Stretch out your servo connections with this flexible servo extension cord. It has a 3 pin shrouded "male" connection to plug your servo into and then, 50cm later, a 3 pin female connection. It even keeps the common red/black/white color coding. A great add-on to our 16 channel PWM/Servo driver and goes with all the servos we carry.

Oh so adorable, this is the tiniest little lipo charger, so handy you can keep it any project box! Its also easy to use. Simply plug in the gold plated contacts into any USB port and a 3.7V/4.2V lithium polymer or lithium ion rechargeable battery into the JST plug on the other end. There are two LEDs - one red and one green. While charging, the red LED is lit. When the battery is fully charged and ready for use, the green LED turns on. Seriously, it could not get more easy.Charging is performed in three stages: first a preconditioning charge, then a constant-current fast charge and finally a constant-voltage trickle charge to keep the battery topped-up. The charge current is 100mA by default, so it will work with any size battery and USB port. If you want you can easily change it over to 500mA mode by soldering closed the jumper on the back, for when you'll only be charging batteries with 500mAh size or larger.For use with Adafruit LiPoly/LiIon batteries only! Other batteries may have different voltage, chemistry, polarity or pinout.

Comes assembled and tested with a free bonus JST cable!

5V input via PCB-style USB connector

For charging single Lithium Ion/Lithium Polymer 3.7/4.2v batteries (not for older 3.6/4.1v cells)

100mA charge current, adjustable to 500mA by soldering a jumper closed

Free 2-pin JST cable included!

The MicroLipo charger can get hot during charging. Grab it by the sides and unplug then let cool before removing the battery - take care not to touch the components during charging!

Batteries not included.

Adafruit Micro Lipo - USB LiIon/LiPoly charger (18:22)

Oh so handy, this little lipo charger is so small and easy to use you can keep it on your desk or mount it easily into any project! Simply plug it via any MicroUSB cable into a USB port and a 3.7V/4.2V lithium polymer or lithium ion rechargeable battery into the JST plug on the other end. There are two LEDs - one red and one green. While charging, the red LED is lit. When the battery is fully charged and ready for use, the green LED turns on. Seriously, it could not get more easy.Charging is performed in three stages: first a preconditioning charge, then a constant-current fast charge and finally a constant-voltage trickle charge to keep the battery topped-up. The charge current is 100mA by default, so it will work with any size battery and USB port. If you want you can easily change it over to 500mA mode by soldering closed the jumper on the front, for when you'll only be charging batteries with 500mAh size or larger.For use with Adafruit LiPoly/LiIon batteries only! Other batteries may have different voltage, chemistry, polarity or pinout.

Comes assembled and tested with a free bonus JST cable!

5V input via Micro-B USB connector

For charging single Lithium Ion/Lithium Polymer 3.7/4.2v batteries (not for older 3.6/4.1v cells)

100mA charge current, adjustable to 500mA by soldering a jumper closed

Batteries not included.

It's 10PM, do you know where your Raspberry Pi is? If you had this GPS HAT, you would! This new HAT from Adafruit adds our celebrated Ultimate GPS on it, so you can add precision time and location to your Raspberry Pi Model Pi 3, Pi Zero, A+, B+, or Pi 2

Here's the low-down on the GPS module:

-165 dBm sensitivity, 10 Hz updates, 66 channels

Only 20mA current draw

Built in Real Time Clock (RTC) - slot in a CR1220 backup battery for 7-years or more of timekeeping even if the Raspberry Pi is off!

PPS output on fix, by default connected to pin #4

Internal patch antenna which works quite well when used outdoors + u.FL connector for external active antenna for when used indoors or in locations without a clear sky view

Fix status LED blinks to let you know when the GPS has determined the current coordinates

We spun up a HAT based on our Ultimate GPS, added a coin-cell holder for RTC usage, break-outs for all the Raspberry Pi's extra pins, and plenty of prototyping area for adding LEDs, sensors, and more.

Please note, this HAT takes over the Raspberry Pi's hardware UART to send/receive data to and from the GPS module. So, if you need to use the RX/TX pins with a console cable, you cannot also use this HAT. Instead, you'll have to use a composite or HDMI monitor and keyboard to log in, or use ssh to connect over the network to your Pi. Read up on our tutorial for more information on how to use this fine HAT

Comes as a fully assembled GPS + PCB and an additional 2x20 GPIO header. Some light soldering is required to attach the 2x20 GPIO header to the HAT but it's fast and easy for anyone with a soldering iron and solder. You can also swap the plain female header we have with a 'stacky' type that lets you plug in a hat or GPIO cable on top or a slim ultra-low-profile header.

To make air-shipping eaiser, this HAT does not come with a 12mm coin battery! A CR1220 will let you use the real-time-clock capability of the GPS HAT, you can pick one up locally or order one from us.

The Pan-Tilt HAT from Pimoroni lets you mount and control a pan-tilt module right on top of your Raspberry Pi. The HAT and its on-board microcontroller let you independently drive the two servos (pan and tilt), as well as driving up to 24 regular LED (with PWM control) or NeoPixel RGB (or RGBW) LEDs. There's also a handy slot through which you can route the servo, LED, and camera cables. The module pans and tilts through 180 degrees in each axis.

Use Pan-Tilt HAT with a Pi camera for face-tracking, or mount it on top of your roving robot as a set of eyes. Ideal for a mini CCTV system, it will allow you to control the movement of your Pi camera with minimal fuss. Or why not just stick a foam sword on top and make it swashbuckle?!

There's absolutely no soldering required (unless you decide to use a NeoPixel strip or ring with it), as the servos on the pan-tilt module have female jumper wires attached and they've soldered a strip of right-angled header pins to the underside of the HAT to connect them up.

They've also included a handy little acrylic camera mount to hold your camera snugly in the head of the pan-tilt module. The mount has a couple of mounting holes at the top to hold a NeoPixel stick and there's a neat little frosted diffuser to make the light super-dreamy. You can use one of our RGBW NeoPixel sticks for a lovely pure white glow (or any other color!)

Note that the Pi camera, mini pan-tilt kit, NeoPixel strip, and Pi 3 are not included. You'll need to pick them up separately!

Features

Pan-tilt module (180 degrees motion through each axis) with two servos

HAT with two servo channels, one PWM or NeoPixel RGB (or RGBW) LED channel

Right-angled header pre-soldered to underside of HAT for servo and LED channels

Slot to route servo, LED, and camera cables through

Acrylic mount to hold Pi camera and NeoPixel strip (with diffuser) in place

Compatible with Raspberry Pi 3, 2, B+, A+, and Zero

Python library

Comes fully assembled

Pulse Sensor Amped is a greatly improved version of the original Pulse Sensor, a plug-and-play heart-rate sensor for Arduino and Arduino compatibles. It can be used by students, artists, athletes, makers, and game & mobile developers who want to easily incorporate live heart-rate data into their projects.Pulse Sensor Amped adds amplification and noise cancellation circuitry to the hardware. It's noticeably faster and easier to get reliable pulse readings. Pulse Sensor Amped works with either a 3V or 5V Arduino.Lastly, the Pulse Sensor creators have also streamlined and improved the Processing visualization software and Arduino code that comes with this hardware.The kit includes:

A 24-inch Color-Coded Cable, with a standard male header connectors. Plug it straight into an Arduino or a Breadboard. No soldering is required.

An Ear Clip, perfectly sized to the sensor. It can be hot-glued or epoxied to the back of the sensor to get reading from an ear lobe.

Parts to make a handy Velcro finger strap. This is another great way to get heart-rate data.

4 Transparent Stickers, to insulate the front of the Pulse Sensor from oily fingers and sweaty earlobes.

The Pulse Sensor has 3 holes around the outside edge which make it easy to sew it into almost anything.

Visualization software (made in Processing) to instantly see output of the sensor and for troubleshooting.

Locate your stuff! The Asset Tracker Kit from Particle contains all of the pieces you need to build a GSM + GPS location tracker for your most prized possessions. In addition to a GPS Shield, the Asset Tracker Kit comes with a weatherproof enclosure, so it’ll keep your electronics safe from the dust, dirt, and moisture of the great outdoors. Keep your bicycle, baby, and backpack safe--satellite lock onto this bargain project kit today!

The Asset Tracker Kit comes with a Particle SIM card with service in more than 100 countries worldwide, and includes 3 months of Particle's 1MB monthly data plan for IoT devices. All Electrons also include Particle's development tools, access to a cloud platform with messaging, and a SIM dashboard for managing and updating your new connected hardware.

The Electron is a GSM-only device, and does not support CDMA networks. Some US carriers are planning to sunset their 2G networks beginning in 2017, so the Electron 3G (Americas) is recommended for customers in the US.

This is the 2G Global version. Particle also offers two types of Electron 3G Kits—the aforementioned one for North and South America (850/1900 MHz) and one for Europe/Asia/Africa (900/1800 MHz). Check the full list of compatible countries for the location in which your product will be deployed.

Contents:

Electron

USB Micro B Cable

Particle SIM Card

Cellular Antenna

2000mAh LiPo Battery

Particle Sticker

Resistor 220-Ohm

Breadboard

Photoresistor

Bright LED - White

Basic Data Charges*:

Particle's 1MB monthly data plan: - 3 months included with kit- $2.99/month for 1MB (thousands of messages) - No contracts, cancel anytime

$0.99/each additional MB

3G Global and 3G Americas/Aus versions also available.

*Data rates vary by country and by data usage, see here for full pricing and bulk discounts.

** Continent compatibility is simplified and exceptions exist. Please be sure to check the full list of compatible countries for the location in which your product will be deployed.

So you have a Teensy and a RGB LED Matrix Panel and you want an easy way to add graphics to your matrix without having to toss aside your Teensy or do too much soldering. Enter the SmartMatrix SmartLED Shield (V4) for Teensy 3.2, 3.5, or 3.6 (not the Teensy LC)!

The SmartLED Shield gives you an easy way to connect up a Teensy 3.2, Teensy 3.5, or Teensy 3.6 to one of our RGB LED Matrix Panels. The example sketches included with the SmartMatrix Library will get you started quickly displaying graphics, patterns, or even animated GIFs from a microSD card on your panel.

Features

Shield is fully assembled, no soldering required (besides adding pins to the Teensy)

HUB75 pinout, connects to panel directly or using panel's ribbon cable

5V level shifters for better compatibility with 5V panels

Support for driving Dotstar/APA102 LEDs in parallel with the LED panel, connects directly to 4-pin JST SM cable on Dotstar LEDs, or use the included cable

Expansion rows for main Teensy pins, making signals available for prototyping

Teensy is easily removed from the shield

Note: compared to previous versions of the SmartMatrix Shield, the microSD card slot was removed, as it is redundant when combined with the Teensy 3.5/3.6

The shield brings the 13 I/O signals needed to drive the panel out to a connector that matches the pinout on the panel, and brings the rest of the I/O signals out to convenient expansion headers.  The board includes pre-soldered 5V level shifters.

It's a great board for easily expanding your Teensy's capabilities. You'll also need to program in your Teensy with the SmartMatrix code available on the project website.

Give your Ultimate GPS V3 a boost with this external active antenna. This GPS antenna draws about 10mA and will give you an additional 28 dB of gain. It's got a 5 meter long cable so it will easily reach wherever you need it to. The antenna is magnetic so it will stick to the top of a car or truck (or any other steel structure)Comes with a standard SMA connector on the end. If you want to connect to our Ultimate GPS V3 module, be sure to pick up a uFL to SMA adapter!GPS not included.

This battery holder connects 3 AAA batteries together in series for powering all kinds of projects. We spec'd these out because the box is slim, and 3 AAA's add up to about 3.3-4.5V, a very similar range to Lithium Ion/polymer (Li-Ion) batteries, plus it has a nifty on-off switch. That makes them ideal for use with 3.3V projects that have a 2-pin JST connector meant for one of our Li-Ion/Poly batteries. (Of course, you can't recharge them like Li-Ion/Polys, so don't try to plug this into one of our Li-Ion/Poly charger boards!) It also features an ergonomic belt clip for taking your power on the go.Fits any standard AAA battery. When using rechargeable NiMH the output voltage will range from about 3.7V with charged batteries to 2.7V at the end of life with a nominal voltage of 3.6V. When using alkalines, the output will range from 4.6V with new batteries to 3.3V at the end of life with a nominal voltage of about 4.5V.The polarity matches that of our 2-pin JST cable and Li-Ion/Poly batteries. Uses a genuine JST connector so it wont 'catch and tear' in JST connectors.

If you didn't think that the Raspberry Pi Zero could possibly get any better, then boy do we have a pleasant surprise for you! The new Raspberry Pi Zero W offers all the benefits of the Pi Zero v1.3, but with one big difference – built-in WiFi!

More specifically, this giant upgrade is the addition of a BCM43143 WiFi chip BUILT-IN to your Raspberry Pi Zero – just like the Pi 3! No more pesky WiFi adapters - this Pi is WiFi ready. There’s also Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) on board making the Pi an excellent IoT solution (BLE support is still in the works, software-wise).

We also have a basic pack, budget pack and starter pack with all the essentials to get your Zero W up and running.

Note: Due to popular demand, there might be some delay in shipping products containing Pi Zero W!

At first glance, the Pi Zero W looks just like the Raspberry Pi Zero v1.3 we know and love. But when we started to think of the added convenience of not having to worry about hooking up a WiFi dongle or Ethernet cable - and what a well-chosen set of accessories could add - we realized the appeal. And then we saw the price...could it be true? Yes!

This is the slimmest, most pared down Raspberry Pi to date. It's kind of like the little cousin to the Pi 3 - with just a micro SD card slot, a mini HDMI port, two micro USB ports (one for power, one for USB), and 512MB of RAM. It has a single-core 1 GHz processor chip, similar to the Pi A+ and B+.

The best part about all this is that the Pi Zero W keeps the same shape, connectors, and mounting holes as the Pi Zero v1.3. 99% of cases and accessories will still be fully compatible with both the Pi Zero W and v1.3 - though if you have a case with a metal top there might be some WiFi chip difficulties.

Please note - even though there's built-in WiFi, the Pi Zero W is quite minimal and requires a few accessories to turn it into a computer! At a minimum we recommend:

A good quality 5V power supply - Either a 5V 2A with cable or combine a  5V 1A power supply and a Micro B USB cable - this will allow you to power the Zero from a wall adaper. It is not suggested to power the Zero from a computer USB port as the voltage often sags and can cause SD card corruption!

4GB+ SD Card with Operating System - You can grab a ready-to-go Raspbian card that has the correct firmware for the Zero here. Or you can pick up an 8G card with NOOBS 2.0. Or use a blank 4G SD card and burn in Raspbian Wheezy and update the firmware. Make sure you have the latest version!

Mini HDMI to HDMI Adapter - Will let you convert the little port on the Zero to a standard sized HDMI jack. You can get 1080P HDMI video + audio out of this little computer!

USB OTG Cable - Lets you plug in a normal USB device such as WiFi dongle, USB hub, keyboard, mouse, etc into the Zero.

USB Console cable - if you're not going to stick an HDMI monitor on there, then this is essential, you connect the wires to the GPIO pins and log in over a serial console. Its the easiest & fastest way to get on your Pi

2x20 Male header strip - Solder this in to plug in Pi HATs, GPIO cables, etc as you would into a normal Pi. (We also have a 2x20 Female and 2x20 Female right-angle style for more exotic connecting)

To keep the price and size as small as possible, there is a spot on the Zero for a 2x20 pin header. This header is not included or soldered on. Creative individuals can easily solder in a set of 2x20 male header strip so you can plug in any sort of Pi HAT or other plug-in topper.  Or, go with a 2x20 female header and plug the Pi Zero directly into an Adafruit Cobbler or T-Cobbler.  

We also strongly recommend some other parts and pieces to make your Pi Zero computing experience easier:

Adafruit Pi Zero Enclosure - Adafruit's classic, sturdy plastic enclosure. Keeps your Pi Zero safe and sleek.

Pi Zero Protector - Keep your Pi Zero safe while handling with this simple sandwich-style acrylic case.

USB Powered Hub - So you can plug in any kind of USB devices without overloading the Zero's power supply. (You can also, ironically, power the Zero from the hub itself by plugging in a micro USB cable into the hub)

Mini Wireless Keyboard w/Trackpad - Requires only one USB port, which makes it a great match for the Pi Zero

Wireless Keyboard + Mouse set - Also requires only one USB port, but for everyday use.

Pi Cobbler or T-Cobbler - When paired with the male or female 2x20 pin header, you can use your Zero with a breadboard to connect sensors, LEDs, motors and more!

Ethernet Hub and USB Hub w/ Micro USB OTG Connector - One can never have enough socks, or USB ports. Add some more USB and Ethernet capability to your Raspberry Pi Zero if you're an Ethernet enthusiast!

Please note: Some boards are made in the UK, some in China. WE DO NOT KNOW IN ADVANCE WHICH ONES YOU MAY RECEIVE!

PiJack is a HAT (yes, a proper HAT, not a pHAT!) add-on board for the Raspberry Pi Zero mini computer that makes connecting your Pi Zero to the Internet via Ethernet super simple. If you're fed up with flaky WiFi and want your Pi Zero to be online all the time, then this HAT is for you!

PiJack is a neat little board with an Ethernet controller and standard RJ45 connector so you can hook your Pi up to your home or office network using standard Ethernet cables. PiJack is ready to go – there's no special software or drivers to install. It works right out of the box with Raspbian – simply attach PiJack to your Pi's GPIO header and plug it in!

Features:

10Mbps Ethernet connection

Two blinky LEDs for connection status

HAT-standard-compliant EEPROM makes setup automatic, works straight away with Raspbian!

Uses the Pi Zero's GPIO pins, your USB connector is still free for something else!

Note: Pi Zero and Ethernet cable not included!

PiJack is well engineered and uses high quality components and connectors (that won't snap off the first time you use it!). PiJack is built in the EU, and every board is tested to make sure it'll work for you first time.

The Intel® Edison is an ultra small computing platform that will change the way you look at embedded electronics. Each Edison is packed with a huge amount of tech goodies into a tiny package while still providing the same robust strength of your go-to single board computer. Powered by the Intel® Atom™ SoC dual-core CPU and including an integrated WiFi, Bluetooth LE, and a 70-pin connector to attach a veritable slew of shield-like “Blocks” which can be stacked on top of each other. It’s no wonder how this little guy is lowering the barrier of entry on the world of electronics!

The Battery Block brings a single cell LiPo Charger and 400mAh battery to power an Intel® Edision and expansion blocks. The Battery board can be used with an external battery to increase runtime of your Edison which can be plugged in with a micro USB cable to deliver a 500mA charge current. Additionally, the power switch removes the battery from the Edison while allowing it to charge via the microUSB cable. If you need more battery life, it is possible to gently peel the battery off, de-solder the wires, and replace it with a larger cell. If you remove the battery, it is also possible to expose the expansion header to continue stacking blocks. It may be necessary to find an alternative mounting point for your battery in this case. Go wireless with Edison!

If you are looking to add a little more stability to your Intel® Edison stack, check out this Hardware Pack. It will provide you with increased mechanical strength for stacking Blocks on your Edison!

Note: This Block requires specific stacking considerations when attaching it to other SparkFun Edison Blocks. Check the Hookup Guide in the Documents section below for more information.

Note: This item may take longer to process due to battery installed in the equipment and therefore does not qualify for same-day shipping policy. Additionally, these batteries can not be shipped via Ground or Economy methods to Alaska or Hawaii. Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause.

Includes

1x Battery Block

1x 400mAh LiPo Battery

The Intel® Edison is an ultra small computing platform that will change the way you look at embedded electronics. Each Edison is packed with a huge amount of tech goodies into a tiny package while still providing the same robust strength of your go-to single board computer. Powered by the Intel® Atom™ SoC dual-core CPU and including an integrated WiFi, Bluetooth LE, and a 70-pin connector to attach a veritable slew of shield-like “Blocks” which can be stacked on top of each other. It’s no wonder how this little guy is lowering the barrier of entry on the world of electronics!

The Console UART Block delivers power to the Intel® Edison while providing a simple console interface via a FTDI cable. This is the most minimal solution to get started using the Intel® Edison. This board can supply 4V and up to 500mA of current to power the Edison passed through it’s VSYS line and any other expansion boards you may add to your stack. This is a great board for low power applications that won’t require constant console access. By removing the FTDI USB-UART from the board, current consumption is minimal. When the FTDI cable is not inserted, it will be necessary to provide external power to the board.

If you are looking to add a little more stability to your Intel® Edison stack, check out this Hardware Pack. It will provide you with increased mechanical strength for stacking Blocks on your Edison!

Note: The 3.3V FTDI breakout will NOT work with this block, but the 5V version will.

This is the newest revision of our FTDI Basic. We now use a SMD 6-pin header on the bottom, which makes it smaller and more compact. Functionality has remained the same.

This is a basic breakout board for the FTDI FT232RL USB to serial IC. The pinout of this board matches the FTDI cable to work with official Arduino and cloned 5V Arduino boards. It can also be used for general serial applications. The major difference with this board is that it brings out the DTR pin as opposed to the RTS pin of the FTDI cable. The DTR pin allows an Arduino target to auto-reset when a new Sketch is downloaded. This is a really nice feature to have and allows a sketch to be downloaded without having to hit the reset button. This board will auto reset any Arduino board that has the reset pin brought out to a 6-pin connector.

The pins labeled BLK and GRN correspond to the colored wires on the FTDI cable. The black wire on the FTDI cable is GND, green is CTS. Use these BLK and GRN pins to align the FTDI basic board with your Arduino target.

This board has TX and RX LEDs that make it a bit better to use over the FTDI cable. You can actually see serial traffic on the LEDs to verify if the board is working.

This board was designed to decrease the cost of Arduino development and increase ease of use (the auto-reset feature rocks!). Our Arduino Pro boards and LilyPads use this type of connector.

One of the nice features of this board is a jumper on the back of the board that allows the board to be configured to either 3.3V or 5V (both power output and IO level). This board ship default to 5V, but you can cut the default trace and add a solder jumper if you need to switch to 3.3V.

Note: We know a lot of you prefer microUSB over miniUSB. Never fear, we’ve got you covered! Check out our FT231X Breakout for your micro FTDI needs!

This is the newest revision of our FTDI Basic. We now use a SMD 6-pin header on the bottom, which makes it smaller and more compact. Functionality has remained the same.

This is a basic breakout board for the FTDI FT232RL USB to serial IC. The pinout of this board matches the FTDI cable to work with official Arduino and cloned 3.3V Arduino boards. It can also be used for general serial applications. The major difference with this board is that it brings out the DTR pin as opposed to the RTS pin of the FTDI cable. The DTR pin allows an Arduino target to auto-reset when a new Sketch is downloaded. This is a really nice feature to have and allows a sketch to be downloaded without having to hit the reset button. This board will auto reset any Arduino board that has the reset pin brought out to a 6-pin connector.

The pins labeled BLK and GRN correspond to the colored wires on the FTDI cable. The black wire on the FTDI cable is GND, green is DTR. Use these BLK and GRN pins to align the FTDI basic board with your Arduino target.

There are pros and cons to the FTDI Cable vs the FTDI Basic. This board has TX and RX LEDs that allow you to actually see serial traffic on the LEDs to verify if the board is working, but this board requires a Mini-B cable. The FTDI Cable is well protected against the elements, but is large and cannot be embedded into a project as easily. The FTDI Basic uses DTR to cause a hardware reset where the FTDI cable uses the RTS signal.

This board was designed to decrease the cost of Arduino development and increase ease of use (the auto-reset feature rocks!). Our Arduino Pro and LilyPad boards use this type of connector.

Note: We know a lot of you prefer microUSB over miniUSB. Never fear, we’ve got you covered! Check out our FT231X Breakout for your micro FTDI needs!

USB has become the core of many projects, but it's troublesome to test USB voltage levels and current usage using a breadboard. Some people try to splice cables and alligator clip onto frayed ends, but it's difficult to get solid readings. This USB Tester will make it much easier to monitor any USB project's power source.As part of the USB spec, ports are limited to 500mA, so you want to monitor how close you are. Most people use USB hubs, both powered and unpowered, and with many devices connected, you can end up with less than 5V which can cause havoc on you projects. The USB Tester will make it a snap to monitor voltage levels and current usage without having to re-wire your breadboard. Just connect to your oscilloscope or DMM test leads, and you’re good to go! The USB Tester has both banana clip sized drills and standard 0.1” headers. When you are not testing current you can add a jumper for normal operation. The USB D+/D- pins are also broken out so you can monitor those on an oscilloscope, or for USB sniffing.Comes with an assembled PCB and a jumper. For more information on how to use, check out the product page.

FriedCircuits USB Tester v1.3 (5:39)

This adapter board is designed to make adding wireless point-to-point or mesh networking easy. I looked at all the XBee adapter boards available and decided to design something better:

Onboard 3.3V regulator to cleanly power your XBee, up to 250mA

Level shifting circuitry means that its trivial to connect it to 5V circuitry such as an Arduino without risk of damage

Two LEDs, one for activity (RSSI), the other for power (Associate)

10-pin 2mm sockets included to protect the modem and allow easy swapping, upgrading or recycling

All the commonly used pins are brought out along the edge, making it easy to breadboard or wire up

Specifically created for use with an FTDI cable to connect to a computer via USB. This means that you can use or upgrade the adapter with a computer simply by plugging in a cable

Works with XBee series 1 and 2 as well as Series 1&2 Pro modules

The kit includes a PCB and all components necessary to build the adapter, unassembled. Tools are not included. This kit is really easy and will only take 15 minutes to build, even if you've never soldered before.

Please note that the adapter does not include an XBee module, they must be purchased separately. Check out this page for a comparison of all the XBee's available. If you want to connect this up to a computer's USB port you'll need a FTDI cable or FTDI friend (also not included)

For more information, check out the project page for instructions, documentation, tutorials and example code!

Add Internet to your next project with an adorable, bite-sized WiFi microcontroller, at a price you like! The ESP8266 processor from Espressif is an 80 MHz microcontroller with a full WiFi front-end (both as client and access point) and TCP/IP stack with DNS support as well. While this chip has been very popular, its also been very difficult to use. Most of the low cost modules are not breadboard friendly, don't have an onboard 500mA 3.3V regulator or level shifting, and aren't CE or FCC emitter certified....UNTIL NOW!

The Adafruit HUZZAH ESP8266 breakout is what we designed to make working with this chip super easy and a lot of fun. We took a certified module with an onboard antenna, and plenty of pins, and soldered it onto our designed breakout PCBs. We added in:

Reset button,

User button that can also put the chip into bootloading mode,

Red LED you can blink,

Level shifting on the UART and reset pin,

3.3V out, 500mA regulator (you'll want to assume the ESP8266 can draw up to 250mA so budget accordingly)

Two diode-protected power inputs (one for a USB cable, another for a battery)

Two parallel, breadboard-friendly breakouts on either side give you access to:

1 x Analog input (1.0V max)

9 x GPIO (3.3V logic), which can also be used for I2C or SPI

2 x UART pins

2 x 3-6V power inputs, reset, enable, LDO-disable, 3.3V output

One breakout at the end has an "FTDI" pinout so you can plug in an FTDI or console cable to upload software and read/write debugging information via the UART. When you're done with your coding, remove the cable, and this little module can be embeded into your project box.

Each module comes pre-loaded with NodeMCU's Lua interpreter (NodeMCU 0.9.5 build 20150318 / Lua 5.1.4 to be specific), you can run commands, and 'save' Lua programs directly to the module's Flash using a USB-Serial converter cable. But, if you'd like, you can skip Lua and go direct to using the Arduino IDE. Once you download the ESP8266 core, you can treat it just like a microcontroller+WiFi board, no other processors needed!

Each order comes with one assembled and tested HUZZAH ESP8266 breakout board, and a stick of 0.1" header that you can solder on and plug the breakout into a breadboard. A soldering iron and solder are required for that, and aren't included. Solderless breadboard also not included. You'll really want a USB-serial cable such as a USB console cable (good for Windows, not suggested for MacOSX users),  FTDI Friend (great for any OS), or FTDI cable (great for any OS)  to upload software to the HUZZAH ESP8266! Our essential tutorial has wiring, pinouts, assembly, downloads, and more!

This is a pre-wired and waterproofed version of the DS18B20 sensor. Handy for when you need to measure something far away, or in wet conditions. While the sensor is good up to 125°C the cable is jacketed in PVC so we suggest keeping it under 100°C. Because they are digital, you don't get any signal degradation even over long distances! These 1-wire digital temperature sensors are fairly precise (±0.5°C over much of the range) and can give up to 12 bits of precision from the onboard digital-to-analog converter. They work great with any microcontroller using a single digital pin, and you can even connect multiple ones to the same pin, each one has a unique 64-bit ID burned in at the factory to differentiate them. Usable with 3.0-5.0V systems.The only downside is they use the Dallas 1-Wire protocol, which is somewhat complex, and requires a bunch of code to parse out the communication. If you want something really simple, and you have an analog input pin, the TMP36 is trivial to get going.We toss in a 4.7k resistor, which is required as a pullup from the DATA to VCC line when using the sensor. We don't have a detailed tutorial up yet but you can get started by using the Dallas Temperature Control Arduino library which requires also the OneWire Library.

Give your 40 pin, 0.5mm pitch, devices a strrrreeeetch with this extension board.  This 40pin FPC extension board has two 40-pin flex connectors (both are bottom contact type), and an extension cable to add ~22cm (20cm cable plus 2cm board)  Each order comes with one board a 20cm long, 40-pin 0.5mm pitch FPC cable and board. Works great with our 40pin TFTs!

This cable will let you swap out the stock 150mm long flex cable from a Raspberry Pi Camera (either 'classic' or 'NoIR' type) or Raspberry Pi Display for a different size. Works great, just carefully open the connector on the Pi and slip this one in.

This cable is 2 meters long. We have cables in a ton of sizes so you can have the perfect fit. Each order comes with one cable, Pi Camera not included (but we have those in the shop as well)

Please note, we did test this length cable with our Pi Model B/B+ and a Pi Camera and it worked great but 2 meters is really long for this kind of camera protocol, so if you have a very electrically noisy environment (inside a tesla coil?) you may have corrupted images.

The first 'official' Pi Zero case from the Raspberry Pi Foundation is here in Raspberry Pi's sleek pink and white! While we've had our own classic Pi Zero case for a little while now, the Pi Foundation celebrates the release of the Pi Zero W with this impressive, well-designed effort that is definitely what we've come to expect from the folks who made the Raspberry Pi.

The case comes in four parts – a pink base and three different options for the top of the case, all of which are white. You can snap on lids according to how you're using your Pi Zero. If you want to utilize your Pi Zero's GPIO pins, there's one lid with a cut-out above the pins for more flexibility. Or, if you're not a fan of seeing your Pi, there's a white lid that conveniently fills in the gap. Lastly, there's a neat lid with a small circular hole in the center for snapping in a Raspberry Pi Camera Board!

This case's smart design and customizability makes it a worthy addition to the Pi case genre! It also comes with a little bonus: a 1.5" mini camera cable! Great if you want to add a Pi Camera to your Zero W or v1.3, it's a compact alternative to the standard lengthier cable.

This product includes the case base with three lids, mini camera cable, and rubber bumper feet. It does not come with a Raspberry Pi or other components. It's designed for the Pi Zero W but will also work with Pi Zero v1.3. We also offer the Pi Foundation's official case for the Pi 3, B+ and Pi 2.

PIR sensors are used to detect motion from pets/humanoids from about 20 feet away (possibly works on zombies, not guaranteed). This one has an adjustable delay before firing (approx 2-4 seconds), adjustable sensitivity and we include a 1 foot (30 cm) cable with a socket so you can easily reposition the sensor or mount it using the two holes on either side.

Runs on 5V-12V power (if you need to run it off of 3V you can do that by bypassing the regulator, but that means doing a bit of soldering). Digital signal output is 3.3V high/low. Sensing range is about 7 meters (120 degree cone).For a full tutorial with wiring diagrams, CircuitPython and Arduino code examples and project ideas, PIR sensor tutorial page!

This is the LilyPad revision of our FTDI Basic. It is the same as our other FTDI Basic, but has a purple LilyPad board which is half the thickness.

This is a basic breakout board for the FTDI FT232RL USB to serial IC. The pinout of this board matches the FTDI cable to work with official Arduino and cloned 5V Arduino boards. It can also be used for general serial applications. The major difference with this board is that it brings out the DTR pin as opposed to the RTS pin of the FTDI cable. The DTR pin allows an Arduino target to auto-reset when a new Sketch is downloaded. This is a really nice feature to have and allows a sketch to be downloaded without having to hit the reset button. This board will auto reset any Arduino board that has the reset pin brought out to a 6-pin connector.

The pins labeled BLK and GRN correspond to the colored wires on the FTDI cable. The black wire on the FTDI cable is GND, green is CTS. Use these BLK and GRN pins to align the FTDI basic board with your Arduino target.

This board has TX and RX LEDs that make it a bit better to use over the FTDI cable. You can actually see serial traffic on the LEDs to verify if the board is working.

This board was designed to decrease the cost of Arduino development and increase ease of use (the auto-reset feature rocks!). Our Arduino Pro boards and LilyPads use this type of connector.

One of the nice features of this board is a jumper on the back of the board that allows the board to be configured to either 3.3V or 5V (both power output and IO level). This board ship as 5V, but you can cut the default trace and add a solder jumper if you need to switch to 3.3V.

Note: We know a lot of you prefer microUSB over miniUSB. Never fear, we’ve got you covered! Check out our FT231X Breakout for your micro FTDI needs!

Note: A portion of this sale is given back to Dr. Leah Buechley for continued development and education of e-textiles.