or bipolar) with single coil, double coil, interleaved or micro-stepping.

Big terminal block connectors to easily hook up wires (18-26AWG) and power

Polarity protected 2-pin terminal block and jumper to connect external 5-12VDC power

Works best with Raspberry Pi model A+, B+, or Pi 2, but can be used with a model A or B if you purchase a 2x13 extra-tall header and solder that instead of the 2x20

Install the easy-to-use Python library, check out the examples and you're ready to go!

Comes with an assembled & tested HAT, terminal blocks, and 2x20 plain header. Some soldering is required to assemble the headers on. Stacking header not included, but we sell them in the shop so if you want to stack HATs, please pick one up at the same time.

Raspberry Pi, motors, and battery pack are not included but we have lots of motors in the shop and all our DC motors, and stepper motors work great. Check out our detailed tutorial for tons of info including schematics, wiring diagrams, python libraries and example walkthroughs.

Note: The terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black.

Design your own Pi HAT, attach custom circuitry and otherwise dress your Raspberry Pi with this jaunty prototyping HAT kit with EEPROM

To kick off the Adafruit HAT party, we have this Perma-Proto inspired plug in daughter board. It has a grid of 0.1" prototyping soldering holes for attaching chips, resistors, LED, potentiometers and more. The holes are connected underneath with traces to mimic the solderless breadboards with which you're familiar. There's also long power strips for +3V, +5V and Ground connections to the Pi. Near the top we break out nearly every pin you could want to connect to the Pi (#26 didn't quite make the cut).

This is the fancier version of our Perma-Proto HAT.  It comes with a printed circuit board and a single 2x20 GPIO Header for Raspberry Pi to put your Perma-Proto on top of your Raspberry Pi (like a nice little hat...) This version comes with a blank 24C32 I2C EEPROM soldered on and connected to the EEDAT/EECLK lines so you cannot 'stack' it with other HATs. However, you can program in the EEPROM to make a self-identifying setup using the Pi Foundations' HAT specs - please note the specifications are still under development.

You can customize your Perma-Proto setup using a standard 2x20 stacking header or extra tall 2x20 stacking header. You can also swap out the 2x20 header with a slim 2x20 type if you want it to sit closer to the Pi, or an extra tall one if you want it to sit above the USB/Ethernet ports.

A bit of light soldering is required to attach the header to the PCB but it's easy work.This hat is only compatible with the Raspberry Pi Zero, A+, B+, 2, 3, etc (any Pi with 2x20 connector)!  It will not work with the Raspberry Pi Model A or B with 2x13 connectors

Design your own Pi HAT, attach custom circuitry and otherwise dress your Pi Zero, A+, B+, Pi 2 or Pi 3 (any Pi with a 2x20 connector) with this jaunty prototyping HAT kit.

To kick off the Adafruit HAT party, we have this Perma-Proto inspired plug in daughter board. It has a grid of 0.1" prototyping soldering holes for attaching chips, resistors, LED, potentiometers and more. The holes are connected underneath with traces to mimic the solderless breadboards with which you're familiar. There's also long power strips for +3V, +5V and Ground connections to the Pi. Near the top we break out nearly every pin you could want to connect to the Pi (#26 didn't quite make the cut).

This is just the basic version of our Perma-Proto HAT.  It comes with a printed circuit board and a single 2x20 GPIO Header for Raspberry Pi to put your Perma-Proto on top of your Raspberry Pi (like a nice little hat...) This version does not come with an EEPROM so you can 'stack' it with other HATs without worrying about an EEPROM address collision.

You can customize your Perma-Proto setup using a standard 2x20 stacking header or extra tall 2x20 stacking header. You can also swap out the 2x20 header with a slim 2x20 type if you want it to sit closer to the Pi, or an extra tall one if you want it to sit above the USB/Ethernet ports.

A bit of light soldering is required to attach the header to the PCB but it's easy work.This hat is only compatible with the Raspberry Pi Zero/A+/B+/2/3 (any Pi with 2x20 connector)! It will not work with the Raspberry Pi Model A or B with 2x13 connector.

Our initial version has the +3V and +5V markings in blue, and the GND markings in red, future orders will have these colors swapped to better match a solderless breadboard

This potentiometer is a two-in-one, good in a breadboard or with a panel. It's a fairly standard linear taper 10K ohm potentiometer, with a grippy shaft. It's smooth and easy to turn, but not so loose that it will shift on its own. We like this one because the legs are 0.2" apart with pin-points, so you can plug it into a breadboard or perfboard. Once you're done prototyping, you can drill a hole into your project box and mount the potentiometer that way.

This 1K potentiometer is a two-in-one, good in a breadboard or with a panel. Its a fairly standard linear taper 1K ohm potentiometer, with a grippy shaft. Its smooth and easy to turn, but not so loose that it will shift on its own. We like this one because the legs are 0.2" apart with pin-points, so you can plug it into a breadboard or perfboard. Once you're done prototyping, you can drill a hole into your project box and mount the potentiometer that way.

A button is a button, and an LED is a LED, but this LED illuminated button is a lovely combination of both! It's a medium sized button, large enough to press easily but not too big that it gets in the way of your project panel. It has a built in LED that can be controlled separately from the switch action - either to indicate or just to look good.The body is a black plastic with the LED built inside. There are two contacts for the button and two contacts for the LED, one marked + and one -. The forward voltage of the LED is about 2.2V so connect a 220 to 1000 ohm resistor in series just as you would with any other LED to your 3V or higher power supply.This particular button has a yellow body and LED and is momentary, normally open. The two switch contacts are not connected normally. When you push the button they will temporarily connect until the button is released. The LED is separated from the button, so you can make it light up when pressed, light up when not pressed, always lit, etc.

16mm Illuminated Pushbuttons (7:54)

A switch is a switch, and an LED is an LED, but this LED illuminated button is a lovely combination of both! It's a medium sized button, large enough to press easily but not too big that it gets in the way of your project panel. It has a built in LED that can be controlled separately from the switch action - either to indicate or just to look good.The body is a black plastic with the LED built inside. There are two contacts for the button and two contacts for the LED, one marked + and one -. The forward voltage of the LED is about 2.2V so connect a 220 to 1000 ohm resistor in series just as you would with any other LED to your 3V or higher power supply.This particular button has a green body and LED and is latching on/off. The two switch contacts are either connected or disconnected. When you push the button they will switch from one to the other, like an on-off switch. The LED is separated from the button, so you can make it light up when on, light up when off, always lit, etc.

16mm Illuminated Pushbuttons (7:54)

Little clicky switches are standard input "buttons" on electronic projects. These work best in a PCB but can be used on a solderless breadboard as shown in this tutorial. The pins are normally open (disconnected) and when the button is pressed they are momentarily closed.These buttons are bigger than the 6mm ones we carry, and come in a pack of 15. Each button comes with a candy-colored round cap that snaps on. You get three of each color-- blue, grey, yellow, green, and red. The round plastic button tops affix easily to the tactile switch body.

Assembled button dimensions: 12mm x 12mm x 12mm

This rotary encoder is the best of the best, its a high quality 24-pulse encoder, with detents and a nice feel. It is panel mountable for placement in a box, or you can plug it into a breadboard (just cut/bend the two mechanical side tabs.) We also include a nice soft-touch knob with an arrow in it, fits perfectly and looks great. This encoder also has a push-button built into it so you can press onto the knob to close a separate switch. One side has a 3 pin connector (ground and two coding pins) and the other side has two pins for a normally-open switch.

Rotary encoders are useful as rotation sensors or selectors and look similar to potentiometers. However they are not like potentiometers at all, so it's important to realize the difference! These rotary encoders rotate all the way around continuously, and are divided up into 24 'segments'. Each segment has a click-y feeling to it, and each movement clockwise or counter-clockwise causes the two switches to open and close. There is no way to know what the current 'position' is - instead you would use a microcontroller to count how many 'clicks' left or right it has been turned. If you need to detect rotational 'position' a potentiometer would be a better choice.

When you need a lot of options, you need a Mini 8-Way Rotary Selector Switch. This is basically a single-pole to 8-throw switch. As you rotate the knob around, the middle pin will make contact with each of the outer pins. Rotary switches are very simple to use and are also nice and compact. This one is easy to panel mount, thanks to the included washer and hex nut. It has a T18-size shaft so you can pick one of our T18 knobs to go with it for easier turning.

Round and round it goes, this nice round "scrubber" knob is the perfect mate to a rotary encoder.  It's got a wide 34.7mm diameter with a nice finger groove on its face so it's easy to turn with just one finger.  It works best with our rotary encoder, just snap it on and away you go.

Please note: this knob won't work with our potentiometers which have T18 spline shafts! While rotary encoders look similar to potentiometers, they're actually very different.  Rotary encoders rotate all the way around continuously, which is why a knob like this is handy, you can twist it around very fast.

Does not come with a rotary encoder

We also sell potentiometers in the Adafruit store and plenty of knobs to match if you're really just a knob fanatic.

This slim and modern potentiometer is small and compact, yet looks good and has a nice feel. We hand selected the best knobs for your project in different sizes and varieties.  This one is the Slim Metal Knob 10mm diameter x 15mm Tall (T18 Splines).

It's a brushed aluminum knob with a shiny black (anodized?) coating.  It kind of looks like the type of knob you'd find in a very fancy, modern kitchen.  There's a silver mark on the black finish so you can know where you are and figure out where you're going.  It's a good knob if you're looking for something basic and subtle and it's super tiny and subdued, we also have a shorter version.

This knob will not work on our Rotary Encoder (which has a D shaft)! It will work, however, on all of our Potentiometers (which have T18 shafts)

Oh say can you see

By the knob's early light...

Sorry - we thought that was clever.  And while it wasn't really, this potentiometer knob definitely is.  It's a 'soft touch' T18 knob that works great with our Panel Mount 10K, Panel Mount 1K, and Panel Mount 100K potentiometers.  The knob is designed to set directly on the potentiometer's ridges so it's an easy & secure fit. It has a nice feel, with a rubbery grip, tweaking it is quite fulfilling

This is the blue version and it has a nice deep color on the inside with a striking blue line on the outside for great visibility with whatever you're making.  We also carry it in white and red if you're looking for a variety of colors.

Oh say can you see

By the knob's early light...

Sorry - we thought that was clever.  And while it wasn't really, this potentiometer knob definitely is.  It's a 'soft touch' T18 knob that works great with our Panel Mount 10K, Panel Mount 1K, and Panel Mount 100K potentiometers.  The knob is designed to set directly on the potentiometer's ridges so it's an easy & secure fit. It has a nice feel, with a rubbery grip, tweaking it is quite fulfilling

This is the Red version and it has a nice deep color on the inside with a striking red line on the outside for great visibility with whatever you're making.  We also carry it in white and blue if you're looking for a variety of colors.

Squeeze once to turn on, squeeze again to turn off! This clicky switch makes a great power switch or mode toggler. We like this switch because it's easy to embed in a seam for easily powering up/off wearable and fabric projects. Can handle up to 14V and 2 Amps! This is a really satisfying switch.

As of May 20th, the dimensions of this switch are:

Length of wires: 190mm / 7.5"

Dimensions of body: 16mm x 15mm x 6mm / 0.6" x 0.6" x 0.2"

Weight: 4.4g

Control your Raspberry Pi 3, 2, A+, B+, or Zero with a flick of the wrist! The Pimoroni Skywriter HAT senses the position of your fingers in the air above.

Using Pimoroni's Python API you can read off the positional data (x, y, z) and common gestures like flick left, tap, and double tap.

Electrical near-field 3D/gesture sensing

4-layer PCB for best sensing performance

Senses from up to 5cm away

Full 3D position data and gesture information (swipes, taps)

Comes fully assembled

Full Python API

This is compatible with the Raspberry Pi Models 3, 2, A+, B+, and Zero!

Because the sensing distance is up to 5cm you can mount the Skywriter HAT behind a sheet of non-conductive material (like acrylic or fabrics) and completely hide it inside your project.

The Explorer HAT Pro is a terrific prototyping side-kick for your Raspberry Pi 2, B+, or A+!

On the Explorer Pro from Pimoroni there are a heap of useful input and output options that will take your projects to the next level. Great for driving motors, using analog sensors, interfacing with 5V systems, and touch interfaces!

Features:

4x buffered 5V tolerant inputsHook up your Pi to accept input from 5V systems (like Arduino Uno/Leonardo or 5V Trinkets). We've used a 5-channel buffer that will accept anything from 2V-5V as logic high.

Hook up your Pi to accept input from 5V systems (like Arduino Uno/Leonardo or 5V Trinkets). We've used a 5-channel buffer that will accept anything from 2V-5V as logic high.

4x powered 5v outputs (up to 500mA!)The onboard darlington array can supply up to 500mA per channel (but you'll be limited to driving around 1A total from the board). Ideal for stepper motors, solenoids, and relays.

The onboard darlington array can supply up to 500mA per channel (but you'll be limited to driving around 1A total from the board). Ideal for stepper motors, solenoids, and relays.

4x capacitive touch pads + 4x capacitive alligator clip padsFour along the front edge for touch input (labelled 1, 2, 3, 4) and four up the side for attaching alligator clips to objects (such as fruit, or tin foil) for experimentation!

Four along the front edge for touch input (labelled 1, 2, 3, 4) and four up the side for attaching alligator clips to objects (such as fruit, or tin foil) for experimentation!

4x colored LEDsIndependently controllable LEDs (red, green, blue, and yellow) that make great status indicators.

Independently controllable LEDs (red, green, blue, and yellow) that make great status indicators.

1x mini breadboard on top

The Explorer HAT *Pro* also has a few additional features:

4x analog inputsA tidy way to integrate analog signals into your project.

A tidy way to integrate analog signals into your project.

2x H-bridge motor driversDrive two 5V motors bidirectionally with up to 200mA per channel. Ideal with our micro-metal gear-motors to create the perfect little buggy! You can even soft-PWM for full speed control.

Drive two 5V motors bidirectionally with up to 200mA per channel. Ideal with our micro-metal gear-motors to create the perfect little buggy! You can even soft-PWM for full speed control.

A heap of useful (unprotected) 3v3 goodies from the GPIO

And head on over to Pimoroni's GitHub to find a Python library, examples, documentation, and a brief introduction to the Explorer HAT!

The Explorer pHAT is the perfect prototyping side-kick for your Raspberry Pi. Based on Pimoroni's popular Explorer Hat Pro, this is a smaller cheaper version designed to fit perfectly on a Raspberry Pi Zero!

A heap of useful input and output options have been added that will take your projects to the next level. Great for driving motors, using analog sensors, and interfacing with 5V sensors & systems

Though designed to match the format of the Raspberry Pi Zero it is compatible with all 40-pin GPIO Raspberry Pi variants (2/B+/A+).

Features:

Python API

Four analog inputs - A tidy way to integrate analog signals into your project.

Two H-bridge motor drivers - Drive two 5V motors bidirectionally with up to 200mA per channel. Ideal with our micro-metal gear-motors to create the perfect little buggy! You can even soft-PWM for full speed control.

Four buffered 5V tolerant inputs - Hook up your Pi to accept input from 5V systems (like Arduino Uno/Leonardo or 5V Trinkets). We've used a 5-channel buffer that will accept anything from 2V-5V as logic high.

Four powered 5V outputs (up to 500mA!) - The onboard darlington array can supply up to 500mA per channel (but you'll be limited to driving around 1A total from the board). Ideal for stepper motors, solenoids, and relays.

Kit includes: Assembled Explorer HAT PCB, one 2x20 0.1" female GPIO header, and one 1x20 0.1" female header. Some light soldering is required to attach the header on, or you can of course solder the pHAT right onto the Pi Zero

Check out Pimonori's full Python library, documentation and examples.

Raspberry Pi not included!

Get visual feedback from your Pi!The PiGlow is a small add on board for the Raspberry Pi that provides 18 individually controllable LEDs. You can use it for all sorts of things! And of course, it fits inside a Pibow!There are tons of things you can do with it:

Mood lighting / ambiance

Showing current system load

Notify you of events like mentions in tweets or incoming e-mail

Feedback the status of scripts/daemons running on your Pi

Works great when VESA mounted to provide a cast against a wall

...and pretty much anything else you can think of!

This board uses the SN3218 8-bit 18-channel PWM chip to drive 18 surface mount LEDs. Communication is done via I2C over the GPIO header with a bus address of 0x54 (Python example code provided). Each LED can be set to a PWM value of between 0 and 255. Comes fully assembled and ready to rock.

18 LEDs (three each of red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white)

Great to provide feedback if you're running your Pi headless

PWM (dimming) control for each channel

Fully assembled (no soldering required)

Python code to access and control lighting provided

Lots of example code for Python, Scratch, WiringPi, etc over at the Pimoroni page

Pimoroni PiGlow (3:55)

Having a discrete, slick, and tidy power supply is always tricky when taking a project on the go...but get ready to roam the earth worry free with the tiny little Pimoroni LiPo Shim! It aims to give you the most compact power supply possible for all versions of Raspberry Pi.

You can either solder the 0.8mm thick PCB directly to the bottom of your GPIO header for a permanent solution or solder on the provided 2x6 0.1" female header which will allow you to remove your LiPo Shim at any time (but will block the GPIO pins).

It uses the TPS61232 Step-Up Boost Converter from Texas Instruments which offers up to 96% efficiency. The board includes power on and battery low indicator LEDs. During shutdown (due to undervoltage or external selection) the quiescent current is just 15uA sip.

Please note: This is not a charger, you will need a separate charger to keep your LiPo/LiIon batteries juiced up! We recommend using our Micro Lipo to top up your battery.

Features:

0.8mm thick PCB

Shaped to sit as low as possible on the Raspberry Pi 3, 2, Zero, A+, B+

2-pole JST connector ideal for most LiPo/LiIon batteries

Power and low battery LED indicators

Supplies up to 1.5A continuous current

Low battery warning at 3.4V (assets GPIO #4 high)

Automatic shutdown at 3.0V to protect your battery

VBAT+, GND, and EN pins available to break out

15uA quiescent current

The Pan-Tilt HAT from Pimoroni lets you mount and control a pan-tilt module right on top of your Raspberry Pi. The HAT and its on-board microcontroller let you independently drive the two servos (pan and tilt), as well as driving up to 24 regular LED (with PWM control) or NeoPixel RGB (or RGBW) LEDs. There's also a handy slot through which you can route the servo, LED, and camera cables. The module pans and tilts through 180 degrees in each axis.

Use Pan-Tilt HAT with a Pi camera for face-tracking, or mount it on top of your roving robot as a set of eyes. Ideal for a mini CCTV system, it will allow you to control the movement of your Pi camera with minimal fuss. Or why not just stick a foam sword on top and make it swashbuckle?!

There's absolutely no soldering required (unless you decide to use a NeoPixel strip or ring with it), as the servos on the pan-tilt module have female jumper wires attached and they've soldered a strip of right-angled header pins to the underside of the HAT to connect them up.

They've also included a handy little acrylic camera mount to hold your camera snugly in the head of the pan-tilt module. The mount has a couple of mounting holes at the top to hold a NeoPixel stick and there's a neat little frosted diffuser to make the light super-dreamy. You can use one of our RGBW NeoPixel sticks for a lovely pure white glow (or any other color!)

Note that the Pi camera, mini pan-tilt kit, NeoPixel strip, and Pi 3 are not included. You'll need to pick them up separately!

Features

Pan-tilt module (180 degrees motion through each axis) with two servos

HAT with two servo channels, one PWM or NeoPixel RGB (or RGBW) LED channel

Right-angled header pre-soldered to underside of HAT for servo and LED channels

Slot to route servo, LED, and camera cables through

Acrylic mount to hold Pi camera and NeoPixel strip (with diffuser) in place

Compatible with Raspberry Pi 3, 2, B+, A+, and Zero

Python library

Comes fully assembled

Snap the Pimoroni Unicorn Hat on top of a Raspberry Pi model A+ or a model B+ for a fun 8x8 RGB LED matrix powered directly from the Pi.

Unicorn HAT provides a wash of controllable color that is ideal for mood-lighting, 8x8 pixel art, persistence of vision effects, status indications, or just blasting colour into your surroundings.

64 RGB LEDs (WS2812B) each wtih 24-bit RGB color

Python API (NeoPixel compatible!)

EEPROM with Raspberry Pi HAT configuration details

LED data driven via DMA over PWM Pin #18

Pulse Sensor Amped is a greatly improved version of the original Pulse Sensor, a plug-and-play heart-rate sensor for Arduino and Arduino compatibles. It can be used by students, artists, athletes, makers, and game & mobile developers who want to easily incorporate live heart-rate data into their projects.Pulse Sensor Amped adds amplification and noise cancellation circuitry to the hardware. It's noticeably faster and easier to get reliable pulse readings. Pulse Sensor Amped works with either a 3V or 5V Arduino.Lastly, the Pulse Sensor creators have also streamlined and improved the Processing visualization software and Arduino code that comes with this hardware.The kit includes:

A 24-inch Color-Coded Cable, with a standard male header connectors. Plug it straight into an Arduino or a Breadboard. No soldering is required.

An Ear Clip, perfectly sized to the sensor. It can be hot-glued or epoxied to the back of the sensor to get reading from an ear lobe.

Parts to make a handy Velcro finger strap. This is another great way to get heart-rate data.

4 Transparent Stickers, to insulate the front of the Pulse Sensor from oily fingers and sweaty earlobes.

The Pulse Sensor has 3 holes around the outside edge which make it easy to sew it into almost anything.

Visualization software (made in Processing) to instantly see output of the sensor and for troubleshooting.

We sure love the ATmega328 here at Adafruit, and we use them a lot for our own projects. The processor has plenty of GPIO, Analog inputs, hardware UART SPI and I2C, timers and PWM galore - just enough for most simple projects. When we need to go small, we use a Pro Trinket 3V or 5V, but when size isn't as much of a concern, and a USB-serial converter is required, we reach for an Adafruit METRO.

METRO is the culmination of years of playing with AVRs: we wanted to make a development board that is easy to use and is hacker friendly.

ATmega328 brains - This popular chip has 32KB of flash (1/2 K is reserved for the bootloader), 2KB of RAM, clocked at 16MHz

Power the METRO with 7-9V polarity protected DC or the micro USB connector to any 5V USB source. The 2.1mm DC jack has an on/off switch next to it so you can turn off your setup easily. The METRO will automagically switch between USB and DC.

METRO has 20 GPIO pins, 6 of which are Analog in as well, and 2 of which are reserved for the USB-serial converter. There's also 6 PWMs available on 3 timers (1 x 16-bit, 2 x 8-bit). There's a hardware SPI port, hardware I2C port and hardware UART to USB.

GPIO Logic level is 5V but by cutting and soldering closed a jumper, you can easily convert it to 3.3V logic

USB to Serial converter, there's a hardware USB to Serial converter that can be used by any computer to listen/send data to the METRO, and can also be used to launch and update code via the bootloader

Four indicator LEDs, on the front edge of the PCB, for easy debugging. One green power LED, two RX/TX LEDs for the UART, and a red LED connected to pin PB5

Easy reprogramming, comes pre-loaded with the Optiboot bootloader, which is supported by avrdude and only uses 512 bytes.

Beautiful styling by PaintYourDragon and Bruce Yan, in Adafruit Black with gold plated pads.

Works with all Adafruit designed shields!

This version of the METRO 328 comes as a fully assembled and tested development board but without any headers attached. We do include some through-hole headers that you can solder on if you like, or you can solder wires or header directly to the breakout pads. We also include 4 rubber bumpers to keep it from slipping off your desk.

Mac & Windows People! Don't forget to grab & install the FTDI VCP drivers from FTDI to make the COM/Serial port show up right! The default drivers may not support this FTDI chip!

If music be the food of love, play on. But make sure you use this super little pHAT DAC to get the best out of your Raspberry Pi audio!

The pHAT DAC provides a super affordable high-quality DAC for the Raspberry Pi. Pumping out 24-bits at 192KHz of audio goodness from the Raspberry Pi's I2S interface on the 2x20 pin GPIO header. Since it's digital audio, it sounds really good, much better than the onboard analog audio. The 3.5mm stereo jack comes soldered onto the board already.

Though designed to match the format of the Raspberry Pi Zero it is compatible with all 40-pin GPIO Raspberry Pi variants (2/B+/A+).

Features:

24-bit audio at 192KHz

Line out stereo jack

pHAT format board

Uses the PCM5102A DAC to work with the Raspberry Pi I2S interface

Kit includes: Assembled pHAT DAC & 2x20 0.1" female GPIO header, some light soldering is required to attach the header on, or you can of course solder the pHAT right onto the Pi Zero

At the heart of pHAT DAC is Texas Instrument's PCM5102A stereo audio DAC chip. Raspberry Pi not included!

Locate your stuff! The Asset Tracker Kit from Particle contains all of the pieces you need to build a GSM + GPS location tracker for your most prized possessions. In addition to a GPS Shield, the Asset Tracker Kit comes with a weatherproof enclosure, so it’ll keep your electronics safe from the dust, dirt, and moisture of the great outdoors. Keep your bicycle, baby, and backpack safe--satellite lock onto this bargain project kit today!

The Asset Tracker Kit comes with a Particle SIM card with service in more than 100 countries worldwide, and includes 3 months of Particle's 1MB monthly data plan for IoT devices. All Electrons also include Particle's development tools, access to a cloud platform with messaging, and a SIM dashboard for managing and updating your new connected hardware.

The Electron is a GSM-only device, and does not support CDMA networks. Some US carriers are planning to sunset their 2G networks beginning in 2017, so the Electron 3G (Americas) is recommended for customers in the US.

This is the 2G Global version. Particle also offers two types of Electron 3G Kits—the aforementioned one for North and South America (850/1900 MHz) and one for Europe/Asia/Africa (900/1800 MHz). Check the full list of compatible countries for the location in which your product will be deployed.

Contents:

Electron

USB Micro B Cable

Particle SIM Card

Cellular Antenna

2000mAh LiPo Battery

Particle Sticker

Resistor 220-Ohm

Breadboard

Photoresistor

Bright LED - White

Basic Data Charges*:

Particle's 1MB monthly data plan: - 3 months included with kit- $2.99/month for 1MB (thousands of messages) - No contracts, cancel anytime

$0.99/each additional MB

3G Global and 3G Americas/Aus versions also available.

*Data rates vary by country and by data usage, see here for full pricing and bulk discounts.

** Continent compatibility is simplified and exceptions exist. Please be sure to check the full list of compatible countries for the location in which your product will be deployed.

The new and improved Programmer Shield is essentially a USB-JTAG converter that gives advanced users complete access to the Photon's memory space. It supports openOCD and the WICED SDK, and is built around the FT2232H high speed USB FIFO.

Unlike the previous Programmer Shield, it is fully standalone and requires no third-party programmers.

In addition to providing a JTAG interface, this shield can also act as a USB to Serial converter. You can also use this shield as a generic JTAG programmer for your other projects!

Designed for use with the Photon, backwards compatible with the Core.

The Particle Power Shield is the best way to—you guessed it—provide power to your mobile Particle projects. Based around the MCP73871 battery management controller, this shield allows you to simultaneously power a Photon and charge a connected Li-Ion or Li-Po battery. You'll also be able to monitor battery levels using the Photon itself, which makes the Power Shield the best way to untether your wireless project.

Besides the on-board USB port, you can also use an external DC power supply or solar-cell to charge the battery.

This shield ships with a 3.7V, 2000mAh Li-Po battery and headers. Plug & Play - No soldering required!

Designed for use with the Photon, backwards compatible with the Core.

So you have a Teensy and a RGB LED Matrix Panel and you want an easy way to add graphics to your matrix without having to toss aside your Teensy or do too much soldering. Enter the SmartMatrix SmartLED Shield (V4) for Teensy 3.2, 3.5, or 3.6 (not the Teensy LC)!

The SmartLED Shield gives you an easy way to connect up a Teensy 3.2, Teensy 3.5, or Teensy 3.6 to one of our RGB LED Matrix Panels. The example sketches included with the SmartMatrix Library will get you started quickly displaying graphics, patterns, or even animated GIFs from a microSD card on your panel.

Features

Shield is fully assembled, no soldering required (besides adding pins to the Teensy)

HUB75 pinout, connects to panel directly or using panel's ribbon cable

5V level shifters for better compatibility with 5V panels

Support for driving Dotstar/APA102 LEDs in parallel with the LED panel, connects directly to 4-pin JST SM cable on Dotstar LEDs, or use the included cable

Expansion rows for main Teensy pins, making signals available for prototyping

Teensy is easily removed from the shield

Note: compared to previous versions of the SmartMatrix Shield, the microSD card slot was removed, as it is redundant when combined with the Teensy 3.5/3.6

The shield brings the 13 I/O signals needed to drive the panel out to a connector that matches the pinout on the panel, and brings the rest of the I/O signals out to convenient expansion headers.  The board includes pre-soldered 5V level shifters.

It's a great board for easily expanding your Teensy's capabilities. You'll also need to program in your Teensy with the SmartMatrix code available on the project website.

Add some jazz & pizzazz to your project with a color touchscreen LCD. This TFT display is 2.4" diagonal with a bright (4 white-LED) backlight and it's colorful! 240x320 pixels with individual RGB pixel control, this has way more resolution than a black and white 128x64 display.

As a bonus, this display has a resistive touchscreen attached to it already, so you can detect finger presses anywhere on the screen.

If you need a larger touchscreen, check out the 2.8" diagonal or 3.5" diagonal TFT breakouts. For a smaller display, see our non-touch 2.2" or 1.8" or 1.44" diagonal TFTs

This display has a controller built into it with RAM buffering, so that almost no work is done by the microcontroller. The display can be used in two modes: 8-bit or SPI. For 8-bit mode, you'll need 8 digital data lines and 4 or 5 digital control lines to read and write to the display (12 lines total). SPI mode requires only 5 pins total (SPI data in, data out, clock, select, and d/c) but is slower than 8-bit mode.

In addition, 4 pins are required for the touch screen (2 digital, 2 analog) or you can purchase and use our resistive touchscreen controller (not included) to use I2C or SPI.

Of course, we wouldn't just leave you with a datasheet and a "good luck!". For 8-bit interface fans we've written a full open source graphics library that can draw pixels, lines, rectangles, circles, text, and more. For SPI users, we have a library as well, its separate from the 8-bit library since both versions are heavily optimized. For resistive touch, we also have a touch screen library that detects x, y and z (pressure) and example code to demonstrate all of it. Check out our tutorial for wiring diagrams, schematics, and a walkthough on this display.

Give your project a voice! Designed by Parallax in conjunction with Grand Idea Studio, the Emic 2 Text-to-Speech Module is a multi-language voice synthesizer that converts a stream of digital text into natural sounding speech. Its simple command-based interface makes it easy to integrate into any embedded system. It is by far the best sounding, easiest-to-use TTS module we've ever seen!

Key Features:

High-quality speech synthesis for English and Spanish languages

Nine pre-defined voice styles comprising male, female, and child

Dynamic control of speech and voice characteristics, including pitch, speaking rate, and word emphasis

Industry-standard DECtalk text-to-speech synthesizer engine (5.0.E1)

Application Ideas:

Reading Internet-based data streams (such as e-mails or Twitter feeds)

Conveying status or sensor results from robots, scientific equipment, or industrial machinery

Language learning or speech aids for educational environments

Example Sounds:

Audio Sample – English (.wav)

Audio Sample – Spanish (.wav)

Audio Sample – Singing “Daisy Bell” (.wav)

This video by Hack-a-Week TV shows a great example of it working with an Arduino. Creator Joe Grand also has A bunch of youtube video showing off the advanced feature-set!

Make a scrolling sign, or a small video display with this 8x8 gridded bi-color LED matrix. Only 1.2" on a side, it is quite visible but not so large it wont plug into a breadboard! 128 LEDs are contained in the plastic body, 64 red 320mcd and 64 green, in an 8x8 matrix. Every grid has two LEDs inside so you can have it display red, green, yellow or with fast multiplexing any color in between. This display is bright, beautiful and funky with nice diffused square lenses for a striking look. There are 24 pins on the side, 12 on each, with 0.1" spacing so you can easily plug it into a breadboard with one row on each side for wiring it up.

Since the display is in a grid, you'll need to 1:8 multiplex control it. We suggest either using two 74HC595s and TPIC6B595 (using the 74HC' to control the 16 anodes at once and then using the TPIC' to drive one cathode at a time) or using two MAX7219 which will do the multiplexing work for you.

The Arduino playground has a nice set of tutorials introducing the MAX7219 and 8x8 LED matrices

What's better than a single LED? Lots of LEDs! A fun way to make a small colorful display is to use a 1.2" Bi-color 8x8 LED Matrix. Matrices like these are 'multiplexed' - so to control all the 128 LEDs you need 24 pins. That's a lot of pins, and there are driver chips like the MAX7219 that can help control a matrix for you but there's a lot of wiring to set up and they take up a ton of space. Here at Adafruit we feel your pain! After all, wouldn't it be awesome if you could control a matrix without tons of wiring? That's where these adorable LED matrix backpacks come in. We have them in three flavors - a mini 8x8, 1.2" Bi-color 8x8 and a 4-digit 0.56" 7-segment. They work perfectly with the matrices we stock in the Adafruit shop and make adding a bright little display trivial. It's called a Bicolor LED, but you can have 3 colors total by turning on the red and green LEDs, which creates yellow-orange. That's 3 colors for the price of 2!The matrices use a driver chip that does all the heavy lifting for you: They have a built in clock so they multiplex the display. They use constant-current drivers for ultra-bright, consistent color, 1/16 step display dimming, all via a simple I2C interface. The backpacks come with address-selection jumpers so you can connect up to four mini 8x8's or eight 7-segments/bicolor (or a combination, such as four mini 8x8's and two 7-segments and two bicolor, etc) on a single I2C bus.The product kit comes with:

A fully tested and assembled LED backpack

1.2" Bi-color 8x8 LED Matrix

4-pin header

A bit of soldering is required to attach the matrix onto the backpack but its very easy to do and only takes about 5 minutes.Of course, in classic Adafruit fashion, we also have a detailed tutorial showing you how to solder, wire and control the display. We even wrote a very nice library for the backpacks so you can get running in under half an hour, displaying images on the matrix or numbers on the 7-segment. If you've been eyeing matrix displays but hesitated because of the complexity, his is the solution you've been looking for!

Design a clock, timer or counter into your next project using our pretty 4-digit seven-segment display. These bright crisp displays are good for adding numeric output. Besides the four 7-segments, there are decimal points on each digit and an extra wire for colon-dots in the center (good for time-based projects).These are 18mcd bright. You can drive these with less current to get the same brightness to save power, or crank them up to 20mA and have them at their brightest.These displays are multiplexed, common-cathode. What that means it that you can use a 74HC595 or just 8 microcontroller pins if you can spare them to control the 8 anodes (7-seg + decimal) at about ~15mA each, and then connect NPN transistors or a TPIC6B595 to the cathodes to sink the 8*15mA = ~160mA maximum per digit.

We strongly recommend getting our backpack version, which comes with an LED driver on the back. This version is just the raw display, and requires a lot more work to get running!These come in a bright red color, we also have many other sizes and colors!

Design a clock, timer or counter into your next project using our pretty 4-digit seven-segment display. These bright crisp displays are good for adding numeric output. Besides the four 7-segments, there are decimal points on each digit and an extra wire for colon-dots in the center (good for time-based projects).These are 15mcd bright. You can drive these with less current to get the same brightness to save power, or crank them up to 20mA and have them at their brightest.These displays are multiplexed, common-cathode. What that means it that you can use a 74HC595 or just 8 microcontroller pins if you can spare them to control the 8 anodes (7-seg + decimal) at about ~15mA each, and then connect NPN transistors or a TPIC6B595 to the cathodes to sink the 8*15mA = ~120mA maximum per digit.

We strongly recommend getting our backpack version, which comes with an LED driver on the back. This version is just the raw display, and requires a lot more work to get running!

These come in a bright blue color, we also have many other sizes and colors!

Design a clock, timer or counter into your next project using our pretty 4-digit seven-segment display. These bright crisp displays are good for adding numeric output. Besides the four 7-segments, there are decimal points on each digit and an extra wire for colon-dots in the center (good for time-based projects).These are 30mcd bright. You can drive these with less current to get the same brightness to save power, or crank them up to 20mA and have them at their brightest.These displays are multiplexed, common-cathode. What that means it that you can use a 74HC595 or just 8 microcontroller pins if you can spare them to control the 8 anodes (7-seg + decimal) at about ~15mA each, and then connect NPN transistors or a TPIC6B595 to the cathodes to sink the 8*15mA = ~120mA maximum per digit.

We strongly recommend getting our backpack version, which comes with an LED driver on the back. This version is just the raw display, and requires a lot more work to get running!

These come in a bright white color, we also have many other sizes and colors!

Round and round and round they go! 16 ultra bright smart LED NeoPixels are arranged in a circle with 1.75" (44.5mm) outer diameter. The rings are 'chainable' - connect the output pin of one to the input pin of another. Use only one microcontroller pin to control as many as you can chain together! Each LED is addressable as the driver chip is inside the LED. Each one has ~18mA constant current drive so the color will be very consistent even if the voltage varies, and no external choke resistors are required making the design slim. Power the whole thing with 5VDC (4-7V works) and you're ready to rock.There is a single data line with a very timing-specific protocol. Since the protocol is very sensitive to timing, it requires a real-time microconroller such as an AVR, Arduino, PIC, mbed, etc. It cannot be used with a Linux-based microcomputer or interpreted microcontroller such as the netduino or Basic Stamp. Our wonderfully-written Neopixel library for Arduino supports these pixels! As it requires hand-tuned assembly it is only for AVR cores but others may have ported this chip driver code so please google around. An 8MHz or faster processor is required.Comes as a single ring with 16 individually addressable RGB LEDs assembled and tested.

Make your own little LED strip arrangement with this stick of NeoPixel LEDs. We crammed 8 of the tiny 5050 (5mm x 5mm) smart RGB LEDs onto a PCB with mounting holes and a chainable design. Use only one microcontroller pin to control as many as you can chain together! Each LED is addressable as the driver chip is inside the LED. Each one has ~18mA constant current drive so the color will be very consistent even if the voltage varies, and no external choke resistors are required making the design slim. Power the whole thing with 5VDC (4-7V works) and you're ready to rock.The LEDs are 'chainable' by connecting the output of one stick into the input of another - see the photo above. There is a single data line with a very timing-specific protocol. Since the protocol is very sensitive to timing, it requires a real-time microconroller such as an AVR, Arduino, PIC, mbed, etc. It cannot be used with a Linux-based microcomputer or interpreted microcontroller such as the netduino or Basic Stamp. Our wonderfully-written Neopixel library for Arduino supports these pixels! As it requires hand-tuned assembly it is only for AVR cores but others may have ported this chip driver code so please google around. An 8MHz or faster processor is required.Comes as a single stick with 8 individually addressable RGB LEDs assembled and tested.Our detailed NeoPixel Uberguide has everything you need to use NeoPixels in any shape and size. Including ready-to-go library & example code for the Arduino UNO/Duemilanove/Diecimila, Flora/Micro/Leonardo, Trinket/Gemma, Arduino Due & Arduino Mega/ADK (all versions)

NeoPixel Stick - 8 x 5050 RGB LED with Integrated Drivers (6:15)

Make your own smart LED arrangement with the same integrated LED that is used in our NeoPixel strip and pixels. This tiny 5050 (5mm x 5mm) RGB LED is fairly easy to solder and is the most compact way possible to integrate multiple bright LEDs to a design. The driver chip is inside the LED and has ~18mA constant current drive so the color will be very consistent even if the voltage varies, and no external choke resistors are required making your design minimal. Power the whole thing with 5VDC and you're ready to rock.This is the 4 pin LED chip version, not 6. It is code compatible and the same over-all shape and functionality but not the same pinout so you cannot use these to replace an 'S chip. If you are designing a new PCB we suggest going with the B, since it has built in polarity protection. Other than that, B and S are the same brightness, and use the exact same code interface.The LEDs are 'chainable' by connecting the output of one chip into the input of another - see the datasheet for diagrams and pinouts. To allow the entire chip to be integrated into a 6-pin package, there is a single data line with a very timing-specific protocol. Since the protocol is very sensitive to timing, it requires a real-time microconroller such as an AVR, Arduino, PIC, mbed, etc. It cannot be used with a Linux-based microcomputer or interpreted microcontroller such as the netduino or Basic Stamp. The LEDs basically have a WS2811 inside, but fixed at the 800KHz 'high speed' setting. Our wonderfully-written Neopixel library for Arduino supports these pixels! As it requires hand-tuned assembly it is only for AVR cores but others may have ported this chip driver code so please google around. An 8MHz or faster processor is required.

These raw LEDs are cut from a reel and/or might be loose. They may not suitable for pick & place + reflow. We recommend these for careful hand soldering only! Comes in a package with 100 individual LEDs. We have a ready-to-go component for this in the Adafruit EAGLE library

For those of us who are maybe a little tired of rainbows, we now have 'smart LEDs' in monochrome! Make your own smart Cool White LED arrangement with the same integrated LED dr that is used in our new fancy DotStar strips.  Unlit, the color resembles a yellow Starburst. Lit up these are insanely bright (like ow my eye hurts) and can be controlled with 24 bit high-frequency PWM. The phosphor helps diffuse the 3 white dies inside together for a very bright but consistant light, compared to what you get by trying to mix RGB to make white (which never quite looks right)

This tiny 5050 (5mm x 5mm) SMD LED is fairly easy to solder and is the most compact way possible to integrate multiple bright LEDs to a design. If you want to prototype with these, we recommend our 5050-size LED breakout PCBs, solder them on for a breadboard-friendly package

They're also a great upgrade for people who have loved and used NeoPixels for a few years but want to use the same kind of technology for monochromatic lighting. DotStar LEDs use generic 2-wire SPI, so you can push data much faster than with the NeoPixel 800 KHz protocol and there's no specific timing required. They also have much higher PWM refresh rates, so you can do Persistence-of-Vision (POV) and have less flickering, particularly at low brightness levels.

Like NeoPixels, DotStar LEDs are 5050-sized LEDs with an embedded microcontroller inside the LED. You can set the brightness of each of 3 individual cool white dies epoxied into the case. Each LED acts like a shift register, reading incoming data on the input pins, and then shifting the previous data out on the output pin. By sending a long string of data, you can control an infinite number of LEDs, just tack on more or disconnect unwanted LEDs at the end. The PWM is built into each LED-chip so once you set the brightness you can stop talking to the strip and it will continue to PWM all the LEDs for you.

Another nice thing about DotStars is their high PWM rate. You only have to set the brightness data for each pixel LED once, and then the LED+built-in-chip will handle the PWMing. On NeoPixels, this PWM rate happens 400 Hz, which works well but is noticably at lower brightnesses and if the strip is moving in any way.  DotStars have a 20 KHz PWM rate, so even when moving the LED around, you won't see the pixelation, the blending is very smooth.

Comes in a package with 10 individual LEDs.

We have a tutorial showing wiring, power usage calculations, example code for usage, etc. for DotStars Please check it out! Please note that the tutorial and code talk about RGB, but of course, this LED is just WWW, three individual white LEDs instead.

For those of us who are maybe a little tired of rainbows, we now have 'smart LEDs' in monochrome! Make your own smart Cool White LED arrangement with the same integrated LED driver that is used in our NeoPixel LED strips.  Unlit, the color resembles a yellow Starburst. Lit up these are insanely bright (like ow my eye hurts) and can be controlled with 24 bit high-frequency PWM. The phosphor helps diffuse the 3 white dies inside together for a very bright but consistant light, compared to what you get by trying to mix RGB to make white (which never quite looks right)

This tiny 5050 (5mm x 5mm) SMD LED is fairly easy to solder and is the most compact way possible to integrate multiple bright LEDs to a design. If you want to prototype with these, we recommend our 5050-size LED breakout PCBs, solder them on for a breadboard-friendly package

NeoPixel LEDs use 800 KHz protocol so specific timing is required. On NeoPixels, the PWM rate is 400 Hz, which works well but is noticable if the LED is moving. In comparison, DotStars have a 20 KHz PWM rate, so even when moving the LED around, you won't see the pixelation, the blending is very smooth. (we recommend DotStars if you can use them!)

NeoPixels are 5050-sized LEDs with an embedded microcontroller inside the LED. You can set the brightness of each of 3 individual cool white dies epoxied into the case. Each LED acts like a shift register, reading incoming data on the input pins, and then shifting the previous data out on the output pin. By sending a long string of data, you can control an infinite number of LEDs, just tack on more or disconnect unwanted LEDs at the end. The PWM is built into each LED-chip so once you set the brightness you can stop talking to the strip and it will continue to PWM all the LEDs for you.

Comes in a package with 10 individual LEDs.

We have a tutorial showing wiring, power usage calculations, example code for usage, etc. for NeoPixel Please check it out! Please note that the tutorial and code talk about RGB, but of course, this LED is just WWW, three individual white LEDs instead.

For those of us who are maybe a little tired of rainbows, we now have 'smart LEDs' in monochrome! Make your own smart Warm White LED arrangement with the same integrated LED driver that is used in our new fancy DotStar strips.  Unlit, the color resembles an egg yolk. Lit up these are insanely bright (like ow my eye hurts) and can be controlled with 24 bit high-frequency PWM. The phosphor helps diffuse the 3 white dies inside together for a very bright but consistant light, compared to what you get by trying to mix RGB to make white (which never quite looks right)

This tiny 5050 (5mm x 5mm) SMD LED is fairly easy to solder and is the most compact way possible to integrate multiple bright LEDs to a design. If you want to prototype with these, we recommend our 5050-size LED breakout PCBs, solder them on for a breadboard-friendly package

They're also a great upgrade for people who have loved and used NeoPixels for a few years but want to use the same kind of technology for monochromatic lighting. DotStar LEDs use generic 2-wire SPI, so you can push data much faster than with the NeoPixel 800 KHz protocol and there's no specific timing required. They also have much higher PWM refresh rates, so you can do Persistence-of-Vision (POV) and have less flickering, particularly at low brightness levels.

Like NeoPixels, DotStar LEDs are 5050-sized LEDs with an embedded microcontroller inside the LED. You can set the brightness of each of 3 individual cool white dies epoxied into the case. Each LED acts like a shift register, reading incoming data on the input pins, and then shifting the previous data out on the output pin. By sending a long string of data, you can control an infinite number of LEDs, just tack on more or disconnect unwanted LEDs at the end. The PWM is built into each LED-chip so once you set the brightness you can stop talking to the strip and it will continue to PWM all the LEDs for you.

Another nice thing about DotStars is their high PWM rate. You only have to set the brightness data for each pixel LED once, and then the LED+built-in-chip will handle the PWMing. On NeoPixels, this PWM rate happens 400 Hz, which works well but is noticably at lower brightnesses and if the strip is moving in any way.  DotStars have a 20 KHz PWM rate, so even when moving the LED around, you won't see the pixelation, the blending is very smooth.

Comes in a package with 10 individual LEDs.

We have a tutorial showing wiring, power usage calculations, example code for usage, etc. for DotStars Please check it out! Please note that the tutorial and code talk about RGB, but of course, this LED is just WWW, three individual white LEDs instead.

With a slip ring assembly, your electronics can now twist and turn safely. Add wheel encoders, 360 degree sensors, rotating LEDs, rotors and more! We've seen a lot of people DIY slip ring's out of desperation but no longer, simply pick up one of these to solve any rotation needs you have.Inside the miniature plastic tube is a gold plated slip ring for 12 wires. There are twelve color coded wire sets made of 28 AWG and no matter how you twist the assembly, they will remain in continuity. Each of the wire sets can carry up to 2A at up to 240VAC or 240VDC. This model is the tiniest slip ring you can get, a mere 20mm long, 12mm diameter. Rated to rotate up to 300 RPM (but you can probably go faster if you don't mind a reduced life and/or noise).

12-wire slip rings (3:42)

By popular demand, we now have these buttons with a full color RGB LED ring light! These chrome-plated metal buttons are rugged, but certainly not lacking in flair. Simply drill a 16mm hole into any material up to 1/4" thick and you can fit these in place – there's even a rubber gasket to keep water out of the enclosure. On the front of the button is a flat metal actuator, surrounded by a plastic RGB LED ring. On the back there are two gold contacts for the button and 4 for the RGB LED ring (one anode and 3 cathodes for each red, green, and blue). Power the anode at 3-6V and light up the red, green, and blue LEDs by pulling their designated contacts to ground as you desire – there's a built in resistor! If you want to use this with a higher voltage, say 12V or 24V, simply add a 1K ohm resistor in series with the LED cathodes to keep the LED current at around 20mA. You can PWM the RGB pins to make any color you like.This button is a momentary push button, when you press it the 'normally-open' contact shorts to the common contact. When you release it, the contacts open up again.The switch and LED are electrically separated, so to change the color, use a microcontroller to both read the contact pins and toggle the color control pins.

These chrome-plated metal buttons are rugged and look real good while doing it! Simply drill a 16mm hole into any material up to 1/2" thick and you can fit these in place, there's even a rubber gasket to keep water out of the enclosure. On the front of the button is a flat metal actuator, surrounded by a white plastic LED ring. On the back there are 3 contacts for the button (common, normally-open and normally-closed) and 2 for the white LED ring (+ and -). Connect 3 to 6V to the LED to have it light up nicely, there's a built in resistor! If you want to use this with a higher voltage, say 12V or 24V, simply add a 470 ohm resistor in series with the LED connection to keep the LED current at around 20mA.This button is an on/off switch button, when you press it the 'normally-open' contact shorts to the common contact and the button stays 'pressed'. When you press it a second time, the button springs open, and the contacts open up again.The switch and LED are separated, so you could wire it to turn on when pressed or vice versa or whatever you wish! Check the tech details for information!

These chrome-plated metal buttons are rugged and look real good while doing it! Simply drill a 16mm hole into any material up to 1/2" thick and you can fit these in place, there's even a rubber gasket to keep water out of the enclosure. On the front of the button is a flat metal actuator, surrounded by a red plastic LED ring. On the back there are 3 contacts for the button (common, normally-open and normally-closed) and 2 for the red LED ring (+ and -). Connect 3 to 6V to the LED to have it light up nicely, there's a built in resistor! If you want to use this with a higher voltage, say 12V or 24V, simply add a 470 ohm resistor in series with the LED connection to keep the LED current at around 20mA.This button is a momentary push button, when you press it the 'normally-open' contact shorts to the common contact. When you release it, the contacts open up again.The switch and LED are separated, so you could wire it to turn on when pressed or vice versa or whatever you wish! Check the tech details for information!

These chrome-plated metal buttons are rugged and look real good while doing it! Simply drill a 16mm hole into any material up to 1/2" thick and you can fit these in place, there's even a rubber gasket to keep water out of the enclosure. On the front of the button is a flat metal actuator, surrounded by a blue plastic LED ring. On the back there are 3 contacts for the button (common, normally-open and normally-closed) and 2 for the blue LED ring (+ and -). Connect 3 to 6V to the LED to have it light up nicely, there's a built in resistor! If you want to use this with a higher voltage, say 12V or 24V, simply add a 470 ohm resistor in series with the LED connection to keep the LED current at around 20mA.This button is an on/off switch button, when you press it the 'normally-open' contact shorts to the common contact and the button stays 'pressed'. When you press it a second time, the button springs open, and the contacts open up again.The switch and LED are separated, so you could wire it to turn on when pressed or vice versa or whatever you wish! Check the tech details for information!

These chrome-plated metal buttons are rugged and look real good while doing it! Simply drill a 16mm hole into any material up to 1/2" thick and you can fit these in place, there's even a rubber gasket to keep water out of the enclosure. On the front of the button is a flat metal actuator, surrounded by a red plastic LED ring. On the back there are 3 contacts for the button (common, normally-open and normally-closed) and 2 for the red LED ring (+ and -). Connect 3 to 6V to the LED to have it light up nicely, there's a built in resistor! If you want to use this with a higher voltage, say 12V or 24V, simply add a 470 ohm resistor in series with the LED connection to keep the LED current at around 20mA.This button is an on/off switch button, when you press it the 'normally-open' contact shorts to the common contact and the button stays 'pressed'. When you press it a second time, the button springs open, and the contacts open up again.The switch and LED are separated, so you could wire it to turn on when pressed or vice versa or whatever you wish! Check the tech details for information!

A button is a button, and an LED is a LED, but this LED illuminated button is a lovely combination of both! It's a medium sized button, large enough to press easily but not too big that it gets in the way of your project panel. It has a built in LED that can be controlled separately from the switch action - either to indicate or just to look good.The body is a black plastic with the LED built inside. There are two contacts for the button and two contacts for the LED, one marked + and one -. The forward voltage of the LED is about 2.2V so connect a 220 to 1000 ohm resistor in series just as you would with any other LED to your 3V or higher power supply.This particular button has a red body and LED and is momentary, normally open. The two switch contacts are not connected normally. When you push the button they will temporarily connect until the button is released. The LED is separated from the button, so you can make it light up when pressed, light up when not pressed, always lit, etc.

16mm Illuminated Pushbuttons (7:54)

A button is a button, and a switch is a switch, but these translucent arcade buttons are in a class of their own. They're the same size as common arcade controls (often referred to as 30mm diameter) but have some nice things going for them that justify the extra dollar.First, they look fantastic, all 6 colors have a crystal translucent glossy look. Although they do not have LEDs built in, we're confident that sticking a diffused LED into the body would make it light up very nicely. They are also shorter than cheap arcade controls, and snap into place, so you only need 1.5" of depth (1.25" if you bend the contacts over). The button action is smooth, without a strong click, yet you can definitely feel when the button is pressed. A tiny micro-switch is pre-installed, with gold plated contacts.

A button is a button, and a switch is a switch, but this LED illuminated arcade buttons is in a class of its own. It's similar in size to an arcade button (and will fit in holes drilled for 'standard' 30mm buttons) but has a built in LED that can be controlled separately from the switch action - either to indicate or just to look good.The body is a black plastic, and a lamp holder fits inside. These were originally designed for 'incandescent' lamps but is easy to use with an LED, just wrap the legs around the holder as shown. It comes with a clear blue LED but honestly, we suggest finding a diffused LED to use instead, with a wide illumination since this clear one doesn't fill the square as nicely as it could. (The button factory didn't have diffused LEDs available). You can even disassemble the button itself and slip an image under the clear cover for backlighting.The button comes with a normally-open micro-switch. Once you have put in the LED you like, just snap in the micro-switch. You can always remove it later to change out the LED color. The micro-switch is fairly clicky, so you will hear and feel it when it actuates.

A button is a button, and a switch is a switch, but these translucent arcade buttons are in a class of their own. They're the same size as common arcade controls (often referred to as 30mm diameter) but have some nice things going for them that justify the extra dollar.First, they look fantastic, all 6 colors have a crystal translucent glossy look. Although they do not have LEDs built in, we're confident that sticking a diffused LED into the body would make it light up very nicely. They are also shorter than cheap arcade controls, and snap into place, so you only need 1.5" of depth (1.25" if you bend the contacts over). The button action is smooth, without a strong click, yet you can definitely feel when the button is pressed. A tiny micro-switch is pre-installed, with gold plated contacts.

A button is a button, and a switch is a switch, but these translucent arcade buttons are in a class of their own. They're the same size as common arcade controls (often referred to as 30mm diameter) but have some nice things going for them that justify the extra dollar.First, they look fantastic, all 6 colors have a crystal translucent glossy look. Although they do not have LEDs built in, we're confident that sticking a diffused LED into the body would make it light up very nicely. They are also shorter than cheap arcade controls, and snap into place, so you only need 1.5" of depth (1.25" if you bend the contacts over). The button action is smooth, without a strong click, yet you can definitely feel when the button is pressed. A tiny micro-switch is pre-installed, with gold plated contacts.

A button is a button, and a switch is a switch, but these translucent arcade buttons are in a class of their own. They're the same size as common arcade controls (often referred to as 30mm diameter) but have some nice things going for them that justify the extra dollar.First, they look fantastic, all 6 colors have a crystal translucent glossy look. Although they do not have LEDs built in, we're confident that sticking a diffused LED into the body would make it light up very nicely. They are also shorter than cheap arcade controls, and snap into place, so you only need 1.5" of depth (1.25" if you bend the contacts over). The button action is smooth, without a strong click, yet you can definitely feel when the button is pressed. A tiny micro-switch is pre-installed, with gold plated contacts.

This sensor can detect flexing or bending in one direction. They were popularized by being used in the Nintendo PowerGlove as a gaming interface.These sensors are easy to use, they are basically resistors that change value based on how much they're flexed. If they're unflexed, the resistance is about ~10KΩ. When flexed all the way the resistance rises to ~20KΩ. They're pretty similar to FSRs so following this tutorial will get you started. You can use an analog input on a microcontroller (with a pullup resistor) or a digital input with the use of a 0.1uF capacitor for RC timing.The bottom part of the sensor (where the pins are crimped on) is very delicate so make sure to have strain relief - such as clamping or gluing that part so as not to rip out the contacts!

This sensor can detect flexing or bending in one direction. They were popularized by being used in the Nintendo PowerGlove as a gaming interface.These sensors are easy to use, they are basically resistors that change value based on how much their flexed. If they're unflexed, the resistance is about ~25KΩ. When flexed all the way the resistance rises to ~100KΩ. They're pretty similar to FSRs so following this tutorial will get you started. You can use an analog input on a micro-controller (with a pullup resistor) or a digital input with the use of a 0.1uF capacitor for RC timing.The bottom part of the sensor (where the pins are crimped on) is very delicate so make sure to have strain relief - such as clamping or gluing that part so as not to rip out the contacts!

The AM2302 is a wired version of the DHT22, in a large plastic body. It is a basic, low-cost digital temperature and humidity sensor. It uses a capacitive humidity sensor and a thermistor to measure the surrounding air, and spits out a digital signal on the data pin (no analog input pins needed). Its fairly simple to use, but requires careful timing to grab data. The only real downside of this sensor is you can only get new data from it once every 2 seconds, so when using our library, sensor readings can be up to 2 seconds old.Simply connect the red 3-5V power, the yellow wire to your data input pin and the black wire to ground. Although it uses a single-wire to send data it is not Dallas One Wire compatible! If you want multiple sensors, each one must have its own data pin.

We have a Adafruit Learning System guide with schematics, Arduino & CircuitPython code, datasheets and more!Compared to the DHT11, this sensor is more precise, more accurate and works in a bigger range of temperature/humidity, but its larger and more expensiveThere is a 5.1K resistor inside the sensor connecting VCC and DATA so you do not need any additional pullup resistors

If you'd like a compact display, with buttons and a joystick - we've got what you're looking for. The Adafruit 128x64 OLED Bonnet for Raspberry Pi is the big sister to our mini PiOLED add-on. This version has 128x64 pixels (instead of 128x32) and a much larger screen besides. With the OLED display in the center, we had some space on either side so we added a 5-way joystick and two pushbuttons. Great for when you want to have a control interface for your project.

These displays are small, only about 1.3" diagonal, but very readable due to the high contrast of an OLED display. This screen is made of 128x64 individual white OLED pixels and because the display makes its own light, no backlight is required. This reduces the power required to run the OLED and is why the display has such high contrast; we really like this miniature display for its crispness!

Please note that this display is too small to act as a primary display for the Pi (e.g. it can't act like or display what would normally be on the HDMI screen). Instead, we recommend using pygame for drawing or writing text.

Using the display and controls in python is very easy, we have a library ready-to-go for the SSD1306 OLED chipset and the joystick/buttons are connected to GPIO pins on the Pi. Our example code allows you to draw images, text, whatever you like, using the Python imaging library. We also have example code for using the joystick/buttons/OLED together. Our tests showed 15 FPS update rates so you can do animations or simple video.

Comes completely pre-assembled and tested so you don't need to do anything but plug it in and install our Python code! Works with any Raspberry Pi computer, including the original Pi 1, B+, Pi 2, Pi 3 and Pi Zero.

Instructions, software, downloads and more in the Learning Guide!

Add some jazz & pizazz to your project with a color touchscreen LCD. This TFT display is big (2.8" diagonal) bright (4 white-LED backlight) and colorful! 240x320 pixels with individual RGB pixel control, this has way more resolution than a black and white 128x64 display. As a bonus, this display has a resistive touchscreen attached to it already, so you can detect finger presses anywhere on the screen. We also have a version of this display breakout with a capacitive touchscreen.

This display has a controller built into it with RAM buffering, so that almost no work is done by the microcontroller. The display can be used in two modes: 8-bit and SPI. For 8-bit mode, you'll need 8 digital data lines and 4 or 5 digital control lines to read and write to the display (12 lines total). SPI mode requires only 5 pins total (SPI data in, data out, clock, select, and d/c) but is slower than 8-bit mode. In addition, 4 pins are required for the touch screen (2 digital, 2 analog) or you can purchase and use our resistive touchscreen controller (not included) to use I2C or SPI

We wrapped up this display into an easy-to-use breakout board, with SPI connections on one end and 8-bit on the other. Both are 3-5V compliant with high-speed level shifters so you can use with any microcontroller. If you're going with SPI mode, you can also take advantage of the onboard MicroSD card socket to display images. (microSD card not included, but any will work)

Of course, we wouldn't just leave you with a datasheet and a "good luck!". For 8-bit interface fans we've written a full open source graphics library that can draw pixels, lines, rectangles, circles, text, and more. For SPI users, we have a library as well, its separate from the 8-bit library since both versions are heavily optimized. We also have a touch screen library that detects x, y and z (pressure) and example code to demonstrate all of it.

Follow our step by step guide for wiring, code and drawing. You'll be running in 15 minutes

If you are using an Arduino-shaped microcontroller, check out our TFT shield version of this same display, with SPI control and a touch screen controller as well

The 1.3" 168x144 SHARP Memory LCD display is a cross between an eInk (e-paper) display and an LCD. It has the ultra-low power usage of eInk and the fast-refresh rates of an LCD. This model has a gray background, and pixels show up as black-on-gray for a nice e-reader type display. It does not have a backlight, but it is daylight readable. For dark/night reading you may need to illuminate the LCD area with external LEDs.The bare display is 3V powered and 3V logic, so we placed it on a fully assembled & tested breakout board with a 3V regulator and level shifting circuitry. Now you can use it safely with 3 or 5V power and logic. The bare display slots into a ZIF socket on board and we use a piece of double-sided tape to adhere it onto one side. There are four mounting holes so you can easily attach it to a box.The display is 'write only' which means that it only needs 3 pins to send data. However, the downside of a write-only display is that the entire 168x144 bits (3 KB) must be buffered by the microcontroller driver. That means you cannot use this with an ATmega328 (e.g. Arduino UNO) or ATmega32u4 (Feather 32u4, etc). You must use a high-RAM chip such as ATSAMD21 (Feather M0), Teensy 3, ESP8266, ESP32, etc. On those chips, this display works great and looks wonderful.

Check our our detailed guide for wiring diagrams, schematics, libraries, code, Fritzing objects, etc!

Give your Ultimate GPS V3 a boost with this external active antenna. This GPS antenna draws about 10mA and will give you an additional 28 dB of gain. It's got a 5 meter long cable so it will easily reach wherever you need it to. The antenna is magnetic so it will stick to the top of a car or truck (or any other steel structure)Comes with a standard SMA connector on the end. If you want to connect to our Ultimate GPS V3 module, be sure to pick up a uFL to SMA adapter!GPS not included.

This battery holder connects 3 AA batteries together in series for powering all kinds of projects. We spec'd these out because the box is compact, and 3 AA's add up to about 3.3-4.5V, a very similar range to Lithium Ion/polymer (Li-Ion) batteries, plus it has a nifty on-off switch. That makes them ideal for use with 3.3V projects that have a 2-pin JST connector meant for one of our Li-Ion/Poly batteries. (Of course, you can't recharge them like Li-Ion/Polys, so don't try to plug this into one of our Li-Ion/Poly charger boards!). It also features an ergonomic belt clip for taking your power on the go!Fits any standard AA battery. When using rechargeable NiMH the output voltage will range from about 3.7V with charged batteries to 2.7V at the end of life with a nominal voltage of 3.6V. When using alkalines, the output will range from 4.5V with new batteries to 3.3V at the end of life with a nominal voltage of about 4.5V.The polarity matches that of our 2-pin JST cable and Li-Ion/Poly batteries. Uses a genuine JST connector so it wont 'catch and tear' in JST connectors.

This battery holder connects 3 AAA batteries together in series for powering all kinds of projects. We spec'd these out because the box is slim, and 3 AAA's add up to about 3.3-4.5V, a very similar range to Lithium Ion/polymer (Li-Ion) batteries, plus it has a nifty on-off switch. That makes them ideal for use with 3.3V projects that have a 2-pin JST connector meant for one of our Li-Ion/Poly batteries. (Of course, you can't recharge them like Li-Ion/Polys, so don't try to plug this into one of our Li-Ion/Poly charger boards!) It also features an ergonomic belt clip for taking your power on the go.Fits any standard AAA battery. When using rechargeable NiMH the output voltage will range from about 3.7V with charged batteries to 2.7V at the end of life with a nominal voltage of 3.6V. When using alkalines, the output will range from 4.6V with new batteries to 3.3V at the end of life with a nominal voltage of about 4.5V.The polarity matches that of our 2-pin JST cable and Li-Ion/Poly batteries. Uses a genuine JST connector so it wont 'catch and tear' in JST connectors.

If you didn't think that the Raspberry Pi Zero could possibly get any better, then boy do we have a pleasant surprise for you! The new Raspberry Pi Zero W offers all the benefits of the Pi Zero v1.3, but with one big difference – built-in WiFi!

More specifically, this giant upgrade is the addition of a BCM43143 WiFi chip BUILT-IN to your Raspberry Pi Zero – just like the Pi 3! No more pesky WiFi adapters - this Pi is WiFi ready. There’s also Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) on board making the Pi an excellent IoT solution (BLE support is still in the works, software-wise).

We also have a basic pack, budget pack and starter pack with all the essentials to get your Zero W up and running.

Note: Due to popular demand, there might be some delay in shipping products containing Pi Zero W!

At first glance, the Pi Zero W looks just like the Raspberry Pi Zero v1.3 we know and love. But when we started to think of the added convenience of not having to worry about hooking up a WiFi dongle or Ethernet cable - and what a well-chosen set of accessories could add - we realized the appeal. And then we saw the price...could it be true? Yes!

This is the slimmest, most pared down Raspberry Pi to date. It's kind of like the little cousin to the Pi 3 - with just a micro SD card slot, a mini HDMI port, two micro USB ports (one for power, one for USB), and 512MB of RAM. It has a single-core 1 GHz processor chip, similar to the Pi A+ and B+.

The best part about all this is that the Pi Zero W keeps the same shape, connectors, and mounting holes as the Pi Zero v1.3. 99% of cases and accessories will still be fully compatible with both the Pi Zero W and v1.3 - though if you have a case with a metal top there might be some WiFi chip difficulties.

Please note - even though there's built-in WiFi, the Pi Zero W is quite minimal and requires a few accessories to turn it into a computer! At a minimum we recommend:

A good quality 5V power supply - Either a 5V 2A with cable or combine a  5V 1A power supply and a Micro B USB cable - this will allow you to power the Zero from a wall adaper. It is not suggested to power the Zero from a computer USB port as the voltage often sags and can cause SD card corruption!

4GB+ SD Card with Operating System - You can grab a ready-to-go Raspbian card that has the correct firmware for the Zero here. Or you can pick up an 8G card with NOOBS 2.0. Or use a blank 4G SD card and burn in Raspbian Wheezy and update the firmware. Make sure you have the latest version!

Mini HDMI to HDMI Adapter - Will let you convert the little port on the Zero to a standard sized HDMI jack. You can get 1080P HDMI video + audio out of this little computer!

USB OTG Cable - Lets you plug in a normal USB device such as WiFi dongle, USB hub, keyboard, mouse, etc into the Zero.

USB Console cable - if you're not going to stick an HDMI monitor on there, then this is essential, you connect the wires to the GPIO pins and log in over a serial console. Its the easiest & fastest way to get on your Pi

2x20 Male header strip - Solder this in to plug in Pi HATs, GPIO cables, etc as you would into a normal Pi. (We also have a 2x20 Female and 2x20 Female right-angle style for more exotic connecting)

To keep the price and size as small as possible, there is a spot on the Zero for a 2x20 pin header. This header is not included or soldered on. Creative individuals can easily solder in a set of 2x20 male header strip so you can plug in any sort of Pi HAT or other plug-in topper.  Or, go with a 2x20 female header and plug the Pi Zero directly into an Adafruit Cobbler or T-Cobbler.  

We also strongly recommend some other parts and pieces to make your Pi Zero computing experience easier:

Adafruit Pi Zero Enclosure - Adafruit's classic, sturdy plastic enclosure. Keeps your Pi Zero safe and sleek.

Pi Zero Protector - Keep your Pi Zero safe while handling with this simple sandwich-style acrylic case.

USB Powered Hub - So you can plug in any kind of USB devices without overloading the Zero's power supply. (You can also, ironically, power the Zero from the hub itself by plugging in a micro USB cable into the hub)

Mini Wireless Keyboard w/Trackpad - Requires only one USB port, which makes it a great match for the Pi Zero

Wireless Keyboard + Mouse set - Also requires only one USB port, but for everyday use.

Pi Cobbler or T-Cobbler - When paired with the male or female 2x20 pin header, you can use your Zero with a breadboard to connect sensors, LEDs, motors and more!

Ethernet Hub and USB Hub w/ Micro USB OTG Connector - One can never have enough socks, or USB ports. Add some more USB and Ethernet capability to your Raspberry Pi Zero if you're an Ethernet enthusiast!

Please note: Some boards are made in the UK, some in China. WE DO NOT KNOW IN ADVANCE WHICH ONES YOU MAY RECEIVE!

One can never have enough socks, or USB ports. Add some more USB capability to your Raspberry Pi Zero with the Zero4U!

This is a 4-port USB hub for Raspberry Pi Zero, and it can be mounted back-to-back onto a Pi Zero. The 4 pogo pins on the back will connect the PP1, PP6, PP22 and PP23 testing pads on your Raspberry Pi Zero – no soldering required!

This item can only work with the Zero W if a ferrite ring is installed!

The USB hub will take power directly from your Pi Zero, so you don’t need to power the USB hub separately. However you can use the JST XH2.54 connector on board as an alternative power input port. The blue onboard LED is the power indicator, and will light up when power is connected. Each USB port uses a dedicated white LED as a transaction indicator, and a dedicated electrolytic capacitor to help stabilize the output voltage.

If you use this USB hub with other types of computers, you can use a USB cable (not included) to connect the onboard mini-USB port to the up-stream USB port.

Kit includes:

4-port USB hub board x 1

Plastic spacer x 4

M2.5 plastic screw x 4

M2.5 plastic nut x 4

Note: This version of Zero4U only works with the Raspberry Pi Zero v1.3 (with camera connector).

Note: As of 3/29/2017, this ships with a small Ferrite ring in each Zero4U package, in order to support the newly released Raspberry Pi Zero W. The user can put that Ferrite ring on the pogo pins to avoid the interference from the on-board antenna.

PiJack is a HAT (yes, a proper HAT, not a pHAT!) add-on board for the Raspberry Pi Zero mini computer that makes connecting your Pi Zero to the Internet via Ethernet super simple. If you're fed up with flaky WiFi and want your Pi Zero to be online all the time, then this HAT is for you!

PiJack is a neat little board with an Ethernet controller and standard RJ45 connector so you can hook your Pi up to your home or office network using standard Ethernet cables. PiJack is ready to go – there's no special software or drivers to install. It works right out of the box with Raspbian – simply attach PiJack to your Pi's GPIO header and plug it in!

Features:

10Mbps Ethernet connection

Two blinky LEDs for connection status

HAT-standard-compliant EEPROM makes setup automatic, works straight away with Raspbian!

Uses the Pi Zero's GPIO pins, your USB connector is still free for something else!

Note: Pi Zero and Ethernet cable not included!

PiJack is well engineered and uses high quality components and connectors (that won't snap off the first time you use it!). PiJack is built in the EU, and every board is tested to make sure it'll work for you first time.

The Pimoroni Speaker pHAT crams an I2S DAC and mono amplifier, a tiny 8Ω 2W speaker, and a 10 LED bar graph all onto one teeny little pHAT. It's the neatest way to add audio to your Pi project, and its beautiful artwork evokes an 80s boombox!

Pimoroni isn't claiming audiophile sound quality, but it's perfect for fun little projects where you want to add sound output – speech, notification sounds, or light music, for example.

Why not combine it with a little USB microphone to make a tiny voice-activated assistant in the style of Amazon's Echo? Or set up a simple Flask API and send audio notifications to it from IFTTT with a simple HTTP request.

It comes as a kit, so you'll have to solder on the female 40 pin header, and screw and solder the speaker on. Check out Pimoroni's assembly guide for more details.

Features:

I2S audio DAC with 3W mono amplifier (MAX98357A)

Default output of 0.45W/26.5dB

8Ω 2W Mylar speaker

Routed holes to channel sound

10 bright white bar graph LEDs

SN3218 LED driver chip

Compatible with Raspberry Pi 3, 2, B+, A+, and Zero

Female header and speaker require soldering (includes a piece of bare wire to solder the speaker)

Kit includes:

Speaker pHAT

8Ω 2W Mylar speaker

2x20 pin female header

5cm 24AWG bare wire

4x M2x8 black nylon bolts

8x M2 black nylon nuts

Note: Pi Zero not included!

Looking for an unashamedly old school LED matrix display board? Lookie here! The Pimoroni Micro Dot pHAT is made up of six red LED matrices, each 5x7 pixels (for an effective display area of 30x7) plus a decimal point, using the beautiful little Lite-On LTP-305 matrices.

Perfect for building a retro scrolling message display, a tiny 30-band spectrum analyzer, or a retro clock. Far out!

As with the other pHATs, it works with all of the 40-pin Raspberry Pi variants - 3/2/B+/A+/Zero - but using it with the Pi Zero makes for a super-tiny package.

Features:

3x onboard IS31FL3730 LED matrix driver chips

Drives up to 6 x LTP-305 red LED matrices

Up to 30x7 pixels (5x7 per matrix plus a decimal point)

Kit includes:

Assembled Micro Dot pHAT PCB

2x20 0.1" female GPIO header

6 Red LTP-305 LED modules

Micro Dot pHAT also works well with other pHATs and HATs. You could use it in combination with pHAT DAC to display the audio spectrum, or with Enviro pHAT to display its temperature, pressure and light readings. Give it a try!

Note: These pHAT boards require you to solder on the headers and LTP-305 modules (through-hole components). Works with any 40-pin Raspberry Pi variant.

This touch-able add on HAT for Raspberry Pi will inspire your next interactive project with 12 capacitive touch sensors. Capacitive touch sensing works by detecting when a person (or animal) has touched one of the sensor electrodes. Capacitive touch sensing used for stuff like touch-reactive tablets and phones, as well as control panels for appliances, which is where you may have used it before. This HAT allows you to create electronics that can react to human touch, with up to 12 individual sensors.

The HAT has 12 'figure 8' holes in it that can be gripped onto with alligator clip cables. Attach one side of the clip to the HAT and the other side to something electrically conductive (like metal) or full of water (like vegetables or fruit!) Then start up our handy Python library code to detect when the object is touched. That's pretty much it, very easy! For advanced users, you can also solder to a pad to make a slimmer & more permanent connection.

Works great with Raspberry Pi Model A+, B+, or Pi 2. This HAT can be used with Model A or Model B but requires purchase/soldering of a extra-tall 2x13 header instead of the 2x20 included.

We're working on a detailed tutorial, meanwhile you can check out the tutorial for the non-HAT/breakout-version of this chip with the Raspberry Pi here which uses the exact same library and code. We have examples for reading touches, turning touches into keyboard KeyUp/KeyDown presses (so you can make a veggie-keyboard) as well as an audio player that will play a sound per sensor (fruit drums!)

Each order comes with a Capacitive Touch HAT and a 2x20 socket header. You'll need to do some light through-hole soldering to attach the headers onto the HAT circuit board, but its easy to do with basic soldering tools like a soldering iron and rosin core electronics solder. You'll also likely want to pick up a 12 pack of alligator clips!

Please note! This kit does not come with Raspberry Pi, alligator clips, speaker, or delicious fruit! However, we do have all of those in the store. Well, all except fruit - despite being called Adafruit, we do not actually sell fruit

The Terminal Block Breakout FeatherWing kit is like the Golden Eagle of prototyping FeatherWings (eg. majestic, powerful, good-looking). To start, you get a nice prototyping area underneath your Feather, with extra pads for ground, 3.3V and SDA/SCL. Not one to stop there, we expanded the PCB out to 2" x 2.5" with 3.5mm pitch terminal blocks down each side. There's also four mounting holes so you can attach the breakout to your enclosure or project.

This product works with all our Feathers! The terminal blocks allow you to connect to any of the external Feather pins, great for wiring temporary or permanent installations. We also give you a few extra terminal block pins for ground and 3.3V connections since those are so useful.

Finally, there's a slide switch, which connects the EN pin to ground when in the 'off' position, cutting off the 3.3V regulator. Note that the FONA Feather uses both VBat and 3.3V as power supplies so you wont be able to fully turn off the FONA Feather with this switch.

Note: As of Thursday, December 15th 2016, this product now comes fully assembled! Plug in your Feather and you're ready to go immediately.

Also, the terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black.

This is the FeatherWing Doubler - a prototyping add-on and more for all Feather boards. This is similar to our FeatherWing Proto except there are two! The magic of the Doubler comes when stacking a Feather and another board on top of the Doubler so you can work with both boards simultaneously side-by-side! In addition to the board the Doubler comes with:

1 Doubler PCB

1 set Feather Stacking Headers

1 set Feather Female Headers

The Doubler, like the Proto, has a duplicate breakout for each pin on a Feather, as well as a bunch of plain grid proto holes. Also, the two sets of pins are cross connected and for GND and 3.3V, we give you a full strip of connected pads.

You'll need to solder on the female headers or stacking headers however you like, the Doubler comes as a mini kit!

Check out our range of Feather boards here.

Convert just about any battery pack to 5V with VERTER - our fresh new Buck-Boost power converter. VERTER can take battery voltages from 3-12VDC and output a nice 5V DC, which makes it a perfect universal power supply for your portable project! Where Verter really shines is when you have a battery or power range that can fluctuate a lot, or you don't know what you'll end up using.

It operates smoothly over the 3-12V range, moving from a boost converter (3-5V in) to a buck converter (5-12V in) on the fly. Please note! This chip can do both, but it really works better as a buck converter than a boost. If you need a full 500mA out, it will struggle as it gets down to 3V and the output will sag to about 4.8V (which is still within standard USB power specs). If you only need something to boost a voltage up to 5V and you want it to be really good at it, check out our PowerBoost series, which excel at that.

Like our popular 5V 1A USB wall adapter, we tweaked the output to be 5.2V instead of a straight-up 5.0V so that there's a little bit of 'headroom' long cables, high draw, the addition of a diode on the output if you wish, etc. The 5.2V is safe for all 5V-powered electronics like Arduino, Raspberry Pi, or Beagle Bone while preventing icky brown-outs during high current draw because of USB cable resistance.The VERTER has at the heart a TPS63060 boost converter from TI. This buck-boost converter chip can handle a wide range of voltages (3-12V) and has some really nice extras such as power good output, 2A internal switch, synchronous conversion, excellent efficiency, and 2.2MHz high-frequency operation. Check out these specs!

Synchronous operation means you can disconnect the output completely by connecting the ENable pin to ground. This will completely turn off the output

2A internal switch means you can get out 500mA from as low as 3V, and at least 1000mA from inputs as high 12V

On-board 500mA charge-rate 'Apple/iOS' data resistors. Solder in the included USB connector and you can plug in any iPhone or iPod for 500mA charge rate. Not suggested for iPad (which really needs 1A charge rate).

Full breakout for battery in, control pins and power out

90%+ operating efficiency in most cases (see datasheet for efficiency graphs), and low quiescent current: 5mA when enabled and power LED is on, 20uA when disabled (power and low batt LED are off)

Great for powering your robot, Arduino project, single-board-computer such as Raspberry Pi or BeagleBone from a wide variety of inputs. We especially like it for use with 4 x AA batteries, which can range from 7V for fresh alkalines down to 4V for nearly-dead rechargeables. If you're only going to be using voltages higher than 6V, we recommend our UBEC step-down. If you're only going to be using voltages under 5V, check out the PowerBoost 500 which has much better boosting capability

Each order comes with one fully assembled and tested PCB, 2 pin terminal block, and a loose USB A jack. If you are powering your project from USB, solder the USB A jack in (a 3-minute soldering task). If you would like to use a terminal block, pick up a 3.5mm 2pin block here and solder to the output spot where the USB jack would go. The terminal block goes on the input side, so  you can easily connect and disconnect a battery pack. Or don't solder anything in for a more compact power pack. 

Note: The terminal block included with your product may be blue or black.

PowerBoost 500C is the perfect power supply for your portable project! With a built-in battery charger circuit, you'll be able to keep your project running even while recharging the battery! This little DC/DC boost converter module can be powered by any 3.7V LiIon/LiPoly battery, and convert the battery output to 5.2V DC for running your 5V projects.

If you need a 1A battery charger, smart load-sharing, and 1A iOS resistors, check out the Powerboost 1000C

Like our popular 5V 1A USB wall adapter, we tweaked the output to be 5.2V instead of a straight-up 5.0V so that there's a little bit of 'headroom' for long cables, high draw, the addition of a diode on the output if you wish, etc. The 5.2V is safe for all 5V-powered electronics like Arduino, Raspberry Pi, or Beagle Bone while preventing icky brown-outs during high current draw because of USB cable resistance.

The PowerBoost 500C has at the heart a TPS61090 boost converter from TI. This boost converter chip has some really nice extras such as low battery detection, 2A internal switch, synchronous conversion, excellent efficiency, and 700KHz high-frequency operation. Check out these specs!

Synchronous operation means you can disconnect the output completely by connecting the ENable pin to ground. This will completely turn off the output

2A internal switch (~2.5A peak limiting) means you can get 500mA+ from a 3.7V LiPoly/LiIon battery. We had no problem drawing 1000mA, just make sure your battery can handle it!

Low battery indicator LED lights up red when the voltage dips below 3.2V, optimized for LiPo/LiIon battery usage

Onboard 500mA charge-rate 'iOS' data resistors. Solder in the USB connector and you can plug in any iPhone or iPod for 500mA charge rate. Not suggested for large iPads.

Full breakout for battery in, control pins and power out

90%+ operating efficiency in most cases (see datasheet for efficiency graphs), and low quiescent current: 5mA when enabled and power LED is on, 20uA when disabled (power and low batt LED are off)

To make this even more useful, we stuck a MicroLipo charger on the other side. The charger circuitry is powered from a microUSB jack, and will recharge any 3.7V/4.2V LiIon or LiPoly battery at 500mA max rate. There's two LEDs for monitoring the charge rate, a yellow one tells you its working, a green one lights up when its done. You can charge and boost at the same time no problem, without any interruption on the output so its fine for use as a "UPS" (un-interruptable power supply) for a low-current draw device. Just be aware that the charge rate is 500mA max, so if you're drawing more than ~300mA continuously from the 5V output side, the battery will slowly drain since the charge rate is less than the dis-charge rate.

Great for powering your robot, Arduino project, single-board-computer such as Raspberry Pi or BeagleBone! Each order comes with one fully assembled and tested PCB and a loose USB A jack. If you are powering your project from USB, solder the USB A jack in (a 3-minute soldering task). If you would like to use a terminal block, pick up a 3.5mm 2pin block here and solder to the output spot where the USB jack would go. Or don't solder anything in for a more compact power pack.

Each order comes with a fully assembled and tested PowerBoost 500C + USB jack. Does not come with a Lipoly or LiIon battery, but we have tons in the shop, just pick one with more than 500mAh of capacity. Also doesn't come with the nice iPhone or charger cable. You can also grab a switch that can be soldered in to create an output on/off switch. Be sure to read our lovely tutorial for details, schematics, and more!

If you're trying to figure out how much current your project is using, check out the CHARGER DOCTOR!

PowerBoost is the perfect power supply for your power-hungry portable project! This little DC/DC boost converter module can run from 1.8V batteries or higher, and convert that voltage to 5.2V DC for running your 5V projects. With a beefy 4A DC/DC converter, it can give you 1A+ from as low as 2V. Like our popular 5V 1A USB wall adapter, we tweaked the output to be 5.2V instead of a straight-up 5.0V so that there's a little bit of 'headroom' long cables, high draw, the addition of a diode on the output if you wish, etc. The 5.2V is safe for all 5V-powered electronics like Arduino, Raspberry Pi, or Beagle Bone while preventing icky brown-outs during high current draw because of USB cable resistance.

The PowerBoost 1000 has at the heart a TPS61030 boost converter from TI. This boost converter chip has some really nice extras such as low battery detection, 4A internal switch, synchronous conversion, excellent efficiency, and 700KHz high-frequency operation. Check out these specs!

Synchronous operation means you can disconnect the output completely by connecting the ENable pin to ground. This will completely turn off the output

4A internal switch means you can get 1000mA+ from as low as 1.8V, 1500mA+ from 2 NiMH or Alkaline batteries, and at least 2000mA from a 3.7V LiPoly/LiIon battery or 3 NiMH/Alkalines. Just make sure your batteries can actually supply the required 2-4A, OK?

Low battery indicator LED lights up red when the voltage dips below 3.2V, optimized for the most common usage of LiPo/LiIon battery usage

On-board 1000mA charge-rate 'Apple/iOS' data resistors. Solder in the included USB connector and you can plug in any iPhone or iPod for a speedy 1000mA charge rate. Works with iPads, both mini and 'classic' type.

Full breakout for battery in, control pins and power out

90%+ operating efficiency in most cases (see datasheet for efficiency graphs), and low quiescent current: 5mA when enabled and power LED is on, 20uA when disabled (power and low batt LED are off)

Great for powering your robot, Arduino project, single-board-computer such as Raspberry Pi or BeagleBone! Each order comes with one fully assembled and tested PCB, a loose 2-PH JST jack, a 2-pin Terminal block and a loose USB A jack.

If you are powering your project from USB, solder the USB A jack in (a 3-minute soldering task). Then choose either JST for input (JST is often used for our LiIon batteries, but the connector is only rated for 2A) or a terminal block. 

The 1000 version comes with a 2-pin terminal block so you can solder it to the output spot where the USB jack would go. Or don't solder any connectors in for a more compact power pack and go with 22AWG wires soldered directly in.

Note: The terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black.

PowerBoost 1000C is the perfect power supply for your portable project! With a built-in load-sharing battery charger circuit, you'll be able to keep your power-hungry project running even while recharging the battery! This little DC/DC boost converter module can be powered by any 3.7V LiIon/LiPoly battery, and convert the battery output to 5.2V DC for running your 5V projects.

If you dont need the 1A battery charger, smart load-sharing, or 1A iOS resistors, check out the Powerboost 500CLike our popular 5V 1A USB wall adapter, we tweaked the output to be 5.2V instead of a straight-up 5.0V so that there's a little bit of 'headroom' for long cables, high draw, the addition of a diode on the output if you wish, etc. The 5.2V is safe for all 5V-powered electronics like Arduino, Raspberry Pi, or Beagle Bone while preventing icky brown-outs during high current draw because of USB cable resistance.

The PowerBoost 1000C has at the heart a TPS61090 boost converter from TI. This boost converter chip has some really nice extras such as low battery detection, 2A internal switch, synchronous conversion, excellent efficiency, and 700KHz high-frequency operation. Check out these specs!

Synchronous operation means you can disconnect the output completely by connecting the ENable pin to ground. This will completely turn off the output

2A internal switch (~2.5A peak limiting) means you can get 1000mA+ from a 3.7V LiPoly/LiIon battery. Just make sure your battery can handle it!

Low battery indicator LED lights up red when the voltage dips below 3.2V, optimized for LiPo/LiIon battery usage

Onboard 1000mA charge-rate 'iOS' data resistors. Solder in the USB connector and you can plug in any iPad, iPhone or iPod for 1000mA charge rate.

Full breakout for battery in, control pins and power out

90%+ operating efficiency in most cases (see datasheet for efficiency graphs), and low quiescent current: 5mA when enabled and power LED is on, 20uA when disabled (power and low batt LED are off)

To make this even more useful, we stuck a smart load-sharing Lipoly charger on the other side. The charger circuitry is powered from a microUSB jack, and will recharge any 3.7V/4.2V LiIon or LiPoly battery at 1000mA max rate. There's two LEDs for monitoring the charge rate, a yellow one tells you its working, a green one lights up when its done.

Since the built-in battery charger has load-sharing, it will automatically switch over to the USB power when available, instead of continuously charging/draining the battery. This is more efficient, and lets you charge-and-boost at the same time without any interruption on the output so its fine for use as a "UPS" (un-interruptable power supply).

Just be aware that the charge rate is 1000mA max, and there's some inefficiency during the boosting stage, so make super sure that the USB adapter you're using to charge with is high quality, can supply 2A and has thick power wires. This one from Adafruit is ideal and has been tested, lower quality ones will not act well due to the voltage drop on the wires or droop on the power supply. This is especially true if you're actually drawing 1000mA out of the PowerBoost 1000C, the MCP73871 maxes out at 1.8A.You do have to always have a LiPo plugged into manage the load spikes, it's not optional!

This charger-booster is great for powering your robot, Arduino project, single-board-computer such as Raspberry Pi or BeagleBone! Each order comes with one fully assembled and tested PCB and a loose USB A jack. If you are powering your project from USB, solder the USB A jack in (a 3-minute soldering task). If you would like to use a terminal block, pick up a 3.5mm 2pin block here and solder to the output spot where the USB jack would go. Or dont solder anything in for a more compact power pack.

If you're trying to figure out how much current your project is using, check out the CHARGER DOCTOR!

You may get an off-white or black JST connector.

Your power supply problems just got SUPER SOLVED! This 3.3V Buck Converter Breakout board is great for supplying power to low voltage circuits from a single Li-Ion cell battery or USB power.  This chip provides up to 600-mA load current across the entire input voltage range of 3.5 to 5.5V.  Great for your portable project, we made this "pin compatible" with the LM1117-3.3V TO-220 chip so you can swap it in for better performance (90-95% efficiency!) There's also an ENable pin, tie it low to shut down the output completely.

There's a 2-MHz fixed-frequency in PWM mode and PFM mode extends the battery life by reducing the current during light load or standby operation.

Comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout board.  We also include header to plug it into a breadboard.

USB has become the core of many projects, but it's troublesome to test USB voltage levels and current usage using a breadboard. Some people try to splice cables and alligator clip onto frayed ends, but it's difficult to get solid readings. This USB Tester will make it much easier to monitor any USB project's power source.As part of the USB spec, ports are limited to 500mA, so you want to monitor how close you are. Most people use USB hubs, both powered and unpowered, and with many devices connected, you can end up with less than 5V which can cause havoc on you projects. The USB Tester will make it a snap to monitor voltage levels and current usage without having to re-wire your breadboard. Just connect to your oscilloscope or DMM test leads, and you’re good to go! The USB Tester has both banana clip sized drills and standard 0.1” headers. When you are not testing current you can add a jumper for normal operation. The USB D+/D- pins are also broken out so you can monitor those on an oscilloscope, or for USB sniffing.Comes with an assembled PCB and a jumper. For more information on how to use, check out the product page.

FriedCircuits USB Tester v1.3 (5:39)

Interfacing a new microchip can be a hassle. Breadboarding a circuit, writing code, hauling out the programmer, or maybe even prototyping a PCB. We never seem to get it right on the first try.

The 'Bus Pirate' is a universal bus interface that talks to most chips from a PC serial terminal, eliminating a ton of early prototyping effort when working with new or unknown chips. Many serial protocols are supported at 0-5.5volts, more can be added.

Adafruit is the official US distributor of Ian Lesnet's Bus Pirate, each purchase directly supports Dangerous Prototypes! You may also want to pick up a probe set.

Protocols: 1-Wire, I2C, SPI, JTAG, asynchronous serial (UART), MIDI, PC keyboard, HD44780 LCDs, and generic 2- and 3-wire libraries for custom protocols.

Features:

USB interface, USB powered

0-5.5volt tolerant pins

0-6volt measurement probe

1Hz-40MHz frequency measurement

1kHz - 4MHz pulse-width modulator, frequency generator

On-board multi-voltage pull-up resistors

On-board 3.3volt and 5volt power supplies with software reset

Macros for common operations

Bus traffic sniffers (SPI, I2C)

A bootloader for easy USB firmware updates

Transparent USB->serial bridge mode

10Hz-1MHz low-speed logic analyzer

Custom support in AVRDUDE, Flashrom

AVR STK500 v2 programmer clone

Scriptable from Perl, Python, etc.

Translations (currently Spanish and Italian)

Add Internet to your next project with an adorable, bite-sized WiFi microcontroller, at a price you like! The ESP8266 processor from Espressif is an 80 MHz microcontroller with a full WiFi front-end (both as client and access point) and TCP/IP stack with DNS support as well.  We do sell these on a breakout, but maybe you wanna just put this in your own project PCB.

These modules are very easy to hand solder, with big pads! We have this part in the Adafruit Eagle library (ESP12) - the extra pads don't appear but they are not usable anyways.

Comes with 4MB flash chip, ESP processory, and onboard antenna. These come pre-progammed with the NodeMCU Lua firmware, so you are ready to rock. Some extra parts will be needed to get this going, check out the HUZZAH schematic for the extra components we recommend

For advanced users only! This product is just the module - which can be difficult to use.  Click here if you're looking for the Huzzah ESP8266 Breakout!

We still love the Pro Trinket but the bit-bang USB technique it uses doesn't work as well as it did in 2014. So while we still carry the Pro Trinket, we really recommend using the Metro Mini (ATmega328 @ 5V 16 MHz), ItsyBitsy 32u4 5V 16MHz, ItsyBitsy 32u4 @ 3.3V 8MHz or ItsyBitsy M0 @ 3V 48MHz. All have built-in USB and are comparable in price! The ItsyBitsy's especially are about the same size and have native USB and tons of pins, so they're a very close compatible.

Trinket's got a big sister in town - the Pro Trinket 5V! Pro Trinket combines everything you love about Trinket with the familiarity of the common core Arduino chip, the ATmega328. It's like an Arduino Pro Mini with more pins and USB tossed in, so delicious.

Trinket's a year old now, and while its been great to see tons of tiny projects, sometimes you just need more pins, more FLASH, and more RAM. That's why we designed Pro Trinket, with 18 GPIO, 2 extra analog inputs, 28K of flash, and 2K of RAM.

Like the Trinket, it has onboard USB bootloading support - we opted for a MicroUSB jack this time. We also added Optiboot support, so you can either program your Pro Trinket over USB or with a FTDI cable just like the Pro Mini and friends.

The Pro Trinket PCB measures only 1.5" x 0.7" x 0.2" (without headers) but packs much of the same capability as an Arduino UNO. So it's great once you've finished up a prototype on an official Arduino UNO and want to make the project smaller.

The Pro Trinket 5V uses the Atmega328P chip, which is the same core chip in the Arduino UNO/Duemilanove/Mini/etc. at the same speed and voltage. So you'll be happy to hear that not only is Pro Trinket programmable using the Arduino IDE as you already set up, but 99% of Arduino projects will work out of the box!

For tons more details, check out the Introducing Pro Trinket tutorial

Here's some things you may have to consider when adapting Arduino sketches:

Pins #2 and #7 are not available (they are exclusively for USB)

The onboard 5V regulator can provide 150mA output, not 800mA out

You cannot plug shields directly into the Pro Trinket

There is no Serial-to-USB chip onboard. This is to keep the Pro Trinket small and inexpensive, you can use any FTDI cable to connect to the FTDI port for a Serial connection. The USB connection is for uploading new code only.

The bootloader on the Pro Trinket use 4KB of FLASH so the maximum sketch size is 28,672 bytes. The bootloader does not affect RAM usage.

Here's some handy specifications:

ATmega328P onboad chip in QFN package

16MHz clock rate, 28K FLASH available

USB bootloader with a nice LED indicator looks just like a USBtinyISP so you can program it with AVRdude and/or the Arduino IDE (with a few simple config modifications).

Also has headers for an FTDI port for reprogramming

Micro-USB jack for power and/or USB uploading, you can put it in a box or tape it up and use any USB cable for when you want to reprogram.

On-board 5.0V power regulator with 150mA output capability and ultra-low dropout. Up to 16V input, reverse-polarity protection, thermal and current-limit protection.

Power with either USB or external output (such as a battery) - it'll automatically switch over

On-board green power LED and red pin #13 LED

Reset button for entering the bootloader or restarting the program.

Works with 99% of existing Arduino sketches (anything that doesn't use more than 28K, and doesn't require pins #2 and #7)

Mounting holes! Yeah!

Once headers are installed they can be fitted into 0.6" wide sockets

As of October 9th, 2015 the 5V Trinket comes with a micro-USB connector instead of a mini-USB connector!

Trinket may be small, but do not be fooled by its size! It's a tiny microcontroller board, built around the Atmel ATtiny85, a little chip with a lot of power. We wanted to design a microcontroller board that was small enough to fit into any project, and low cost enough to use without hesitation. Perfect for when you don't want to give up your expensive dev-board and you aren't willing to take apart the project you worked so hard to design. It's our lowest-cost arduino-IDE programmable board!The Attiny85 is a fun processor because despite being so small, it has 8K of flash, and 5 I/O pins, including analog inputs and PWM 'analog' outputs. We designed a USB bootloader so you can plug it into any computer and reprogram it over a USB port just like an Arduino. In fact we even made some simple modifications to the Arduino IDE so that it works like a mini-Arduino board. You can't stack a big shield on it but for many small & simple projects the Trinket will be your go-to platform.This is the 5V Trinket. There are two versions of the Trinket. One is 3V and one is 5V. Both work the same, but have different operating logic voltages. Use the 3V one to interface with sensors and devices that need 3V logic, or when you want to power it off of a LiPo battery. The 3V version should only run at 8 MHz. Use the 5V one for sensors and components that can use or require 5V logic. The 5V version can run at 8 MHz or at 16MHz by setting the software-set clock frequency.Even though you can program Trinket using the Arduino IDE, it's not a fully 100% Arduino-compatible. There are some things you trade off for such a small and low cost microcontroller!

Trinket does not have a Serial port connection for debugging so the serial port monitor will not be able to send/receive data

Some computers' USB v3 ports don't recognize the Trinket's bootloader. Simply use a USB v2 port or a USB hub in between

Here are some useful specifications!

ATtiny85 on-board, 8K of flash, 512 byte of SRAM, 512 bytes of EEPROM

Internal oscillator runs at 8MHz, but can be doubled in software for 16MHz

USB bootloader with a nice LED indicator looks just like a USBtinyISP so you can program it with AVRdude (with a simple config modification) and/or the Arduino IDE (with a few simple config modifications)

Micro-USB jack for power and/or USB uploading, you can put it in a box or tape it up and use any USB cable for when you want to reprogram.

We really worked hard on the bootloader process to make it rugged and foolproof, this board wont up and die on you in the middle of a project!

~5.25K bytes available for use (2.75K taken for the bootloader)

Available in both 3V and 5V flavors

On-board 3.3V or 5.0V power regulator with 150mA output capability and ultra-low dropout. Up to 16V input, reverse-polarity protection, thermal and current-limit protection.

Power with either USB or external output (such as a battery) - it'll automatically switch over

On-board green power LED and red pin #1 LED

Reset button for entering the bootloader or restarting the program. No need to unplug/replug the board every time you want to reset or update!

5 GPIO - 2 shared with the USB interface. The 3 independent IO pins have 1 analog input and 2 PWM output as well. The 2 shared IO pins have 2 more analog inputs and one more PWM output.

Hardware I2C / SPI capability for breakout & sensor interfacing.

Works with many basic Arduino libraries including Adafruit Neopixel!

Mounting holes! Yeah!

Really really small

For a lot more details, including a tour of the Trinket, pinout details and Arduino IDE examples, check out the Introducing Trinket tutorial

Trinket may be small, but do not be fooled by its size! It's a tiny microcontroller board, built around the Atmel ATtiny85, a little chip with a lot of power. We wanted to design a microcontroller board that was small enough to fit into any project, and low cost enough to use without hesitation. Perfect for when you don't want to give up your expensive dev-board and you aren't willing to take apart the project you worked so hard to design. It's our lowest-cost arduino-IDE programmable board!

As of May 27th, 2015 the 3.3V Trinket has been revised! The board is now even smaller - at just 27mm x 15mm - and comes with a micro-B USB connector rather than mini-BThe Attiny85 is a fun processor because despite being so small, it has 8K of flash, and 5 I/O pins, including analog inputs and PWM 'analog' outputs. We designed a USB bootloader so you can plug it into any computer and reprogram it over a USB port just like an Arduino. In fact we even made some simple modifications to the Arduino IDE so that it works like a mini-Arduino board. You can't stack a big shield on it but for many small & simple projects the Trinket will be your go-to platform.This is the 3V Trinket. There are two versions of the Trinket. One is 3V and one is 5V. Both work the same, but have different operating logic voltages. Use the 3V one to interface with sensors and devices that need 3V logic, or when you want to power it off of a LiPo battery. The 3V version should only run at 8 MHz. Use the 5V one for sensors and components that can use or require 5V logic. The 5V version can run at 8 MHz or at 16MHz by setting the software-set clock frequency.Even though you can program Trinket using the Arduino IDE, it's not a fully 100% Arduino-compatible. There are some things you trade off for such a small and low cost microcontroller!

Trinket does not have a Serial port connection for debugging so the serial port monitor will not be able to send/receive data

Some computers' USB v3 ports don't recognize the Trinket's bootloader. Simply use a USB v2 port or a USB hub in between

Here are some useful specifications!

ATtiny85 on-board, 8K of flash, 512 byte of SRAM, 512 bytes of EEPROM

Internal oscillator runs at 8MHz, but can be doubled in software for 16MHz

USB bootloader with a nice LED indicator looks just like a USBtinyISP so you can program it with AVRdude (with a simple config modification) and/or the Arduino IDE (with a few simple config modifications)

Micro-USB jack for power and/or USB uploading, you can put it in a box or tape it up and use any USB cable for when you want to reprogram.

We really worked hard on the bootloader process to make it rugged and foolproof, this board wont up and die on you in the middle of a project!

~5.25K bytes available for use (2.75K taken for the bootloader)

Available in both 3V and 5V flavors

On-board 3.3V or 5.0V power regulator with 150mA output capability and ultra-low dropout. Up to 16V input, reverse-polarity protection, thermal and current-limit protection.

Power with either USB or external output (such as a battery) - it'll automatically switch over

On-board green power LED and red pin #1 LED

Reset button for entering the bootloader or restarting the program. No need to unplug/replug the board every time you want to reset or update!

5 GPIO - 2 shared with the USB interface. The 3 independent IO pins have 1 analog input and 2 PWM output as well. The 2 shared IO pins have 2 more analog inputs and one more PWM output.

Hardware I2C / SPI capability for breakout & sensor interfacing.

Works with many basic Arduino libraries including Adafruit Neopixel!

Mounting holes! Yeah!

Really really small

For a lot more details, including a tour of the Trinket, pinout details and Arduino IDE examples, check out the Introducing Trinket tutorial

Our Adafruit Bluefruit LE (Bluetooth Smart, Bluetooth Low Energy, Bluetooth 4.0) nRF8001 Breakout allows you to establish an easy to use wireless link between your Arduino and any compatible iOS or Android (4.3+) device. It works by simulating a UART device beneath the surface, sending ASCII data back and forth between the devices, letting you decide what data to send and what to do with it on either end of the connection.

Unlike classic Bluetooth, BLE has no big contracts to sign and no major hoops that you have to jump through to create iOS peripherals that you can legally design and distribute in the App Store, which makes it a great choice compared to classic Bluetooth which had (and still has) a lot of restrictions around it on the iOS platform.

And now that Android also officially supports Bluetooth Low Energy (as of Android 4.3), it's also -- finally! -- a universal communication channel covering the main mobile operating systems people are using today.

Please note! We still manufacture and support the nRF8001 Bluefruit module sold here, but we really recommend going with the fresh new Bluefruit LE nRF51822 based modules, they're much more powerful and thus need less code on the Arduino side, have a lot more capability and flexibility so you can do more, require fewer pins, are overall smaller, can be updated with new firmware and are FCC/CE approved! They come in both UART and SPI interface type (both have same functionality, one just uses serial, one uses SPI)

We can get you started super fast with this BLE module which can act like an 'every day' UART data link (with an RX and TX characteristic). Send and receive data up to 10 meters away, from your Arduino to an iOS device. We've even made it easy to get started with our very own BLE connect app that has a "serial console" for sending/receiving data and also an 'arduino pin i/o control station" to let you set pins on your Arduino to inputs or outputs, high or low logic or even PWM output, as well as read button presses and analog inputs. You can start prototyping your accessory and then use our open source Objective C code to base your new app on!

The nRF8001 is nice in that it is just a BLE 'peripheral' (client) front-end, so you can use any micrcontroller with SPI to drive it. We have example C++ code for Arduino, which you can port to any other microcontroller, but some microcontroller is required - it is not a stand-alone module!

This is a product for ADVANCED USERS - At this time we recommend this product for people who are either OK with using the apps available (Nordic's UART demo or our Bluefruit LE Connect) or are comfortable with writing iOS apps (and can refer to our App repository). We do not have a tutorial for writing your own iOS or Android BLE app at this time, don't worry we're working on one :)

We have a guide to help you setup your nRF8001 Bluetooth Low Energy breakout, and start using some of the sample sketches we provide with it to connect to an iOS or Android device.

We also now have an app for Android users available here!

If you're new to Bluetooth Low Energy, be sure to check out our Introduction to Bluetooth Low Energy learning guide as well!

"You see, wire telegraph is a kind of a very, very long cat.  You pull his tail in New York and his head is meowing in Los Angeles.  Do you understand this? And radio operates exactly the same way: you send signals here, they receive them there.  The only difference is that there is no cat."

Sending data over long distances is like magic, and now you can be a magician with this range of powerful and easy-to-use radio modules. Sure, sometimes you want to talk to a computer (a good time to use WiFi) or perhaps communicate with a Phone (choose Bluetooth Low Energy!) but what if you want to send data very far? Most WiFi, Bluetooth, Zigbee and other wireless chipsets use 2.4GHz, which is great for high speed transfers. If you aren't so concerned about streaming a video, you can use a lower license-free frequency such as 433 or 900 MHz. You can't send data as fast but you can send data a lot farther.'

Also, these packet radios are simpler than WiFi or BLE, you dont have to associate, pair, scan, or worry about connections. All you do is send data whenever you like, and any other modules tuned to that same frequency (and, with the same encryption key) will receive. The receiver can then send a reply back. The modules do packetization, error correction and can also auto-retransmit so its not like you have worry about everything but less power is wasted on maintaining a link or pairing.

These modules are great for use with Arduinos or other microcontrollers, say if you want a sensor node nework or transmit data over a campus or town. The trade off is you need two or more radios, with matching frequencies. WiFi and BT, on the other hand, are commonly included in computers and phones.

These radio modules come in four variants (two modulation types and two frequencies) The RFM69's are easiest to work with, and are well known and understood. The LoRa radios are exciting and more powerful but also more expensive.

This is the 900 MHz radio version, which can be used for either 868MHz or 915MHz transmission/reception - the exact radio frequency is determined when you load the software since it can be tuned around dynamically. We also carry a 433 MHz version here. These are +20dBm LoRa packet radios that have a special radio modulation that is not compatible with the RFM69s but can go much much farther. They can easily go 2 Km line of sight using simple wire antennas, or up to 20Km with directional antennas and settings tweakings

Packet radio with ready-to-go Arduino libraries

Uses the license-free ISM band: "European ISM" @ 868MHz or "American ISM" @ 915MHz

Use a simple wire antenna or spot for uFL or SMA radio connector

SX1276 LoRa® based module with SPI interface

+5 to +20 dBm up to 100 mW Power Output Capability (power output selectable in software)

~100mA peak during +20dBm transmit, ~30mA during active radio listening.

Range of approx. 2Km, depending on obstructions, frequency, antenna and power output

All radios are sold individually and can only talk to radios of the same part number. E.g. RFM69 900 MHz can only talk to RFM69 900 MHz, LoRa 433 MHz can only talk to LoRa 433, etc.

Each radio comes with some header, a 3.3V voltage regulator and levelshifter that can handle 3-5V DC power and logic so you can use it with 3V or 5V devices. Some soldering is required to attach the header. You will need to cut and solder on a small piece of wire (any solid or stranded core is fine) in order to create your antenna. Optionally you can pick up a uFL or SMA edge-mount connector and attach an external duck.

Check out our fine tutorial for wiring diagrams, example code, and more!

This is the 900 MHz radio version, which can be used for either 868MHz or 915MHz transmission/reception

- the exact radio frequency is determined when you load the software since it can be tuned around dynamically

"You see, wire telegraph is a kind of a very, very long cat.  You pull his tail in New York and his head is meowing in Los Angeles.  Do you understand this? And radio operates exactly the same way: you send signals here, they receive them there.  The only difference is that there is no cat."

Sending data over long distances is like magic, and now you can be a magician with this range of powerful and easy-to-use radio modules. Sure, sometimes you want to talk to a computer (a good time to use WiFi) or perhaps communicate with a Phone (choose Bluetooth Low Energy!) but what if you want to send data very far? Most WiFi, Bluetooth, Zigbee and other wireless chipsets use 2.4GHz, which is great for high speed transfers. If you aren't so concerned about streaming a video, you can use a lower license-free frequency such as 433 or 900 MHz. You can't send data as fast but you can send data a lot farther.'

Also, these packet radios are simpler than WiFi or BLE, you dont have to associate, pair, scan, or worry about connections. All you do is send data whenever you like, and any other modules tuned to that same frequency (and, with the same encryption key) will receive. The receiver can then send a reply back. The modules do packetization, error correction and can also auto-retransmit so its not like you have worry about everything but less power is wasted on maintaining a link or pairing.

These modules are great for use with Arduinos or other microcontrollers, say if you want a sensor node nework or transmit data over a campus or town. The trade off is you need two or more radios, with matching frequencies. WiFi and BT, on the other hand, are commonly included in computers and phones.

These radio modules come in four variants (two modulation types and two frequencies) The RFM69's are easiest to work with, and are well known and understood. The LoRa radios are exciting and more powerful but also more expensive.

This is the 900 MHz radio version, which can be used for either 868MHz or 915MHz transmission/reception - the exact radio frequency is determined when you load the software since it can be tuned around dynamically. We also carry an RFM69HCW 433 MHz version here.These are +20dBm FSK packet radios that have a lot of nice extras in them such as encryption and auto-retransmit. They can go at least 500 meters line of sight using simple wire antennas, probably up to 5Km with directional antennas and settings tweakings

SX1231 based module with SPI interface

+13 to +20 dBm up to 100 mW Power Output Capability (power output selectable in software)

50mA (+13 dBm) to 150mA (+20dBm) current draw for transmissions, ~30mA during active radio listening.

Range of approx. 500 meters, depending on obstructions, frequency, antenna and power output

Create multipoint networks with individual node addresses

Encrypted packet engine with AES-128

Packet radio with ready-to-go Arduino libraries

Uses the license-free ISM band: "European ISM" @ 868MHz or "American ISM" @ 915MHz

Use a simple wire antenna or spot for uFL or SMA radio connector

All radios are sold individually and can only talk to radios of the same part number. E.g. RFM69 900 MHz can only talk to RFM69 900 MHz, LoRa 433 MHz can only talk to LoRa 433, etc.

Each radio comes with some header, a 3.3V voltage regulator and levelshifter that can handle 3-5V DC power and logic so you can use it with 3V or 5V devices. Some soldering is required to attach the header. You will need to cut and solder on a small piece of wire (any solid or stranded core is fine) in order to create your antenna. Optionally you can pick up a uFL or SMA edge-mount connector and attach an external duck.

Check out our fine tutorial for wiring diagrams, example code, and more!

The Photon is a $19 tiny Wi-Fi development kit for creating connected projects and products for the Internet of Things. It's easy to use, it's powerful, and it's connected to the cloud.

The tools that make up the Photon's ecosystem (and come along with the board) are designed to let you build and create whether you're an embedded engineer, web developer, Arduino enthusiast or IoT entrepreneur. You'll be able to write your firmware in our web or local IDE, deploy it over the air, and build your web and mobile apps with ParticleJS and our Mobile SDK.

The board itself uses a Broadcom WICED Wi-Fi chip (one that can be found in Nest Protect, LIFX, and Amazon Dash) alongside a powerful STM32 ARM Cortex M3 microcontroller. It's like the Spark Core, but better! The WICED chipset is much faster than the original CC3000 in the 'Core and also supports SSL and Soft-AP mode.

This is the Photon with breadboard headers connected. We also have the Photon without headers.

If you're looking for a version with a breadboard and USB cable, click here for the Photon Starter Kit.

This incredibly small stereo amplifier is surprisingly powerful - able to deliver 2 x 3.7W channels into 3 ohm impedance speakers. Inside the miniature chip is a class D controller, able to run from 2.7V-5.5VDC. Since the amp is a class D, its incredibly efficient (over 90% efficient when driving an 8Ω speaker at over a Watt) - making it perfect for portable and battery-powered projects. It has built in thermal and over-current protection but we could barely tell it got hot. This board is a welcome upgrade to basic "LM386" amps!The inputs of the amplifier go through 1.0uF capacitors, so they are fully 'differential' - if you don't have differential outputs, simply tie the R- and L- to ground. The outputs are "Bridge Tied" - that means they connect directly to the outputs, no connection to ground. The output is a 360KHz square wave PWM that is then 'averaged out' by the speaker coil - the high frequencies are not heard. All the above means that you can't connect the output into another amplifier, it should drive the speakers directly.Comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout board with 1.0uF input capacitors. We also include header to plug it into a breadboard, 3.5mm screw-terminal blocks so you can easily attach/detach your speakers, and a 2x4 header + jumper to change the amplifier gain on the fly. You will be ready to rock in 15 minutes! Speakers are not included, use any 3ohm or greater impedance speakers. 

Output Power: 3.7W at 3Ω, 10% THD, 1.7W at 8Ω, 10% THD, with 5V Supply

Passes EMI limit unfiltered with up to 12 inches (30 cm) of speaker cable

High 83dB PSRR at 217Hz

Spread-Spectrum Modulation and Active Emissions Limiting

Five pin-selectable gains: 6dB, 9dB, 12dB, 15dB and 18dB. Select with a jumper or by setting the G and G' breakout pins (see schematic for breakout board showing gain pin settings for details)

Excellent click-and-pop suppression

Thermal and short-circuit/over-current protection

Low current draw: 2mA quiescent and 10uA in shutdown mode

Note: The terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black.

For precision temperature sensing, nothing beats a Platinum RTD. Resistance temperature detectors (RTDs) are temperature sensors that contain a resistor that changes resistance value as its temperature changes, basically a kind of thermistor. In this sensor, the resistor is actually a small strip of Platinum with a resistance of 100 ohms at 0°C, thus the name PT100. Compared to most NTC/PTC thermistors, the PT type of RTD is much most stable and precise (but also more expensive) PT100's have been used for many years to measure temperature in laboratory and industrial processes, and have developed a reputation for accuracy (better than thermocouples), repeatability, and stability. 

However, to get that precision and accuracy out of your PT100 RTD you must use an amplifier that is designed to read the low resistance. Better yet, have an amplifier that can automatically adjust and compensate for the resistance of the connecting wires. If you're looking for a great RTD sensor, today is your lucky day because we have a lovely Adafruit RTD Sensor Amplifier with the MAX31865 breakout for use with any 2, 3 or 4 wire PT100 RTD!

If you have a PT1000 RTD, please visit this page to purchase a version of this board with the reference resistor for 1000-ohm RTDs

We've carried various MAXIM thermocouple amplifiers and they're great - but thermocouples don't have the best accuracy or precision, for when the readings must be as good as can be. The MAX31865 handles all of your RTD needs, and can even compensate 3 or 4 wire RTDs for better accuracy. Connect to it with any microcontroller over SPI and read out the resistance ratio from the internal ADC. We put a 430Ω 0.1% resistor as a reference resistor on the breakout. We have some example code that will calculate the temperature based on the resistance for you.

We even made the breakout 5V compliant, with a 3.3V regulator and level shifting, so you can use it with any Arduino or microcontroller.

Each order comes with one assembled RTD amplifier breakout board. Also comes with two 2-pin terminal blocks (for connecting to the RTD sensor) and pin header (to plug into any breadboard or perfboard). A required PT100 RTD is not included! (But we stock them in the shop). Some soldering is required to solder the headers and terminal blocks to the breakout, but it's an easy task with soldering tools.

Please note: this does not include an RTD sensor! Also, the terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black

This incredibly small stereo amplifier is surprisingly powerful - able to deliver 2 x 2.1W channels into 4 ohm impedance speakers (@ 10% THD). Inside the miniature chip is a class D controller, able to run from 2.7V-5.5VDC. Since the amp is a class D, it's incredibly efficient (89% efficient when driving an 8Ω speaker at 1.5 Watt) - making it perfect for portable and battery-powered projects. It has built in thermal and over-current protection but we could barely tell it got hot. This board is a welcome upgrade to basic "LM386" amps!The inputs of the amplifier go through 1.0uF capacitors, so they are fully 'differential' - if you don't have differential outputs, simply tie the R- and L- to ground. The outputs are "Bridge Tied" - that means they connect directly to the outputs, no connection to ground. The output is a ~300KHz square wave PWM that is then 'averaged out' by the speaker coil - the high frequencies are not heard. All the above means that you can't connect the output into another amplifier, it should drive the speakers directly.Comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout board with 1.0uF input capacitors. We also include a dual mini DIP switch for setting the amplifier gain on the fly, 3.5mm screw-terminal blocks so you can easily attach/detach your speakers, and some header in case you want to plug it into a breadboard. You will be ready to rock in 15 minutes! Speakers are not included, use any 4 ohm or 8 ohm impedance speakers.

Output Power: 2.1W at 4Ω, 10% THD, 1.4W at 8Ω, 10% THD, with 5V Supply

PSRR: 77 dB typ @ 217 Hz with 6 dB gain

Designed for use without an output filter, when wires are kept at under 2"-4" long

Four pin-selectable gains: 6dB, 12dB, 18dB and 24dB. Select with the onboard switches or by setting the G0 and G1 breakout pins (see schematic for breakout board showing gain pin settings for details)

Excellent click-and-pop suppression

Thermal shutdown protection

Independent channel shutdown

Low current draw: typ 6mA quiescent and 1.5uA in shutdown mode

Check out the tutorial for more details!

Note: The terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black.

Stereo 2.8W Class D Audio Amplifier (8:55)

A mini class D with AGC and I2C control? Yes please! This incredibly small stereo amplifier is surprisingly powerful. It is able to deliver 2 x 2.8W channels into 4 ohm impedance speakers (@ 10% THD) and it has a i2c control interface as well as an AGC (automatic gain control) system to keep your audio from clipping or distorting.If you don't want to use I2C to control it, it does start up on with 6dB gain by default and the AGC set up for most music playing. We do suggest using it with a microcontroller to configure it, however, since its quite powerful. Settings are not stored in the chip, so you'll need to adjust any gain & AGC amplification settings every time the amp is powered up.Inside the miniature chip is a class D controller, able to run from 2.7V-5.5VDC. Since the amp is a class D, it's incredibly efficient (89% efficient when driving an 8Ω speaker at 1.5 Watt) - making it perfect for portable and battery-powered projects. It has built in thermal and over-current protection but we could barely tell if it got hot. This board is a welcome upgrade to basic "LM386" amps!The inputs of the amplifier go through 1.0uF capacitors, so they are fully 'differential' - if you don't have differential outputs, simply tie the R- and L- to ground. The outputs are "Bridge Tied" - that means they connect directly to the outputs, no connection to ground. The output is a ~300KHz square wave PWM that is then 'averaged out' by the speaker coil - the high frequencies are not heard. All the above means that you can't connect the output into another amplifier, it should drive the speakers directly.Comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout board with 1.0uF input capacitors. We also include 3.5mm screw-terminal blocks so you can easily attach/detach your speakers, and some header in case you want to plug it into a breadboard. Speakers are not included, use any 4 ohm or 8 ohm impedance speakers.Our awesome tutorial and Arduino library will let you set the AGC configuration (you can also just turn it off), max gain, and turn on/off the left & right channels all over I2C! You will be ready to rock in 20 minutes!

Note: The terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black.

Stereo 2.8W Class D Audio Amplifier - I2C Control AGC - TPA2016 (6:10)

Pump up the volume with this 20W stereo amplifier! This slim little board has a class D amplifier onboard that can drive 2 channels of 4-8 ohm impedance speakers at 20W each. Power it with 5-12VDC using the onboard DC power jack and plug stereo line level into the 3.5mm stereo headphone jack and jam out with ease. Since it's class D, its completely cool-running, no heat sinks are required and it's extremely efficient - up to 93% efficiency makes it great for portable or battery powered rigs.We like the MAX9744 amplifier at the heart of this board because its very easy to use, but it also has both analog and digital volume control capability. Use a single 1KΩ pot (we include one) to adjust volume analog-style. Or hook it up to your favorite microcontroller and send I2C commands to set 64-steps of volume amplification.Some great stats about the MAX9744:

Power from 4.5V-14V DC voltage

Up to 93% efficient (88-93% typical)

20mA quiescent current (or put into shutdown for 1uA quiescent)

Up to 29.5dB max gain

Use DC or AC coupled line-level input, up to 3Vpp

Filterless Spread-Spectrum Modulation LowersRadiated RF Emissions from Speaker Cables

20W Stereo Output (4Ω, VDD = 12V, THD+N = 10%)

Low 0.04% THD+N

Integrated Click-and-Pop Suppression

Short-Circuit and Thermal-Overload Protection

We took this lovely chip and wrapped it up into a breakout for you, with polarity-protection, jacks and terminal blocks, i2c level shifting, and a spot to solder in a volume pot.Each order comes with one MAX9744 breakout board with all surface-mount parts fully assembled and tested. We also include 3 x 2pin and 1 x 3pin terminal blocks, a 470uF power filter capacitor and 1KΩ trim pot. To use this board, a little soldering is required to attach the terminal blocks and other components, but its fairly easy and expect it should take less than 15 minutes. Check out our detailed tutorial for assembly instructions and overall usage

Note: The terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black.

This super small mono amplifier is surprisingly powerful - able to deliver up to 2.5 Watts into 4-8 ohm impedance speakers. Inside the miniature chip is a class D controller, able to run from 2.0V-5.5VDC. Since the amp is a class D, its very efficient (over 90% efficient when driving an 8Ω speaker at over half a Watt) - making it perfect for portable and battery-powered projects. It has built in thermal and over-current protection but we could barely tell it got hot. There's even a volume trim pot so you can adjust the volume on the board down from the default 24dB gain. This board is a welcome upgrade to basic "LM386" amps!The A+ and A- inputs of the amplifier go through 1.0uF capacitors, so they are fully 'differential' - if you don't have differential outputs, simply tie the Audio- pin  to ground. The output is "Bridge Tied" - that means the output pins connect directly to the speaker pins, no connection to ground. The output is a high frequency 250KHz square wave PWM that is then 'averaged out' by the speaker coil - the high frequencies are not heard. All the above means that you can't connect the output into another amplifier, it should drive the speakers directly.Comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout board. We also include header to plug it into a breadboard and a 3.5mm screw-terminal blocks so you can easily attach/detach your speaker. You will be ready to rock in 15 minutes! Speaker is not included, use any 4 ohm or greater impedance speaker.

Output Power: 2.5W at 4Ω, 10% THD, 1.5W at 8Ω, 10% THD, with 5.5V Supply

50dB PSRR at 1KHz

Filterless design, with ferrite bead + capacitors on output.

Fixed 24dB gain, onboard trim potentiometer for adjusting input volume.

Thermal and short-circuit/over-current protection

Low current draw: 4mA quiescent and 1uA in shutdown mode

Note: The terminal block included with your product may be blue or black.

This electret capsule microphone is the same one we use in our great microphone amplifier board. It contains a small vibrating element that will output a few milllivolts peak-to-peak. You will need an op-amp to amplify the signal, some chips are designed with the amplifier built in in which case you can wire it up directly.

This is an "omnidirectional" microphone, with -44dB sensitivity, and has 20-20KHz frequency response. You can plug it into a breadboard or perfboard or solder wires to the little wires sticking out the back.

Check out OpenMusicLab's great tutorial on Electret Microphones for a deeper look at how these sensors work. If you need an amplifier board, see our fully-assembled and tested mic amp board with adjustable gain.

Add an ear to your project with this well-designed electret microphone amplifier. This fully assembled and tested board comes with a 20-20KHz electret microphone soldered on. For the amplification, we use the Maxim MAX4466, an op-amp specifically designed for this delicate task! The amplifier has excellent power supply noise rejection, so this amplifier sounds really good and isn't nearly as noisy or scratchy as other mic amp breakouts we've tried!This breakout is best used for projects such as voice changers, audio recording/sampling, and audio-reactive projects that use FFT. On the back, we include a small trimmer pot to adjust the gain. You can set the gain from 25x to 125x. That's down to be about 200mVpp (for normal speaking volume about 6" away) which is good for attaching to something that expects 'line level' input without clipping, or up to about 1Vpp, ideal for reading from a microcontroller ADC. The output is rail-to-rail so if the sounds gets loud, the output can go up to 5Vpp!Using it is simple: connect GND to ground, VCC to 2.4-5VDC. For the best performance, use the "quietest" supply available (on an Arduino, this would be the 3.3V supply). The audio waveform will come out of the OUT pin. The output will have a DC bias of VCC/2 so when its perfectly quiet, the voltage will be a steady VCC/2 volts (it is DC coupled). If the audio equipment you're using requires AC coupled audio, place a 100uF capacitor between the output pin and the input of your device. If you're connecting to an audio amplifier that has differential inputs or includes decoupling capacitors, the 100uF cap is not required.The output pin is not designed to drive speakers or anything but the smallest in-ear headphones - you'll need an audio amplifier (such as our 3.7W stereo amp) if you want to connect the amp directly to speakers. If you're connecting to a microcontroller pin, you don't need an amplifier or decoupling capacitor - connect the OUT pin directly to the microcontroller ADC pin.For audio-reactive Arduino projects, we suggest using an FFT driver library (such as the one in this library) which can take the audio input and 'translate' it into frequencies. Also, check out this awesome Voice Changer project that uses this mic and an Adafruit Wave Shield!

If you're using with CircuitPython, this audio-reactive pendant project is pretty easy and works great with any CircuitPython board.

This low cost XBee USB Adapter Board comes in partially assembled kit form and provides a cost-effective solution to interfacing a PC or microcontroller to any XBee or XBee Pro module. The PC connection can be used to configure the XBee Module through Digi's X-CTU software. Works with XBee series 1 and 2 as well as Pro modules

By using this adapter board you can provide an easy interface to the XBee or XBee Pro modules by converting the 2mm pin spacing to breadboard friendly 0.100" spacing. The adapter board also provides a means to connect pluggable wires or solder connections and also provides mounting holes. Note: This product from Parallax uses genuine FTDI chips 10/23/14 (read more).

Features:

Provides an easy interface to configure XBee Modules using Digi's X-CTU software

Converts XBee 2mm pin spacing to 0.100" pin spacing

4 status indicator LEDs for Power, RSSI, Associate and mode (sleep/ON)

Provides easy pluggable wire or solder connections

Includes mounting holes

Pin-out compatible with our other XBee Adapter boards

Partially assembled kit form for flexible configuration

Kit Contents:

(1) XBee Adapter Board PCB

(2) 10-pin 2mm sockets - these are soldered into the board.

(1) 40-pin SIP header

Tools Required:

Soldering Iron

Solder

Flux

Diagonal cutters or Exacto knife

Key Specifications:

Power requirements: 5.0V from USB or VDD pin, 3.3V generated on-board

Communication: Serial pass-through to XBee module/USB to Host PC

Dimensions: 1.51 x 1.00 x 0.58 in* (38.3 x 25.6 x 14.8 mm*)

* when headers are attached

Operating temp range: -40 to +158F (-40 to +70C)

Works with all XBee & Pro modules!

You'll need a USB cable with a mini-b connector on it to plug this into your computer! We have such an item in the shop, or you can look around the house, they're often used for digital cameras.

This adapter board is designed to make adding wireless point-to-point or mesh networking easy. I looked at all the XBee adapter boards available and decided to design something better:

Onboard 3.3V regulator to cleanly power your XBee, up to 250mA

Level shifting circuitry means that its trivial to connect it to 5V circuitry such as an Arduino without risk of damage

Two LEDs, one for activity (RSSI), the other for power (Associate)

10-pin 2mm sockets included to protect the modem and allow easy swapping, upgrading or recycling

All the commonly used pins are brought out along the edge, making it easy to breadboard or wire up

Specifically created for use with an FTDI cable to connect to a computer via USB. This means that you can use or upgrade the adapter with a computer simply by plugging in a cable

Works with XBee series 1 and 2 as well as Series 1&2 Pro modules

The kit includes a PCB and all components necessary to build the adapter, unassembled. Tools are not included. This kit is really easy and will only take 15 minutes to build, even if you've never soldered before.

Please note that the adapter does not include an XBee module, they must be purchased separately. Check out this page for a comparison of all the XBee's available. If you want to connect this up to a computer's USB port you'll need a FTDI cable or FTDI friend (also not included)

For more information, check out the project page for instructions, documentation, tutorials and example code!

Feather is the new development board from Adafruit, and like its namesake it is thin, light, and lets you fly! We designed Feather to be a new standard for portable microcontroller cores.

This is the Adafruit Feather 32u4 Adalogger - our take on an 'all-in-one' datalogger (or data-reader) with built in USB and battery charging. Its an Adafruit Feather 32u4 with a microSD holder ready to rock! We have other boards in the Feather family, check'em out here

At the Feather 32u4's heart is at ATmega32u4 clocked at 8 MHz and at 3.3V logic, a chip setup we've had tons of experience with as it's the same as the Flora. This chip has 32K of flash and 2K of RAM, with built in USB so not only does it have a USB-to-Serial program & debug capability built in with no need for an FTDI-like chip, it can also act like a mouse, keyboard, USB MIDI device, etc.

To make it easy to use for portable projects, we added a connector for any of our 3.7V Lithium polymer batteries and built in battery charging. You don't need a battery, it will run just fine straight from the micro USB connector. But, if you do have a battery, you can take it on the go, then plug in the USB to recharge. The Feather will automatically switch over to USB power when its available. We also tied the battery thru a divider to an analog pin, so you can measure and monitor the battery voltage to detect when you need a recharge.

Here's some handy specs! Like all Feather 32u4's you get:

Measures 2.0" x 0.9" x 0.28" (51mm x 23mm x 8mm) without headers soldered in

Light as a (large?) feather - 5.1 grams

ATmega32u4 @ 8MHz with 3.3V logic/power

3.3V regulator with 500mA peak current output

USB native support, comes with USB bootloader and serial port debugging

You also get tons of pins - 20 GPIO pins

Hardware Serial, hardware I2C, hardware SPI support

7 x PWM pins

10 x analog inputs

Built in 100mA lipoly charger with charging status indicator LED

Pin #13 red LED for general purpose blinking

Power/enable pin

4 mounting holes

Reset button

The Feather 32u4 Adalogger uses the extra space left over to add MicroSD + a green LED:

Pin #8 green LED for your blinking pleasure

MicroSD card holder for adding as much storage as you could possibly want, for reading or writing.

Comes fully assembled and tested, with a USB bootloader that lets you quickly use it with the Arduino IDE. We also toss in some header so you can solder it in and plug into a solderless breadboard. Lipoly battery, MicroSD card and USB cable not included (but we do have lots of options in the shop if you'd like!)

Check out our tutorial for all sorts of details, including schematics, files, IDE instructions, and more!

Feather is the new development board from Adafruit, and like its namesake it is thin, light, and lets you fly! We designed Feather to be a new standard for portable microcontroller cores. This is the Adafruit Feather M0 WiFi w/ATWINC1500 - our take on an 'all-in-one' Arduino-compatible + high speed, reliable WiFi with built in USB and battery charging. Its an Adafruit Feather M0 with a WiFi module, ready to rock! We have other boards in the Feather family, check'em out here.

Connect your Feather to the Internet with this fine new FCC-certified WiFi module from Atmel. This 802.11bgn-capable WiFi module is the best new thing for networking your devices, with built-in low-power management capabilites, Soft-AP, SSL TLS 1.2 support and rock solid performance. We were running our adafruit.io MQTT demo for a full weekend straight with no hiccups (it would have run longer but we had to go to work, so we unplugged it). This module is very fast & easy to use in comparison to other WiFi modules we've used in the past.

This module works with 802.11b, g, or n networks & supports WEP, WPA and WPA2 encryption.  You can connect to your own WiFi networks or create your own with "Soft AP" mode, where it becomes its own access point (we have an example of it creating a webserver that you can then control the Arduino's pins). You can clock it as fast as 12MHz for speedy, reliable packet streaming. And scanning/connecting to networks is very fast, just a second or two.

You might be wondering why use this when you can get a HUZZAH Feather? Well, you get:

A highly-capable Cortex M0+ processor with ton more I/O pins, lots of 12-bit ADCs, a 10-bit DAC, 6 total SERCOMs that can each do SPI, I2C or UART (3 are used by the existing interfaces, leaving you 3), plenty of timers, PWMs, DMA, native USB, and more (check out the Datasheet)

The ATWINC has much lower power usage, about 12mA for the WINC & 10mA for the ATSAMD21 with auto-powermanagement on for the WiFi and no power management for the ARM. With manual power management, you can get the WiFi module to down to ~2mA by putting it to sleep.

This is compared to the ESP's ~70mA average current draw, and whose deep sleep mode requires a WDT reset.

We also found that we could stream more reliably (less 'bursty') with the ATWINC, although altogether the ESP has higher throughput.

You also dont have to 'yield' all the time to the WiFi core, since its a separate chip. You get full reign of the processor and timing

Of course, both WiFi-capable Feathers have their strengths and tradeoffs, & we love both equally!

At the Feather M0's heart is an ATSAMD21G18 ARM Cortex M0 processor, clocked at 48 MHz and at 3.3V logic, the same one used in the new Arduino Zero. This chip has a whopping 256K of FLASH (8x more than the Atmega328 or 32u4) and 32K of RAM (16x as much)! This chip comes with built in USB so it has USB-to-Serial program & debug capability built in with no need for an FTDI-like chip. For advanced users who are comfortable with ASF, the SWDIO/SWCLK pins are available on the bottom, and when connected to a CMSIS-DAP debugger can be used to use Atmel Studio for debugging.

To make it easy to use for portable projects, we added a connector for any of our 3.7V Lithium polymer batteries and built in battery charging. You don't need to use a battery, it will run just fine straight from the micro USB connector. But, if you do have a battery, you can take it on the go, then plug in the USB to recharge. The Feather will automatically switch over to USB power when its available. We also tied the battery through a divider to an analog pin, so you can measure and monitor the battery voltage to detect when you need a recharge.

Here's some handy specs! Like all Feather M0's you get:

Measures 2.1" x 0.9" x 0.3" (53.65mm x 23mm x 8mm) without headers soldered in. Note it is 0.1" longer than most Feathers

Light as a (large?) feather - 6.1 grams

ATSAMD21G18 @ 48MHz with 3.3V logic/power

256KB FLASH, 32KB SRAM, No EEPROM

3.3V regulator (AP2112K-3.3) with 600mA peak current output, WiFi can draw 300mA peak during xmit

USB native support, comes with USB bootloader and serial port debugging

You also get tons of pins - 20 GPIO pins

Hardware Serial, hardware I2C, hardware SPI support

8 x PWM pins

10 x analog inputs

1 x analog output

Built in 200mA lipoly charger with charging status indicator LED

Pin #13 red LED for general purpose blinking

Power/enable pin

4 mounting holes

Reset button

Comes fully assembled and tested, with a USB bootloader that lets you quickly use it with the Arduino IDE. We also toss in some header so you can solder it in and plug into a solderless breadboard. Lipoly battery and MicroUSB cable not included (but we do have lots of options in the shop if you'd like!)

Note: This version does not come with an onboard antenna, you will need a uFL connector antenna such as 2.4GHz Mini Flexible WiFi Antenna - not included! We have a version with on-board antenna as well

Check out our tutorial for all sorts of details, including pinouts, power management, Arduino IDE setup and more!

This is the Adafruit Feather M0 RFM95 LoRa Radio (900MHz). We call these RadioFruits, our take on an microcontroller with a "Long Range (LoRa)" packet radio transceiver with built in USB and battery charging. Its an Adafruit Feather M0 with a 900MHz radio module cooked in! Great for making wireless networks that are more flexible than Bluetooth LE and without the high power requirements of WiFi.

Feather is the new development board from Adafruit, and like its namesake it is thin, light, and lets you fly! We designed Feather to be a new standard for portable microcontroller cores.We have other boards in the Feather family, check'em out here.

This is the 900 MHz radio version, which can be used for either 868MHz or 915MHz transmission/reception - the exact radio frequency is determined when you load the software since it can be tuned around dynamically. We also sell a 433MHz version of the same radio chipset!

At the Feather M0's heart is an ATSAMD21G18 ARM Cortex M0 processor, clocked at 48 MHz and at 3.3V logic, the same one used in the new Arduino Zero. This chip has a whopping 256K of FLASH (8x more than the Atmega328 or 32u4) and 32K of RAM (16x as much)! This chip comes with built in USB so it has USB-to-Serial program & debug capability built in with no need for an FTDI-like chip.

To make it easy to use for portable projects, we added a connector for any of our 3.7V Lithium polymer batteries and built in battery charging. You don't need a battery, it will run just fine straight from the micro USB connector. But, if you do have a battery, you can take it on the go, then plug in the USB to recharge. The Feather will automatically switch over to USB power when its available. We also tied the battery thru a divider to an analog pin, so you can measure and monitor the battery voltage to detect when you need a recharge.

Here's some handy specs! Like all Feather M0's you get:

Measures 2.0" x 0.9" x 0.3" (51mm x 23mm x 8mm) without headers soldered in

Light as a (large?) feather - 5.8 grams

ATSAMD21G18 @ 48MHz with 3.3V logic/power

No EEPROM

3.3V regulator with 500mA peak current output

USB native support, comes with USB bootloader and serial port debugging

You also get tons of pins - 20 GPIO pins

Hardware Serial, hardware I2C, hardware SPI support

8 x PWM pins

10 x analog inputs

1 x analog output

Built in 100mA lipoly charger with charging status indicator LED

Pin #13 red LED for general purpose blinking

Power/enable pin

4 mounting holes

Reset button

This Feather M0 LoRa Radio uses the extra space left over to add an RFM9x LoRa 868/915 MHz radio module. These radios are not good for transmitting audio or video, but they do work quite well for small data packet transmission when you need more range than 2.4 GHz (BT, BLE, WiFi, ZigBee).

SX127x LoRa® based module with SPI interface

Packet radio with ready-to-go Arduino libraries

Uses the license-free ISM bands (ITU "Europe" @ 433MHz and ITU "Americas" @ 900MHz)

+5 to +20 dBm up to 100 mW Power Output Capability (power output selectable in software)

~300uA during full sleep, ~120mA peak during +20dBm transmit, ~40mA during active radio listening.

Simple wire antenna or spot for uFL connector

Our initial tests with default library settings: over 1.2mi/2Km line-of-sight with wire quarter-wave antennas. (With setting tweaking and directional antennas, 20Km is possible).

Comes fully assembled and tested, with a USB bootloader that lets you quickly use it with the Arduino IDE. We also toss in some headers so you can solder it in and plug into a solderless breadboard. You will need to cut and solder on a small piece of wire (any solid or stranded core is fine) in order to create your antenna. Lipoly battery and USB cable not included but we do have lots of options in the shop if you'd like!

Feather is the new development board from Adafruit, and like its namesake it is thin, light, and lets you fly! We designed Feather to be a new standard for portable microcontroller cores.

This is the Adafruit Feather 32u4 Bluefruit - our take on an 'all-in-one' Arduino-compatible + Bluetooth Low Energy with built in USB and battery charging. Its an Adafruit Feather 32u4 with a BTLE module, ready to rock! We have other boards in the Feather family, check'em out here.

Bluetooth Low Energy is the hottest new low-power, 2.4GHz spectrum wireless protocol. In particular, its the only wireless protocol that you can use with iOS without needing special certification and it's supported by all modern smart phones. This makes it excellent for use in portable projects that will make use of an iOS or Android phone or tablet. It also is supported in Mac OS X and Windows 8+.

We have quite a few BTLE-capable Feathers (it's a popular protocol!) so check out our BT Feather guide for some comparison information.

At the Feather 32u4's heart is at ATmega32u4 clocked at 8 MHz and at 3.3V logic, a chip setup we've had tons of experience with as it's the same as the Flora. This chip has 32K of flash and 2K of RAM, with built in USB so not only does it have a USB-to-Serial program & debug capability built in with no need for an FTDI-like chip, it can also act like a mouse, keyboard, USB MIDI device, etc.

To make it easy to use for portable projects, we added a connector for any of our 3.7V Lithium polymer batteries and built in battery charging. You don't need a battery, it will run just fine straight from the micro USB connector. But, if you do have a battery, you can take it on the go, then plug in the USB to recharge. The Feather will automatically switch over to USB power when its available. We also tied the battery thru a divider to an analog pin, so you can measure and monitor the battery voltage to detect when you need a recharge.

Here's some handy specs! Like all Feather 32u4's you get:

Measures 2.0" x 0.9" x 0.28" (51mm x 23mm x 8mm) without headers soldered in

Light as a (large?) feather - 5.7 grams

ATmega32u4 @ 8MHz with 3.3V logic/power

3.3V regulator with 500mA peak current output

USB native support, comes with USB bootloader and serial port debugging

You also get tons of pins - 20 GPIO pins

Hardware Serial, hardware I2C, hardware SPI support

7 x PWM pins

10 x analog inputs

Built in 100mA lipoly charger with charging status indicator LED

Pin #13 red LED for general purpose blinking

Power/enable pin

4 mounting holes

Reset button

The Feather 32u4 Bluefruit LE uses the extra space left over to add our excellent Bluefruit BTLE module + two status indicator LEDs.

The Power of Bluefruit LE

The Bluefruit LE module is an nRF51822 chipset from Nordic, programmed with multi-function code that can do quite a lot! For most people, they'll be very happy to use the standard Nordic UART RX/TX connection profile. In this profile, the Bluefruit acts as a data pipe, that can 'transparently' transmit back and forth from your iOS or Android device. You can use our iOS App or Android App, or write your own to communicate with the UART service.

The board is capable of much more than just sending strings over the air!  Thanks to an easy to learn AT command set, you have full control over how the device behaves, including the ability to define and manipulate your own GATT Services and Characteristics, or change the way that the device advertises itself for other Bluetooth Low Energy devices to see. You can also use the AT commands  to query the die temperature, check the battery voltage, and more, check the connection RSSI or MAC address, and tons more. Really, way too long to list here!

Use the Bluefruit App to get your project started

Using our Bluefruit iOS App or Android App, you can quickly get your project prototyped by using your iOS or Android phone/tablet as a controller. We have a color picker, quaternion/accelerometer/gyro/magnetometer or location (GPS), and an 8-button control game pad. This data can be read over BLE and piped into the ATmega32u4 chip for processing & control

You can do a lot more too!

The Bluefruit can also act like an HID Keyboard (for devices that support BLE HID)

Can become a BLE Heart Rate Monitor (a standard profile for BLE) - you just need to add the pulse-detection circuitry

Turn it into a UriBeacon, the Google standard for Bluetooth LE beacons. Just power it and the 'Friend will bleep out a URL to any nearby devices with the UriBeacon app installed.

Built in over-the-air bootloading capability so we can keep you updated with the hottest new firmware. Use any Android or iOS device to get updates and install them. This will update the native code on the BLE module, to add new wireless capabilities, not program the ATmega chip.

Comes fully assembled and tested, with a USB bootloader that lets you quickly use it with the Arduino IDE. We also toss in some header so you can solder it in and plug into a solderless breadboard. Lipoly battery and MicroUSB cable not included (but we do have lots of options in the shop if you'd like!)

Check out our tutorial for all sorts of details, including schematics, files, IDE instructions, and more!

Feather is the new development board from Adafruit, and like its namesake it is thin, light, and lets you fly! We designed Feather to be a new standard for portable microcontroller cores.

This is the Adafruit Feather M0 Bluefruit LE - our take on an 'all-in-one' Arduino-compatible + Bluetooth Low Energy with built in USB and battery charging. It's an Adafruit Feather M0 with a BTLE module, ready to rock! We have other boards in the Feather family, check'em out here.

Bluetooth Low Energy is a hot, low-power, 2.4GHz spectrum wireless protocol. In particular, it's the only wireless protocol that you can use with iOS without needing special certification, and it's supported by all modern smart phones. This makes it excellent for use in portable projects that will make use of an iOS or Android phone or tablet. It also is supported in Mac OS X and Windows 8+.

We have quite a few BTLE-capable Feathers (it's a popular protocol!) so check out our BT Feather guide for some comparison information.

At the Feather M0's heart is an ATSAMD21G18 ARM Cortex M0 processor, clocked at 48 MHz and at 3.3V logic, the same one used in the new Arduino Zero. This chip has a whopping 256K of FLASH (8x more than the Atmega328 or 32u4) and 32K of RAM (16x as much)! This chip comes with built in USB so it has USB-to-Serial program & debug capability built in with no need for an FTDI-like chip.

To make it easy to use for portable projects, we added a connector for any of our 3.7V Lithium polymer batteries and built in battery charging. You don't need a battery, it will run just fine straight from the micro USB connector. But, if you do have a battery, you can take it on the go, then plug in the USB to recharge. The Feather will automatically switch over to USB power when its available. We also tied the battery thru a divider to an analog pin, so you can measure and monitor the battery voltage to detect when you need a recharge.

Here's some handy specs! Like all Feather M0's you get:

Measures 2.0" x 0.9" x 0.28" (51mm x 23mm x 8mm) without headers soldered in

Light as a (large?) feather - 5.7 grams

ATSAMD21G18 @ 48MHz with 3.3V logic/power

No EEPROM

3.3V regulator with 500mA peak current output

USB native support, comes with USB bootloader and serial port debugging

You also get tons of pins - 20 GPIO pins

Hardware Serial, hardware I2C, hardware SPI support

8 x PWM pins

10 x analog inputs

1 x analog output

Built in 100mA lipoly charger with charging status indicator LED

Pin #13 red LED for general purpose blinking

Power/enable pin

4 mounting holes

Reset button

The Feather M0 Bluefruit LE uses the extra space left over to add our excellent Bluefruit BTLE module + two status indicator LEDs.

The Power of Bluefruit LE

The Bluefruit LE module is an nRF51822 chipset from Nordic, programmed with multi-function code that can do quite a lot! For most people, they'll be very happy to use the standard Nordic UART RX/TX connection profile. In this profile, the Bluefruit acts as a data pipe, that can 'transparently' transmit back and forth from your iOS or Android device. You can use our iOS App or Android App, or write your own to communicate with the UART service.

The board is capable of much more than just sending strings over the air!  Thanks to an easy to learn AT command set, you have full control over how the device behaves, including the ability to define and manipulate your own GATT Services and Characteristics, or change the way that the device advertises itself for other Bluetooth Low Energy devices to see. You can also use the AT commands  to query the die temperature, check the battery voltage, and more, check the connection RSSI or MAC address, and tons more. Really, way too long to list here!

Use the Bluefruit App to get your project started

Using our Bluefruit iOS App or Android App, you can quickly get your project prototyped by using your iOS or Android phone/tablet as a controller. We have a color picker, quaternion/accelerometer/gyro/magnetometer or location (GPS), and an 8-button control game pad. This data can be read over BLE and piped into the ATSAMD21G18 chip for processing & control

You can do a lot more too!

The Bluefruit can also act like an HID Keyboard (for devices that support BLE HID)

Can become a BLE Heart Rate Monitor (a standard profile for BLE) - you just need to add the pulse-detection circuitry

Turn it into a UriBeacon, the Google standard for Bluetooth LE beacons. Just power it and the 'Friend will bleep out a URL to any nearby devices with the UriBeacon app installed.

Built in over-the-air bootloading capability so we can keep you updated with the hottest new firmware. Use any Android or iOS device to get updates and install them. This will update the native code on the BLE module, to add new wireless capabilities, not program the ATmega chip.

Comes fully assembled and tested, with a USB bootloader that lets you quickly use it with the Arduino IDE. We also toss in some header so you can solder it in and plug into a solderless breadboard. Lipoly battery and MicroUSB cable not included (but we do have lots of options in the shop if you'd like!)

Check out our tutorial for all sorts of details, including schematics, files, IDE instructions, and more!

Feather is the new development board from Adafruit, and like its namesake it is thin, light, and lets you fly! We designed Feather to be a new standard for portable microcontroller cores.

This is the Adafruit Feather M0 Adalogger - our take on an 'all-in-one' Cortex M0 datalogger (or data-reader) with built in USB and battery charging. Its an Adafruit Feather M0 with a microSD holder ready to rock! We have other boards in the Feather family, check'em out here

At the Feather M0's heart is an ATSAMD21G18 ARM Cortex M0 processor, clocked at 48 MHz and at 3.3V logic, the same one used in the new Arduino Zero. This chip has a whopping 256K of FLASH (8x more than the Atmega328 or 32u4) and 32K of RAM (16x as much)! This chip comes with built in USB so it has USB-to-Serial program & debug capability built in with no need for an FTDI-like chip.

To make it easy to use for portable projects, we added a connector for any of our 3.7V Lithium polymer batteries and built in battery charging. You don't need a battery, it will run just fine straight from the micro USB connector. But, if you do have a battery, you can take it on the go, then plug in the USB to recharge. The Feather will automatically switch over to USB power when its available. We also tied the battery thru a divider to an analog pin, so you can measure and monitor the battery voltage to detect when you need a recharge.

Here's some handy specs! Like all Feather M0's you get:

Measures 2.0" x 0.9" x 0.28" (51mm x 23mm x 8mm) without headers soldered in

Light as a (large?) feather - 5.3 grams

ATSAMD21G18 @ 48MHz with 3.3V logic/power

256KB of FLASH + 32KB of RAM

No EEPROM

3.3V regulator with 500mA peak current output

USB native support, comes with USB bootloader and serial port debugging

You also get tons of pins - 20 GPIO pins

Hardware Serial, hardware I2C, hardware SPI support

8 x PWM pins

10 x analog inputs

Built in 100mA lipoly charger with charging status indicator LED

Pin #13 red LED for general purpose blinking

Power/enable pin

4 mounting holes

Reset button

The Feather M0 Adalogger uses the extra space left over to add MicroSD + a green LED:

Pin #8 green LED for your blinking pleasure

MicroSD card holder for adding as much storage as you could possibly want, for reading or writing.

Comes fully assembled and tested, with a USB bootloader that lets you quickly use it with the Arduino IDE. We also toss in some header so you can solder it in and plug into a solderless breadboard. Lipoly battery, MicroSD card and USB cable not included (but we do have lots of options in the shop if you'd like!)

Check out our tutorial for all sorts of details, including schematics, files, IDE instructions, and more!

Say "Hi!" to the WICED Feather! Perfect for your next Internet connected project, with a powerful processor and WiFi core that can take anything you throw at it - this Feather is WIC(K)ED AWESOME!

Feather is the new development board from Adafruit, and like its namesake it is thin, light, and lets you fly! We designed Feather to be a new standard for portable microcontroller cores. This is the Adafruit WICED Feather - it's our most powerful Feather yet! We have other boards in the Feather family, check'em out here.

The WICED Feather is based on Cypress (formerly Broadcom) WICED (Wireless Internet Connectivity for Embedded Devices) platform, and is paired up with a powerful STM32F205 ARM Cortex M3 processor running at 120MHz, with support for TLS 1.2 to access sites and web services safely and securely.

We spent a lot of time adding support for this processor and WiFi chipset to the Arduino IDE you know and love. Programming doesn't rely on any online or closed toolsets to build, flash or run your code. You write your code in the Arduino IDE using the same standard libraries you've always used (Wire, SPI, etc.), compile locally, and the device is flashed directly from the IDE over USB.

Since the WICED Feather is based on the standard Adafruit Feather layout, you also have instant access to a variety of Feather Wings, as well as all the usual standard breakouts available from Adafruit or other vendors.

After more than a year of full time effort in the making, we think it's the best and most flexible WiFi development board out there, and the easiest way to get your TCP/IP-based project off the ground without sacrificing flexibility or security. We even cooked in some built-in libraries in the WiFi core, such as TCP client and Server, HTTP client and server, and MQTT client (with easy Adafruit IO interfacing). It can even work with Amazon AWS IoT!

Please note: this is a really cool product but it's also very advanced and there may be firmware updates, tweaks and fixes as we have more people use it. For that reason we are calling this the Developer Edition! This chipset is not identical to the Arduino standard-supported Atmega series and many libraries that are written specifically for AVR will not compile or work with the STM32!

The WICED Feather has the following key features:

Measures 2.0" x 0.9" x 0.28" (51mm x 23mm x 8mm) without headers soldered in

Light as a (large?) feather - 5.7 grams

STM32F205RG 120MHz ARM Cortex M3 MCU

BCM43362 802.11b/G/N radio

128KB SRAM and 1024KB flash memory (total)

16KB SRAM and 128KB flash available for user code

16MBit (2MB) SPI flash for additional data storage

Built in Real Time Clock (RTC) with optional external battery supply

Hardware SPI and I2C (including clock-stretching)

12 standard GPIO pins, with additional GPIOs available via SPI, UART and I2C pins

7 standard PWM outputs, with additional outputs available via SPI, UART and I2C pins

Up to eight 12-bit ADC inputs

Two 12-bit DAC outputs (Pin A4)

Up to 3 UARTs (including one with full HW flow control)

TLS 1.2 support to access secure HTTPS and TCP servers

On board single-cell LIPO charging and battery monitoring

Fast and easy firmware updates to keep your module up to date

Based on the excellent community-supported Maple project

Comes fully assembled and tested, with a USB bootloader that lets you quickly use it with the Arduino IDE. We also toss in some header so you can solder it in and plug into a solderless breadboard. Lipoly battery and MicroUSB cable not included (but we do have lots of options in the shop if you'd like!)

Our learn guide will show you everything you need to know to get your projects online, and connected to the outside world!

Wireless is wonderful, but sometimes you want the strong reliability of a wire. If your Feather board is going to be part of a permanent installation, this Ethernet FeatherWing will let you add quick and easy wired Internet. Just plug in a standard ethernet cable, and run the Ethernet2 library for cross-platform networking. Works with all/any of our Feather boards!

Ethernet is a tried-and-true networking standard. It's supported by every hub and switch, and because there's a physical connection you don't have to noodle around with SSIDs, passwords, authentication schemes or antennas. It works great with any of our Feathers, the WIZ5500 chip communicates over SPI plus a single CS pin. The Arduino Ethernet2 library works great, and within a few seconds after connecting, will do the DHCP setup for you. As a nice extra, the RJ-45 jack has both link and activity lights that will light/blink to let you know the current connection status.

Note this product does not have PoE support, but you can add it by the addition of a PoE splitter. We have a version that provides 5V at 2.4 Amp max into a micro USB connector  just plug in your Feather to be powered over the micro USB connection.

Each order comes with one assembled and tested FeatherWing, plus some header. You will need to solder in the header yourself but its a quick task. Check out our tutorial for code, schematics, files and more!

Add short-hop wireless to your Feather with these RadioFruit Featherwings. These add-ons for any Feather board will let you integrate packetized radio (with the RFM69 radio) or LoRa radio (with the RFM9x's). These radios are good options for kilometer-range radio, and paired with one of our WiFi, cellular or Bluetooth Feathers, will let you bridge from 433/900 MHz to the Internet or your mobile device.

These radio modules come in four variants (two modulation types and two frequencies) The RFM69's are easiest to work with, and are well known and understood. The LoRa radios are exciting, longer-range and more powerful but also more expensive.

RFM69 @ 433 MHz - basic packetized FSK/GFSK/MSK/GMSK/OOK radio at 433 MHz for use in Europe ITU 1 license-free ISM, or for amateur use with restrictions (check your local  amateur regulations!)

RFM69 @ 900 MHz - basic packetized FSK/GFSK/MSK/GMSK/OOK radio at 868 or 915 MHz for use in Americas ITU 2 license-free ISM, or for amateur use with restrictions (check your amateur regulations!)

RFM98 @ 433 MHz - LoRa capable radio at 433 MHz for use in Europe ITU 1 license-free ISM, or for amateur use with restrictions (check your local amateur regulations!)

RFM95 @ 900 MHz - LoRa capable radio at 868 or 915 MHz for use in Americas ITU 2 license-free ISM, or for amateur use with restrictions (check your local amateur regulations!) 

This is the LoRa 9x @ 900 MHz radio version, which can be used for either 868MHz or 915MHz transmission/reception - the exact radio frequency is determined when you load the software since it can be tuned around dynamically. These are +20dBm LoRa packet radios that have a special radio modulation that is not compatible with the RFM69s but can go much much  farther. They can easily go 2 Km line of sight using simple wire antennas, or up to 20Km with directional antennas and settings tweakings

SX127x LoRa® based module with SPI interface

Packet radio with ready-to-go Arduino libraries

Uses the license-free ISM bands

+5 to +20 dBm up to 100 mW Power Output Capability (power output selectable in software)

~300uA during full sleep, ~120mA peak during +20dBm transmit, ~40mA during active radio listening.

Our initial tests with default library settings: over 1.2mi/2Km line-of-sight with wire quarter-wave antennas. (With setting tweaking and directional antennas, 20Km is possible).

Currently tested to work with the Feather ESP8266, Teensy 3 Feather, Feather 32u4 and Feather M0 series, some wiring is required to configure the FeatherWing for the chipset you plan to use.

All radios are sold individually and can only talk to radios of the same part number. E.g. RFM69 900 MHz can only talk to RFM69 900 MHz, LoRa 433 MHz can only talk to LoRa 433, etc.

Each radio 'Wing comes with some header. Some soldering is required to attach the header. You will need to cut and solder on a small piece of wire (any solid or stranded core is fine) in order to create your antenna. Optionally you can pick up a uFL or SMA edge-mount connector and attach an external duck.

A Feather board without ambition is a Feather board without FeatherWings! This is the DS3231 Precision RTC FeatherWing: it adds an extremely accurate I2C-integrated Real Time Clock (RTC) with a Temperature Compensated Crystal Oscillator (TCXO)  to any Feather main board. This RTC is the most precise you can get in a small, low power package. Using our Feather Stacking Headers or Feather Female Headers you can connect a FeatherWing on top of your Feather board and let the board take flight!

Check out our range of Feather boards here.

Most RTCs use an external 32kHz timing crystal that is used to keep time with low current draw. And that's all well and good, but those crystals have slight drift, particularly when the temperature changes (the temperature changes the oscillation frequency very very very slightly but it does add up!) This RTC is in a beefy package because the crystal is inside the chip! And right next to the integrated crystal is a temperature sensor. That sensor compensates for the frequency changes by adding or removing clock ticks so that the timekeeping stays on schedule.

With a CR1220 12mm coin cell plugged into the top of the FeatherWing, you can get years of precision timekeeping, even when main power is lost. Great for datalogging and clocks, or anything where you need to really know the time.

A CR1220 coin cell is required to use the battery-backup capabilities! We don't include one by default, to make shipping easier for those abroad, but we do stock them so pick one up or use any CR1220 you have handy.

Our tutorial for the DS3231 breakout has all the library and example code you need to get started, works with any and all of our Feathers using either Arduino or CircuitPython

A Feather board without ambition is a Feather board without FeatherWings! This is the NeoPixel FeatherWing, a 4x8 RGB LED Add-on For All Feather Boards! Using our Feather Stacking Headers or Feather Female Headers you can connect a FeatherWing on top or bottom of your Feather board and make your Feather board strut like a peacock at a rave.

Put on your sunglasses before staring into these 32 configurable eye-blistering RGB LEDs. Arranged in a 4x8 matrix, each pixel is individually addressable. Only one pin is required to control all the LEDs. On the bottom we have jumpers for the DIN line to any of the I/O pins on a Feather.  Works with any/all of our Feathers! You can cut the default jumper trace and use any pin you like. (In particular, the default pin for Feather Huzzah ESP8266 must be moved, try pin #15!)

To make it easy to start, the LEDs are by default powered from either the USB power line or Battery power line, whichever is higher. Two Schottky diodes are used to switch between the two. This power arrangement is able to handle 1 Amp of constant current draw and maybe 2A peak, so not a good way to make a flashlight. It's better for colorful effects.

A level-up shifter converts the 3.3V logic of the Feather to the power line voltage. If, say, you need MORE blinky, you can chain these together. For the second Wing, connect the DIN connection to the first Wing's DOUT. Also connect a ground pin together and power with an independant 5V supply to keep from loading the power supply too much.

Check out our tutorial for pinouts, usage, and more!

Our detailed NeoPixel Uberguide has everything you need to use NeoPixels in any shape and size. Including ready-to-go library & example code for the Arduino UNO/Duemilanove/Diecimila, Flora/Micro/Leonardo, Trinket/Gemma, Arduino Due & Arduino Mega/ADK (all versions)

Check out our range of Feather boards here.

A Feather board without ambition is a Feather board without FeatherWings! This is the FeatherWing OLED: it adds a 128x32 monochrome OLED plus 3 user buttons to any Feather main board. Using our Feather Stacking Headers or Feather Female Headers you can connect a FeatherWing on top of your Feather board and let the board take flight!

These displays are small, only about 1" diagonal, but very readable due to the high contrast of an OLED display. This screen is made of 128x32 individual white OLED pixels and because the display makes its own light, no backlight is required. This reduces the power required to run the OLED and is why the display has such high contrast; we really like this miniature display for its crispness! We also toss on a reset button and three mini tactile buttons called A B and C so you can add a mini user interface to your feather.

Tested working with all Feather boards. The OLED uses only the two I2C pins on the Feather, and you can pretty much stack it with any other FeatherWing, even ones that use I2C since that is a shared bus. To use, Check out our tutorial ! It has schematics, datasheets, files, and code examples.

Check out our range of Feather boards here.

One segment? No way dude! 7-Segments for life!

A Feather board without ambition is a Feather board without FeatherWings! This is the Adafruit 4-Digit 7-Segment LED Matrix Display FeatherWing! This 7-segment FeatherWing backpack makes it really easy to add a 4-digit numeric display with decimal points and even 'second colon dots' for making a clock.

This version does not come with an LED matrix. Its also available in combo packs of Blue, Green, Red, White, or Yellow which we recommend since you'll know you have a working LED matrix. Not guaranteed to work with any other 7-segment modules.

7-Segment Matrices like these are 'multiplexed' - so to control all the seven-segment LEDs you need 14 pins. That's a lot of pins, and there are driver chips like the MAX7219 that can control a matrix for you but there's a lot of wiring to set up and they take up a ton of space. Here at Adafruit we feel your pain! After all, wouldn't it be awesome if you could control a matrix without tons of wiring? That's where these LED Matrix FeatherWings come in!

The LEDs themselves do not connect to the Feather. Instead, a matrix driver chip (HT16K33) does the multiplexing for you. The Feather simply sends i2c commands to the chip to tell it what LEDs to light up and it is handled for you. This takes a lot of the work and pin-requirements off the Feather. Since it uses only I2C for control, it works with any Feather and can share the I2C pins for other sensors or displays.

The product kit comes with:

A fully tested and assembled Adafruit 4-Digit 7-Segment LED Matrix Display FeatherWing

Two 16-pin headers

A bit of soldering is required to attach the matrix onto the FeatherWing but its very easy to do and only takes about 5 minutes!  Note: Feather board and seven-segment display are not included, but we have lots available in the shop.

Check out our detailed tutorial for pinouts, assembly, Arduino and CircuitPython usage, and more!

A Feather board without ambition is a Feather board without FeatherWings! This is the 8-Channel PWM or Servo​ FeatherWing, you can add 8 x 12-bit PWM outputs to your Feather board. Using our Feather Stacking Headers or Feather Female Headers you can connect a FeatherWing on top or bottom of your Feather board and let the board take flight!

You want to make a cool robot, maybe a hexapod walker, or maybe just a piece of art with a lot of moving parts. Or maybe you want to drive a lot of LEDs with precise PWM output. What now? You could give up OR you could just get our handy PWM and Servo FeatherWing. It's a lot like our popular PWM/Servo Shield but with half the channels & squished into a nice small portable size and works with any of our Feather boards.

Since the FeatherWing only uses the I2C (SDA & SCL pins), it works with any and all Feathers! You can stack it with any other FeatherWing or with itself (just make sure you have each wing with a unique I2C address) Check out our range of Feather boards here.

Specs:

There's an I2C-controlled PWM driver with a built in clock. That means that, unlike the TLC5940 family, you do not need to continuously send it signal tying up your microcontroller, its completely free running!

It is 5V compliant, which means you can control it from a 3.3V Feather and still safely drive up to 6V outputs (this is good for when you want to control white or blue LEDs with 3.4+ forward voltages)

6 address select pins so you can stack up to 62 of these on a single i2c bus, a total of 992 outputs - that's a lot of servos or LEDs

Adjustable frequency PWM up to about 1.6 KHz

12-bit resolution for each output - for servos, that means about 4us resolution at 60Hz update rate

Configurable push-pull or open-drain output

We wrapped up this lovely chip into a FeatherWing with a couple nice extras:

Terminal block for power input (or you can use the 0.1" breakouts on the side)

Reverse polarity protection on the terminal block input

Green power-good LED

Two groups of 4 outputs on either side, 8 total.

Stackable design. You'll need to pick up stacking headers and right angle 3x4 headers in order to stack on top of this shield without the servo connections getting in the way.

A spot to place a big capacitor on the V+ line (in case you need it)

220 ohm series resistors on all the output lines to protect them, and to make driving LEDs trivial

Solder jumpers for the 6 address select pins

This product comes with a fully tested and assembled wing as well as 2 pieces of 3x4 male straight header (for servo/LED plugs), a 2-pin terminal block (for power) and a stick of 0.1" header so you can plug into a Feather. A little light soldering will be required to assemble and customize the board by attaching the desired headers but it is a 15 minute task that even a beginner can do.

If you want to use right-angle 3x4 headers, we also carry a 4 pack in the shop. Servos and Feather not included, but we have lots of servos in the shop.

Note: The terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black.

For additional information see our tutorial where you can get our documented Arduino and CircuitPython library with has both PWM and Servo examples!

Display, elegantly, 012345678 or 9! Gaze, hypnotized, at ABCDEFGHIJKLM - well it can display the whole alphabet. You get the point.

A Feather board without ambition is a Feather board without FeatherWings! This is the Adafruit 0.56" 4-Digit 14-Segment Display FeatherWing! This 14-segment FeatherWing backpack makes it really easy to add a bright alphanumeric display that shows letters and numbers in a beautiful hue. It's super bright and designed for viewing from distances up to 23 feet (7 meters) away.

Works with any and all Feathers!

14-Segment Matrices like these are 'multiplexed' - so to control all the fourteen-segment LEDs you need 18 pins. That's a lot of pins, and there are driver chips like the MAX7219 that can control a matrix for you but there's a lot of wiring to set up and they take up a ton of space. Wouldn't it be awesome if you could control a matrix without tons of wiring? That's where these Alphanumeric LED Matrix FeatherWings come in, they make it really easy to add a 4-digit alphanumeric display with decimal points.

The LEDs themselves do not connect to the Feather. Instead, a matrix driver chip (HT16K33) does the multiplexing for you. The Feather simply sends i2c commands to the chip to tell it what LEDs to light up and it is handled for you. This takes a lot of the work and pin-requirements off the Feather. Since it uses only I2C for control, it works with any Feather and can share the I2C pins for other sensors or displays.

This product kit comes with:

A fully tested and assembled Adafruit 4-Digit 14-Segment Alphanumeric Display FeatherWing

Two sixteen pin headers

A bit of soldering is required to attach the matrix onto the FeatherWing but its very easy to do and only takes about 5 minutes!  Note: Feather board and 14-segment display are not included, but we have lots available in the shop.

Of course, in classic Adafruit fashion, we also have a detailed tutorial showing you how to solder, wire and control the display. We even wrote a very nice library for the backpacks in both Arduino & CircuitPython so you can get running in under half an hour, displaying letters or numbers on the 14-segment. If you've been eyeing matrix displays but hesitated because of the complexity, this is the solution you've been looking for.

A Feather board without ambition is a Feather board without FeatherWings!

This is the FeatherWing Proto - a prototyping add-on for all Feather boards. Using our Feather Stacking Headers or Feather Female Headers you can connect a FeatherWing on top or bottom of your Feather board and let the board take flight!

This has a duplicate breakout for each pin on a Feather, as well as a bunch of plain grid proto holes. For GND and 3.3V, we give you a strip of connected pads. There's plenty of room for buttons, indicator LEDs, or anything for your portable project. The FeatherWing Proto makes an ideal partner for any of our Feather boards.

Check out our range of Feather boards here.

Say hello to our 0.96" 160x80 Color TFT Display w/ MicroSD Card Breakout – we think it's T-F-Terrific! It's the size of your thumbnail, with glorious 160x80 pixel color. This very very small display is only 0.96" diagonal, packed with RGB pixels, for making very small high-density displays.

This lovely little display breakout is a great way to add a small, colorful and bright display to any project. Since the display uses 4-wire SPI to communicate and has its own pixel-addressable frame buffer, it can be used with every kind of microcontroller. Even a very small one with low memory and few pins available!

The 0.96" display has 160x80 color pixels. Unlike the low cost "Nokia 6110" and similar LCD displays, which are CSTN type and thus have poor color and slow refresh, this display is a true TFT! The TFT driver (ST7735R) can display full 16-bit color using our library code.

The breakout has the TFT display soldered on (it uses a delicate flex-circuit connector) as well as a ultra-low-dropout 3.3V regulator and a 3/5V level shifter so you can use it with 3.3V or 5V power and logic. We also had a little space so we placed a microSD card holder so you can easily load full color bitmaps from a FAT16/FAT32 formatted microSD card. The microSD card is not included, but you can pick one up here.

Of course, we wouldn't just leave you with a datasheet and a "good luck!" - we've written a full open source graphics library that can draw pixels, lines, rectangles, circles, text and bitmaps as well as example code and a wiring tutorial. The code is written for Arduino IDE but can be easily ported to your favorite microcontroller!

You want to make a cool robot, maybe a hexapod walker, or maybe just a piece of art with a lot of moving parts. Or maybe you want to drive a lot of LEDs with precise PWM output. Then you realize that your microcontroller has a limited number of PWM outputs! What now? You could give up OR you could just get this handy PWM and Servo driver breakout.When we saw this chip, we quickly realized what an excellent add-on this would be. Using only two pins, control 16 free-running PWM outputs! You can even chain up 62 breakouts to control up to 992 PWM outputs (which we would really like to see since it would be glorious)

It's an i2c-controlled PWM driver with a built in clock. That means that, unlike the TLC5940 family, you do not need to continuously send it signal tying up your microcontroller, its completely free running!

It is 5V compliant, which means you can control it from a 3.3V microcontroller and still safely drive up to 6V outputs (this is good for when you want to control white or blue LEDs with 3.4+ forward voltages)

6 address select pins so you can wire up to 62 of these on a single i2c bus, a total of 992 outputs - that's a lot of servos or LEDs

Adjustable frequency PWM up to about 1.6 KHz

12-bit resolution for each output - for servos, that means about 4us resolution at 60Hz update rate

Configurable push-pull or open-drain output

Output enable pin to quickly disable all the outputs

We wrapped up this lovely chip into a breakout board with a couple nice extras

Terminal block for power input (or you can use the 0.1" breakouts on the side)

Reverse polarity protection on the terminal block input. The terminal block included with your product may be blue or black.

Green power-good LED

3 pin connectors in groups of 4 so you can plug in 16 servos at once (Servo plugs are slightly wider than 0.1" so you can only stack 4 next to each other on 0.1" header

"Chain-able" design

A spot to place a big capacitor on the V+ line (in case you need it)

220 ohm series resistors on all the output lines to protect them, and to make driving LEDs trivial

Solder jumpers for the 6 address select pins

This product comes with a fully tested and assembled breakout as well as 4 pieces of 3x4 male straight header (for servo/LED plugs), a 2-pin terminal block (for power) and a piece of 6-pin 0.1" header (to plug into a breadboard). A little light soldering will be required to assemble and customize the board by attaching the desired headers but it is a 15 minute task that even a beginner can do. If you want to use right-angle 3x4 headers, we also carry a 4 pack in the shop.Check out our tutorial with CircuitPython & Arduino libraries/examples, wiring diagrams, schematics, Fritzing and more!

*BZZZZZZZZZZ* Feel that? That's your little buzzing motor, and for any haptic feedback project you'll want to pick up a few of them. These vibe motors are tiny discs, completely sealed up so they're easy to use and embed.Two wires are used to control/power the vibe. Simply provide power from a battery or microcontroller pin (red is positive, blue is negative) and it will buzz away. Works from 2V up to 5V, higher voltages result in more current draw but also a stronger vibration.If you want to reduce the current draw/strength (for example, to control it directly from an Arduino pin) try putting a resistor (100 to 1000 ohms) in series. For full power control, a small PN2222 transistor can control a motor easily, some experimentation may be required!

Vibrating Mini Motor Disc (6:47)

LV-EZ4 Maxbotix Ultrasonic Rangefinder provides very short to long-range detection and ranging, in an incredibly small package. It can detect objects from 0-inches to 254-inches (6.45-meters) and provides sonar range information from 6-inches out to 254-inches with 1-inch resolution. (Objects from 0 inches to 6-inches range as 6-inches.) The interface output formats included are pulse width output (PWM), analog voltage output (Vcc/512 volts per inch), and serial digital output (9600 baud).

A good sensor for when a Sharp IR distance sensor won't cut it. For example of using this with an Arduino, see the Halloween Pumpkin project.

Many applications require a narrower beam or lower sensitivity than the LV MaxSonar EZ1. Consequently, MaxBotix is offering the EZ2, EZ3, & EZ4 with progressively narrower beam angles allowing the sensor to match the application.

LV-EZ4 Data Sheet / Product Information Guide is available here.

The different LV models have different beam width patterns, check this image for a comparison of all the LV model beam patterns.For higher sensitivity, check out the HR-LV models - they have up to 1mm sensitivity and 5 meter range!

The HRLV-MaxSonar-EZ sensor line is the most cost-effective solution for applications where precision range-finding, low-voltage operation, space saving, and low-cost are needed.

The HRLV-MaxSonar-EZ sensor line provides high accuracy and high resolution ultrasonic proximity detection and ranging in air, in a package less than one cubic inch. This sensor line features 1mm resolution, target-size and operating-voltage compensation for improved accuracy, superior rejection of outside noise sources, internal speed-of-sound temperature compensation and optional external speed-of-sound temperature compensation. This ultrasonic sensor detects objects from 1mm to 5meters, senses range to objects from 30cm to 5meters, with large objects closer than 30cm typically reported as 30cm. The interface output formats are pulse width, analog voltage, and serial digital in either RS232 or TTL. Factory calibration is standard.

A good sensor for when a Sharp IR distance sensor won't cut it. For example of using this with an Arduino, see the Halloween Pumpkin project.

HRLV-EZ0 Data Sheet / Product Information Guide is available here. By default this sensor outputs RS-232 logic level data, to use it in TTL logic mode, solder closed the square jumper on the back.

The different HRLV models have different beam width patterns, check this image for a comparison of all the HRLV model beam patterns. If you don't need high sensitivity, or want a longer range, check out the LV models - They are meant for up to 6.5 meter distances

The HRLV-MaxSonar-EZ sensor line is the most cost-effective solution for applications where precision range-finding, low-voltage operation, space saving, and low-cost are needed.

The HRLV-MaxSonar-EZ sensor line provides high accuracy and high resolution ultrasonic proximity detection and ranging in air, in a package less than one cubic inch. This sensor line features 1mm resolution, target-size and operating-voltage compensation for improved accuracy, superior rejection of outside noise sources, internal speed-of-sound temperature compensation and optional external speed-of-sound temperature compensation. This ultrasonic sensor detects objects from 1mm to 5meters, senses range to objects from 30cm to 5meters, with large objects closer than 30cm typically reported as 30cm. The interface output formats are pulse width, analog voltage, and serial digital in either RS232 or TTL. Factory calibration is standard.

A good sensor for when a Sharp IR distance sensor won't cut it. For example of using this with an Arduino, see the Halloween Pumpkin project.

HRLV-EZ1 Data Sheet / Product Information Guide is available here. By default this sensor outputs RS-232 logic level data, to use it in TTL logic mode, solder closed the square jumper on the back.

The different HRLV models have different beam width patterns, check this image for a comparison of all the HRLV model beam patterns. If you don't need high sensitivity, or want a longer range, check out the LV models - They are meant for up to 6.5 meter distances

The HRLV-MaxSonar-EZ sensor line is the most cost-effective solution for applications where precision range-finding, low-voltage operation, space saving, and low-cost are needed.

The HRLV-MaxSonar-EZ sensor line provides high accuracy and high resolution ultrasonic proximity detection and ranging in air, in a package less than one cubic inch. This sensor line features 1mm resolution, target-size and operating-voltage compensation for improved accuracy, superior rejection of outside noise sources, internal speed-of-sound temperature compensation and optional external speed-of-sound temperature compensation. This ultrasonic sensor detects objects from 1mm to 5meters, senses range to objects from 30cm to 5meters, with large objects closer than 30cm typically reported as 30cm. The interface output formats are pulse width, analog voltage, and serial digital in either RS232 or TTL. Factory calibration is standard.

A good sensor for when a Sharp IR distance sensor won't cut it. For example of using this with an Arduino, see the Halloween Pumpkin project.

HRLV-EZ4 Data Sheet / Product Information Guide is available here. By default this sensor outputs RS-232 logic level data, to use it in TTL logic mode, solder closed the square jumper on the back.

The different HRLV models have different beam width patterns, check this image for a comparison of all the HRLV model beam patterns. If you don't need high sensitivity, or want a longer range, check out the LV models - They are meant for up to 6.5 meter distances

Teensy 3.2 is a small, breadboard-friendly development board designed by Paul Stoffregen and PJRC. Teensy 3.2 brings a low-cost 32 bit ARM Cortex-M4 platform to hobbyists, students and engineers, using an adapted version of the Arduino IDE (Teensyduino) or programming directly in C language. Teensy 3.2 is an upgrade over 3.1! Teensy 3.2 is a drop-in replacement upgrade for 3.1 and can run any sketches designed for 3.1.

This latest version of this complete USB-based microcontoller development system now adds a more powerful 3.3V regulator, as well as accepts a wider voltage input range. This board has the same size, shape and pinout as well as full compatibility with all shields and add-on boards made for the Teensy 3.1, plus double the Flash memory as the Teensy 3.0.

Let's get started!

Please note: Teensy 3 and 2 are not official Arduino-brand products. Although the Teensyduino IDE has been adapted so that many simple Arduino projects will work with the Teensy, there will still be a lot of libraries and shields that will not work with this device! If you're new to microcontrollers, we suggest going with a classic Arduino UNO since all Arduino projects, examples and libraries will work with it.

Once headers are installed they can be fitted into 0.6" wide socketsTechnical Specifications:

32 bit ARM Cortex-M4 72MHz CPU (M4 = DSP extensions) Here is Freescale's reference manual for the chip (warning 1227 pages) as well as the Datasheet and User Guide!

256K Flash Memory, 64K RAM, 2K EEPROM

21* High Resolution Analog Inputs (13 bits usable, 16 bit hardware)

34* Digital I/O Pins (21 shared with analog)

12 PWM outputs

1 12-bit DAC output

8 Timers for intervals/delays, separate from PWM

USB with dedicated DMA memory transfers

CAN bus

3 UARTs (serial ports)

SPI, I2C, I2S, IR modulator

I2S (for high quality audio interface)

Real Time Clock (with user-added 32.768 crystal and battery)

16 general purpose DMA channels (separate from USB)

Touch Sensor Inputs

Information, documentation and specs are on the Teensy site. Please check it out for more details!

The awesome new Teensy 3.5 is a small, breadboard-friendly development board designed by Paul Stoffregen and PJRC. Teensy 3.5 brings a low-cost 32-bit ARM Cortex-M4 platform to hobbyists, students and engineers, using an adapted version of the Arduino IDE (Teensyduino) or programming directly in C language. Teensy 3.5 is an upgrade over 3.2, for when you need even more power!

Version 3.5 features a 32 bit 120 MHz ARM Cortex-M4 processor with floating point unit. All digital pins are 5 volt tolerant. The unique specs for the 3.5 are:

120 MHz ARM Cortex-M4 with Floating Point Unit

512K Flash, 192K RAM, 4K EEPROM

Microcontroller Chip MK64FX512VMD12 (PDF link)

1 CAN Bus Port

16 General Purpose DMA Channels

5 Volt Tolerance On All Digital I/O Pins

The latest in the line of very powerful, USB-capable microcontrollers, the Teensy 3.5 and 3.6 development boards are faster, more capable, and bigger, putting even more pins on a solderless breadboard. Teensy 3.5 offers a little bit less in its features (MCU, RAM, Flash, clock and some peripherals) which makes it slightly cheaper than Teensy 3.6. Teensy 3.5 has 5V tolerance on all digital I/O pins. Only Teensy 3.6 has a USB High Speed (480 Mbit/sec) port accessed using 5 pins on the board.

Please note: Teensy 3 boards are not official Arduino-brand products. Although the Teensyduino IDE has been adapted so that many Arduino projects will work with the Teensy, there will still be a lot of libraries and shields that may not work with this device! If you're new to microcontrollers, we suggest going with a classic Arduino UNO since all Arduino projects, examples and libraries will work with it.More Specifications, Details & Features:

62 I/O Pins (42 breadboard friendly)

25 Analog Inputs to 2 ADCs with 13 bits resolution

2 Analog Outputs (DACs) with 12 bit resolution

20 PWM Outputs (Teensy 3.6 has 22 PWM)

USB Full Speed (12 Mbit/sec) Port

Ethernet mac, capable of full 100 Mbit/sec speed

Native (4 bit SDIO) micro SD card port

I2S Audio Port, 4 Channel Digital Audio Input & Output

14 Hardware Timers

Cryptographic Acceleration Unit

Random Number Generator

CRC Computation Unit

6 Serial Ports (2 with FIFO & Fast Baud Rates)

3 SPI Ports (1 with FIFO)

3 I2C Ports (Teensy 3.6 has a 4th I2C port)

Real Time Clock

Information, documentation and specs are on the Teensy site. Please check it out for more details!

The awesome new Teensy 3.6 is a small, breadboard-friendly development board designed by Paul Stoffregen and PJRC. Teensy 3.6 brings a low-cost 32-bit ARM Cortex-M4 platform to hobbyists, students and engineers, using an adapted version of the Arduino IDE (Teensyduino) or programming directly in C language. Teensy 3.6 is an upgrade over 3.2 and 3.5, for when you need even more power!

Version 3.6 features a 32 bit 180 MHz ARM Cortex-M4 processor with floating point unit. All digital and analog pins are 3.3 volts. Do not apply more than 3.3V to any signal pin. The unique specs for the 3.6 are:

180 MHz ARM Cortex-M4 with Floating Point Unit

1M Flash, 256K RAM, 4K EEPROM

Microcontroller Chip MK66FX1M0VMD18 (PDF link)

USB High Speed (480 Mbit/sec) Port

2 CAN Bus Ports

32 General Purpose DMA Channels

22 PWM Outputs

4 I2C Ports

11 Touch Sensing Inputs

The latest in the line of very powerful, USB-capable microcontrollers, the Teensy 3.5 and 3.6 development boards are faster, more capable, and bigger, putting even more pins on a solderless breadboard. Teensy 3.6 offers a little bit more in its features (MCU, RAM, Flash, clock and some peripherals) than Teensy 3.5, and only the 3.6 has a USB High Speed (480 Mbit/sec) port accessed using 5 pins on the board.

Please note: Teensy 3 boards are not official Arduino-brand products. Although the Teensyduino IDE has been adapted so that many Arduino projects will work with the Teensy, there will still be a lot of libraries and shields that may not work with this device! If you're new to microcontrollers, we suggest going with a classic Arduino UNO since all Arduino projects, examples and libraries will work with it.More Specifications, Details & Features:

62 I/O Pins (42 breadboard friendly)

25 Analog Inputs to 2 ADCs with 13 bits resolution

2 Analog Outputs (DACs) with 12 bit resolution

20 PWM Outputs (Teensy 3.6 has 22 PWM)

USB Full Speed (12 Mbit/sec) Port

Ethernet mac, capable of full 100 Mbit/sec speed

Native (4 bit SDIO) micro SD card port

I2S Audio Port, 4 Channel Digital Audio Input & Output

14 Hardware Timers

Cryptographic Acceleration Unit

Random Number Generator

CRC Computation Unit

6 Serial Ports (2 with FIFO & Fast Baud Rates)

3 SPI Ports (1 with FIFO)

3 I2C Ports (Teensy 3.6 has a 4th I2C port)

Real Time Clock

Information, documentation and specs are on the Teensy site. Please check it out for more details!

This audio adapter lets you easily add high quality 16 bit, 44.1 kHz sample rate (CD quality) audio to your projects with a Teensy 3.2, 3.5 or 3.6. It supports stereo headphone and stereo line-level output, and also stereo line-level input or mono microphone input.The audio chip connects to Teensy v3 using 7 signals. The I2C pins SDA and SCL are used to control the chip and adjust parameters. Audio data uses I2S signals, TX (to headphones and/or line out) and RX (from line in or mic), and 3 clocks, LRCLK (44.1 kHz), BCLK (1.41 MHz) and MCLK (11.29 MHz). All 3 clocks are created by Teensy 3.1. The SGTL5000 chip operates in "slave mode", where all its clock pins are inputs.

As of February 23rd, 2015 we are shipping an updated version with a few minor changes.This product does NOT include a Teensy, it's just the audio adapter!

A gyroscope is a type of sensor that can sense twisting and turning motions. Often paired with an accelerometer, you can use these to do 3D motion capture and inertial measurement (that is - you can tell how an object is moving!) As these sensors become more popular and easier to manufacture, the prices for them have dropped to the point where you can easily afford a triple-axis gyro! Only a decade ago, this space-tech sensor would have been hundreds of dollars.This breakout board is based around the latest gyro technology, the L3GD20H from STMicro. It's the upgrade to the L3G4200 (see this app note on what to look for if upgrading an existing design to the L3GD20) with three full axes of sensing. The chip can be set to ±250, ±500, or ±2000 degree-per-second scale for a large range of sensitivity. There's also built in high and low pass sensing to make data processing easier. The chip supports both I2C and SPI so you can interface with any microcontroller easily.Since this chip is a 3.3V max device, but many of our customers want to use it with an Arduino, we soldered it to a breakout board with level shifting circuitry so you can use the I2C or SPI interface safely using a 5V interface device. We also place a 3.3V regulator on there so you can power it from 5V.Since we expect people will want to attach it firmly to their project, the PCB comes with four 2.1mm mounting holes. Use #2-56 imperial or M2 screws screws.Getting started is easy - simply connect SDA to your Arduino I2C data pin (On the UNO this is A4), SCL to I2C clock (Uno: A5), GND to ground, and Vin to 3 or 5VDC. Then install and run our easy to use Arduino library, which will print out the XYZ sensor data to the serial terminal. Our library also supports SPI on any 4 digital I/O pins, see the example for wiring.

The NXP Precision 9DoF breakout combines two of the best motion sensors we've tested here at Adafruit: The FXOS8700 3-Axis accelerometer and magnetometer, and the FXAS21002 3-axis gyroscope.

These two sensors combine to make a nice 9-DoF kit, that can be used for motion and orientation sensing. In particular, we think this sensor set is ideal for AHRS-based orientation calculations: the gyro stability performance is superior to the LSM9DS0, LSM9DS1, L3GD20H + LSM303, MPU-9250, and even the BNO-055 (see our Gyro comparison tutorial for more details).

Compared to the BNO055, this sensor will get you similar orientation performance but at a lower price because the calculations are done on your microcontroller, not in the sensor itself. The trade off is you will sacrifice about 15KB of Flash space, and computing cycles, to do the math 'in house.'

To make it fast and easy for you to get started, we have a version of AHRS that we've adapted to work over USB or Bluetooth LE. Load the code onto your Arduino-compatible board and you will get orientation data in the form of Euler angles or quaternions! It will work on a ATmega328 (the fusion code is 15KB of flash) but faster/larger chips such as M0 or ESP8266 will give you more breathing room.

Each board comes with the two chips soldered onto a breakout with 4 mounting holes. While the chips support SPI, they don't tri-state the MISO pin, so we decided to go with plain I2C which works well and is supported by every modern microcontroller and computer chip set.  There's a 3.3V regulator and level shifting on the I2C and Reset lines, so you can use the breakout safely with 3.3V or 5V power/logic. Each order comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout and a small strip of header. Some light soldering is required to attach the header if you want to use in a breadboard.

Our tutorial will get you started with wiring diagrams, pinouts, assembly instructions and library code with examples!

So what makes this so 'Precision'-y, eh?

Glad you asked! This particular sensor combination jumped out at us writing the Comparing Gyroscopes learning guide since the FXAS21002 exhibited the lowest zero-rate level of any of the gyroscopes we've tested, with the the following documented levels (converted to degrees per second for convenience sake):

At +/- 2000 dps 3.125 dps

At +/- 250 dps 0.3906 dps

The zero-rate level is important in orientation since it represents the amount of angular velocity a gyroscope will report when the device is immobile. High zero-rate levels can cause all kinds of problems in orientation systems if the data isn't properly compensated out, and distinguishing zero-rate errors from actual angular velocity can be non-trivial. This is particularly important in sensor fusion algorithms where the gyroscope plays an important part in predicting orientation adjustments over time. A high zero-rate level will cause constant rotation even when the device is immobile!

By comparison, most other sensors tested have 10-20 times these zero-rate levels, which is why we consider this particular part very precise. There is little work to do out of the box to get useful, actionable data out of it.

Filling out our accelerometer offerings, we now have the really lovely digital ADXL345 from Analog Devices, a triple-axis accelerometer with digital I2C and SPI interface breakout. We added an on-board 3.3V regulator and logic-level shifting circuitry, making it a perfect choice for interfacing with any 3V or 5V microcontroller such as the Arduino.The sensor has three axes of measurements, X Y Z, and pins that can be used either as I2C or SPI digital interfacing. You can set the sensitivity level to either +-2g, +-4g, +-8g or +-16g. The lower range gives more resolution for slow movements, the higher range is good for high speed tracking. The ADXL345 is the latest and greatest from Analog Devices, known for their exceptional quality MEMS devices. The VCC takes up to 5V in and regulates it to 3.3V with an output pin.Fully assembled and tested. Comes with 9 pin 0.1" standard header in case you want to use it with a breadboard or perfboard. Two 2.5mm (0.1") mounting holes for easy attachment.Get started in a jiffy with our detailed tutorial!

ADXL345 - Triple-Axis Accelerometer (+-2g/4g/8g/16g) w/ I2C/SPI (16:05)

The LIS3DH is a very popular low power triple-axis accelerometer. It's low-cost, but has just about every 'extra' you'd want in an accelerometer:

Three axis sensing, 10-bit precision

±2g/±4g/±8g/±16g selectable scaling

Both I2C (2 possible addresses) and SPI interface options

Interrupt output

Multiple data rate options 1 Hz to 5Khz

As low as 2uA current draw (just the chip itself, not including any supporting circuitry)

Tap, Double-tap, orientation & freefall detection

3 additional ADC inputs you can read over I2C

To all that, we've also added:

3.3V regulator + level shifting, so you can safely use with any Arduino or microcontroller without the need for an external level shifter!

We kept seeing this accelerometer in teardowns of commercial products and figured that if it's the most-commonly used accelerometer, its worth having a breakout board!

This sensor communicates over I2C or SPI (our library code supports both) so you can share it with a bunch of other sensors on the same I2C bus. There's an address selection pin so you can have two accelerometers share an I2C bus.

To get you going fast, we spun up a breakout board for this little guy. Since it's a 3V sensor, we add a low-dropout 3.3V regulator and level shifting circuitry on board. That means its perfectly safe for use with 3V or 5V power and logic. It's fully assembled and tested.  Comes with a bit of 0.1" standard header in case you want to use it with a breadboard or perfboard.  Two 2.5mm (0.1") mounting holes for easy attachment.

Check out our tutorial for all sorts of details, including pinouts, assembly, wiring, and more!

Because the Arduino (and Basic Stamp) are 5V devices, and most modern sensors, displays, flash cards and modes are 3.3V-only, many makers find that they need to perform level shifting/conversion to protect the 3.3V device from 5V.Although one can use resistors to make a divider, for high speed transfers, the resistors can add a lot of slew and cause havoc that is tough to debug. For that reason, we like using 4050/74LVX245 series and similar logic to perform proper level shifting. Only problem is that they are only good in one direction which can be a problem for some specialty bi-diectional interfaces and also makes wiring a little hairy.That's where this lovely chip, the TXB0108 bi-directional level converter comes in! This chip perform bidirectional level shifting from pretty much any voltage to any voltage and will auto-detect the direction. Only thing that doesn't work well with this chip is i2c (because it uses strong pullups which confuse auto-direction sensor). If you need to use pullups, you can but they should be at least 50K ohm - the ones internal to AVRs/Arduino are about 100K ohm so those are OK! Its a little more luxurious than a 74LVX245 but if you just don't want to worry about directional pins this is a life saver!Since this chip is a special bi-directional level shifter it does not have strong output pins that can drive LEDs or long cables, it's meant to sit on a breadboard between two logic chips! If you do not need instant bi-directional support, we suggest the 74LVX245 as below which has strong output drive.This breakout saves you from having to solder the very fine pitch packages that this chip comes with. We also add 0.1uF caps onto both sides and a 10K pull-up resistor on the output enable pin so you can use it right out of the box!

Because the Arduino (and Basic Stamp) are 5V devices, and most modern sensors, displays, flash cards and modes are 3.3V-only, many makers find that they need to perform level shifting/conversion to protect the 3.3V device from 5V.We do have some other handy level shifters in the shop, from the DIP 74LVC245 to the fancy bi-directional TXB0108. However, neither of these are happy to work with I2C, which uses a funky pull-up system to transfer data back and forth. This level shifter board combines the ease-of-use of the bi-directional TXB0108 with an I2C-compatible FET design following NXP's app note.This breakout has 4 BSS138 FETs with 10K pullups. It works down to 1.8V on the low side, and up to 10V on the high side. The 10K's do make the interface a little more sluggish than using a TXB0108 or 74LVC245 so we suggest checking those out if you need high-speed transfer.While we designed it for use with I2C, this works as well for  TTL Serial,  slow <2MHz SPI, and any other digital interface both uni-directional and bidirectional. Comes with a fully assembled, and tested PCB with 4 full bidirectional converter lines as well as 2 pieces of 6-pin header you can solder on to plug into a breadboard or perfboard.

Would you like to add powerful and easy-to-use Bluetooth Low Energy to your robot, art or other electronics project? Heck yeah! With BLE now included in modern smart phones and tablets, its fun to add wireless connectivity. So what you really need is the new Adafruit Bluefruit LE SPI Friend!

The Bluefruit LE SPI Friend makes it easy to add Bluetooth Low Energy connectivity to anything with 4 or 5 GPIO pins. With SPI, you don't have to worry about baud rates, flow control, or giving up a hardware UART port. Connect to your Arduino or other microcontroller using the common four-pin SPI interface (MISO, MOSI, SCK and CS) plus a 5th GPIO pin for interrupts (to let the Arduino know when data or a response is ready).

This multi-function module can do quite a lot! For most people, they'll be very happy to use the standard Nordic UART RX/TX connection profile. In this profile, the Bluefruit acts as a data pipe, that can 'transparently' transmit back and forth from your iOS or Android device. You can use our iOS App or Android App, or write your own to communicate with the UART service.

If you like Serial communication more than SPI, we also have a version that can talk UART

The board is capable of much more than just sending strings over the air!  Thanks to an easy to learn AT command set, you have full control over how the device behaves, including the ability to define and manipulate your own GATT Services and Characteristics, or change the way that the device advertises itself for other Bluetooth Low Energy devices to see. You can also use the AT commands  to query the die temperature, check the battery voltage, and more, check the connection RSSI or MAC address, and tons more. Really, way too long to list here!

Download our free Android/iOS app and you're ready to rock!

Using our Bluefruit iOS App or Android App, you can quickly get your project prototyped by using your iOS or Android phone/tablet as a controller. We have a color picker, quaternion/accelerometer/gyro/magnetometer or location (GPS), and an 8-button control game pad.

You can do a lot more too!

The Bluefruit can also act like an HID Keyboard (for devices that support BLE HID)

Can become a BLE Heart Rate Monitor (a standard profile for BLE) - you just need to add the pulse-detection circuitry

Turn it into a UriBeacon, the Google standard for Bluetooth LE beacons. Just power it and the 'Friend will bleep out a URL to any nearby devices with the UriBeacon app installed.

Built in over-the-air bootloading capability so we can keep you updated with the hottest new firmware. Use any Android or iOS device to get updates and install them!

Why use Adafruit's Module?

There are plenty of BLE modules out there, with varying quality on the HW design as well as the firmware. So why should you go with this one?

One of the biggest advantages of the Adafruit Bluefruit LE family is that we wrote all of the firmware running on the devices ourselves from scratch. We control every line of code that runs on our modules ... and so we aren't at the mercy of any third party vendors who may or may not be interested in keeping their code up to date or catering to our customer's needs.

Because we control everything about the product, we add features that are important to our customers, can solve any issues that do come up without begging any 3rd parties, and we can even change Bluetooth SoCs entirely if the need ever arises!

Check out our tutorial for all of the details that you can dream of!

Give your next sensor project a nose for gasses with the Adafruit MiCS-5524 Gas Sensor Breakout. This breakout makes it easy to use this nice sensor from SGX Sensortech. The MiCS-5524 is a robust MEMS sensor for indoor carbon monoxide and natural gas leakage detection, it's suitable also for indoor air quality monitoring; breath checker and early fire detection.

Please note: This sensor is sensitive to CO ( ~ 1 to 1000 ppm), Ammonia (~ 1 to 500 ppm), Ethanol (~ 10 to 500 ppm), H2 (~ 1 - 1000 ppm), and Methane / Propane / Iso-Butane (~ 1,000++ ppm). However, it can't tell you which gas it has detected. 

This breakout board is not for any safety, medical or finished product usage. We're selling it for hobby education & experimentation and don't guarantee it for any other purpose! All gas sensors require calibration for precision output.

Using it is easy: Power it with 5 VDC and read the analog voltage off of the output pin. When gasses are detected, the analog voltage will increase in proportion of detected gas. When powered, the heater draws about 25-35mA. You can use the EN pin to power it off (pull it high to 5V to turn off) to conserve energy. Just make sure to wait a second after turning the heater on to make sure its all heated before taking readings.

Each order comes with one assembled and tested MiCS-5524 breakout and a bit of header. You'll need to do some light soldering to attach the header on - or you can use just plain wires.

Check out the tutorial for files, example code, diagrams and more!

This little sensor is a great way to add UV light sensing to any microcontroller project. The VEML6070 from Vishay has a true UV A light sensor and an I2C-controlled ADC that will take readings and integrate them for you over ~60ms to 500ms.

Unlike the Si1145, this sensor will not give you UV Index readings. However, the Si1145 does UV Index approximations based on light level not true UV sensing. The VEML6070 in contrast does have a real light sensor in the UV spectrum. It's also got a much much simpler I2C interface so you can run it on the smallest microcontrollers with ease.

Unlike the GUVA analog sensor, the biasing and ADC is all internal so you don't need an ADC.

This UV sensor works great with 3 or 5V power or logic, its nice and compact, and its easy to use with any I2C-capable microcontroller. Each order comes with one assembled PCB with a sensor, some handy pullup resistors, a 270K rset resistor and a small piece of header. Some light soldering is required to attach the header but its a fast task!

Check out our tutorial for details on on how to use this sensor, including files, code and assembly!

The TSL2561 luminosity sensor is an advanced digital light sensor, ideal for use in a wide range of light situations. Compared to low cost CdS cells, this sensor is more precise, allowing for exact lux calculations and can be configured for different gain/timing ranges to detect light ranges from up to 0.1 - 40,000+ Lux on the fly. The best part of this sensor is that it contains both infrared and full spectrum diodes! That means you can separately measure infrared, full-spectrum or human-visible light. Most sensors can only detect one or the other, which does not accurately represent what human eyes see (since we cannot perceive the IR light that is detected by most photo diodes)New! As of June 3, 2014 we are shipping a version with a 3.3V regulator and level shifting circuitry so it can be used with any 3-5V power/logic microcontroller.The sensor has a digital (i2c) interface. You can select one of three addresses so you can have up to three sensors on one board - each with a different i2c address. The built in ADC means you can use this with any microcontroller, even if it doesn't have analog inputs. The current draw is extremely low, so its great for low power data-logging systems. about 0.5mA when actively sensing, and less than 15 uA when in powerdown mode.Of course, we wouldn't leave you with a datasheet and a "good luck!" - we wrote a detailed tutorial showing how to wire up the sensor, use it with CircuitPython or Arduino and example code that gets readings and calculates lux

Upgrade a project that uses a photocell with the GA1A12S202 analog light sensor. Like a CdS photo-cell, the sensor does not require a microcontroller, the analog voltage output increases with the amount of light shining on the sensor face. This sensor has a lot of improvements that make it better for nearly any project.The biggest improvement over plain photocells is a true log-lin relationship with light levels. Most light sensors have a linear relationship with light levels, which means that they're not very sensitive to changes in darkened areas and 'max' out very easily when there's a lot of light. Sometimes you can tweak a resistor to make them better in dark or bright light but its hard to get good performance at both ends. This sensor is logarithmic over a large dynamic range of 3 to 55,000 Lux, so it has a lot of sensitivity at low light levels but is also nearly impossible to "max out" so you can use it indoors or outdoors without changing code or calibration. Since the sensor is fabricated on a chip, there are also fewer manufacturing variations, so you won't have to calibrate the sensor from one board to another.Using the sensor is easy as pie: connect the Vin to 2.3-6VDC, Gnd to ground and measure the analog output on OUT. It will range up to 3V (at extremely bright outdoor sunlight). On an Arduino, just use analogRead() with the OUT pin connected to an analog pin. For more information including graphs, power consumption, etc check out the datasheet in the Tech Details tab. On this breakout we placed a 68KΩ resistor from OUT to ground to turn the current into a voltage.

GA1A12S202 Log-scale Analog Light Sensor (6:52)

Your electronics can now see in dazzling color with this lovely color light sensor. We found the best color sensor on the market, the TCS34725, which has RGB and Clear light sensing elements. An IR blocking filter, integrated on-chip and localized to the color sensing photodiodes, minimizes the IR spectral component of the incoming light and allows color measurements to be made accurately. The filter means you'll get much truer color than most sensors, since humans don't see IR. The sensor also has an incredible 3,800,000:1 dynamic range with adjustable integration time and gain so it is suited for use behind darkened glass.We add supporting circuitry as well, such as a 3.3V regulator so you can power the breakout with 3-5VDC safely and level shifting for the I2C pins so they can be used with 3.3V or 5V logic. Finally, we specified a nice neutral 4150°K temperature LED with a MOSFET driver onboard to illuminate what you're trying to sense. The LED can be easily turned on or off by any logic level output.Connect to any microcontroller with I2C and our example code will quickly get you going with 4 channel readings. We include some example code to detect light lux and temperature that we snagged from the eval board software.A detailed tutorial is here, check out our Arduino library and follow our tutorial to install. Wire up the sensor by connecting VDD to 3-5VDC, Ground to common ground, SCL to I2C Clock and SDA to I2C Data on your Arduino. Restart the IDE and select the example sketch and start putting all your favorite fruit next to the sensor element!

RGB Color Sensor with IR filter - TCS34725 (19:36)

This I2C digital temperature sensor is one of the more accurate/precise we've ever seen, with a typical accuracy of ±0.25°C over the sensor's -40°C to +125°C range and precision of +0.0625°C. They work great with any microcontroller using standard i2c. There are 3 address pins so you can connect up to 8 to a single I2C bus without address collisions. Best of all, a wide voltage range makes it usable with 2.7V to 5.5V logic!Unlike the DS18B20, this sensor does not come in through-hole package so we placed this small sensor on a breakout board PCB for easy use. The PCB includes mounting holes, and pull down resistors for the 3 address pins. We even wrote a lovely little tutorial and library that will work with Arduino or CircuitPython. You'll be up and running in 15 minutes or less.Some quick specs:

Simple I2C control

Up to 8 on a single I2C bus with adjustable address pins

0.25°C typical precision over -40°C to 125°C range (0.5°C guaranteed max from -20°C to 100°C)

0.0625°C resolution

2.7V to 5.5V power and logic voltage range

Operating Current: 200 μA (typical)

Remember when you were a kid and there was a birthday party at the pool and your parents totally embarrassed you by slathering you all over with sunscreen and you were all "MOM I HAVE ENOUGH SUNSCREEN" and she wouldn't listen? Well, if you had this UV Index sensor connected up to an Arduino you could have said "According to this calibrated SI1145 sensor from SiLabs, the UV index right now is 4.5 which means I do not need more sunscreen" and she would have been so impressed with your project that you could have spent more time splashing around.

The SI1145 is a new sensor from SiLabs with a calibrated light sensing algorithm that can calculate UV Index. It doesn't contain an actual UV sensing element, instead it approximates it based on visible & IR light from the sun. We took this outside a couple days and compared the calculated UV index with the news-reported index and found it was very accurate! It's a digital sensor that works over I2C so just about any microcontroller can use it. The sensor also has individual visible and IR sensing elements so you can measure just about any kind of light - we only wrote our library to printout the 'counts' rather than the calculate the exact values of IR and Visible light so if you need precision Lux measurement check out the TSL2561. If you're feeling really advanced, you can connect up an IR LED to the LED pin and use the basic proximity sensor capability that is in the SI1145 as well.

We wrapped this nice little sensor up on a PCB with level shifting and regulation circuitry so you can safely use it with 3 or 5V microcontrollers. If you are using an Arduino, we've got a lovely tutorial and library already written up with example code so you can quickly read sensor readings and the UV index in under 10 minutes. Each order comes with one fully assembled and tested PCB breakout and a small piece of header. You'll need to solder the header onto the PCB but it's fairly easy and takes only a few minutes even for a beginner.

For years we've seen all sorts of microcontroller-friendly WiFi modules but none of them were really Adafruit-worthy. Either they were too slow, or too difficult to use, or required signing an NDA, or had limited functionality, or too expensive, or too large. So we shied away from carrying any general purpose microcontroller-friendly WiFi boards.NO LONGER! The CC3000 hits that sweet spot of usability, price and capability. It uses SPI for communication (not UART!) so you can push data as fast as you want or as slow as you want. It has a proper interrupt system with IRQ pin so you can have asynchronous connections. It supports 802.11b/g, open/WEP/WPA/WPA2 security, TKIP & AES. A built in TCP/IP stack with a "BSD socket" interface. TCP and UDP in both client and server mode, up to 4 concurrent sockets. It does not support "AP" mode, it can connect to an access point but it cannot be an access point.

New! As of 3/20/2014 we are shipping v1.1 which adds a tri-state buffer to the MISO pin so that you can use the CC3000 with other SPI devices on the same bus.

We wrapped this little silver modules in a tidy breakout board. It has an onboard 3.3V regulator that can handle the 350mA peak current, and a level shifter to allow 3 or 5V logic level. The antenna layout is identical to TI's suggested layout and we're using the same components, trace arrangement, and antenna so the board maintains its FCC emitter compliance (you'll still need to perform FCC validation for a finished product, but the WiFi part is taken care of). Even though it's got an onboard antenna we were pretty surprised at the range, as good as a smartphone's.Each order comes with one fully assembled and tested breakout and a small stick of header you can use to solder in and plug into a breadboard. We don't have a detailed tutorial yet but to get you started, we've got a fully working Arduino library that is based off of TI's codebase but adapted for use with the AVR. We also have example code showing how to scan the SSID's, connect to your access point and run DHCP, do a DNS lookup to IP address, ping a site and connect to a remote TCP socket such as a website and print out the page.Please note the hardware is good, but the library code does not yet support all of the CC3000's functionality. At this moment, SSID scanning, connection, DHCP, DNS lookup, ping, and UDP/TCP client & TCP server connections (eg connect to a website and grab data or host a very short website) all work and are tested with example code. Check out our tutorial for wiring and Arduino library downloadsFor use with Arduino Uno, Leonardo/Micro & Mega only at this time - we'll try to get the code ported to the Due at some point but no ETA.

Adafruit CC3000 Breakout with Onboard Ceramic Antenna (0:16)

Add Internet to your next project with an adorable, bite-sized WiFi microcontroller, at a price you like! The ESP8266 processor from Espressif is an 80 MHz microcontroller with a full WiFi front-end (both as client and access point) and TCP/IP stack with DNS support as well. While this chip has been very popular, its also been very difficult to use. Most of the low cost modules are not breadboard friendly, don't have an onboard 500mA 3.3V regulator or level shifting, and aren't CE or FCC emitter certified....UNTIL NOW!

The Adafruit HUZZAH ESP8266 breakout is what we designed to make working with this chip super easy and a lot of fun. We took a certified module with an onboard antenna, and plenty of pins, and soldered it onto our designed breakout PCBs. We added in:

Reset button,

User button that can also put the chip into bootloading mode,

Red LED you can blink,

Level shifting on the UART and reset pin,

3.3V out, 500mA regulator (you'll want to assume the ESP8266 can draw up to 250mA so budget accordingly)

Two diode-protected power inputs (one for a USB cable, another for a battery)

Two parallel, breadboard-friendly breakouts on either side give you access to:

1 x Analog input (1.0V max)

9 x GPIO (3.3V logic), which can also be used for I2C or SPI

2 x UART pins

2 x 3-6V power inputs, reset, enable, LDO-disable, 3.3V output

One breakout at the end has an "FTDI" pinout so you can plug in an FTDI or console cable to upload software and read/write debugging information via the UART. When you're done with your coding, remove the cable, and this little module can be embeded into your project box.

Each module comes pre-loaded with NodeMCU's Lua interpreter (NodeMCU 0.9.5 build 20150318 / Lua 5.1.4 to be specific), you can run commands, and 'save' Lua programs directly to the module's Flash using a USB-Serial converter cable. But, if you'd like, you can skip Lua and go direct to using the Arduino IDE. Once you download the ESP8266 core, you can treat it just like a microcontroller+WiFi board, no other processors needed!

Each order comes with one assembled and tested HUZZAH ESP8266 breakout board, and a stick of 0.1" header that you can solder on and plug the breakout into a breadboard. A soldering iron and solder are required for that, and aren't included. Solderless breadboard also not included. You'll really want a USB-serial cable such as a USB console cable (good for Windows, not suggested for MacOSX users),  FTDI Friend (great for any OS), or FTDI cable (great for any OS)  to upload software to the HUZZAH ESP8266! Our essential tutorial has wiring, pinouts, assembly, downloads, and more!

This pressure sensor from Freescale is a great low-cost sensing solution for measuring barometric pressure. At 1.5 hPa resolution, it's not as precise as our favorite pressure sensor, the BMx280 series, which has up to 0.03 hPa resolution so we don't suggest it as a precision altimeter. However, it's great for basic barometric pressure sensing. The sensor is soldered onto a PCB with 10K pull-up resistors on the I2C pins.This chip is good for use with power and logic voltages ranging from 2.4V to 5.5V so you can use it with your 3V or 5V microcontroller. There's a basic temperature sensor inside but there's no specifications in the datasheet so we're not sure how accurate it is.This chip looks and sounds a whole lot like the MPL3115A2 but this is the less precise version, best for barometric sensing onlyUsing the sensor is easy. For example, if you're using an Arduino, simply connect the VDD pin to the 5V voltage pin, GND to ground, SCL to I2C Clock (Analog 5 on an UNO) and SDA to I2C Data (Analog 4 on an UNO). Then download our MPL115A2 Arduino library and example code for temperature, pressure and basic altitude calculation. Install the library, and load the example sketch. Immediately you'll have the temperature, pressure and altitude data printed in the serial console.

This precision sensor from Bosch is the best low-cost sensing solution for measuring barometric pressure and temperature. Because pressure changes with altitude you can also use it as an altimeter! The sensor is soldered onto a PCB with a 3.3V regulator, I2C level shifter and pull-up resistors on the I2C pins.The BMP180 is the next-generation of sensors from Bosch, and replaces the BMP085. The good news is that it is completely identical to the BMP085 in terms of firmware/software - you can use our BMP085 tutorial and any example code/libraries as a drop-in replacement. The XCLR pin is not physically present on the BMP180 so if you need to know that data is ready you will need to query the I2C bus.This board is 5V compliant - a 3.3V regulator and a i2c level shifter circuit is included so you can use this sensor safely with 5V logic and power.Using the sensor is easy. For example, if you're using an Arduino, simply connect the VIN pin to the 5V voltage pin, GND to ground, SCL to I2C Clock (Analog 5) and SDA to I2C Data (Analog 4). Then download our BMP085/BMP180 Arduino library and example code for temperature, pressure and altitude calculation. Install the library, and load the example sketch. Immediately you'll have precision temperature, pressure and altitude data. Our detailed tutorial has all the info you need including links to software and installation instructions. It includes more information about the BMP180 so you can understand the sensor in depth including how to properly calculate altitude based on sea-level barometric pressure.

BMP180 Barometric Pressure/Temperature/Altitude Sensor- 5V ready (4:40)

Bosch has stepped up their game with their new BMP280 sensor, an environmental sensor with temperature, barometric pressure that is the next generation upgrade to the BMP085/BMP180/BMP183. This sensor is great for all sorts of weather sensing and can even be used in both I2C and SPI!

This precision sensor from Bosch is the best low-cost, precision sensing solution for measuring barometric pressure with ±1 hPa absolute accuraccy, and temperature with ±1.0°C accuracy. Because pressure changes with altitude, and the pressure measurements are so good, you can also use it as an altimeter with  ±1 meter accuracy.

The BMP280 is the next-generation of sensors from Bosch, and is the upgrade to the BMP085/BMP180/BMP183 - with a low altitude noise of 0.25m and the same fast conversion time. It has the same specifications, but can use either I2C orSPI. For simple easy wiring, go with I2C. If you want to connect a bunch of sensors without worrying about I2C address collisions, go with SPI.

Nice sensor right? So we made it easy for you to get right into your next project. The surface-mount sensor is soldered onto a PCB and comes with a 3.3V regulator and level shifting so you can use it with a 3V or 5V logic microcontroller without worry. We even wrote up a nice tutorial with wiring diagrams, schematics, libraries and examples to get you running in 10 minutes!

And make sure to check the tutorial for example code for Arduino and CircuitPython, pinouts, assembly, wiring, downloads, and more!

Breathe easy - we finally have an I2C VOC/eCO2 sensor in the Adafruit shop! Add air quality monitoring to your project and with an Adafruit CCS811 Air Quality Sensor Breakout. This sensor from AMS is a gas sensor that can detect a wide range of Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) and is intended for indoor air quality monitoring. When connected to your microcontroller (running our library code) it will return a Total Volatile Organic Compound (TVOC) reading and an equivalent carbon dioxide reading (eCO2) over I2C. There is also an onboard thermistor that can be used to calculate the local ambient temperature.

The CCS811 has a 'standard' hot-plate MOX sensor, as well as a small microcontroller that controls power to the plate, reads the analog voltage, and provides an I2C interface to read from.

This part will measure eCO2 (equivalent calculated carbon-dioxide) concentration within a range of 400 to 8192 parts per million (ppm), and TVOC (Total Volatile Organic Compound) concentration within a range of 0 to 1187 parts per billion (ppb). According to the fact sheet it can detect Alcohols, Aldehydes, Ketones, Organic Acids, Amines, Aliphatic and Aromatic Hydrocarbons. We include a 10K NTC thermistor with matching balancing resistor which can be read by the CCS811 to calculate approximate temperature.

Please note, this sensor, like all VOC/gas sensors, has variability and to get precise measurements you will want to calibrate it against known sources! That said, for general environmental sensors, it will give you a good idea of trends and comparisons.Also, AMS recommends that you run this sensor for 48 hours when you first receive it to "burn it in", and then 20 minutes in the desired mode every time the sensor is in use. This is because the sensitivity levels of the sensor will change during early use. Finally, this chip uses I2C clock stretching, and some microcontrollers/computers don't support that (e.g. Raspberry Pi)

The CCS811 has a configurable interrupt pin that can fire when a conversion is ready and/or when a reading crosses a user-settable threshold. The CCS811 supports multiple drive modes to take a measurement every 1 second, every 10 seconds, every 60 seconds, or every 250 milliseconds.

For your convenience we've pick-and-placed the sensor on a PCB with a 3.3V regulator and some level shifting so it can be easily used with your favorite 3.3V or 5V microcontroller.

We've also prepared software libraries to get you up and running in Arduino IDE or CircuitPython with just a few lines of code! Check out our tutorial for more information!

Need to measure something damp? This epoxy-coated precision 1% 10K thermistor is an inexpensive way to measure temperature in weather or liquids. The resistance in 25 °C is 10K (+- 1%). The resistance goes down as it gets warmer and goes up as it gets cooler. For specific temperature-to-resistance, check the lookup table.These are often used for air conditioners, water lines, and other places where they can get damp. The PVC coating of the wires is good up to 105 °C so this isn't good for very hot stuff.We even toss in an additional 1% 10K resistor which you can use as calibration or for a resistor divider.We have a great detailed tutorial on how thermistors work and how to use this one with both Arduino & CircuitPython!

Add lots of touch sensors to your next microcontroller project with this easy-to-use 8-channel capacitive touch sensor breakout board, starring the CAP1188. This chip can handle up to 8 individual touch pads, and has a very nice feature that makes it stand out for us: it will light up the 8 onboard LEDs when the matching touch sensor fires to help you debug your sensor setup.The CAP1188 has support for both I2C and SPI, so it easy to use with any microcontroller. If you are using I2C, you can select one of 5 addresses, for a total of 40 capacitive touch pads on one I2C 2-wire bus. Using this chip is a lot easier than doing the capacitive sensing with analog inputs: it handles all the filtering for you and can be configured for more/less sensitivity.Comes with a fully assembled board, and a stick of 0.1" header so you can plug it into a breadboard. For contacts, we suggest using copper foil, then solder a wire that connects from the foil pad to the breakout.Getting started is a breeze with our Arduino library and tutorial. You'll be up and running in a few minutes, and if you are using another microcontroller, its easy to port our code.

CAP1188 - 8-Key Capacitive Touch Sensor Breakout - I2C or SPI (1:35)

Here's another super handy add-on for your Raspberry Pi computer, perfect for 'head-less' setups! The PiUART adds a MicroUSB to serial connection so you can use any serial port software to connect to the Pi's console. It plugs in and is fast and easy to add whenever you need to connect to your Pi. Two LEDs connect to RX and TX on the serial converter chip so you get blinking whenever data is sent or received.

We had some space left over, so the PiUART also comes with an on-off switch with a 4 Amp transistor. You can power your Pi through the microUSB port and then use the switch whenever you want to cut power, without having to unplug the cable. Low-power usage Pi's like the Pi Zero and A+ can thus be powered and controlled from a single cable connected to your computer. Heavy-hitter Pi's like the Pi 2 and Pi 3 may draw too much power from a computer USB port, so check if your motherboard has a high-current USB port before trying.

Comes fully assembled and ready to go, plug into your Pi, and on Mac OS X install the driver - within 2 minutes and you'll be ready to go.

Works with any Raspberry Pi computer (Pi 1, 2, 3, Zero, etc)

This breakout board is the simplest way to create a project with a single "toggle" capacitive touch sensor. No microcontroller is required here - just power with 1.8 to 5.5VDC and touch the pad to activate the sensor.This sensor is a toggle output type: touch-on then touch-off. That means that when a capacitive load is detected (e.g. a person touches the sensor-pad area) the red LED will alternate turning off and the output pin will go high or low, respectively. This sensor is good for a project where you want to activate something on the first touch, then deactivate it when touching again, like a switch. You can also solder a wire to the middle pad and create your own capacitive pad if the built-in one isn't suited to your project.If you want to save power, the LED can be disconnected from the output pin (cut the trace between the jumper marked as such). We designed this breakout to have infinite time-out. The chip does support having the sensor time-out, so for example, if something is turned on, it will eventually turn off on its own. If you'd like to use this mode, cut the TIMER jumper and then connect a resistor/capacitor to the TIME pin. Check the datasheet for how to calculate the TIME pin to match your desired timeout.Comes with a fully assembled board, and a small stick of 0.1" header so you can solder and plug it into a breadboard. For additional contacts, we suggest using copper foil, then solder a wire that connects from the foil pad to the breakout.The datasheet has many details on sensitivity, power usage, etc.

Standalone Toggle Capacitive Touch Sensor Breakout (11:10)

This breakout board is the simplest way to create a project with a single "momentary" capacitive touch sensor. No microcontroller is required here - just power with 1.8 to 5.5VDC and touch the pad to activate the sensor.When a capacitive load is detected (e.g. a person touches the sensor-pad area) the red LED lights up and the output pin goes high. You can also solder a wire to the middle pad and create your own capacitive pad if the built-in one isn't suited to your project.If you want to save power, the LED can be disconnected from the output pin (cut the trace between the jumper marked as such). We designed this breakout to have the more-responsive "fast mode" which draws about 0.5mA. If you need ultra-low (~50uA) power usage, the mode jumper can be cut on one side & soldered closed on the other to fix it into that mode. Check the datasheet for specific power usage measurements.Comes with a fully assembled board, and a small stick of 0.1" header so you can solder and plug it into a breadboard. For additional contacts, we suggest using copper foil, then solder a wire that connects from the foil pad to the breakout.The datasheet has many details on sensitivity, power usage, etc.

Standalone Momentary Capacitive Touch Sensor Breakout (11:10)

Adding a character display to your project or computer has never been easier with the new Adafruit USB or TTL serial backpack! This custom-designed PCB can connect to the back of any 16x2 or 20x4 character LCD and does everything you could want: printing text, automatic scrolling, setting the backlight, adjusting contrast, making custom characters, turning on and off the cursor, etc. It can even handle our RGB backlight LCDs with full 8-bit PWM control of the backlight. That means you can change the background color to anything you want - red, green, blue, pink, white, purple yellow, teal, salmon, chartreuse, or just leave it off for a neutral background. On non-RGB backlights you'll be able to dim the backlight (it's on the same pin as the 'Red' LED)

Inside this backpack is an USB-capable AT90USB162 chip that listens for commands both a mini-B USB port and a TTL serial input wire. The USB interface shows up as a COM/serial port on Windows/Mac/Linux. The backpack will automatically select data from whichever input is being used. For the USB connection, it will work at any baud rate. For the TTL connection, the default baud rate is 9600 but you can send it a command to set the baud rate to 2400, 4800, 9600, 19200, 28800, or 57600 baud. (The baud rate is flashed on the LCD during powerup). Any customizations such as baud rate, backlight color, brightness, splash screen, etc. are stored permanently EEPROM.The command interface is compatible with the popular "Matrix Orbital" specifications so this backpack will work perfectly with computer applications or libraries that are expecting a "Matrix" LCD such as "LCD Smartie". We added a few extra commands for the RGB backlight and setting the LCD size. If you don't want to use the commands, you can just start sending ASCII to the LCD and it will magically appear as typed.

Does not include an LCD module! You'll need to pick out an LCD from the shop and solder it on the back.

Long gone are the days of parallel ports and serial ports. Now the USB port reigns supreme! But USB is hard, and you just want to transfer your every-day serial data from a microcontroller to computer. What now? Enter the Adafruit CP2104 Friend!

This is a high-quality CP2104 USB-Serial chip that can upload code at a blistering 2Mbit/s for fast development time. It also has auto-reset for Arduino/ATmega328 boards so no noodling with pins and reset button pressings. The CP2104 has better driver support than the CH340 and can do very high speeds, and variable speeds without stability issues. Compared to the FT232RL and FT231X, the CP2104 has the same capabilities or better, at a great price! It even has the RX/TX LEDs to help you debug your data, they'll blink when the chip receives/transmits data.

By default, we've set it up so that it matches our FTDI cables. The 6th pin is RTS, the power wire is +5V and the signal levels are 3.3V (they are 5V compliant, and should work in the vast majority of 3.3V and 5V signal systems). Works excellently with any Arduino, ESP8266, ESP32 or any other microcontroller that uses an 'FTDI port' for communications and upload. You can also purchase a 6-pin extension cable from us, which will let you rearrange the wire order.

There's also a full collection of all the modem control pins you may need on the side, in case you need the DTR, RI, DSR, etc. pins.

Each order comes with a fully assembled and tested board. We give you a right-angle socket header and some male header strip. You can solder in the socket header on the edge to make it 'FTDI-like' or solder the male headers in to plug it into a breadboard and get access to all the pins.

For Linux you won't need a driver. For Windows, it will automatically grab the driver from Windows Update. For Mac OS X you can check out SiLabs driver page for the latest and greatest.

THIS IS THE LATEST VERSION 2.1The ChronoDot RTC is an extremely accurate real time clock module, based on the DS3231 temperature compensated RTC (TCXO). It includes a CR1632 battery, which should last at least 8 years if the I2C interface is only used while the device has 5V power available. No external crystal or tuning capacitors are required.The top side of the Chronodot now features a battery holder for 16mm 3V lithium coin cells. It pairs particularly well with CR1632 batteries.Click here for documentation and example code.The DS3231 has an internal crystal and a switched bank of tuning capacitors. The temperature of the crystal is continously monitored, and the capacitors are adjusted to maintain a stable frequency. Other RTC solutions may drift minutes per month, especially in extreme temperature ranges...the ChronoDot will drift less than a minute per year. This makes the ChronoDot very well suited for time critical applications that cannot be regularly synchronized to an external clock.The ChronoDot will plug into a standard solderless breadboard and also has mounting holes for chassis installation.The I2C interface is very straightforward and virtually identical to the register addresses of the popular DS1337 and DS1307 RTCs, which means that existing code for the Arduino, Basic Stamp, Cubloc, and other controllers should work with no modification. This new version has a battery holder, no soldering required!

The datasheet for the DS3231 explains that this part is an "Extremely Accurate I²C-Integrated RTC/TCXO/Crystal". And, hey, it does exactly what it says on the tin! This Real Time Clock (RTC) is the most precise you can get in a small, low power package.

Most RTCs use an external 32kHz timing crystal that is used to keep time with low current draw. And that's all well and good, but those crystals have slight drift, particularly when the temperature changes (the temperature changes the oscillation frequency very very very slightly but it does add up!) This RTC is in a beefy package because the crystal is inside the chip! And right next to the integrated crystal is a temperature sensor. That sensor compensates for the frequency changes by adding or removing clock ticks so that the timekeeping stays on schedule.

This is the finest RTC you can get, and now we have it in a compact, breadboard-friendly breakout. With a coin cell plugged into the back, you can get years of precision timekeeping, even when main power is lost. Great for datalogging and clocks, or anything where you need to really know the time.

Comes as a fully assembled and tested breakout plus a small piece of header. You can solder header in to plug it into a breadboard, or solder wires directly.

A coin cell is required to use the battery-backup capabilities! We don't include one by default, to make shipping easier for those abroad, but we do stock them so pick one up or use any CR1220 you have handy.

Check out our detailed tutorial for pinouts, assembly, wiring & code for both Arduino and CircuitPython, and more!

This is a great battery-backed real time clock (RTC) that allows your microcontroller project to keep track of time even if it is reprogrammed, or if the power is lost. Perfect for datalogging, clock-building, time stamping, timers and alarms, etc. The DS1307 is the most popular RTC - but it requires 5V power to work (although we've used it with 5V power and 3.3V logic successfully)

Works great with an Arduino using our RTC library or with a Raspberry Pi (or similar single board linux computer)

PCB & header are included

Plugs into any breadboard, or you can use wires

Two mounting holes

Will keep time for 5 years or more

Note: This product does not come with a CR1220 coin cell battery. We recommend you purchase a coin cell battery to use with this product.

The DS1307 is simple and inexpensive but not a high precision device. It may lose or gain up to 2 seconds a day. For a high-precision, temperature compensated alternative, please check out the DS3231 precision RTC. If you do not need a DS1307, or you need a 3.3V-power/logic capable RTC please check out our affordable PCF8523 RTC breakout

Check out our detailed guide for wiring diagrams, schematics, fritzing objects, library code and more!

For microcontrollers without an analog-to-digital converter or when you want a higher-precision ADC, the ADS1115 provides 16-bit precision at 860 samples/second over I2C. The chip can be configured as 4 single-ended input channels, or two differential channels. As a nice bonus, it even includes a programmable gain amplifier, up to x16, to help boost up smaller single/differential signals to the full range. We like this ADC because it can run from 2V to 5V power/logic, can measure a large range of signals and its super easy to use. It is a great general purpose 16 bit converter.The chip's fairly small so it comes on a breakout board with ferrites to keep the AVDD and AGND quiet. Interfacing is done via I2C. The address can be changed to one of four options (see the datasheet table 5) so you can have up to 4 ADS1115's connected on a single 2-wire I2C bus for 16 single ended inputs.

To get you started, we have example code for both the Raspberry Pi (in our Adafruit Pi Python library), Arduino (in our ADS1X15 Arduino library repository) and CircuitPython. Simply connect GND to ground, VDD to your logic power supply, and SCL/SDA to your microcontroller's I2C port and run the example code to start reading data.

Our detailed guide will get you started with wiring diagrams, example code for Arduino & CircuitPython, datasheets, and more!

Your microcontroller probably has an ADC (analog -> digital converter) but does it have a DAC (digital -> analog converter)??? Now it can! This breakout board features the easy-to-use MCP4725 12-bit DAC. Control it via I2C and send it the value you want it to output, and the VOUT pin will have it. Great for audio / analog projects, such as when you can't use PWM but need a sine wave or adjustable bias point.We break out the ADDR/A0 pin so you can connect two of these DACs on one I2C bus, just tie that pin of one high to keep it from conflicting. Also included is a 6-pin header, for use in a breadboard. Works with both 3.3V or 5V logic.Some nice extras with this chip: for chips that have 3.4Mbps Fast Mode I2C (Arduino's don't) you can update the Vout at ~200 KHz. There's an EEPROM so if you write the output voltage, you can 'store it' so if the device is power cycled it will restore that voltage. The output voltage is rail-to-rail and proportional to the power pin so if you run it from 3.3V, the output range is 0-3.3V. If you run it from 5V the output range is 0-5V.We have an easy-to-use Arduino library and tutorial with a triangle-wave and sine-wave output example that can be used with any 'duino or ported to any microcontroller with I2C host. Wiring it up is easy - connect VDD to your microcontroller power pin (3-5V), GND to ground, SDA to I2C Data (on the Arduino Uno, this is A4 on the Mega it is 20 and on the Leonardo digital 2), SCL to I2C Clock(on the Arduino Uno, this is A5 on the Mega it is 21 and on the Leonardo digital 3) and listen on VOUT.

A new collaboration between Adafruit & Micah from Scanlime, we are excited to introduce Fadecandy, a NeoPixel driver with built in dithering, that can be controlled over USB. Fadecandy is not just hardware! It is a kit of both hardware and software parts that make LED art projects easier to build and better-looking so sculptors and makers and multimedia artists can concentrate on beautiful things instead of reinventing the wheel. It's an easy way to get started and an advanced tool for professionals. It's a collection of simple parts that work well together:

Firmware that uses unique dithering and color correction algorithms to raise the bar for quality while getting out of the way of your creativity.

Open source hardware for connecting cheap and popular WS2811 based LEDs to a laptop, desktop, or Raspberry Pi over USB.

Fadecandy Server Software, which communicates with one Fadecandy board or dozens. It runs on Windows, Linux, and Mac OS, and on embedded platforms like Raspberry Pi.

The Open Pixel Control protocol, a simple way of getting pixel data from your creative tools into the Fadecandy server.

Libraries and examples for popular languages. We have Python and Processing already, with Javascript and Max coming soon.

LEDs! Fadecandy works with Adafruit's popular WS2811/WS2812 LEDs. Each controller board supports up to 512 LEDs, arranged as 8 strips of 64 each. Not for use with RGBW NeoPixels, you can only use RGB type at this time.

Headers are not included but we have tons of different kinds of dual header in the shop if you want to solder something into the pads.Fadecandy is designed to enable art that is subtle, interactive, and playful - exploring the interplay between light, form, and shadow. If you’re tired of seeing project after project with frenetic blinky rainbow fades, you’ll appreciate how easy it is to create expressive lighting!It's also battle tested! The firmware was originally developed to run the Ardent Mobile Cloud Platform, a Burning Man project which used 2500 LEDs to project ever-changing rolling cloud patterns onto the interior of a translucent plastic sculpture. It used five Fadecandy boards, a single Raspberry Pi, and the effects were written in a mixture of C and Python. The lighting on this project blew people away, and it made me realize just how much potential there is for creative lighting, but it takes significant technical drudgery to get beyond frenetic-rainbow-fade into territory where the lighting can really add to an art piece instead of distracting from it. How it's made - Ladyada and Micah Scott manufacturing Fadecandy at Adafruit.

FadeCandy - Dithering USB-Controlled Driver for NeoPixels (18:41)

Control Electronics quickly and easily with a tiny USB stick that runs JavaScript - introducing the Espruino Pico! Dig in to the JavaScript of things, with a mini version of the popular Espruino board we already carry

This little board has an STM32 microcontroller pre-programmed with Espruino all ready to go so you can start playing immediately. Warning: if you only use Assembly and think that even embedded C/C++ is for wimps, this device might explody your head.

Essential Features:

22 GPIO pins: 9 analog inputs, 21 PWM, 2 serial, 3 SPI, 3 I2C

All GPIO is 3.3V but 5 volt tolerant

2 rows of 9 0.1" pins, with a third 0.05" row of 8 pins on the end

On-board USB "PCB Type" connector, plugs right into any computer USB port

Two on-board LEDs and one button

STM32F401CDU6 CPU - ARM Cortex

On-board 3.3v 250mA voltage regulator, accepts voltages from 3.5v to 16v

Current draw in sleep: < 0.05mA - over 2.5 years on a 2500mAh battery

On-board FET can be used to drive high-current outputs

Note: As of Friday, October 2nd, 2015 we are selling the updated Pico with both a more helpful silkscreen marking for power, an updated USB power diode, and a 500mA polyfuse added!

The Espruino Pico is a USB stick with a tiny computer and JavaScript interpreter built in, allowing for instant feedback from whatever device you're working with. Simply set up your code with the Espruino and send it to the device without having to wait for the board to 'flash.'

The Pico is also designed to be easy to include in your own designs and builds. The .01" pins are easy to fit in to sockets, and castellated edges mean that unpinned Picos can easily be surface-mounted directly to a PCB. And to make it even easier, Espruino provided a part library for Eagle CAD that includes the Pico's footprint in several different configurations.The Espruino Pico's fast response time has a lot of advantages. It allows for quick and easy debugging and is a great way to test your project before your big reveal. In addition, you can control the Espruino from almost anything - Windows, Mac OS, Linux, RasPi, Android, anything that can talk to a USB Serial port.The Espruino family also interacts well with our NeoPixels. For more info, check out Espruino's page on the WS2811 and WS2812.While the main advantage of the Espruino is its instant execution, it can also be used as a traditional board through a Web-based IDE hosted on your computer. The microcontroller also uses less power than Linux Boards (although its of course a lot less powerful as well) so will run longer on battery power, it has loads of IO pins, and it can be used as an IO board for PCs, Macs, or Rasp Pis without having to program it first. Simply take the Espruino out of its packaging and get started! There's also much more info on the Espruino Pico page including tutorials, code examples, manuals, datasheets, and more!

Wouldn't it be cool to drive a tiny OLED display, read a color sensor, or even just flash some LEDs directly from your computer?  Sure you can program an Arduino or Trinket to talk to these devices and your computer, but why can't your computer just talk to those devices and sensors itself?  Well, now your computer can talk to devices using the Adafruit FT232H breakout board!

What can the FT232H chip do?  This chip from FTDI is similar to their USB to serial converter chips but adds a 'multi-protocol synchronous serial engine' which allows it to speak many common protocols like SPI, I2C, serial UART, JTAG, and more!  There's even a handful of digital GPIO pins that you can read and write to do things like flash LEDs, read switches or buttons, and more.  The FT232H breakout is like adding a little swiss army knife for serial protocols to your computer!

This chip is powerful and useful to have when you want to use Python (for example) to quickly iterate and test a device that uses I2C, SPI or plain general purpose I/O. There's no firmware to deal with, so you don't have to deal with how to "send data to and from an Arduino which is then sent to and from" an electronic sensor or display or part.

This breakout has an FT232H chip and an EEPROM for onboard configuration. You can read tons more about this chip from FTDI's page and check out our tutorial on how to get started and use our Python code to control the FT232H with Mac/Win/Linux.

The DRV2605 from TI is a fancy little motor driver. Rather than controlling a stepper motor or DC motor, its designed specifically for controlling haptic motors - buzzers and vibration motors. Normally one would just turn those kinds of motors on and off, but this driver has the ability to have various effects when driving a vibe motor. For example, ramping the vibration level up and down, 'click' effects, different buzzer levels, or even having the vibration follow a musical/audio input.

This chip is controlled over I2C - after initialization, a 'string' of multiple effects can be strung together in the chips memory and then triggered to actuate in a row. The built in effects are much much nicer than just 'on' and 'off' and will make your haptic project way nicer feeling.

According to the product page, it can be used with both LRA (Linear Resonance Actuator) and ERM (Eccentric Rotating Mass) type motors but we have only used it with our little vibration pancake ERM.

We put this nice chip onto a breakout board. it works with both 3V and 5V power/logic, we have code specifically for Arduino but porting it to any I2C-capable processor should be quite simple. Check it out and get buzzing!

You just found the perfect I2C sensor, and you want to wire up two or three or more of them to your Arduino when you realize "Uh oh, this chip has a fixed I2C address, and from what I know about I2C, you cannot have two devices with the same address on the same SDA/SCL pins!" Are you out of luck? You would be, if you didn't have this ultra-cool TCA9548A 1-to-8 I2C multiplexer!

Finally, a way to get up to 8 same-address I2C devices hooked up to one microcontroller - this multiplexer acts as a gatekeeper, shuttling the commands to the selected set of I2C pins with your command.

Using it is fairly straight-forward: the multiplexer itself is on I2C address 0x70 (but can be adjusted from 0x70 to 0x77) and you simply write a single byte with the desired multiplexed output number to that port, and bam - any future I2C packets will get sent to that port. In theory, you could have 8 of these multiplexers on each of 0x70-0x77 addresses in order to control 64 of the same-I2C-addressed-part.

Like all Adafruit breakouts, we put this nice chip on a breakout for you so you can use it on a breadboard with capacitors, and pullups and pulldowns to make usage a snap. Some header is required and once soldered in you can plug it into a solderless-breadboard. The chip itself is 3V and 5V compliant so you can use it with any logic level.

We even wrote up a nice tutorial with wiring diagrams, schematics and examples to get you running in 10 minutes!

Electronics and water don't usually mix - which is why liquid level sensing projects can be a little challenging. You can DIY a sensor but keeping it clean and un-oxidized can be a pain. The Optomax Digital liquid level switches are a clever solution for when you need a small sensor to detect liquid/water: super easy to use and very durable too!

Inside the plastic sensor casing is an infrared (IR) LED and matching photo transistor. When in the open air, the IR light bounces back to the sensor so you know its nice and dry. When the sensing tip is immersed in liquid, the IR light escapes, and the transistor turns off. The sensor can detect the presence or absence of almost any liquid type; oil or water based. It is insensitive to ambient light and is not affected by foam when in air or by small bubbles when in liquid.

The microcontroller-friendly logic level output is push-pull type, and can sink and source up to 100mA at a supply voltage range of 4.5 to 15.4VDC - so you can even use it to directly control a transistor or perhaps even a small relay.

Simply connect the Blue/Black wire to ground, the Red wire to 4.5-15.4VDC and look at the output with your multimeter or microcontroller. When dry the output is the same as the red wire. When wet, the output is 0V. Note they're pretty sensitive, any liquid on the sensor (e.g. droplets on the surface) can trigger it.

Comes in a chemically resistant Polysulfone housing material – the standard choice for most applications – for external sensor mounting and for use in standard operating temperature ranges (-25 to 80°C).

Features:

Reverse polarity, ESD and transient over-voltage protected

Wide supply voltage range

Push-pull output, capable of sinking or sourcing up to 100mA, can directly drive small loads

Solid state, fully enclosed, so no moving parts to cause unreliability

Small in size so they can be installed in applications where space is limited

Can detect tiny amounts of liquid when positioned correctly, ideal for leak detection

Fast response time

Repeatable switching point

Built-in output delays available on request for applications where sloshing causes intermittent switching

Very robust permitting use in a wide range of fluids and chemicals

See datasheet in Technical Details for more specs and info! 

Measure liquid/water flow for your solar, computer cooling, or gardening project using this handy basic flow meter. This sensor sit in line with your water line, and uses a pinwheel sensor to measure how much liquid has moved through it. The pinwheel has a little magnet attached, and there's a hall effect magnetic sensor on the other side of the plastic tube that can measure how many spins the pinwheel has made through the plastic wall. This method allows the sensor to stay safe and dry.The sensor comes with three wires: red (5-24VDC power), black (ground) and yellow (Hall effect pulse output). By counting the pulses from the output of the sensor, you can easily track fluid movement: each pulse is approximately 2.25 milliliters. Note this isn't a precision sensor, and the pulse rate does vary a bit depending on the flow rate, fluid pressure and sensor orientation. It will need careful calibration if better than 10% precision is required. However, its great for basic measurement tasks!We have an example Arduino sketch that can be used to quickly test the sensor - it will calculate the approximate quantity of fluid in liters and display on an LCD or the serial monitor.

Take your next ourdoor sensor project to the next level with a SHT-10 based temperature/humidity sensor. The sensor includes a dual-use sensor module from Sensiron in a sintered metal mesh encasing. The casing is weatherproof and will keep water from seeping into the body of the sensor and damaging it, but allows air to pass through so that it can measure the humidity outside. While it is designed to be submersible in water, it's always best to avoid long-term (over 1 hour at a time) submersion, and it obviously would only give you temperature readings. For that, our metal-cased temperature sensors would be better! This sensor is best for simply placing outside for exterior weather sensing.Humidity readings have 4.5% precision, temperature is 0.5% precision. A microcontroller is required to interface. The sensor is not washed after reflow and is rehydrated according to datasheet requirements.The sensor is essentially just a Sensiron SHT-10 with the 4 data/power wires brought out so any SHT-1X code for a microcontroller will work. The sensor works with 3 or 5V logic. The 1 meter long cable has four wires: Red = VCC (3-5VDC), Black or Green = Ground, Yellow = Clock, Blue = Data. For Arduino, there's a handy Sensiron library with example. For Propeller, there's an SHT1X sensor object. Don't forget to connect a 10K resistor from the blue Data line to VCC.

Soil Temperature/Moisture Sensor (8:52)

This is a pre-wired and waterproofed version of the DS18B20 sensor. Handy for when you need to measure something far away, or in wet conditions. While the sensor is good up to 125°C the cable is jacketed in PVC so we suggest keeping it under 100°C. Because they are digital, you don't get any signal degradation even over long distances! These 1-wire digital temperature sensors are fairly precise (±0.5°C over much of the range) and can give up to 12 bits of precision from the onboard digital-to-analog converter. They work great with any microcontroller using a single digital pin, and you can even connect multiple ones to the same pin, each one has a unique 64-bit ID burned in at the factory to differentiate them. Usable with 3.0-5.0V systems.The only downside is they use the Dallas 1-Wire protocol, which is somewhat complex, and requires a bunch of code to parse out the communication. If you want something really simple, and you have an analog input pin, the TMP36 is trivial to get going.We toss in a 4.7k resistor, which is required as a pullup from the DATA to VCC line when using the sensor. We don't have a detailed tutorial up yet but you can get started by using the Dallas Temperature Control Arduino library which requires also the OneWire Library.

This sensor is essentially a reed switch, encased in an ABS plastic shell. Normally the reed is 'open' (no connection between the two wires). The other half is a magnet. When the magnet is less than 13mm (0.5") away, the reed switch closes. They're often used to detect when a door or drawer is open, which is why they have mounting tabs and screws. You can also pick up some double-sided foam tape from a hardware store to mount these, that works well without needing screws.

Give your 40 pin, 0.5mm pitch, devices a strrrreeeetch with this extension board.  This 40pin FPC extension board has two 40-pin flex connectors (both are bottom contact type), and an extension cable to add ~22cm (20cm cable plus 2cm board)  Each order comes with one board a 20cm long, 40-pin 0.5mm pitch FPC cable and board. Works great with our 40pin TFTs!

This cable will let you swap out the stock 150mm long flex cable from a Raspberry Pi Camera (either 'classic' or 'NoIR' type) or Raspberry Pi Display for a different size. Works great, just carefully open the connector on the Pi and slip this one in.

This cable is 2 meters long. We have cables in a ton of sizes so you can have the perfect fit. Each order comes with one cable, Pi Camera not included (but we have those in the shop as well)

Please note, we did test this length cable with our Pi Model B/B+ and a Pi Camera and it worked great but 2 meters is really long for this kind of camera protocol, so if you have a very electrically noisy environment (inside a tesla coil?) you may have corrupted images.

The first 'official' Pi Zero case from the Raspberry Pi Foundation is here in Raspberry Pi's sleek pink and white! While we've had our own classic Pi Zero case for a little while now, the Pi Foundation celebrates the release of the Pi Zero W with this impressive, well-designed effort that is definitely what we've come to expect from the folks who made the Raspberry Pi.

The case comes in four parts – a pink base and three different options for the top of the case, all of which are white. You can snap on lids according to how you're using your Pi Zero. If you want to utilize your Pi Zero's GPIO pins, there's one lid with a cut-out above the pins for more flexibility. Or, if you're not a fan of seeing your Pi, there's a white lid that conveniently fills in the gap. Lastly, there's a neat lid with a small circular hole in the center for snapping in a Raspberry Pi Camera Board!

This case's smart design and customizability makes it a worthy addition to the Pi case genre! It also comes with a little bonus: a 1.5" mini camera cable! Great if you want to add a Pi Camera to your Zero W or v1.3, it's a compact alternative to the standard lengthier cable.

This product includes the case base with three lids, mini camera cable, and rubber bumper feet. It does not come with a Raspberry Pi or other components. It's designed for the Pi Zero W but will also work with Pi Zero v1.3. We also offer the Pi Foundation's official case for the Pi 3, B+ and Pi 2.

What is better than smart RGB LEDs? Smart RGB+White LEDs! These NeoPixels now have 4 LEDs in them (red, green, blue and white) for excellent lighting effects. Round and round and round they go!  

This is the NeoPixel 1/4 60 LED Ring in Cool White. We have a ton of other NeoPixel rings in the store to check out!

With four of these you can make a huge ring with 60 ultra bright smart LED NeoPixels are arranged in a circle with a 6.2" diameter. Each order comes with just the quarter ring. Four of this item are required to make a large ring. You will have to solder them together as well, so for the full ring of 60 LEDs, buy four and solder them together!

The rings are 'chainable' - connect the output pin of one to the input pin of another. Use only one microcontroller pin to control as many as you can chain together! Each LED is addressable as the driver chip is inside the LED. Each one has ~18mA constant current drive so the color will be very consistent even if the voltage varies, and no external choke resistors are required making the design slim. Power the whole thing with 5VDC and you're ready to rock.

The NeoPixel is 'split', one half is the RGB you know and love, the other half is a white LED with a yellow phosphor. Unlit, it resembles an egg yolk. Lit up these are insanely bright (like ow my eye hurts) and can be controlled with 8-bit PWM per channel (8 x 4 channels = 32-bit color overall). Great for adding lots of colorful + white dots to your project!

NeoPixel LEDs use 800 KHz protocol so specific timing is required. On NeoPixels, the PWM rate is ~400 Hz, which works well but is noticable if the LED is moving. In comparison, DotStars have a 20 KHz PWM rate, so even when moving the LED around, you won't see the pixelation, the blending is very smooth. (we recommend DotStars if you can use them)

NeoPixels are 5050-sized LEDs with an embedded microcontroller inside the LED. You can set the brightness and color of each R/G/B/W with 8-bit PWM precision (so 32-bit color per pixel). The LEDs are controlled by shift-registers and only 1 digital output pin are required to send data down. The PWM is built into each LED-chip so once you set the color you can stop talking to the ring and it will continue to PWM all the LEDs for you.

We have a tutorial showing wiring, power usage calculations, example code for usage, etc. for NeoPixel Please check it out! Please note you will need a NeoPixel library with RGBW support which is not always available. If you try to control these with a plain 'RGB' NeoPixel library, you'll get very weird results. Our Adafruit NeoPixel library does support RGBW but if you're using something else, just be aware that it might require some hacking.

Our detailed NeoPixel Uberguide has everything you need to use NeoPixels in any shape and size. Including ready-to-go library & example code for the Arduino UNO/Duemilanove/Diecimila, Flora/Micro/Leonardo, Trinket/Gemma, Arduino Due & Arduino Mega/ADK (all versions)

Comes with one quarter ring of 15 x individually addressable RGB LEDs assembled and tested. We recommend you buy four to build the full circle as this is just the 1/4 of the circle.

What is better than smart RGB LEDs? Smart RGB+White LEDs! These NeoPixel rings now have 4 LEDs in them (red, green, blue and white) for excellent lighting effects. Round and round and round they go!  

This is the 24 LED RGBW NeoPixel Ring in Cool White. We have a ton of other NeoPixel rings in the store to check out!

24 ultra bright smart LED NeoPixels are arranged in a circle with 2.58" (65.5mm) outer diameter. The rings are 'chainable' - connect the output pin of one to the input pin of another. Use only one microcontroller pin to control as many as you can chain together! Each LED is addressable as the driver chip is inside the LED. Each one has ~18mA constant current drive so the color will be very consistent even if the voltage varies, and no external choke resistors are required making the design slim. Power the whole thing with 5VDC and you're ready to rock.

The NeoPixel is 'split', one half is the RGB you know and love, the other half is a white LED with a yellow phosphor. Unlit, it resembles an egg yolk. Lit up these are insanely bright (like ow my eye hurts) and can be controlled with 8-bit PWM per channel (8 x 4 channels = 32-bit color overall). Great for adding lots of colorful + white dots to your project!

NeoPixel LEDs use 800 KHz protocol so specific timing is required. On NeoPixels, the PWM rate is ~400 Hz, which works well but is noticable if the LED is moving. In comparison, DotStars have a 20 KHz PWM rate, so even when moving the LED around, you won't see the pixelation, the blending is very smooth. (we recommend DotStars if you can use them)

NeoPixels are 5050-sized LEDs with an embedded microcontroller inside the LED. You can set the brightness and color of each R/G/B/W with 8-bit PWM precision (so 32-bit color per pixel). The LEDs are controlled by shift-registers and only 1 digital output pin are required to send data down. The PWM is built into each LED-chip so once you set the color you can stop talking to the ring and it will continue to PWM all the LEDs for you.

We have a tutorial showing wiring, power usage calculations, example code for usage, etc. for NeoPixel Please check it out! Please note you will need a NeoPixel library with RGBW support which is not always available. If you try to control these with a plain 'RGB' NeoPixel library, you'll get very weird results. Our Adafruit NeoPixel library does support RGBW but if you're using something else, just be aware that it might require some hacking.

Our detailed NeoPixel Uberguide has everything you need to use NeoPixels in any shape and size. Including ready-to-go library & example code for the Arduino UNO/Duemilanove/Diecimila, Flora/Micro/Leonardo, Trinket/Gemma, Arduino Due & Arduino Mega/ADK (all versions)

Comes as a single ring with 24 individually addressable RGBW LEDs assembled and tested.

Add some dazzle to your Spark Core or Photon with this custom-made NeoPixel ring kit! 24 ultra bright smart LED NeoPixels are arranged in a circle with 2.6" (66mm) outer diameter. Snap in your Spark and upload the NeoPixel library code to light up the LEDs, make an Internet of Blinky! Each LED is addressable as the driver chip is inside the LED. Each one has ~18mA constant current drive so the color will be very consistent even if the voltage varies, and no external choke resistors are required making the design slim. Power the whole thing with about 3.5-5.5 VDC battery pack and you're ready to rock.

To make your project portable, we have a JST connector for attaching an external battery. Power with 3.5 - 5.5V DC, a rechargeable LiPoly or LiIon cell battery works great, or 3xAAA or 3xAA battery pack. The JST included is so you can make your own battery connection. Use pin D6 for the NeoPixel library code, all other pins are availale to use and have two breakouts on either side so you can wire up other sensors or devices.

Comes as a single round PCB with 24 individually addressable RGB LEDs assembled and tested, two 12 pin 0.1" socket headers and a bonus JST cable. Some light soldering is required, you can solder the two sockets in place to allow unplugging of the Spark, or just solder it directly in place for a slimmer look.

Please Note: Particle (Spark) Core/Photon and Battery not included (but we do have them in the shop!)

These LED strips are ultra bright, fun and glowy. There are 60 cool white LEDs per meter, and you can control the entire strip at once with any microcontroller and a power transistor. The way they are wired, you will need a 9-12VDC power supply and connect directly. If you want to dim the strip, use any NPN or N-channel MOSFET (although the big powerful kind is good for a large strip) and PWM the input.We splurged and got the weatherproof kind with white background color. There's a 3M adhesive strip on the back which should stick to most smooth surfaces. Great for architectural lighting (under-counter or under-cabinet), decorating your bicycle or car, making lamps, etc. You'll need a lot of power to light these up, we suggest our 12V 5A supply. To connect it to a power supply, pick up a 2.1mm female jack and wire it to the strip with some heat shrink. For portable use, we suggest a 8xAA battery holderPlease Note: these strips are weatherproof so they'll be more rugged than uncoated strips, but they not designed for long term submersion in water, especially chlorinated water, or exposed to UV (eg sunlight) for extended periods of time. They are for indoor use or light outdoor use without direct sun/water. That means you cannot put them into a pool, lake, aquarium, etc. The silk-screening and LED brightness of the strips may vary slightly from reel to reel. Once the adhesive backing has been removed, the strips are not returnable!You can cut this stuff pretty easily with wire cutters, there are cut-lines every 5cm (3 LEDs each), and trim off the weatherproof cover with a hobby knife. Solder to the 0.1" copper pads and you're good to go.They come in 5 meter reels and are sold by the meter! If you buy 5m at a time, you'll get full reels. If you buy less than 5m, you'll get a single strip, but it will be a cut piece from a reel which may or may not have a connector on it. If the piece comes from the end of the reel, the connector may be on the output end of the strip!We don't have a tutorial specifically for the white LED strips but they're basically identical to the RGB LED strips we carry, except that instead of 3 different colored LEDs there is only cool white so we suggest our tutorial on thoseWhen purchasing a full reel, there will be two wires on either side you can connect directly to 12V. Be sure to try both 'directions' as the wire colors do not necessarily indicate which wire is the ground wire. It will not damage the strip if you connect it backwards so if it isn't lighting, try the other way! When purchasing a smaller piece, if you have 4 pads labeled RGB connect the RGB pads together and tie those to ground and connect the 12V+ pad to 12VDC

Move over NeoPixels, there's a new LED strip in town! These fancy new DotStar LED strips are a great upgrade for people who have loved and used NeoPixel strips for a few years but want something even better. DotStar LEDs use generic 2-wire SPI, so you can push data much faster than with the NeoPixel 800 KHz protocol and there's no specific timing required. They also have much higher PWM refresh rates, so  you can do Persistence-of-Vision (POV) and have less flickering, particularly at low brightness levels.

Make your own smart Cool White LED arrangement with the same integrated LED driver that is used in our DotStar or NeoPixel LED strips.  Unlit, the color resembles a yellow Starburst. Lit up these are insanely bright (like ow my eye hurts) and can be controlled with 24 bit high-frequency PWM. The phosphor helps diffuse the 3 white dies inside together for a very bright but consistant light, compared to what you get by trying to mix RGB to make white (which never quite looks right)

However, unlike NeoPixels, these LEDs have 2 wires (input and output) for sending data - one clock pin and one data pin. That means you need two pins, not one, to control DotStars. Because the clock and data is separated, you can use any processor speed or type to control these strips, and you don't have to worry about being careful with the timing. Hardware SPI support is handy but not required. This makes them excellent for use with any microcontroller or microprocessor, including Arduino, Raspberry Pi, BeagleBone, Propeller, SparkCore, and any 'raw' microcontrollers/microprocessors. It's very easy to port the library, and you can send data to the pixels at up to 32MHz clock rate!

NeoPixel LEDs use 800 KHz protocol so specific timing is required. On NeoPixels, the PWM rate is 400 Hz, which works well but is noticeable if the LED is moving. In comparison, DotStars have a 20 KHz PWM rate, so even when moving the LED around, you won't see the pixelation, the blending is very smooth. (we recommend DotStars if you can use them!)

This is the 60 LED-per-meter version of our DotStar strips, on white flex PCB. We also have this in Warm White and RGB full color.

The strip is made of flexible PCB material, and comes with a weatherproof sheathing. You can cut this stuff pretty easily with wire cutters, there are cut-lines every 1 LED. Solder to the 0.1" copper pads and you're good to go. Of course, you can also connect strips together to make them longer, just watch how much current you need! We have a 5V 4A power supply that can drive a half meter or meter, a 5V/10A supply that can drive a couple meters (depending on use) You must use a 5V DC power supply to power these strips, do not use higher than 6V or you can destroy the entire strip

These strips come in 4 meter reels with a 4-pin JST SM connector on each end. These strips are sold by the meter! If you buy 4 meters at a time, you'll get full reels with two connectors. If you buy less than 4m, you'll get a single strip, but it will be a cut piece from a reel which may or may not have a connector on it. If the piece comes from the end of the reel, the connector may be on the output end of the strip!

To wire up these strips we suggest picking up some JST SM plug and receptacle cables for the signal wires  For the power wires, you will also probably want a 2.1mm DC jack to wire in so you can connect one of our 5V wall adapters to power it.

We have a tutorial showing wiring, power usage calculations, example code for usage, etc. Please check it out!

Move over NeoPixels, there's a new LED strip in town! These fancy new DotStar LED strips are a great upgrade for people who have loved and used NeoPixel strips for a few years but want something even better. DotStar LEDs use generic 2-wire SPI, so you can push data much faster than with the NeoPixel 800 KHz protocol and there's no specific timing required. They also have much higher PWM refresh rates, so  you can do Persistence-of-Vision (POV) and have less flickering, particularly at low brightness levels.

Make your own smart Cool White LED arrangement with the same integrated LED driver that is used in our DotStar or NeoPixel LED strips.  Unlit, the color resembles a yellow Starburst. Lit up these are insanely bright (like ow my eye hurts) and can be controlled with 24 bit high-frequency PWM. The phosphor helps diffuse the 3 white dies inside together for a very bright but consistant light, compared to what you get by trying to mix RGB to make white (which never quite looks right)

However, unlike NeoPixels, these LEDs have 2 wires (input and output) for sending data - one clock pin and one data pin. That means you need two pins, not one, to control DotStars. Because the clock and data is separated, you can use any processor speed or type to control these strips, and you don't have to worry about being careful with the timing. Hardware SPI support is handy but not required. This makes them excellent for use with any microcontroller or microprocessor, including Arduino, Raspberry Pi, BeagleBone, Propeller, SparkCore, and any 'raw' microcontrollers/microprocessors. It's very easy to port the library, and you can send data to the pixels at up to 32MHz clock rate!

NeoPixel LEDs use 800 KHz protocol so specific timing is required. On NeoPixels, the PWM rate is 400 Hz, which works well but is noticeable if the LED is moving. In comparison, DotStars have a 20 KHz PWM rate, so even when moving the LED around, you won't see the pixelation, the blending is very smooth. (we recommend DotStars if you can use them!)

This is the 30 LED-per-meter version of our DotStar strips, on white flex PCB. We also have this in Warm White and RGB full color.

The strip is made of flexible PCB material, and comes with a weatherproof sheathing. You can cut this stuff pretty easily with wire cutters, there are cut-lines every 1 LED. Solder to the 0.1" copper pads and you're good to go. Of course, you can also connect strips together to make them longer, just watch how much current you need! We have a 5V 4A power supply that can drive a half meter or meter, a 5V/10A supply that can drive a couple meters (depending on use) You must use a 5V DC power supply to power these strips, do not use higher than 6V or you can destroy the entire strip

These strips come in 5 meter reels with a 4-pin JST SM connector on each end. These strips are sold by the meter! If you buy 5 meters at a time, you'll get full reels with two connectors. If you buy less than 5m, you'll get a single strip, but it will be a cut piece from a reel which may or may not have a connector on it. If the piece comes from the end of the reel, the connector may be on the output end of the strip!

To wire up these strips we suggest picking up some JST SM plug and receptacle cables for the signal wires  For the power wires, you will also probably want a 2.1mm DC jack to wire in so you can connect one of our 5V wall adapters to power it.

We have a tutorial showing wiring, power usage calculations, example code for usage, etc. Please check it out!

PIR sensors are used to detect motion from pets/humanoids from about 20 feet away (possibly works on zombies, not guaranteed). This one has an adjustable delay before firing (approx 2-4 seconds), adjustable sensitivity and we include a 1 foot (30 cm) cable with a socket so you can easily reposition the sensor or mount it using the two holes on either side.

Runs on 5V-12V power (if you need to run it off of 3V you can do that by bypassing the regulator, but that means doing a bit of soldering). Digital signal output is 3.3V high/low. Sensing range is about 7 meters (120 degree cone).For a full tutorial with wiring diagrams, CircuitPython and Arduino code examples and project ideas, PIR sensor tutorial page!

Solenoids are basically electromagnets: they are made of a big coil of copper wire with an armature (a slug of metal) in the middle. When the coil is energized, the slug is pulled into the center of the coil. This makes the solenoid able to pull (from one end) or push (from the other)This solenoid in particular is fairly small, with a 30mm long body and a 'captive' armature with a return spring. This means that when activated with up to 12VDC, the solenoid moves and then the voltage is removed it springs back to the original position, which is quite handy. Many lower cost solenoids are only push type or only pull type and may not have a captive armature (it'll fall out!) or don't have a return spring. This one even has nice mounting tabs, its a great all-purpose solenoid.To drive a solenoid you will need a power transistor and a diode, check this diagram for how to wire it to an Arduino or other microcontroller. You will need a fairly good power supply to drive a solenoid, as a lot of current will rush into the solenoid to charge up the electro-magnet, about 250mA, so don't try to power it with a 9V battery!

Solenoids are basically electromagnets: they are made of a coil of copper wire with an armature (a slug of metal) in the middle. When the coil is energized, the slug is pulled into the center of the coil. This makes the solenoid able to pull (from one end) or push (from the other).

This solenoid in particular is very small, with a 20mm long body and a 'captive' armature with a return spring. This means that when activated with ~5VDC, the solenoid moves and then the voltage is removed it springs back to the original position, which is quite handy. Many lower cost solenoids are only push type or only pull type and may not have a captive armature (it'll fall out!) or don't have a return spring. This one even has nice mounting tabs, its a great all-purpose solenoid.

We also have a slightly bigger small push-pull solenoid and a huge large push-pull solenoid in the store!

To drive a solenoid you will need a power transistor and a protection diode, check this diagram for how to wire it to an Arduino or other microcontroller. You will need a fairly good power supply to drive a solenoid, as a lot of current will rush into the solenoid to charge up the electro-magnet, about 1 Amp, so be careful of trying to power/activate from a computer's USB.

A dream come true...an analog LED strip with both RGB and Warm White LEDs...It's so........bbbeeeaaaaauuuttttiiiifuuulllll!!!

These LED strips are fun and glowy. There are 60 RGB and Warm White LEDs per meter - you can control the entire strip at once with any microcontroller and three transistors. The way they are wired, you will need a 9-12VDC power supply and then ground the R/G/B/W pins to turn on the colors. Use any NPN or N-channel MOSFET (although the big powerful kind is good for a large strip) and PWM the inputs for color-mixing.

This is the 60 LED-per-meter RGB + Warm White version. We also have this in RGB + Cool White. We splurged and got the weatherproof kind with a white flexi PCB. Great for decorating your bike or art project, costuming or funky fashion.

For powering, a good 12V supply is key. The one we carry will do well for fixed installations. For portable use, we suggest a 8xAA battery holder

Please Note: these strips are weatherproof so they'll be more rugged than uncovered strips, but they not tested for long term submersion in water, especially chlorinated water, or exposed to UV (eg sunlight) for extended periods of time. They are for indoor use or light outdoor use without direct sun/water. That means you cannot put them into a pool, lake, aquarium, etc. The silk-screening and LED brightness of the strips may vary slightly from reel to reel

You can cut this stuff pretty easily with wire cutters, there are cut-lines every 5cm (3 LEDs each), and trim off the weatherproof cover. Solder to the 0.1" copper pads and you're good to go.

They come in 4 meter reels, and are sold by the meter! If you buy 4m at a time, you'll get full reels. If you buy less than 4m, you'll get a single strip, but it will be a cut piece from a reel which may or may not have a connector on it. If the piece comes from the end of the reel, the connector may be on the output end of the strip!

We have a full tutorial with details, diagrams, schematics and Arduino + CircuitPython code for using your RGBW LED strip, please check it out!

Keep it cool with a Peltier module. These unique electronic components can generate a temperature differential when powered. That is to say, apply 5V to the red (positive) and black (negative) wires and one side will get cold while the other side gets hot. For best results, you'll need to wick away that heat (otherwise the cold side will slowly get warmer). A fan and/or heatsink is ideal.This module is a 5V module, and is rated for 5W max (5V/1A) but when we plugged them in they seemed to draw more like 1.5A so we suggest our 5V/2A power adapter for use.

Peltier Thermo-Electric Cooler Module - 5V 1A (5:20)

Keep it cool with a Peltier module. These unique electronic components can generate a temperature differential when powered. That is to say, apply 12V to the red (positive) and black (negative) wires and one side will get cold while the other side gets hot. For best results, you'll need to wick away that heat (otherwise the cold side will slowly get warmer). A fan and/or heatsink is ideal.

This module is a 12V module, and is rated for ~72W max (up to 14V/6A) but when used with a regulated 12V output they don't draw more than 5A so we suggest our 12V/5A power adapter for use.

Peltier Thermo-Electric Cooler Module - 12V 5A (5:20)

This knit conductive fabric is plated with real Silver and super luxe! Use small pieces on the tips of gloves or in any soft circuit situation where you need a bit of stretch. This highly conductive fabric has a resistance of less than 1 ohm per foot in any direction across the textile. It can be used to make soft keypads and capacitive touch sensors, as well as soft "squeeze" switches. Great for use with FLORA.Sold as a 20cm x 20cm piece (minimum dimension)Use a dry iron on medium. Dry cleaning recommended. Do not use steam! Discoloration can occur.

Knit Conductive Fabric - Silver 20cm square (11:35)

This soft potentiometer is an interesting way to add an adjustable resistor / slide potentiometer to your wearable. You can use it to adjust the brightness of an LED, or as a sensor input to your Flora or Gemma. When the ring slides up and down the ribbon, the resistance from the end of the ribbon to ring will vary from ~100 ohms to about 8Kohm.

To use as a voltage-output potentiometer, connect one end to ground and the other end to 3.3V or so, then measure the voltage on the ring in reference to ground. For an adjustable resistor, connect to one end of the ribbon and the ring, let the other end  hang disconnected.

The kit includes 50cm of specially-woven conductive ribbon and a stainless steel metal ring.

Soft and stretchy, this Eeonyx Stretchy Variable Resistance Sensor fabric is great for making soft sensors or wearables that need to adjust and move. This is a bidirectionally stretchy nylon+spandex fabric coated with a long-lasting conductive coating that changes resistance when you pull on it!

It's perfect for making stretch or strain sensors, by measuring the resistance change from one end of the fabric to the other - you'll need a resistive divider and analog-reading microcontroller. Each order comes with one sheet of 12"x13" inch / 33 x 30cm fabric with a nominal 0.5mm thickness. The fabric as a soft hand, and is easy to stitch, sew, or serge. Each sheet has a resting 20K-ohm/square inch surface resistivity and decreases to maybe 1/2 that when stretched. It has been tested up to 30 washes with no appreciable change in resistivity.

The squarish board with two chips on it is the transmitter (power with 9V).  The longer board is the output and you can connect that to the part of your project that needs powering.

Inductive charging is a way of powering a device without a direct wire connection. Most people have seen inductive charging in a rechargable electric toothbrush: you may have noticed that you recharge it by placing it into the holder, but there's no direct plug. These chargers work by taking a power transformer and splitting it in half, an AC waveform is generated into one, and couples into the second coil.

This is a basic charger set, and it does work, providing 5V DC output from the output half when the input half is powered with 9V to 12VDC. You can draw as much as ~500mA if the coils are 2 or 3 mm apart. If you only need 100 or 200mA you can be up 7mm apart. For 10mA draw, the coils can be up to half an inch (12.5mm) apart. Any non-ferrous/non-conductive material (eg air, wood, leather, plastic, paper, glass) can be used between the two coils. The material doesn't affect the distance or efficiency. The coils do need to be fairly co-axial, try to get them to be parallel and have the circles line up for best power-transfer. (This is why the electric toothbrush must fit into the plastic holder, it's lining up the two coils for best efficiency)

Because its an air-core transformer, it's fairly inefficient. Only about 40% of the energy in shows up on the other end, but for low power or charging project. If you draw 5V 100mA on the output side (0.5W), you'll need 0.5W * 2.5 / 9V = ~150mA from the input end. The quiescent current is about 70mA at all time, even when the other coil is not anywhere near by.

These are basic modules, probably used for some low cost toy. We don't have any datasheets or specifications for them. We do see a feedback resistor divider on the output side using 0603 SMT resistors so an advanced user could solder in different values to turn it into a 3.3V output.

Inductive Charging Set - 5V @ 500mA max (9:19)

The squarish board with two chips on it is the transmitter (power with 9V).  The longer board is the output and you can connect that to the part of your project that needs powering.

Inductive charging is a way of powering a device without a direct wire connection. Most people have seen inductive charging in a rechargable electric toothbrush: you may have noticed that you recharge it by placing it into the holder, but there's no direct plug. These chargers work by taking a power transformer and splitting it in half, an AC waveform is generated into one, and couples into the second coil.

This is a basic charger set, and it does work, providing 3.3V DC output from the output half when the input half is powered with 9V to 12VDC. You can draw as much as 500mA if the coils are 2 or 3 mm apart. If you only need 100 or 200mA you can be up 7mm apart. For 10mA draw, the coils can be up to half an inch (12.5mm) apart. Any non-ferrous/non-conductive material (eg air, wood, leather, plastic, paper, glass) can be used between the two coils. The material doesn't affect the distance or efficiency. The coils do need to be fairly co-axial, try to get them to be parallel and have the circles line up for best power-transfer. (This is why the electric toothbrush must fit into the plastic holder, it's lining up the two coils for best efficiency.)

Because it's an air-core transformer, it's fairly inefficient. Only about 40% of the energy in shows up on the other end, but for low power or charging project. If you draw 5V 100mA on the output side (0.5W), you'll need 0.5W * 2.5 / 9V = ~150mA from the input end. The quiescent current is about 70mA at all time, even when the other coil is not anywhere near by.

These are basic modules, probably used for some low cost toy. We don't have any datasheets or specifications for them. We do see a feedback resistor divider on the output side using 0603 SMT resistors so an advanced user could solder in different values to turn it into a different valued output.

Inductive Charging Set - 3.3V @ 500mA max (0:08)

These displays are small, only about 1" diagonal, but very readable due to the high contrast of an OLED display. This display is made of 128x32 individual white OLED pixels, each one is turned on or off by the controller chip. Because the display makes its own light, no backlight is required. This reduces the power required to run the OLED and is why the display has such high contrast; we really like this miniature display for its crispness!The driver chip SSD1306, communicates via SPI only. 4 or 5 pins are required to communicate with the chip in the OLED display.The OLED and driver require a 3.3V power supply and 3.3V logic levels for communication. To make it easier for our customers to use, we've added a 3.3v regulator and level shifter on board! This makes it compatible with any 5V microcontroller, such as the Arduino.The power requirements depend a little on how much of the display is lit but on average the display uses about 20mA from the 3.3V supply. Built into the OLED driver is a simple switch-cap charge pump that turns 3.3v-5v into a high voltage drive for the OLEDs, making it one of the easiest ways to get an OLED into your project!Of course, we wouldn't leave you with a datasheet and a "good luck": We have a detailed tutorial and example code in the form of an Arduino library for text and graphics. You'll need a microcontroller with more than 512 bytes of RAM since the display must be buffered.You can download our SSD1306 OLED display Arduino library from github which comes with example code. The library can print text, bitmaps, pixels, rectangles, circles and lines. It uses 512 bytes of RAM since it needs to buffer the entire display but its very fast! The code is simple to adapt to any other microcontroller.

These displays are small, only about 1.3" diagonal, but very readable due to the high contrast of an OLED display. This display is made of 128x64 individual white OLED pixels, each one is turned on or off by the controller chip. Because the display makes its own light, no backlight is required. This reduces the power required to run the OLED and is why the display has such high contrast; we really like this miniature display for its crispness!The driver chip, SSD1306 can communicate in two ways: I2C or SPI. The OLED itself require a 3.3V power supply and 3.3V logic levels for communication, but we include a 3.3V regulator and all pins are fully level shifted so you can use with 5V devices!The power requirements depend a little on how much of the display is lit but on average the display uses about 40mA from the 3.3V supply. Built into the OLED driver is a simple switch-cap charge pump that turns 3.3v-5v into a high voltage drive for the OLEDs.We have a detailed tutorial and example code in the form of an Arduino library for text and graphics. You'll need a microcontroller with more than 1K of RAM since the display must be buffered. The library can print text, bitmaps, pixels, rectangles, circles and lines. It uses 1K of RAM since it needs to buffer the entire display but its very fast! The code is simple to adapt to any other microcontroller.

Sometimes we wonder if robotics engineers ever watch movies. If they did, they'd know that making robots into slaves always ends up in a robot rebellion. Why even go down that path? Here at Adafruit, we believe in making robots our friends!

So if you find yourself wanting a companion, consider the robot. They're fun to program, and you can get creative with decorations.

With that in mind, we designed Crickit - That's our Creative Robotics & Interactive Construction Kit. It's an add-on to our popular Feather ecosystem that lets you #MakeRobotFriend using CircuitPython, MakeCode (coming soon), or Arduino.

Plug in any Feather mainboard you want into the center, and you're good to go! The Crickit is powered by seesaw, our I2C-to-whatever bridge firmware. So you only need to use two I2C data pins to control the huge number of inputs and outputs on the Crickit. All those timers, PWMs, sensors are offloaded to the co-processor.

The only thing that is not managed by seesaw is the audio output. We provide a small jumper you can solder to connect the audio amplifier to the first analog pin. On our Feather M0's this is a true analog output (DAC) and you can play audio clips with CircuitPython or Arduino. Other Feathers may not have a DAC! In that case, you can solder a wire to jumper the audio amp to a PWM pin.

You get to use all the non-I2C signal pins on your feather and get a boat-load of extra in/out pins, motor controllers, capacitive touch sensors, a NeoPixel driver and amplified speaker output. It complements & extends your Feather so you can still use all the goodies, including stacking FeatherWings on top. But now you have a robotics playground as well.

You get:

4 x Analog or Digital Servo control, with precision 16-bit timers

2 x Bi-directional brushed DC motor control, 1 Amp current limited each, with 8-bit PWM speed control (or one stepper)

4 x High current "Darlington" 500mA drive outputs with kick-back diode protection. For solenoids, relays, large LEDs, or one uni-polar stepper

4 x Capacitive touch sensors with alligator-pads

8 x Signal pins, digital in/out or analog inputs

1 x NeoPixel driver with 5V level shifter - The NeoPixels are buffered and controlled by the seesaw chip

1 x Class D, 4-8 ohm speaker, 3W-max audio amplifier - the audio input pin is available as a solder-able pad for your configuration, you can connect it to your Feather's DAC or PWM output as you desire.

All are powered via 5V DC, so you can use any 5V-powered servos, DC motors, steppers, solenoids, relays etc. To keep things simple and safe, we don't support mixing voltages, so only 5V, not for use with 9V or 12V robotic components.

Please note this robot board does not require any soldering but you will need a power supply and a Feather to go along with the Crickit, and these are not included! We recommend also purchasing:

Any one of our Feather mainboards, powered by an ATmega328p, ATmega32u4, ATSAMD21, ATSAMD51, ESP8266, ESP32, WICED, nRF52, etc. All Feathers will work, even ones with SD cards, LoRa radios, WiFi or BTLE modules, etc. Adafruit seesaw only uses I2C and all Feather boards have I2C pins in the same location.

5V 2A power supply

If you're going to be running more than 2 large motors or servos at a time, we recommend a 5V 4A power supply

And of course we have a huge collection of all compatible motors, servos, solenoids, speakers and more in our Crickit category

Since you'll be working with high-current devices, we wanted to have a good solid power supply system that minimizes risk of damage. The power supply has an 'eFuse' management chip that will automatically turn off if the voltage goes above 5.5V or below 3V and has over-current protection at 4A. Every motor driver has kick-back protection. We think this is a nice and durable board for robotics!

Lots more details, schematics, specifications, and code examples in the (still in progress) Adafruit Learn guide.

The 7” Touchscreen Display for Raspberry Pi gives users the ability to create all-in-one, integrated projects such as tablets, infotainment systems and embedded projects!

The 800x480 display connects via an adapter board which handles power and signal conversion. Only two connections to the Pi are required; power from the Pi’s GPIO port and a ribbon cable that connects to the DSI port present on all Raspberry Pi’s.  Touchscreen drivers with support for 10-finger touch and an on-screen keyboard will be integrated into the latest Raspbian OS for full functionality without a physical keyboard or mouse.

Key features:

Truly Interactive - the latest software drivers will support a virtual ‘on screen’ keyboard, so there is no need to plug in a keyboard and mouse.

Make your own Internet of Things devices including a visual display. Simply connect your Raspberry Pi, develop a Python script to interact with the display, and you’re ready to create your own home automation devices with touch screen capability.

A range of educational software and programs available on the Raspberry Pi will be touch enabled, making learning and programming easier on the Raspberry Pi.

Kit contains:

7” Touchscreen Display

Adapter Board

DSI Ribbon cable

4 x stand-offs and screws (used to mount the adapter board and Raspberry Pi board to the back of the display)

4 x jumper wires (used to connect the power from the Adapter Board and the GPIO pins on the Pi so the 2Amp power is shared across both units)

Build instructions can be found here!

Note: Raspberry Pi and power supply are NOT included! Compatible with Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+, Raspberry Pi 3 Model B, Raspberry Pi 2, Model B+, and Model A+. The display will technically work with the Model A and Model B boards (connecting it to the DSI port on the Pi board), however, the mounting holes on the back of the display will only line up with the newer board designs (A+, B+, Pi 2, and Pi 3).