Give your project a voice! Designed by Parallax in conjunction with Grand Idea Studio, the Emic 2 Text-to-Speech Module is a multi-language voice synthesizer that converts a stream of digital text into natural sounding speech. Its simple command-based interface makes it easy to integrate into any embedded system. It is by far the best sounding, easiest-to-use TTS module we've ever seen!

Key Features:

High-quality speech synthesis for English and Spanish languages

Nine pre-defined voice styles comprising male, female, and child

Dynamic control of speech and voice characteristics, including pitch, speaking rate, and word emphasis

Industry-standard DECtalk text-to-speech synthesizer engine (5.0.E1)

Application Ideas:

Reading Internet-based data streams (such as e-mails or Twitter feeds)

Conveying status or sensor results from robots, scientific equipment, or industrial machinery

Language learning or speech aids for educational environments

Example Sounds:

Audio Sample – English (.wav)

Audio Sample – Spanish (.wav)

Audio Sample – Singing “Daisy Bell” (.wav)

This video by Hack-a-Week TV shows a great example of it working with an Arduino. Creator Joe Grand also has A bunch of youtube video showing off the advanced feature-set!

The Pimoroni Speaker pHAT crams an I2S DAC and mono amplifier, a tiny 8Ω 2W speaker, and a 10 LED bar graph all onto one teeny little pHAT. It's the neatest way to add audio to your Pi project, and its beautiful artwork evokes an 80s boombox!

Pimoroni isn't claiming audiophile sound quality, but it's perfect for fun little projects where you want to add sound output – speech, notification sounds, or light music, for example.

Why not combine it with a little USB microphone to make a tiny voice-activated assistant in the style of Amazon's Echo? Or set up a simple Flask API and send audio notifications to it from IFTTT with a simple HTTP request.

It comes as a kit, so you'll have to solder on the female 40 pin header, and screw and solder the speaker on. Check out Pimoroni's assembly guide for more details.

Features:

I2S audio DAC with 3W mono amplifier (MAX98357A)

Default output of 0.45W/26.5dB

8Ω 2W Mylar speaker

Routed holes to channel sound

10 bright white bar graph LEDs

SN3218 LED driver chip

Compatible with Raspberry Pi 3, 2, B+, A+, and Zero

Female header and speaker require soldering (includes a piece of bare wire to solder the speaker)

Kit includes:

Speaker pHAT

8Ω 2W Mylar speaker

2x20 pin female header

5cm 24AWG bare wire

4x M2x8 black nylon bolts

8x M2 black nylon nuts

Note: Pi Zero not included!

This incredibly small stereo amplifier is surprisingly powerful - able to deliver 2 x 3.7W channels into 3 ohm impedance speakers. Inside the miniature chip is a class D controller, able to run from 2.7V-5.5VDC. Since the amp is a class D, its incredibly efficient (over 90% efficient when driving an 8Ω speaker at over a Watt) - making it perfect for portable and battery-powered projects. It has built in thermal and over-current protection but we could barely tell it got hot. This board is a welcome upgrade to basic "LM386" amps!The inputs of the amplifier go through 1.0uF capacitors, so they are fully 'differential' - if you don't have differential outputs, simply tie the R- and L- to ground. The outputs are "Bridge Tied" - that means they connect directly to the outputs, no connection to ground. The output is a 360KHz square wave PWM that is then 'averaged out' by the speaker coil - the high frequencies are not heard. All the above means that you can't connect the output into another amplifier, it should drive the speakers directly.Comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout board with 1.0uF input capacitors. We also include header to plug it into a breadboard, 3.5mm screw-terminal blocks so you can easily attach/detach your speakers, and a 2x4 header + jumper to change the amplifier gain on the fly. You will be ready to rock in 15 minutes! Speakers are not included, use any 3ohm or greater impedance speakers. 

Output Power: 3.7W at 3Ω, 10% THD, 1.7W at 8Ω, 10% THD, with 5V Supply

Passes EMI limit unfiltered with up to 12 inches (30 cm) of speaker cable

High 83dB PSRR at 217Hz

Spread-Spectrum Modulation and Active Emissions Limiting

Five pin-selectable gains: 6dB, 9dB, 12dB, 15dB and 18dB. Select with a jumper or by setting the G and G' breakout pins (see schematic for breakout board showing gain pin settings for details)

Excellent click-and-pop suppression

Thermal and short-circuit/over-current protection

Low current draw: 2mA quiescent and 10uA in shutdown mode

Note: The terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black.

For precision temperature sensing, nothing beats a Platinum RTD. Resistance temperature detectors (RTDs) are temperature sensors that contain a resistor that changes resistance value as its temperature changes, basically a kind of thermistor. In this sensor, the resistor is actually a small strip of Platinum with a resistance of 100 ohms at 0°C, thus the name PT100. Compared to most NTC/PTC thermistors, the PT type of RTD is much most stable and precise (but also more expensive) PT100's have been used for many years to measure temperature in laboratory and industrial processes, and have developed a reputation for accuracy (better than thermocouples), repeatability, and stability. 

However, to get that precision and accuracy out of your PT100 RTD you must use an amplifier that is designed to read the low resistance. Better yet, have an amplifier that can automatically adjust and compensate for the resistance of the connecting wires. If you're looking for a great RTD sensor, today is your lucky day because we have a lovely Adafruit RTD Sensor Amplifier with the MAX31865 breakout for use with any 2, 3 or 4 wire PT100 RTD!

If you have a PT1000 RTD, please visit this page to purchase a version of this board with the reference resistor for 1000-ohm RTDs

We've carried various MAXIM thermocouple amplifiers and they're great - but thermocouples don't have the best accuracy or precision, for when the readings must be as good as can be. The MAX31865 handles all of your RTD needs, and can even compensate 3 or 4 wire RTDs for better accuracy. Connect to it with any microcontroller over SPI and read out the resistance ratio from the internal ADC. We put a 430Ω 0.1% resistor as a reference resistor on the breakout. We have some example code that will calculate the temperature based on the resistance for you.

We even made the breakout 5V compliant, with a 3.3V regulator and level shifting, so you can use it with any Arduino or microcontroller.

Each order comes with one assembled RTD amplifier breakout board. Also comes with two 2-pin terminal blocks (for connecting to the RTD sensor) and pin header (to plug into any breadboard or perfboard). A required PT100 RTD is not included! (But we stock them in the shop). Some soldering is required to solder the headers and terminal blocks to the breakout, but it's an easy task with soldering tools.

Please note: this does not include an RTD sensor! Also, the terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black

This incredibly small stereo amplifier is surprisingly powerful - able to deliver 2 x 2.1W channels into 4 ohm impedance speakers (@ 10% THD). Inside the miniature chip is a class D controller, able to run from 2.7V-5.5VDC. Since the amp is a class D, it's incredibly efficient (89% efficient when driving an 8Ω speaker at 1.5 Watt) - making it perfect for portable and battery-powered projects. It has built in thermal and over-current protection but we could barely tell it got hot. This board is a welcome upgrade to basic "LM386" amps!The inputs of the amplifier go through 1.0uF capacitors, so they are fully 'differential' - if you don't have differential outputs, simply tie the R- and L- to ground. The outputs are "Bridge Tied" - that means they connect directly to the outputs, no connection to ground. The output is a ~300KHz square wave PWM that is then 'averaged out' by the speaker coil - the high frequencies are not heard. All the above means that you can't connect the output into another amplifier, it should drive the speakers directly.Comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout board with 1.0uF input capacitors. We also include a dual mini DIP switch for setting the amplifier gain on the fly, 3.5mm screw-terminal blocks so you can easily attach/detach your speakers, and some header in case you want to plug it into a breadboard. You will be ready to rock in 15 minutes! Speakers are not included, use any 4 ohm or 8 ohm impedance speakers.

Output Power: 2.1W at 4Ω, 10% THD, 1.4W at 8Ω, 10% THD, with 5V Supply

PSRR: 77 dB typ @ 217 Hz with 6 dB gain

Designed for use without an output filter, when wires are kept at under 2"-4" long

Four pin-selectable gains: 6dB, 12dB, 18dB and 24dB. Select with the onboard switches or by setting the G0 and G1 breakout pins (see schematic for breakout board showing gain pin settings for details)

Excellent click-and-pop suppression

Thermal shutdown protection

Independent channel shutdown

Low current draw: typ 6mA quiescent and 1.5uA in shutdown mode

Check out the tutorial for more details!

Note: The terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black.

Stereo 2.8W Class D Audio Amplifier (8:55)

A mini class D with AGC and I2C control? Yes please! This incredibly small stereo amplifier is surprisingly powerful. It is able to deliver 2 x 2.8W channels into 4 ohm impedance speakers (@ 10% THD) and it has a i2c control interface as well as an AGC (automatic gain control) system to keep your audio from clipping or distorting.If you don't want to use I2C to control it, it does start up on with 6dB gain by default and the AGC set up for most music playing. We do suggest using it with a microcontroller to configure it, however, since its quite powerful. Settings are not stored in the chip, so you'll need to adjust any gain & AGC amplification settings every time the amp is powered up.Inside the miniature chip is a class D controller, able to run from 2.7V-5.5VDC. Since the amp is a class D, it's incredibly efficient (89% efficient when driving an 8Ω speaker at 1.5 Watt) - making it perfect for portable and battery-powered projects. It has built in thermal and over-current protection but we could barely tell if it got hot. This board is a welcome upgrade to basic "LM386" amps!The inputs of the amplifier go through 1.0uF capacitors, so they are fully 'differential' - if you don't have differential outputs, simply tie the R- and L- to ground. The outputs are "Bridge Tied" - that means they connect directly to the outputs, no connection to ground. The output is a ~300KHz square wave PWM that is then 'averaged out' by the speaker coil - the high frequencies are not heard. All the above means that you can't connect the output into another amplifier, it should drive the speakers directly.Comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout board with 1.0uF input capacitors. We also include 3.5mm screw-terminal blocks so you can easily attach/detach your speakers, and some header in case you want to plug it into a breadboard. Speakers are not included, use any 4 ohm or 8 ohm impedance speakers.Our awesome tutorial and Arduino library will let you set the AGC configuration (you can also just turn it off), max gain, and turn on/off the left & right channels all over I2C! You will be ready to rock in 20 minutes!

Note: The terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black.

Stereo 2.8W Class D Audio Amplifier - I2C Control AGC - TPA2016 (6:10)

This tiny audio amplifier is based on the Texas Instruments TPA2005D1. Its efficient class-D operation means low heat and long battery life. It can drive an 8-Ohm speaker at up to 1.4 Watts; it won’t shake a stadium, but it will provide plenty of volume for your audio projects.

The fully-differential inputs are safe for floating audio signals such as from our MP3 Shield, and can also be connected to ground-referenced signals as well. A shutdown input is provided to save power when the amplifier is not being used, and a solder jumper and header are provided to connect a volume-control potentiometer (not included).

Note: The amplifier’s class-D design outputs a 250kHz PWM-like signal that is restored to an analog voltage in the speaker’s coil. This is what makes the amplifier so efficient, but because of the switching frequency, you should keep the amplifier as close to the speaker as possible to minimize possible interference.

Features

Extremely efficient class-D amplifier

1.4W into 8 Ohms

2.5V to 5.5V supply

Fully differential audio inputs, can be ground-referenced as well

Shutdown input with pullup and LED-follows-shutdown circuitry

PTH pads provided to change gain resistors if desired (see datasheet for details)

Solder jumper and header allow addition of a 10k volume control potentiometer (not included)

Pump up the volume with this 20W stereo amplifier! This slim little board has a class D amplifier onboard that can drive 2 channels of 4-8 ohm impedance speakers at 20W each. Power it with 5-12VDC using the onboard DC power jack and plug stereo line level into the 3.5mm stereo headphone jack and jam out with ease. Since it's class D, its completely cool-running, no heat sinks are required and it's extremely efficient - up to 93% efficiency makes it great for portable or battery powered rigs.We like the MAX9744 amplifier at the heart of this board because its very easy to use, but it also has both analog and digital volume control capability. Use a single 1KΩ pot (we include one) to adjust volume analog-style. Or hook it up to your favorite microcontroller and send I2C commands to set 64-steps of volume amplification.Some great stats about the MAX9744:

Power from 4.5V-14V DC voltage

Up to 93% efficient (88-93% typical)

20mA quiescent current (or put into shutdown for 1uA quiescent)

Up to 29.5dB max gain

Use DC or AC coupled line-level input, up to 3Vpp

Filterless Spread-Spectrum Modulation LowersRadiated RF Emissions from Speaker Cables

20W Stereo Output (4Ω, VDD = 12V, THD+N = 10%)

Low 0.04% THD+N

Integrated Click-and-Pop Suppression

Short-Circuit and Thermal-Overload Protection

We took this lovely chip and wrapped it up into a breakout for you, with polarity-protection, jacks and terminal blocks, i2c level shifting, and a spot to solder in a volume pot.Each order comes with one MAX9744 breakout board with all surface-mount parts fully assembled and tested. We also include 3 x 2pin and 1 x 3pin terminal blocks, a 470uF power filter capacitor and 1KΩ trim pot. To use this board, a little soldering is required to attach the terminal blocks and other components, but its fairly easy and expect it should take less than 15 minutes. Check out our detailed tutorial for assembly instructions and overall usage

Note: The terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black.

This super small mono amplifier is surprisingly powerful - able to deliver up to 2.5 Watts into 4-8 ohm impedance speakers. Inside the miniature chip is a class D controller, able to run from 2.0V-5.5VDC. Since the amp is a class D, its very efficient (over 90% efficient when driving an 8Ω speaker at over half a Watt) - making it perfect for portable and battery-powered projects. It has built in thermal and over-current protection but we could barely tell it got hot. There's even a volume trim pot so you can adjust the volume on the board down from the default 24dB gain. This board is a welcome upgrade to basic "LM386" amps!The A+ and A- inputs of the amplifier go through 1.0uF capacitors, so they are fully 'differential' - if you don't have differential outputs, simply tie the Audio- pin  to ground. The output is "Bridge Tied" - that means the output pins connect directly to the speaker pins, no connection to ground. The output is a high frequency 250KHz square wave PWM that is then 'averaged out' by the speaker coil - the high frequencies are not heard. All the above means that you can't connect the output into another amplifier, it should drive the speakers directly.Comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout board. We also include header to plug it into a breadboard and a 3.5mm screw-terminal blocks so you can easily attach/detach your speaker. You will be ready to rock in 15 minutes! Speaker is not included, use any 4 ohm or greater impedance speaker.

Output Power: 2.5W at 4Ω, 10% THD, 1.5W at 8Ω, 10% THD, with 5.5V Supply

50dB PSRR at 1KHz

Filterless design, with ferrite bead + capacitors on output.

Fixed 24dB gain, onboard trim potentiometer for adjusting input volume.

Thermal and short-circuit/over-current protection

Low current draw: 4mA quiescent and 1uA in shutdown mode

Note: The terminal block included with your product may be blue or black.

This tiny breakout board features the ADMP401 MEMS microphone. One of the key advantages to this breakout and microphone is the bottom ported input. This means the microphone’s input can fit flush against the enclosure of your project. Plus you will not have to deal with trying to solder the microphone’s wacky footprint. Wootness!

The amplifier on the breakout has a gain of 67 and more than meets the bandwidth requirements of the mic. The amplifier’s AUD output will float at one half Vcc when no sound is being picked up. The amplifier produces a peak-to-peak output of about 200mV when the microphone is held at arms length and is being talked into at normal conversational volume levels. So the AUD output can easily be connected to the ADC of a micro.

Get Started with the ADMP401 Breakout Guide

Features

-3dB roll off at 100Hz and 15kHz

1.5 to 3.3VDC supply voltage

Should comfortably output 40mW

SNR of -62dBA

This electret capsule microphone is the same one we use in our great microphone amplifier board. It contains a small vibrating element that will output a few milllivolts peak-to-peak. You will need an op-amp to amplify the signal, some chips are designed with the amplifier built in in which case you can wire it up directly.

This is an "omnidirectional" microphone, with -44dB sensitivity, and has 20-20KHz frequency response. You can plug it into a breadboard or perfboard or solder wires to the little wires sticking out the back.

Check out OpenMusicLab's great tutorial on Electret Microphones for a deeper look at how these sensors work. If you need an amplifier board, see our fully-assembled and tested mic amp board with adjustable gain.

Add an ear to your project with this well-designed electret microphone amplifier. This fully assembled and tested board comes with a 20-20KHz electret microphone soldered on. For the amplification, we use the Maxim MAX4466, an op-amp specifically designed for this delicate task! The amplifier has excellent power supply noise rejection, so this amplifier sounds really good and isn't nearly as noisy or scratchy as other mic amp breakouts we've tried!This breakout is best used for projects such as voice changers, audio recording/sampling, and audio-reactive projects that use FFT. On the back, we include a small trimmer pot to adjust the gain. You can set the gain from 25x to 125x. That's down to be about 200mVpp (for normal speaking volume about 6" away) which is good for attaching to something that expects 'line level' input without clipping, or up to about 1Vpp, ideal for reading from a microcontroller ADC. The output is rail-to-rail so if the sounds gets loud, the output can go up to 5Vpp!Using it is simple: connect GND to ground, VCC to 2.4-5VDC. For the best performance, use the "quietest" supply available (on an Arduino, this would be the 3.3V supply). The audio waveform will come out of the OUT pin. The output will have a DC bias of VCC/2 so when its perfectly quiet, the voltage will be a steady VCC/2 volts (it is DC coupled). If the audio equipment you're using requires AC coupled audio, place a 100uF capacitor between the output pin and the input of your device. If you're connecting to an audio amplifier that has differential inputs or includes decoupling capacitors, the 100uF cap is not required.The output pin is not designed to drive speakers or anything but the smallest in-ear headphones - you'll need an audio amplifier (such as our 3.7W stereo amp) if you want to connect the amp directly to speakers. If you're connecting to a microcontroller pin, you don't need an amplifier or decoupling capacitor - connect the OUT pin directly to the microcontroller ADC pin.For audio-reactive Arduino projects, we suggest using an FFT driver library (such as the one in this library) which can take the audio input and 'translate' it into frequencies. Also, check out this awesome Voice Changer project that uses this mic and an Adafruit Wave Shield!

If you're using with CircuitPython, this audio-reactive pendant project is pretty easy and works great with any CircuitPython board.