This is the newest revision of our FTDI Basic. We now use a SMD 6-pin header on the bottom, which makes it smaller and more compact. Functionality has remained the same.

This is a basic breakout board for the FTDI FT232RL USB to serial IC. The pinout of this board matches the FTDI cable to work with official Arduino and cloned 5V Arduino boards. It can also be used for general serial applications. The major difference with this board is that it brings out the DTR pin as opposed to the RTS pin of the FTDI cable. The DTR pin allows an Arduino target to auto-reset when a new Sketch is downloaded. This is a really nice feature to have and allows a sketch to be downloaded without having to hit the reset button. This board will auto reset any Arduino board that has the reset pin brought out to a 6-pin connector.

The pins labeled BLK and GRN correspond to the colored wires on the FTDI cable. The black wire on the FTDI cable is GND, green is CTS. Use these BLK and GRN pins to align the FTDI basic board with your Arduino target.

This board has TX and RX LEDs that make it a bit better to use over the FTDI cable. You can actually see serial traffic on the LEDs to verify if the board is working.

This board was designed to decrease the cost of Arduino development and increase ease of use (the auto-reset feature rocks!). Our Arduino Pro boards and LilyPads use this type of connector.

One of the nice features of this board is a jumper on the back of the board that allows the board to be configured to either 3.3V or 5V (both power output and IO level). This board ship default to 5V, but you can cut the default trace and add a solder jumper if you need to switch to 3.3V.

Note: We know a lot of you prefer microUSB over miniUSB. Never fear, we’ve got you covered! Check out our FT231X Breakout for your micro FTDI needs!

This is the newest revision of our FTDI Basic. We now use a SMD 6-pin header on the bottom, which makes it smaller and more compact. Functionality has remained the same.

This is a basic breakout board for the FTDI FT232RL USB to serial IC. The pinout of this board matches the FTDI cable to work with official Arduino and cloned 3.3V Arduino boards. It can also be used for general serial applications. The major difference with this board is that it brings out the DTR pin as opposed to the RTS pin of the FTDI cable. The DTR pin allows an Arduino target to auto-reset when a new Sketch is downloaded. This is a really nice feature to have and allows a sketch to be downloaded without having to hit the reset button. This board will auto reset any Arduino board that has the reset pin brought out to a 6-pin connector.

The pins labeled BLK and GRN correspond to the colored wires on the FTDI cable. The black wire on the FTDI cable is GND, green is DTR. Use these BLK and GRN pins to align the FTDI basic board with your Arduino target.

There are pros and cons to the FTDI Cable vs the FTDI Basic. This board has TX and RX LEDs that allow you to actually see serial traffic on the LEDs to verify if the board is working, but this board requires a Mini-B cable. The FTDI Cable is well protected against the elements, but is large and cannot be embedded into a project as easily. The FTDI Basic uses DTR to cause a hardware reset where the FTDI cable uses the RTS signal.

This board was designed to decrease the cost of Arduino development and increase ease of use (the auto-reset feature rocks!). Our Arduino Pro and LilyPad boards use this type of connector.

Note: We know a lot of you prefer microUSB over miniUSB. Never fear, we’ve got you covered! Check out our FT231X Breakout for your micro FTDI needs!

Your power supply problems just got SUPER SOLVED! This 3.3V Buck Converter Breakout board is great for supplying power to low voltage circuits from a single Li-Ion cell battery or USB power.  This chip provides up to 600-mA load current across the entire input voltage range of 3.5 to 5.5V.  Great for your portable project, we made this "pin compatible" with the LM1117-3.3V TO-220 chip so you can swap it in for better performance (90-95% efficiency!) There's also an ENable pin, tie it low to shut down the output completely.

There's a 2-MHz fixed-frequency in PWM mode and PFM mode extends the battery life by reducing the current during light load or standby operation.

Comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout board.  We also include header to plug it into a breadboard.

This is the SparkFun MOSFET Power Control Kit, a breakout PTH soldering kit for for the RFP30N06LE N-Channel MOSFET. This kit is extremely simple to assemble with only 10 pins to solder. If you are looking for a little more control over projects that require a little more power than normal but need a better way than your breadboard, this kit is perfect for you

Included in each kit is a SparkFun MOSFET Power Control PCB, two screw terminals (one 2-pin and one 3-pin), a 10k resistor, and a single RFP30N06LE MOSFET. What we really like about this particular MOSFET is that it’s very common and offers very low on-resistance with a control (gate) voltage that is compatible with any 3-5V microcontroller or mechanical switch. This allows you to control high-power devices with very low-power control mechanisms.

Note: While the MOSFET is rated to 60V 30A, the circuit board traces are only rated to 3.5A.

Includes

1x SparkFun MOSFET Power Control PCB

1x RFP30N06LE MOSFET

1x 2-pin screw terminal

1x 3-pin screw terminal

1x 10k resistor

The Teensy is an amazing development platform that allows you to get more computing power than an Arduino Uno, and in less space. The Teensy 3.1 XBee Adapter allows you to connect your Teensy with the tried and true XBee series to provide you with a great solution to any project that requires a decently ranged no-frills wireless serial link.

Not only does the Teensy 3.1 XBee Adapter connect a XBee and Teensy together, it also acts as a breakout board for both. Each pin on the Teensy and XBee has been broken out to standard 0.1" spaced through-hole soldering points that allow you to connect any additional parts that you would like to incorporate with the adapter.

Though the adapter design interfaces best with the Teensy 3.1, the Teensy LC can be utilized as well. Paired with the XBee you can get a great long distance serial connection, and with the 72MHz of processing speed (48MHz for the Teensy-LC) you can do a lot with the information.

Note: The only headers pre-soldered onto this board as the ones designed to attach your XBee. Additional headers and wires to hook up your Teensy, breadboard, additional circuits, etc will need to be purchased separately.

TRRS connectors are the audio-style connectors that you see on some phones, MP3 players and development boards. TRRS stands for “Tip, Ring, Ring, Sleeve,” which reflects the fact that, unlike a standard stereo connector, this actually has three conductors and a ground. Some devices use the extra conductor for a microphone (like hands-free headsets) or to carry a video signal (like in some MP3/MP4 players). This breakout board makes it easy to add a TRRS jack to your prototype or project by breaking out each conductor to a standard 0.1" spaced header.

This is a breakout board for the WS2812B RGB LED. The WS2812B (or “NeoPixel”) is actually an RGB LED with a WS2811 built right into the LED! All the necessary pins are broken out to 0.1" spaced headers for easy bread-boarding. Several of these breakouts can even be chained together to form a display or an addressable string.

Life has its ups and downs, so why not measure them? The MPL3115A2 is a MEMS pressure sensor that provides Altitude data to within 30cm (with oversampling enabled). The sensor outputs are digitized by a high resolution 24-bit ADC and transmitted over I2C, meaning it’s easy to interface with most controllers. Pressure output can be resolved with output in fractions of a Pascal, and Altitude can be resolved in fractions of a meter. The device also provides 12-bit temperature measurements in degrees Celsius.

This breakout board makes it easy to prototype using this tiny device by breaking out the necessary pins to a standard 0.1" spaced header. The board also has all of the passive components needed to get the device functioning, so you can simply connect it to something that talks I2C and get to work!

Features

1.95V to 3.6V Supply Voltage, internally regulated by LDO

1.6V to 3.6V Digital Interface Supply Voltage

Fully Compensated internally

Direct Reading, Compensated

Pressure: 20-bit measurement (Pascals)

Altitude: 20-bit measurement (meters)

Temperature: 12-bit measurement (degrees Celsius)

Pressure: 20-bit measurement (Pascals)

Altitude: 20-bit measurement (meters)

Temperature: 12-bit measurement (degrees Celsius)

Programmable Events

Autonomous Data Acquisition

Resolution down to 1 ft. / 30 cm

32 Sample FIFO

Ability to log data up to 12 days using the FIFO

1 second to 9 hour data acquisition rate

I2C digital output interface (operates up to 400 kHz)

The SparkFun BME280 Atmospheric Sensor Breakout is the easy way to measure barometric pressure, humidity, and temperature readings all without taking up too much space. Basically, anything you need to know about atmospheric conditions you can find out from this tiny breakout. The BME280 Breakout has been design to be used in indoor/outdoor navigation, weather forecasting, home automation, and even personal health and wellness monitoring.

The on-board BME280 sensor measures atmospheric pressure from 30kPa to 110kPa as well as relative humidity and temperature. The breakout provides a 3.3V SPI interface, a 5V tolerant I2C interface (with pull-up resistors to 3.3V), takes measurements at less than 1mA and idles less than 5µA. The BME280 Breakout board has 10 pins, but no more than six are used at a single time. The left side of the board provide power, ground, and I2C pins. The remaining pins which provide SPI functionality and have another power and ground, are broken out on the other side.

Note: The breakout does NOT have headers installed and will need to purchased and soldered on yourself. Check the Recommended Products section below for the type of headers we use in the Hookup Guide!

Features

Operation Voltage: 3.3V

I2C & SPI Communications Interface

Temp Range: -40C to 85C

Humidity Range: 0 - 100% RH, =-3% from 20-80%

Pressure Range: 30,000Pa to 110,000Pa, relative accuracy of 12Pa, absolute accuracy of 100Pa

Altitude Range: 0 to 30,000 ft (9.2 km), relative accuracy of 3.3 ft (1 m) at sea level, 6.6 (2 m) at 30,000 ft.

Incredibly Small

This is a very small infrared receiver based on the TSOP85 receiver from Vishay. This receiver has all the filtering and 38kHz demodulation built into the unit. Simply point a IR remote at the receiver, hit a button, and you’ll see a stream of 1s and 0s out of the data pin.

The SparkFun Soil Moisture Sensor is a simple breakout for measuring the moisture in soil and similar materials. The soil moisture sensor is pretty straight forward to use. The two large exposed pads function as probes for the sensor, together acting as a variable resistor. The more water that is in the soil means the better the conductivity between the pads will be and will result in a lower resistance, and a higher SIG out.

To get the SparkFun Soil Moisture Sensor functioning all you will need is to connect the VCC and GND pins to your Arduino-based device (or compatible development board) and you will receive a SIG out which will depend on the amount of water in the soil. One commonly known issue with soil moisture senors is their short lifespan when exposed to a moist environment. To combat this, we’ve had the PCB coated in Gold Finishing (ENIG or Electroless Nickel Immersion Gold). We recommend either a simple 3-pin screw pin terminal or a 3-pin jumper wire assembly (both can be found in the Recommended Products section below) to be soldered onto the sensor for easy wiring.

Note: Check the Hookup Guide below for assembly and weatherproofing instructions as well as a simple example project that you can put to together yourself!

Get Started with the Soil Moisture Sensor Guide

The Si7021 is a low-cost, easy-to-use, highly accurate, digital humidity and temperature sensor. This sensor is ideal for environmental sensing and data logging and perfect for build a weather stations or humidor control system. All you need are two lines for I2C communication, and you’ll have relative humidity readings and very accurate temperature readings as a bonus!

There are only four pins that need to be hooked up in order to start using this sensor in a project. One for VCC, one for GND, and two data lines for I2C communication. This breakout board has built-in 4.7KΩ pullup resistors for I2C communications. If you’re hooking up multiple I2C devices on the same bus, you may want to disable these resistors.

Features

0.6" x 0.6"

The SHT15 Breakout is an easy to use, highly accurate, digital temperature and humidity sensor. This board has been fully calibrated and offers high precision and excellent long-term stability at low cost. The digital CMOSens® technology integrates two sensors and readout circuitry on one single chip. All you need is two lines for 2-wire communication, and you’ll have relative humidity and temperature readings to help you sense the world around you!

The two sensors built into the SHT15 have been seamlessly coupled to a 14bit analog to digital converter and a serial interface circuit resulting in superior signal quality, fast response time, and a strong resistance to external disturbances. Additionally, the on board SHT15 features a 0-100% RH measurement range with a temperature accuracy of +/- 0.3°C @ 25°C. There are only four pins that need to be hooked up in order to start using this sensor in a project. One for VCC, one for GND, and the two data lines SDA and SCL.

Features

Operating Voltages: 2.4V min - 5.5V max

2 factory calibrated sensors for relative humidity & temperature

Digital 2-wire interface (Not I2C, but similar)

Measurement range: 0-100% RH

Absolute RH accuracy: +/- 2% RH (10…90% RH)

Repeatability RH: +/- 0.1% RH

Temp. accuracy: +/- 0.3°C @ 25°C

Precise dewpoint calculation possible

Fast response time

Low power consumption (typ. 30 µW)

Add Internet to your next project with an adorable, bite-sized WiFi microcontroller, at a price you like! The ESP8266 processor from Espressif is an 80 MHz microcontroller with a full WiFi front-end (both as client and access point) and TCP/IP stack with DNS support as well.  We do sell these on a breakout, but maybe you wanna just put this in your own project PCB.

These modules are very easy to hand solder, with big pads! We have this part in the Adafruit Eagle library (ESP12) - the extra pads don't appear but they are not usable anyways.

Comes with 4MB flash chip, ESP processory, and onboard antenna. These come pre-progammed with the NodeMCU Lua firmware, so you are ready to rock. Some extra parts will be needed to get this going, check out the HUZZAH schematic for the extra components we recommend

For advanced users only! This product is just the module - which can be difficult to use.  Click here if you're looking for the Huzzah ESP8266 Breakout!

Our Adafruit Bluefruit LE (Bluetooth Smart, Bluetooth Low Energy, Bluetooth 4.0) nRF8001 Breakout allows you to establish an easy to use wireless link between your Arduino and any compatible iOS or Android (4.3+) device. It works by simulating a UART device beneath the surface, sending ASCII data back and forth between the devices, letting you decide what data to send and what to do with it on either end of the connection.

Unlike classic Bluetooth, BLE has no big contracts to sign and no major hoops that you have to jump through to create iOS peripherals that you can legally design and distribute in the App Store, which makes it a great choice compared to classic Bluetooth which had (and still has) a lot of restrictions around it on the iOS platform.

And now that Android also officially supports Bluetooth Low Energy (as of Android 4.3), it's also -- finally! -- a universal communication channel covering the main mobile operating systems people are using today.

Please note! We still manufacture and support the nRF8001 Bluefruit module sold here, but we really recommend going with the fresh new Bluefruit LE nRF51822 based modules, they're much more powerful and thus need less code on the Arduino side, have a lot more capability and flexibility so you can do more, require fewer pins, are overall smaller, can be updated with new firmware and are FCC/CE approved! They come in both UART and SPI interface type (both have same functionality, one just uses serial, one uses SPI)

We can get you started super fast with this BLE module which can act like an 'every day' UART data link (with an RX and TX characteristic). Send and receive data up to 10 meters away, from your Arduino to an iOS device. We've even made it easy to get started with our very own BLE connect app that has a "serial console" for sending/receiving data and also an 'arduino pin i/o control station" to let you set pins on your Arduino to inputs or outputs, high or low logic or even PWM output, as well as read button presses and analog inputs. You can start prototyping your accessory and then use our open source Objective C code to base your new app on!

The nRF8001 is nice in that it is just a BLE 'peripheral' (client) front-end, so you can use any micrcontroller with SPI to drive it. We have example C++ code for Arduino, which you can port to any other microcontroller, but some microcontroller is required - it is not a stand-alone module!

This is a product for ADVANCED USERS - At this time we recommend this product for people who are either OK with using the apps available (Nordic's UART demo or our Bluefruit LE Connect) or are comfortable with writing iOS apps (and can refer to our App repository). We do not have a tutorial for writing your own iOS or Android BLE app at this time, don't worry we're working on one :)

We have a guide to help you setup your nRF8001 Bluetooth Low Energy breakout, and start using some of the sample sketches we provide with it to connect to an iOS or Android device.

We also now have an app for Android users available here!

If you're new to Bluetooth Low Energy, be sure to check out our Introduction to Bluetooth Low Energy learning guide as well!

This incredibly small stereo amplifier is surprisingly powerful - able to deliver 2 x 3.7W channels into 3 ohm impedance speakers. Inside the miniature chip is a class D controller, able to run from 2.7V-5.5VDC. Since the amp is a class D, its incredibly efficient (over 90% efficient when driving an 8Ω speaker at over a Watt) - making it perfect for portable and battery-powered projects. It has built in thermal and over-current protection but we could barely tell it got hot. This board is a welcome upgrade to basic "LM386" amps!The inputs of the amplifier go through 1.0uF capacitors, so they are fully 'differential' - if you don't have differential outputs, simply tie the R- and L- to ground. The outputs are "Bridge Tied" - that means they connect directly to the outputs, no connection to ground. The output is a 360KHz square wave PWM that is then 'averaged out' by the speaker coil - the high frequencies are not heard. All the above means that you can't connect the output into another amplifier, it should drive the speakers directly.Comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout board with 1.0uF input capacitors. We also include header to plug it into a breadboard, 3.5mm screw-terminal blocks so you can easily attach/detach your speakers, and a 2x4 header + jumper to change the amplifier gain on the fly. You will be ready to rock in 15 minutes! Speakers are not included, use any 3ohm or greater impedance speakers. 

Output Power: 3.7W at 3Ω, 10% THD, 1.7W at 8Ω, 10% THD, with 5V Supply

Passes EMI limit unfiltered with up to 12 inches (30 cm) of speaker cable

High 83dB PSRR at 217Hz

Spread-Spectrum Modulation and Active Emissions Limiting

Five pin-selectable gains: 6dB, 9dB, 12dB, 15dB and 18dB. Select with a jumper or by setting the G and G' breakout pins (see schematic for breakout board showing gain pin settings for details)

Excellent click-and-pop suppression

Thermal and short-circuit/over-current protection

Low current draw: 2mA quiescent and 10uA in shutdown mode

Note: The terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black.

For precision temperature sensing, nothing beats a Platinum RTD. Resistance temperature detectors (RTDs) are temperature sensors that contain a resistor that changes resistance value as its temperature changes, basically a kind of thermistor. In this sensor, the resistor is actually a small strip of Platinum with a resistance of 100 ohms at 0°C, thus the name PT100. Compared to most NTC/PTC thermistors, the PT type of RTD is much most stable and precise (but also more expensive) PT100's have been used for many years to measure temperature in laboratory and industrial processes, and have developed a reputation for accuracy (better than thermocouples), repeatability, and stability. 

However, to get that precision and accuracy out of your PT100 RTD you must use an amplifier that is designed to read the low resistance. Better yet, have an amplifier that can automatically adjust and compensate for the resistance of the connecting wires. If you're looking for a great RTD sensor, today is your lucky day because we have a lovely Adafruit RTD Sensor Amplifier with the MAX31865 breakout for use with any 2, 3 or 4 wire PT100 RTD!

If you have a PT1000 RTD, please visit this page to purchase a version of this board with the reference resistor for 1000-ohm RTDs

We've carried various MAXIM thermocouple amplifiers and they're great - but thermocouples don't have the best accuracy or precision, for when the readings must be as good as can be. The MAX31865 handles all of your RTD needs, and can even compensate 3 or 4 wire RTDs for better accuracy. Connect to it with any microcontroller over SPI and read out the resistance ratio from the internal ADC. We put a 430Ω 0.1% resistor as a reference resistor on the breakout. We have some example code that will calculate the temperature based on the resistance for you.

We even made the breakout 5V compliant, with a 3.3V regulator and level shifting, so you can use it with any Arduino or microcontroller.

Each order comes with one assembled RTD amplifier breakout board. Also comes with two 2-pin terminal blocks (for connecting to the RTD sensor) and pin header (to plug into any breadboard or perfboard). A required PT100 RTD is not included! (But we stock them in the shop). Some soldering is required to solder the headers and terminal blocks to the breakout, but it's an easy task with soldering tools.

Please note: this does not include an RTD sensor! Also, the terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black

This incredibly small stereo amplifier is surprisingly powerful - able to deliver 2 x 2.1W channels into 4 ohm impedance speakers (@ 10% THD). Inside the miniature chip is a class D controller, able to run from 2.7V-5.5VDC. Since the amp is a class D, it's incredibly efficient (89% efficient when driving an 8Ω speaker at 1.5 Watt) - making it perfect for portable and battery-powered projects. It has built in thermal and over-current protection but we could barely tell it got hot. This board is a welcome upgrade to basic "LM386" amps!The inputs of the amplifier go through 1.0uF capacitors, so they are fully 'differential' - if you don't have differential outputs, simply tie the R- and L- to ground. The outputs are "Bridge Tied" - that means they connect directly to the outputs, no connection to ground. The output is a ~300KHz square wave PWM that is then 'averaged out' by the speaker coil - the high frequencies are not heard. All the above means that you can't connect the output into another amplifier, it should drive the speakers directly.Comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout board with 1.0uF input capacitors. We also include a dual mini DIP switch for setting the amplifier gain on the fly, 3.5mm screw-terminal blocks so you can easily attach/detach your speakers, and some header in case you want to plug it into a breadboard. You will be ready to rock in 15 minutes! Speakers are not included, use any 4 ohm or 8 ohm impedance speakers.

Output Power: 2.1W at 4Ω, 10% THD, 1.4W at 8Ω, 10% THD, with 5V Supply

PSRR: 77 dB typ @ 217 Hz with 6 dB gain

Designed for use without an output filter, when wires are kept at under 2"-4" long

Four pin-selectable gains: 6dB, 12dB, 18dB and 24dB. Select with the onboard switches or by setting the G0 and G1 breakout pins (see schematic for breakout board showing gain pin settings for details)

Excellent click-and-pop suppression

Thermal shutdown protection

Independent channel shutdown

Low current draw: typ 6mA quiescent and 1.5uA in shutdown mode

Check out the tutorial for more details!

Note: The terminal blocks included with your product may be blue or black.

Stereo 2.8W Class D Audio Amplifier (8:55)

This tiny audio amplifier is based on the Texas Instruments TPA2005D1. Its efficient class-D operation means low heat and long battery life. It can drive an 8-Ohm speaker at up to 1.4 Watts; it won’t shake a stadium, but it will provide plenty of volume for your audio projects.

The fully-differential inputs are safe for floating audio signals such as from our MP3 Shield, and can also be connected to ground-referenced signals as well. A shutdown input is provided to save power when the amplifier is not being used, and a solder jumper and header are provided to connect a volume-control potentiometer (not included).

Note: The amplifier’s class-D design outputs a 250kHz PWM-like signal that is restored to an analog voltage in the speaker’s coil. This is what makes the amplifier so efficient, but because of the switching frequency, you should keep the amplifier as close to the speaker as possible to minimize possible interference.

Features

Extremely efficient class-D amplifier

1.4W into 8 Ohms

2.5V to 5.5V supply

Fully differential audio inputs, can be ground-referenced as well

Shutdown input with pullup and LED-follows-shutdown circuitry

PTH pads provided to change gain resistors if desired (see datasheet for details)

Solder jumper and header allow addition of a 10k volume control potentiometer (not included)

This super small mono amplifier is surprisingly powerful - able to deliver up to 2.5 Watts into 4-8 ohm impedance speakers. Inside the miniature chip is a class D controller, able to run from 2.0V-5.5VDC. Since the amp is a class D, its very efficient (over 90% efficient when driving an 8Ω speaker at over half a Watt) - making it perfect for portable and battery-powered projects. It has built in thermal and over-current protection but we could barely tell it got hot. There's even a volume trim pot so you can adjust the volume on the board down from the default 24dB gain. This board is a welcome upgrade to basic "LM386" amps!The A+ and A- inputs of the amplifier go through 1.0uF capacitors, so they are fully 'differential' - if you don't have differential outputs, simply tie the Audio- pin  to ground. The output is "Bridge Tied" - that means the output pins connect directly to the speaker pins, no connection to ground. The output is a high frequency 250KHz square wave PWM that is then 'averaged out' by the speaker coil - the high frequencies are not heard. All the above means that you can't connect the output into another amplifier, it should drive the speakers directly.Comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout board. We also include header to plug it into a breadboard and a 3.5mm screw-terminal blocks so you can easily attach/detach your speaker. You will be ready to rock in 15 minutes! Speaker is not included, use any 4 ohm or greater impedance speaker.

Output Power: 2.5W at 4Ω, 10% THD, 1.5W at 8Ω, 10% THD, with 5.5V Supply

50dB PSRR at 1KHz

Filterless design, with ferrite bead + capacitors on output.

Fixed 24dB gain, onboard trim potentiometer for adjusting input volume.

Thermal and short-circuit/over-current protection

Low current draw: 4mA quiescent and 1uA in shutdown mode

Note: The terminal block included with your product may be blue or black.

This tiny breakout board features the ADMP401 MEMS microphone. One of the key advantages to this breakout and microphone is the bottom ported input. This means the microphone’s input can fit flush against the enclosure of your project. Plus you will not have to deal with trying to solder the microphone’s wacky footprint. Wootness!

The amplifier on the breakout has a gain of 67 and more than meets the bandwidth requirements of the mic. The amplifier’s AUD output will float at one half Vcc when no sound is being picked up. The amplifier produces a peak-to-peak output of about 200mV when the microphone is held at arms length and is being talked into at normal conversational volume levels. So the AUD output can easily be connected to the ADC of a micro.

Get Started with the ADMP401 Breakout Guide

Features

-3dB roll off at 100Hz and 15kHz

1.5 to 3.3VDC supply voltage

Should comfortably output 40mW

SNR of -62dBA

The SparkFun Sound Detector is a small and very easy to use audio sensing board with three different outputs. The Sound Detector not only provides an audio output, but also a binary indication of the presence of sound, and an analog representation of its amplitude. The 3 outputs are simultaneous and independent, so you can use as many or as few as you want at once.

The envelope output allows you to easily read amplitude of sound by simply measuring the analog voltage. Gain can be adjusted with a through-hole resistor, to change the threshold of the binary (gate) output pin as well. Check the hookup guide below for more information about setting gain.

Each of the three output signals is present on the .1" pin-out at the edge of the board. They are active simultaneously. If you aren’t using one in your particular application, simply leave that pin disconnected.

Get Started with the SparkFun Sound Detector Guide

This is a simple breakout board for the popular XBee product from Digi. This board breaks out all 20 pins of the XBee to a 0.1" standard spacing dual row header. The spacing between 0.1" headers is 0.5" making it breadboard DIP friendly. We highly recommend using the female sockets to avoid having to solder the XBee permanently to the breakout board. This is the PCB only. Please order the accompanying 2mm sockets (you’ll need 2!) and 0.1" headers below.

Say hello to our 0.96" 160x80 Color TFT Display w/ MicroSD Card Breakout – we think it's T-F-Terrific! It's the size of your thumbnail, with glorious 160x80 pixel color. This very very small display is only 0.96" diagonal, packed with RGB pixels, for making very small high-density displays.

This lovely little display breakout is a great way to add a small, colorful and bright display to any project. Since the display uses 4-wire SPI to communicate and has its own pixel-addressable frame buffer, it can be used with every kind of microcontroller. Even a very small one with low memory and few pins available!

The 0.96" display has 160x80 color pixels. Unlike the low cost "Nokia 6110" and similar LCD displays, which are CSTN type and thus have poor color and slow refresh, this display is a true TFT! The TFT driver (ST7735R) can display full 16-bit color using our library code.

The breakout has the TFT display soldered on (it uses a delicate flex-circuit connector) as well as a ultra-low-dropout 3.3V regulator and a 3/5V level shifter so you can use it with 3.3V or 5V power and logic. We also had a little space so we placed a microSD card holder so you can easily load full color bitmaps from a FAT16/FAT32 formatted microSD card. The microSD card is not included, but you can pick one up here.

Of course, we wouldn't just leave you with a datasheet and a "good luck!" - we've written a full open source graphics library that can draw pixels, lines, rectangles, circles, text and bitmaps as well as example code and a wiring tutorial. The code is written for Arduino IDE but can be easily ported to your favorite microcontroller!

The SparkFun Micro OLED Breakout Board breaks out a small monochrome, blue-on-black OLED. It’s “micro”, but it still packs a punch – the OLED display is crisp, and you can fit a deceivingly large amount of graphics on there. This breakout is perfect for adding graphics to your next Arduino project, displaying diagnostic information without resorting to serial output, and teaching a little game theory while creating a fun, Arduino-based video game. Most important of all, though, is the Micro OLED is easy to control over either an SPI or I2C interface.

You may be asking yourself, “Why does this board look so familiar?” Yes, this is essentially a MicroView without the Arduino portion. We understand that sometimes you just need a breakout, an open door for you to explore the possibilities of a super small OLED screen. Speaking of, the screen on this breakout is only 64 pixels wide and 48 pixels tall, measuring 0.66" across.

In total, the Micro OLED Breakout provides access to 16 of the OLED’s pins. Fortunately, though, you’ll only need about half of them to make the display work. The top row of pins (GND-CS) breaks out everything you’d need to interface with the OLED over an SPI or I2C interface. The pins on the bottom (D7-vB) are mostly only used if you need to control the display over a parallel interface. This board operates at 3.3V with a current of 10mA (20mA max).

Get Started with the SparkFun Micro OLED Breakout Guide

Features

Operating Voltage: 3.3V

Screen Size: 64x48 pixels (0.66" Across)

Monochrome Blue-on-Black

SPI or I2C Interface

You want to make a cool robot, maybe a hexapod walker, or maybe just a piece of art with a lot of moving parts. Or maybe you want to drive a lot of LEDs with precise PWM output. Then you realize that your microcontroller has a limited number of PWM outputs! What now? You could give up OR you could just get this handy PWM and Servo driver breakout.When we saw this chip, we quickly realized what an excellent add-on this would be. Using only two pins, control 16 free-running PWM outputs! You can even chain up 62 breakouts to control up to 992 PWM outputs (which we would really like to see since it would be glorious)

It's an i2c-controlled PWM driver with a built in clock. That means that, unlike the TLC5940 family, you do not need to continuously send it signal tying up your microcontroller, its completely free running!

It is 5V compliant, which means you can control it from a 3.3V microcontroller and still safely drive up to 6V outputs (this is good for when you want to control white or blue LEDs with 3.4+ forward voltages)

6 address select pins so you can wire up to 62 of these on a single i2c bus, a total of 992 outputs - that's a lot of servos or LEDs

Adjustable frequency PWM up to about 1.6 KHz

12-bit resolution for each output - for servos, that means about 4us resolution at 60Hz update rate

Configurable push-pull or open-drain output

Output enable pin to quickly disable all the outputs

We wrapped up this lovely chip into a breakout board with a couple nice extras

Terminal block for power input (or you can use the 0.1" breakouts on the side)

Reverse polarity protection on the terminal block input. The terminal block included with your product may be blue or black.

Green power-good LED

3 pin connectors in groups of 4 so you can plug in 16 servos at once (Servo plugs are slightly wider than 0.1" so you can only stack 4 next to each other on 0.1" header

"Chain-able" design

A spot to place a big capacitor on the V+ line (in case you need it)

220 ohm series resistors on all the output lines to protect them, and to make driving LEDs trivial

Solder jumpers for the 6 address select pins

This product comes with a fully tested and assembled breakout as well as 4 pieces of 3x4 male straight header (for servo/LED plugs), a 2-pin terminal block (for power) and a piece of 6-pin 0.1" header (to plug into a breadboard). A little light soldering will be required to assemble and customize the board by attaching the desired headers but it is a 15 minute task that even a beginner can do. If you want to use right-angle 3x4 headers, we also carry a 4 pack in the shop.Check out our tutorial with CircuitPython & Arduino libraries/examples, wiring diagrams, schematics, Fritzing and more!

A gyroscope is a type of sensor that can sense twisting and turning motions. Often paired with an accelerometer, you can use these to do 3D motion capture and inertial measurement (that is - you can tell how an object is moving!) As these sensors become more popular and easier to manufacture, the prices for them have dropped to the point where you can easily afford a triple-axis gyro! Only a decade ago, this space-tech sensor would have been hundreds of dollars.This breakout board is based around the latest gyro technology, the L3GD20H from STMicro. It's the upgrade to the L3G4200 (see this app note on what to look for if upgrading an existing design to the L3GD20) with three full axes of sensing. The chip can be set to ±250, ±500, or ±2000 degree-per-second scale for a large range of sensitivity. There's also built in high and low pass sensing to make data processing easier. The chip supports both I2C and SPI so you can interface with any microcontroller easily.Since this chip is a 3.3V max device, but many of our customers want to use it with an Arduino, we soldered it to a breakout board with level shifting circuitry so you can use the I2C or SPI interface safely using a 5V interface device. We also place a 3.3V regulator on there so you can power it from 5V.Since we expect people will want to attach it firmly to their project, the PCB comes with four 2.1mm mounting holes. Use #2-56 imperial or M2 screws screws.Getting started is easy - simply connect SDA to your Arduino I2C data pin (On the UNO this is A4), SCL to I2C clock (Uno: A5), GND to ground, and Vin to 3 or 5VDC. Then install and run our easy to use Arduino library, which will print out the XYZ sensor data to the serial terminal. Our library also supports SPI on any 4 digital I/O pins, see the example for wiring.

The NXP Precision 9DoF breakout combines two of the best motion sensors we've tested here at Adafruit: The FXOS8700 3-Axis accelerometer and magnetometer, and the FXAS21002 3-axis gyroscope.

These two sensors combine to make a nice 9-DoF kit, that can be used for motion and orientation sensing. In particular, we think this sensor set is ideal for AHRS-based orientation calculations: the gyro stability performance is superior to the LSM9DS0, LSM9DS1, L3GD20H + LSM303, MPU-9250, and even the BNO-055 (see our Gyro comparison tutorial for more details).

Compared to the BNO055, this sensor will get you similar orientation performance but at a lower price because the calculations are done on your microcontroller, not in the sensor itself. The trade off is you will sacrifice about 15KB of Flash space, and computing cycles, to do the math 'in house.'

To make it fast and easy for you to get started, we have a version of AHRS that we've adapted to work over USB or Bluetooth LE. Load the code onto your Arduino-compatible board and you will get orientation data in the form of Euler angles or quaternions! It will work on a ATmega328 (the fusion code is 15KB of flash) but faster/larger chips such as M0 or ESP8266 will give you more breathing room.

Each board comes with the two chips soldered onto a breakout with 4 mounting holes. While the chips support SPI, they don't tri-state the MISO pin, so we decided to go with plain I2C which works well and is supported by every modern microcontroller and computer chip set.  There's a 3.3V regulator and level shifting on the I2C and Reset lines, so you can use the breakout safely with 3.3V or 5V power/logic. Each order comes with a fully assembled and tested breakout and a small strip of header. Some light soldering is required to attach the header if you want to use in a breadboard.

Our tutorial will get you started with wiring diagrams, pinouts, assembly instructions and library code with examples!

So what makes this so 'Precision'-y, eh?

Glad you asked! This particular sensor combination jumped out at us writing the Comparing Gyroscopes learning guide since the FXAS21002 exhibited the lowest zero-rate level of any of the gyroscopes we've tested, with the the following documented levels (converted to degrees per second for convenience sake):

At +/- 2000 dps 3.125 dps

At +/- 250 dps 0.3906 dps

The zero-rate level is important in orientation since it represents the amount of angular velocity a gyroscope will report when the device is immobile. High zero-rate levels can cause all kinds of problems in orientation systems if the data isn't properly compensated out, and distinguishing zero-rate errors from actual angular velocity can be non-trivial. This is particularly important in sensor fusion algorithms where the gyroscope plays an important part in predicting orientation adjustments over time. A high zero-rate level will cause constant rotation even when the device is immobile!

By comparison, most other sensors tested have 10-20 times these zero-rate levels, which is why we consider this particular part very precise. There is little work to do out of the box to get useful, actionable data out of it.

Filling out our accelerometer offerings, we now have the really lovely digital ADXL345 from Analog Devices, a triple-axis accelerometer with digital I2C and SPI interface breakout. We added an on-board 3.3V regulator and logic-level shifting circuitry, making it a perfect choice for interfacing with any 3V or 5V microcontroller such as the Arduino.The sensor has three axes of measurements, X Y Z, and pins that can be used either as I2C or SPI digital interfacing. You can set the sensitivity level to either +-2g, +-4g, +-8g or +-16g. The lower range gives more resolution for slow movements, the higher range is good for high speed tracking. The ADXL345 is the latest and greatest from Analog Devices, known for their exceptional quality MEMS devices. The VCC takes up to 5V in and regulates it to 3.3V with an output pin.Fully assembled and tested. Comes with 9 pin 0.1" standard header in case you want to use it with a breadboard or perfboard. Two 2.5mm (0.1") mounting holes for easy attachment.Get started in a jiffy with our detailed tutorial!

ADXL345 - Triple-Axis Accelerometer (+-2g/4g/8g/16g) w/ I2C/SPI (16:05)

The LSM6DS3 is a accelerometer and gyroscope sensor with a giant 8kb FIFO buffer and embedded processing interrupt functions, specifically targeted at the cellphone market. Due to the capabilities and low cost of the LSM6DS3 we’ve created this small breakout board just for you! Each LSM6DS3 Breakout has been designed to be super-flexible and can be configured specifically for many applications. With the LSM6DS3 Breakout you will be able to detect shocks, tilt, motion, taps, count steps, and even read the temperature!

The LSM6DS3 is capable of reading accelerometer data up to 6.7kS/s and gyroscope data up to 1.7kS/s for more accurate movement sensing. As stated before this breakout also has the ability to buffer up to 8kB of data between reads, host other sensors, and drive interrupt pins all thanks to the LSM6DS3’s built-in FIFO.

Each pin has been broken out on the LSM6DS3, with one side of the board featuring power and I2C functionality while the other side sporting pins that control SPI functionality and interrupt outputs. Please keep in mind that the LSM6DS3 is a 3.3V device so supplying voltages greater than ~3.6V can permanently damage the IC. A logic level shifter is required for any development platform operating at 5V.

Features

Power consumption: 0.9 mA in combo normal mode and 1.25 mA in combo high-performance mode up to 1.6 kHz.

“Always on” experience with low power consumption for both accelerometer and gyroscope

Smart FIFO up to 8 kbyte based on features set

±2/±4/±8/±16 g full scale

±125/±245/±500/±1000/±2000 dps full scale

Analog supply voltage: 1.71 V to 3.6 V

SPI/I2C serial interface with main processor data synchronization feature

Embedded temperature sensor

The LSM9DS1 is a versatile, motion-sensing system-in-a-chip. It houses a 3-axis accelerometer, 3-axis gyroscope, and 3-axis magnetometer – nine degrees of freedom (9DOF) in a single IC! The LSM9DS1 is equipped with a digital interface, but even that is flexible: it supports both I2C and SPI, so you’ll be hard-pressed to find a microcontroller it doesn’t work with. This IMU-in-a-chip is so cool we put it on the quarter-sized breakout board you are currently viewing!

The LSM9DS1 is one of only a handful of IC’s that can measure three key properties of movement – angular velocity, acceleration, and heading – in a single IC. By measuring these three properties, you can gain a great deal of knowledge about an object’s movement and orientation. The LSM9DS1 measures each of these movement properties in three dimensions. That means it produces nine pieces of data: acceleration in x/y/z, angular rotation in x/y/z, and magnetic force in x/y/z. The LSM9DS1 Breakout has labels indicating the accelerometer and gyroscope axis orientations, which share a right-hand rule relationship with each other.

Each sensor in the LSM9DS1 supports a wide spectrum of ranges: the accelerometer’s scale can be set to ± 2, 4, 8, or 16 g, the gyroscope supports ± 245, 500, and 2000 °/s, and the magnetometer has full-scale ranges of ± 4, 8, 12, or 16 gauss.

Get Started with the LSM9DS1 Breakout Guide

Features

3 acceleration channels, 3 angular rate channels, 3 magnetic field channels

±2/±4/±8/±16 g linear acceleration full scale

±4/±8/±12/±16 gauss magnetic full scale

±245/±500/±2000 dps angular rate full scale

SPI / I2C serial interfaces

Operating Voltage: 3.3V

The LSM303C is a 6 Degrees of Freedom (6DOF) inertial measurement unit (IMU) in a single package, specifically developed as an eCompass device. Due to the IC housing a 3-axis accelerometer and a 3-axis magnetometer combined with its low cost, the LSM303C was perfect for us to create this small breakout board just for you! Each LSM303C Breakout has been designed to be super-flexible and can be configured specifically for many applications. The LSM303C Breakout can be configured to generate an interrupt signal for free-fall, motion detection and magnetic field detection!

The range of each sensor on the LSM303C is configurable: the accelerometer’s scale can be set to ±2g, ±4g, ±6g, or ±8g, while the magnetometer has full-scale range of ±16 gauss, and supports I2C and SPI communication.

Each pin has been broken out on the LSM303C, with 10 plated through-hole connections featuring power and I2C and SPI functionality, interrupt outputs, and accelerometer and magnetometer data out. Please keep in mind that the LSM303C is a 2.5V device so supplying voltages greater than ~4.8V can permanently damage the IC. As long as your Arduino has a 3.3V supply output, you shouldn’t need any extra level shifting.

Features

3 magnetic field channels and 3 acceleration channels

±16 gauss magnetic full scale

±2/±4/±8 g selectable acceleration full scale

16-bit data output

SPI / I2C serial interfaces

Analog supply voltage 1.9 V to 3.6 V

Power-down mode / low-power mode

Programmable interrupt generators for freefall, motion detection and magnetic field detection

Embedded temperature sensor

Embedded FIFO

This breakout board makes it easy to use the tiny MMA8452Q accelerometer in your project. The MMA8452Q is a smart low-power, three-axis, capacitive MEMS accelerometer with 12 bits of resolution. This accelerometer is packed with embedded functions with flexible user programmable options, configurable to two interrupt pins. Embedded interrupt functions allow for overall power savings relieving the host processor from continuously polling data.

The MMA8452Q has user selectable full scales of ±2g/±4g/±8g with high pass filtered data as well as non filtered data available real-time. The device can be configured to generate inertial wake-up interrupt signals from any combination of the configurable embedded functions allowing the MMA8452Q to monitor events and remain in a low power mode during periods of inactivity.

This board breaks out the ground, power, I2C and two external interrupt pins.

Note: If you are looking for the SparkFun Triple Axis Accelerometer Breakout with headers, it can be found here or in the Recommended Products below.

Get Started with the MMA8452Q Breakout Hookup Guide

Features

1.95 V to 3.6 V supply voltage

1.6 V to 3.6 V interface voltage

±2g/±4g/±8g dynamically selectable full-scale

Output Data Rates (ODR) from 1.56 Hz to 800 Hz

12-bit and 8-bit digital output

I2C digital output interface (operates to 2.25 MHz with 4.7 kΩ pullup)

Two programmable interrupt pins for six interrupt sources

Three embedded channels of motion detection

Orientation (Portrait/Landscape) detection with set hysteresis

High Pass Filter Data available real-time

Current Consumption: 6 μA – 165 μA

Replacement:SEN-10736. This board has been updated to use the HMC5883L instead of the end-of-life HMC5843. This page is for reference only.

The 9DOF Razor IMU incorporates three sensors - an ITG-3200 (triple-axis gyro), ADXL345 (triple-axis accelerometer), and HMC5843 (triple-axis magnetometer) - to give you nine degrees of inertial measurement. The outputs of all sensors are processed by an on-board ATmega328 and output over a serial interface. With the work of Jordi Munoz and many others, the 9DOF Razor can become an Attitude and Heading Reference System. This enables the 9DOF Razor to become a very powerful control mechanism for UAVs, autonomous vehicles and image stabilization systems.

The board comes programmed with the 8MHz Arduino bootloader and example firmware that tests the outputs of all the sensors. Simply connect to the serial TX and RX pins with a 3.3V FTDI Basic Breakout, open a terminal program to 38400bps and a menu will guide you through testing the sensors. You can use the Arduino IDE to program your code onto the 9DOF, just select the ‘Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (3.3v, 8mhz) w/ATmega328’ as your board.

The 9DOF operates at 3.3VDC; any power supplied to the white JST connector will be regulated down to this operating voltage - our LiPo batteries are an excellent power supply choice. The output header is designed to mate with our 3.3V FTDI Basic Breakout board, so you can easily connect the board to a computer’s USB port. Or, for a wireless solution, it can be connected to the Bluetooth Mate or an XBee Explorer.

Having a hard time picking an IMU? Our Accelerometer, Gyro, and IMU Buying Guide might help!

Note: This product is a collaboration with Jordi Munoz of 3d Robotics. A portion of each sales goes back to them for product support and continued development.

Note: We found these in inventory and they work fine but we’re no longer making them. We’ll be selling them at a discount for a limited time but when they’re gone, they’re gone!

Replaces:SEN-09623

Features

9 Degrees of Freedom on a single, flat board:

ITG-3200 - triple-axis digital-output gyroscope

ADXL345 - 13-bit resolution, ±16g, triple-axis accelerometer

HMC5843 - triple-axis, digital magnetometer

ITG-3200 - triple-axis digital-output gyroscope

ADXL345 - 13-bit resolution, ±16g, triple-axis accelerometer

HMC5843 - triple-axis, digital magnetometer

Outputs of all sensors processed by on-board ATmega328 and sent out via a serial stream

Autorun feature and help menu integrated into the example firmware

Output pins match up with FTDI Basic Breakout, Bluetooth Mate, XBee Explorer

3.5-16VDC input

ON-OFF control switch and reset switch

1.60 x 1.10 “ (40.64 x 27.94 mm)

Give your next sensor project a nose for gasses with the Adafruit MiCS-5524 Gas Sensor Breakout. This breakout makes it easy to use this nice sensor from SGX Sensortech. The MiCS-5524 is a robust MEMS sensor for indoor carbon monoxide and natural gas leakage detection, it's suitable also for indoor air quality monitoring; breath checker and early fire detection.

Please note: This sensor is sensitive to CO ( ~ 1 to 1000 ppm), Ammonia (~ 1 to 500 ppm), Ethanol (~ 10 to 500 ppm), H2 (~ 1 - 1000 ppm), and Methane / Propane / Iso-Butane (~ 1,000++ ppm). However, it can't tell you which gas it has detected. 

This breakout board is not for any safety, medical or finished product usage. We're selling it for hobby education & experimentation and don't guarantee it for any other purpose! All gas sensors require calibration for precision output.

Using it is easy: Power it with 5 VDC and read the analog voltage off of the output pin. When gasses are detected, the analog voltage will increase in proportion of detected gas. When powered, the heater draws about 25-35mA. You can use the EN pin to power it off (pull it high to 5V to turn off) to conserve energy. Just make sure to wait a second after turning the heater on to make sure its all heated before taking readings.

Each order comes with one assembled and tested MiCS-5524 breakout and a bit of header. You'll need to do some light soldering to attach the header on - or you can use just plain wires.

Check out the tutorial for files, example code, diagrams and more!

This is a board designed for opto-isolation. This board is helpful for connecting digital systems (like a 5V microcontroller) to a high-voltage or noisy system. This board electrically isolates a controller from the high-power system by use of an opto-isolator IC. This IC has two LEDs and two photodiodes built-in. This allows the low-voltage side to control a high voltage side.

We often use this board to allow a microcontroller control servos or other motors that use a higher voltage than the TTL logic on the (3.3V or 5V) micro, and may cause electromagnetic interferance with our system as the motors turn on and off. This board will isolate the systems, creating a type of electrical noise barrier between devices.

This breakout board uses the ILD213T optoisolator and discrete transistors to correct the logic. Comes with two channels. Great for use in noisy circuits where signal lines require electrical isolation.

A normal LED opto-isolator will invert the logic of a signal. We threw some transistors on this compact board to correct the inversion. What you put into the IN pins, will be replicated on the the OUT pins, but at the higher voltage (HV).

This little sensor is a great way to add UV light sensing to any microcontroller project. The VEML6070 from Vishay has a true UV A light sensor and an I2C-controlled ADC that will take readings and integrate them for you over ~60ms to 500ms.

Unlike the Si1145, this sensor will not give you UV Index readings. However, the Si1145 does UV Index approximations based on light level not true UV sensing. The VEML6070 in contrast does have a real light sensor in the UV spectrum. It's also got a much much simpler I2C interface so you can run it on the smallest microcontrollers with ease.

Unlike the GUVA analog sensor, the biasing and ADC is all internal so you don't need an ADC.

This UV sensor works great with 3 or 5V power or logic, its nice and compact, and its easy to use with any I2C-capable microcontroller. Each order comes with one assembled PCB with a sensor, some handy pullup resistors, a 270K rset resistor and a small piece of header. Some light soldering is required to attach the header but its a fast task!

Check out our tutorial for details on on how to use this sensor, including files, code and assembly!

If you’ve had ideas for a project that depends on the ability to sense different spectrums of visible light and react based on those measurements, the ISL29125 breakout board may be just what you need. The ISL29125 breakout board makes it very easy to sense and record the light intensity of the general red, green, and blue spectrums of visible light while rejecting IR from light sources. You can then use these color sensor readings for the purposes of logging and finding patterns, or creatively calculate and make control decisions in your electronic projects.

Each pin from the ISL29125 has been broken out to allow you to interface with it, SDA, SCL, 3.3V, GND, and even an optional INT pin is available for use. The ISL29125 Light Sensor operates at 3.3V but if you plan on using this chip with a 5V microcontroller make sure to use a logic level converter.

Features

Operating Voltage: 3.3V

Operating Current: 56µA

Selectable Range

I2C (SMBus compatible) Output

ADC Resolution 16 bits

SCL, SDA, INT, 3.3V, & GND Pins Broken Out

18.4mm x 17.2mm x 2.4mm (0.7" x 0.6" x 0.09")

Upgrade a project that uses a photocell with the GA1A12S202 analog light sensor. Like a CdS photo-cell, the sensor does not require a microcontroller, the analog voltage output increases with the amount of light shining on the sensor face. This sensor has a lot of improvements that make it better for nearly any project.The biggest improvement over plain photocells is a true log-lin relationship with light levels. Most light sensors have a linear relationship with light levels, which means that they're not very sensitive to changes in darkened areas and 'max' out very easily when there's a lot of light. Sometimes you can tweak a resistor to make them better in dark or bright light but its hard to get good performance at both ends. This sensor is logarithmic over a large dynamic range of 3 to 55,000 Lux, so it has a lot of sensitivity at low light levels but is also nearly impossible to "max out" so you can use it indoors or outdoors without changing code or calibration. Since the sensor is fabricated on a chip, there are also fewer manufacturing variations, so you won't have to calibrate the sensor from one board to another.Using the sensor is easy as pie: connect the Vin to 2.3-6VDC, Gnd to ground and measure the analog output on OUT. It will range up to 3V (at extremely bright outdoor sunlight). On an Arduino, just use analogRead() with the OUT pin connected to an analog pin. For more information including graphs, power consumption, etc check out the datasheet in the Tech Details tab. On this breakout we placed a 68KΩ resistor from OUT to ground to turn the current into a voltage.

GA1A12S202 Log-scale Analog Light Sensor (6:52)

Basic breakout board for the TEMT6000 Ambient Light Sensor. Only what you need, nothing you don’t. Sensor acts like a transistor - the greater the incoming light, the higher the analog voltage on the signal pin.

This I2C digital temperature sensor is one of the more accurate/precise we've ever seen, with a typical accuracy of ±0.25°C over the sensor's -40°C to +125°C range and precision of +0.0625°C. They work great with any microcontroller using standard i2c. There are 3 address pins so you can connect up to 8 to a single I2C bus without address collisions. Best of all, a wide voltage range makes it usable with 2.7V to 5.5V logic!Unlike the DS18B20, this sensor does not come in through-hole package so we placed this small sensor on a breakout board PCB for easy use. The PCB includes mounting holes, and pull down resistors for the 3 address pins. We even wrote a lovely little tutorial and library that will work with Arduino or CircuitPython. You'll be up and running in 15 minutes or less.Some quick specs:

Simple I2C control

Up to 8 on a single I2C bus with adjustable address pins

0.25°C typical precision over -40°C to 125°C range (0.5°C guaranteed max from -20°C to 100°C)

0.0625°C resolution

2.7V to 5.5V power and logic voltage range

Operating Current: 200 μA (typical)

The TSL2561 SparkFun Luminosity Sensor Breakout is a sophisticated light sensor which has a flat response across most of the visible spectrum. Unlike simpler sensors, the TSL2561 measures both infrared and visible light to better approximate the response of the human eye. And because the TSL2561 is an integrating sensor (it soaks up light for a predetermined amount of time), it is capable of measuring both small and large amounts of light by changing the integration time.

The TSL2561 is capable of direct I2C communication and is able to conduct specific light ranges from 0.1 - 40k+ Lux easily. Additionally, the TSL12561 contains two integrating analog-to-digital converters (ADC) that integrate currents from two photodiodes, simultaneously. Each breakout requires a supply voltage of 3V and a low supply current max of 0.6mA.

For years we've seen all sorts of microcontroller-friendly WiFi modules but none of them were really Adafruit-worthy. Either they were too slow, or too difficult to use, or required signing an NDA, or had limited functionality, or too expensive, or too large. So we shied away from carrying any general purpose microcontroller-friendly WiFi boards.NO LONGER! The CC3000 hits that sweet spot of usability, price and capability. It uses SPI for communication (not UART!) so you can push data as fast as you want or as slow as you want. It has a proper interrupt system with IRQ pin so you can have asynchronous connections. It supports 802.11b/g, open/WEP/WPA/WPA2 security, TKIP & AES. A built in TCP/IP stack with a "BSD socket" interface. TCP and UDP in both client and server mode, up to 4 concurrent sockets. It does not support "AP" mode, it can connect to an access point but it cannot be an access point.

New! As of 3/20/2014 we are shipping v1.1 which adds a tri-state buffer to the MISO pin so that you can use the CC3000 with other SPI devices on the same bus.

We wrapped this little silver modules in a tidy breakout board. It has an onboard 3.3V regulator that can handle the 350mA peak current, and a level shifter to allow 3 or 5V logic level. The antenna layout is identical to TI's suggested layout and we're using the same components, trace arrangement, and antenna so the board maintains its FCC emitter compliance (you'll still need to perform FCC validation for a finished product, but the WiFi part is taken care of). Even though it's got an onboard antenna we were pretty surprised at the range, as good as a smartphone's.Each order comes with one fully assembled and tested breakout and a small stick of header you can use to solder in and plug into a breadboard. We don't have a detailed tutorial yet but to get you started, we've got a fully working Arduino library that is based off of TI's codebase but adapted for use with the AVR. We also have example code showing how to scan the SSID's, connect to your access point and run DHCP, do a DNS lookup to IP address, ping a site and connect to a remote TCP socket such as a website and print out the page.Please note the hardware is good, but the library code does not yet support all of the CC3000's functionality. At this moment, SSID scanning, connection, DHCP, DNS lookup, ping, and UDP/TCP client & TCP server connections (eg connect to a website and grab data or host a very short website) all work and are tested with example code. Check out our tutorial for wiring and Arduino library downloadsFor use with Arduino Uno, Leonardo/Micro & Mega only at this time - we'll try to get the code ported to the Due at some point but no ETA.

Adafruit CC3000 Breakout with Onboard Ceramic Antenna (0:16)

Add Internet to your next project with an adorable, bite-sized WiFi microcontroller, at a price you like! The ESP8266 processor from Espressif is an 80 MHz microcontroller with a full WiFi front-end (both as client and access point) and TCP/IP stack with DNS support as well. While this chip has been very popular, its also been very difficult to use. Most of the low cost modules are not breadboard friendly, don't have an onboard 500mA 3.3V regulator or level shifting, and aren't CE or FCC emitter certified....UNTIL NOW!

The Adafruit HUZZAH ESP8266 breakout is what we designed to make working with this chip super easy and a lot of fun. We took a certified module with an onboard antenna, and plenty of pins, and soldered it onto our designed breakout PCBs. We added in:

Reset button,

User button that can also put the chip into bootloading mode,

Red LED you can blink,

Level shifting on the UART and reset pin,

3.3V out, 500mA regulator (you'll want to assume the ESP8266 can draw up to 250mA so budget accordingly)

Two diode-protected power inputs (one for a USB cable, another for a battery)

Two parallel, breadboard-friendly breakouts on either side give you access to:

1 x Analog input (1.0V max)

9 x GPIO (3.3V logic), which can also be used for I2C or SPI

2 x UART pins

2 x 3-6V power inputs, reset, enable, LDO-disable, 3.3V output

One breakout at the end has an "FTDI" pinout so you can plug in an FTDI or console cable to upload software and read/write debugging information via the UART. When you're done with your coding, remove the cable, and this little module can be embeded into your project box.

Each module comes pre-loaded with NodeMCU's Lua interpreter (NodeMCU 0.9.5 build 20150318 / Lua 5.1.4 to be specific), you can run commands, and 'save' Lua programs directly to the module's Flash using a USB-Serial converter cable. But, if you'd like, you can skip Lua and go direct to using the Arduino IDE. Once you download the ESP8266 core, you can treat it just like a microcontroller+WiFi board, no other processors needed!

Each order comes with one assembled and tested HUZZAH ESP8266 breakout board, and a stick of 0.1" header that you can solder on and plug the breakout into a breadboard. A soldering iron and solder are required for that, and aren't included. Solderless breadboard also not included. You'll really want a USB-serial cable such as a USB console cable (good for Windows, not suggested for MacOSX users),  FTDI Friend (great for any OS), or FTDI cable (great for any OS)  to upload software to the HUZZAH ESP8266! Our essential tutorial has wiring, pinouts, assembly, downloads, and more!

This is a simple-to-use Carbon Monoxide (CO) sensor, suitable for sensing CO concentrations in the air. The MQ-7 can detect CO-gas concentrations anywhere from 20 to 2000ppm.

This sensor has a high sensitivity and fast response time. The sensor’s output is an analog resistance. The drive circuit is very simple; all you need to do is power the heater coil with 5V, add a load resistance, and connect the output to an ADC.

This sensor comes in a package similar to our MQ-3 alcohol sensor, and can be used with the breakout board below.

This breakout board is the simplest way to create a project with a single "toggle" capacitive touch sensor. No microcontroller is required here - just power with 1.8 to 5.5VDC and touch the pad to activate the sensor.This sensor is a toggle output type: touch-on then touch-off. That means that when a capacitive load is detected (e.g. a person touches the sensor-pad area) the red LED will alternate turning off and the output pin will go high or low, respectively. This sensor is good for a project where you want to activate something on the first touch, then deactivate it when touching again, like a switch. You can also solder a wire to the middle pad and create your own capacitive pad if the built-in one isn't suited to your project.If you want to save power, the LED can be disconnected from the output pin (cut the trace between the jumper marked as such). We designed this breakout to have infinite time-out. The chip does support having the sensor time-out, so for example, if something is turned on, it will eventually turn off on its own. If you'd like to use this mode, cut the TIMER jumper and then connect a resistor/capacitor to the TIME pin. Check the datasheet for how to calculate the TIME pin to match your desired timeout.Comes with a fully assembled board, and a small stick of 0.1" header so you can solder and plug it into a breadboard. For additional contacts, we suggest using copper foil, then solder a wire that connects from the foil pad to the breakout.The datasheet has many details on sensitivity, power usage, etc.

Standalone Toggle Capacitive Touch Sensor Breakout (11:10)

This breakout board is the simplest way to create a project with a single "momentary" capacitive touch sensor. No microcontroller is required here - just power with 1.8 to 5.5VDC and touch the pad to activate the sensor.When a capacitive load is detected (e.g. a person touches the sensor-pad area) the red LED lights up and the output pin goes high. You can also solder a wire to the middle pad and create your own capacitive pad if the built-in one isn't suited to your project.If you want to save power, the LED can be disconnected from the output pin (cut the trace between the jumper marked as such). We designed this breakout to have the more-responsive "fast mode" which draws about 0.5mA. If you need ultra-low (~50uA) power usage, the mode jumper can be cut on one side & soldered closed on the other to fix it into that mode. Check the datasheet for specific power usage measurements.Comes with a fully assembled board, and a small stick of 0.1" header so you can solder and plug it into a breadboard. For additional contacts, we suggest using copper foil, then solder a wire that connects from the foil pad to the breakout.The datasheet has many details on sensitivity, power usage, etc.

Standalone Momentary Capacitive Touch Sensor Breakout (11:10)

The datasheet for the DS3231 explains that this part is an "Extremely Accurate I²C-Integrated RTC/TCXO/Crystal". And, hey, it does exactly what it says on the tin! This Real Time Clock (RTC) is the most precise you can get in a small, low power package.

Most RTCs use an external 32kHz timing crystal that is used to keep time with low current draw. And that's all well and good, but those crystals have slight drift, particularly when the temperature changes (the temperature changes the oscillation frequency very very very slightly but it does add up!) This RTC is in a beefy package because the crystal is inside the chip! And right next to the integrated crystal is a temperature sensor. That sensor compensates for the frequency changes by adding or removing clock ticks so that the timekeeping stays on schedule.

This is the finest RTC you can get, and now we have it in a compact, breadboard-friendly breakout. With a coin cell plugged into the back, you can get years of precision timekeeping, even when main power is lost. Great for datalogging and clocks, or anything where you need to really know the time.

Comes as a fully assembled and tested breakout plus a small piece of header. You can solder header in to plug it into a breadboard, or solder wires directly.

A coin cell is required to use the battery-backup capabilities! We don't include one by default, to make shipping easier for those abroad, but we do stock them so pick one up or use any CR1220 you have handy.

Check out our detailed tutorial for pinouts, assembly, wiring & code for both Arduino and CircuitPython, and more!

This is a great battery-backed real time clock (RTC) that allows your microcontroller project to keep track of time even if it is reprogrammed, or if the power is lost. Perfect for datalogging, clock-building, time stamping, timers and alarms, etc. The DS1307 is the most popular RTC - but it requires 5V power to work (although we've used it with 5V power and 3.3V logic successfully)

Works great with an Arduino using our RTC library or with a Raspberry Pi (or similar single board linux computer)

PCB & header are included

Plugs into any breadboard, or you can use wires

Two mounting holes

Will keep time for 5 years or more

Note: This product does not come with a CR1220 coin cell battery. We recommend you purchase a coin cell battery to use with this product.

The DS1307 is simple and inexpensive but not a high precision device. It may lose or gain up to 2 seconds a day. For a high-precision, temperature compensated alternative, please check out the DS3231 precision RTC. If you do not need a DS1307, or you need a 3.3V-power/logic capable RTC please check out our affordable PCF8523 RTC breakout

Check out our detailed guide for wiring diagrams, schematics, fritzing objects, library code and more!

This is a breakout for the BC127 Bluetooth Module. The BC127 is a highly flexible, low power, small form factor Bluetooth Version 4.0 Certified Audio module. This is an ideal module for developers who want to quickly and cost effectively integrate Bluetooth functionality into their products.

The BC127 Breakout board provides basic access to all the pins on the BC127 module, along with a six-pin serial header with the same pinout as the FTDI Basic boards, allowing it to connect to boards like the Arduino Pro, Pro Mini, and LilyPad. It also includes voltage regulation, serial data level shifting circuitry, and support for the built-in battery charge circuitry.

Wouldn't it be cool to drive a tiny OLED display, read a color sensor, or even just flash some LEDs directly from your computer?  Sure you can program an Arduino or Trinket to talk to these devices and your computer, but why can't your computer just talk to those devices and sensors itself?  Well, now your computer can talk to devices using the Adafruit FT232H breakout board!

What can the FT232H chip do?  This chip from FTDI is similar to their USB to serial converter chips but adds a 'multi-protocol synchronous serial engine' which allows it to speak many common protocols like SPI, I2C, serial UART, JTAG, and more!  There's even a handful of digital GPIO pins that you can read and write to do things like flash LEDs, read switches or buttons, and more.  The FT232H breakout is like adding a little swiss army knife for serial protocols to your computer!

This chip is powerful and useful to have when you want to use Python (for example) to quickly iterate and test a device that uses I2C, SPI or plain general purpose I/O. There's no firmware to deal with, so you don't have to deal with how to "send data to and from an Arduino which is then sent to and from" an electronic sensor or display or part.

This breakout has an FT232H chip and an EEPROM for onboard configuration. You can read tons more about this chip from FTDI's page and check out our tutorial on how to get started and use our Python code to control the FT232H with Mac/Win/Linux.

You’ve always wanted to output analog voltages from a microcontroller, the MCP4725 is the DAC that will let you do it! The MCP4725 is an I2C controlled Digital-to-Analog converter (DAC). A DAC allows you to send analog signal, such as a sine wave, from a digital source, such as the I2C interface on the Arduino microcontroller. Digital to analog converters are great for sound generation, musical instruments, and many other creative projects!

This version of the MCP4725 Breakout fixes a few issues with the board including the IC footprint, the I2C pinout, changes the overall board dimensions to better fit your projects, and a few more minor tweaks. This board breaks out each pin you will need to access and use the MCP4725 including GND and Signal OUT pins for connecting to an oscilloscope or any other device you need to hook up to the board. Also on board are SCL, SDA, VCC, and another GND for your basic I2C pinout. Additionally, if you are looking to have more than one MCP4725 on a bus, the pull-up resistors on this board can be disabled just check the Hookup Guide in the Documents section below for instructions and tips on doing this.

Features

12-bit resolution

I2C Interface (Standard, Fast, and High-Speed supported)

Small package

2.7V to 5.5V supply

Internal EEPROM to store settings

You just found the perfect I2C sensor, and you want to wire up two or three or more of them to your Arduino when you realize "Uh oh, this chip has a fixed I2C address, and from what I know about I2C, you cannot have two devices with the same address on the same SDA/SCL pins!" Are you out of luck? You would be, if you didn't have this ultra-cool TCA9548A 1-to-8 I2C multiplexer!

Finally, a way to get up to 8 same-address I2C devices hooked up to one microcontroller - this multiplexer acts as a gatekeeper, shuttling the commands to the selected set of I2C pins with your command.

Using it is fairly straight-forward: the multiplexer itself is on I2C address 0x70 (but can be adjusted from 0x70 to 0x77) and you simply write a single byte with the desired multiplexed output number to that port, and bam - any future I2C packets will get sent to that port. In theory, you could have 8 of these multiplexers on each of 0x70-0x77 addresses in order to control 64 of the same-I2C-addressed-part.

Like all Adafruit breakouts, we put this nice chip on a breakout for you so you can use it on a breadboard with capacitors, and pullups and pulldowns to make usage a snap. Some header is required and once soldered in you can plug it into a solderless-breadboard. The chip itself is 3V and 5V compliant so you can use it with any logic level.

We even wrote up a nice tutorial with wiring diagrams, schematics and examples to get you running in 10 minutes!

This is the LilyPad revision of our FTDI Basic. It is the same as our other FTDI Basic, but has a purple LilyPad board which is half the thickness.

This is a basic breakout board for the FTDI FT232RL USB to serial IC. The pinout of this board matches the FTDI cable to work with official Arduino and cloned 5V Arduino boards. It can also be used for general serial applications. The major difference with this board is that it brings out the DTR pin as opposed to the RTS pin of the FTDI cable. The DTR pin allows an Arduino target to auto-reset when a new Sketch is downloaded. This is a really nice feature to have and allows a sketch to be downloaded without having to hit the reset button. This board will auto reset any Arduino board that has the reset pin brought out to a 6-pin connector.

The pins labeled BLK and GRN correspond to the colored wires on the FTDI cable. The black wire on the FTDI cable is GND, green is CTS. Use these BLK and GRN pins to align the FTDI basic board with your Arduino target.

This board has TX and RX LEDs that make it a bit better to use over the FTDI cable. You can actually see serial traffic on the LEDs to verify if the board is working.

This board was designed to decrease the cost of Arduino development and increase ease of use (the auto-reset feature rocks!). Our Arduino Pro boards and LilyPads use this type of connector.

One of the nice features of this board is a jumper on the back of the board that allows the board to be configured to either 3.3V or 5V (both power output and IO level). This board ship as 5V, but you can cut the default trace and add a solder jumper if you need to switch to 3.3V.

Note: We know a lot of you prefer microUSB over miniUSB. Never fear, we’ve got you covered! Check out our FT231X Breakout for your micro FTDI needs!

Note: A portion of this sale is given back to Dr. Leah Buechley for continued development and education of e-textiles.