A button is a button, and an LED is a LED, but this LED illuminated button is a lovely combination of both! It's a medium sized button, large enough to press easily but not too big that it gets in the way of your project panel. It has a built in LED that can be controlled separately from the switch action - either to indicate or just to look good.The body is a black plastic with the LED built inside. There are two contacts for the button and two contacts for the LED, one marked + and one -. The forward voltage of the LED is about 2.2V so connect a 220 to 1000 ohm resistor in series just as you would with any other LED to your 3V or higher power supply.This particular button has a yellow body and LED and is momentary, normally open. The two switch contacts are not connected normally. When you push the button they will temporarily connect until the button is released. The LED is separated from the button, so you can make it light up when pressed, light up when not pressed, always lit, etc.

16mm Illuminated Pushbuttons (7:54)

A switch is a switch, and an LED is an LED, but this LED illuminated button is a lovely combination of both! It's a medium sized button, large enough to press easily but not too big that it gets in the way of your project panel. It has a built in LED that can be controlled separately from the switch action - either to indicate or just to look good.The body is a black plastic with the LED built inside. There are two contacts for the button and two contacts for the LED, one marked + and one -. The forward voltage of the LED is about 2.2V so connect a 220 to 1000 ohm resistor in series just as you would with any other LED to your 3V or higher power supply.This particular button has a green body and LED and is latching on/off. The two switch contacts are either connected or disconnected. When you push the button they will switch from one to the other, like an on-off switch. The LED is separated from the button, so you can make it light up when on, light up when off, always lit, etc.

16mm Illuminated Pushbuttons (7:54)

Little clicky switches are standard input "buttons" on electronic projects. These work best in a PCB but can be used on a solderless breadboard as shown in this tutorial. The pins are normally open (disconnected) and when the button is pressed they are momentarily closed.These buttons are bigger than the 6mm ones we carry, and come in a pack of 15. Each button comes with a candy-colored round cap that snaps on. You get three of each color-- blue, grey, yellow, green, and red. The round plastic button tops affix easily to the tactile switch body.

Assembled button dimensions: 12mm x 12mm x 12mm

The WAV Trigger is a unique high-fidelity polyphonic audio player with surprising capabilities. Supporting up to 2048 uncompressed 16-bit, 44.1kHz wav files – the same quality as an audio CD – the WAV Trigger can play and mix up to 14 stereo tracks simultaneously and independently, with very low latency. Tracks can be controlled via 16 programmable trigger inputs, or by using a native serial control protocol or even MIDI.

Trigger inputs can be connected directly to switches and buttons, or to digital outputs from sensors or another microcontroller. Alternate functions can be specified using a free cross-platform GUI application, and allow triggers to play sequential or random tracks, pause and resume groups of tracks and even control volume. An Arduino library allows for complex serial control like real-time mixing, starting multiple tracks in sample-sync and smooth cross-fading between tracks.

On-board sample rate conversion allows for smoothly changing playback speed/pitch from 0.5x to 2x. in real-time.

MIDI allows you to use the WAV Trigger as a polyphonic sampling synthesizer to play your own sounds from any MIDI keyboard controller. MIDI Channels and Note numbers are mapped to track numbers, and MIDI Controllers adjust volume as well as attack and release times. MIDI Program Change is supported to switch between up to 16 banks of 128 sounds. The WAV Trigger audio engine even implements, pitch bending, voice stealing (oldest playing voices are used for new MIDI Notes when all 14 voices are being used), note attack (fade-in), note release (fade-out) and latency averages 8 ms.

The WAV Trigger supports both SDSC (up to 2GB) and SDHC (up to 32GB) type microSD cards.

Check the link in the documents below to keep up with the latest Firmware updates!

Note: This product is a collaboration with Robertsonics. A portion of each sales goes back to them for product support and continued development.

Features

Supports up to 2048 uncompressed 16-bit stereo WAV files at 44.1kHz – CD quality

Polyphonic! Play and mix up to 14 stereo tracks independently and simultaneously

Sample-accurate starting and playback of up to 14 parallel stereo tracks

Trigger-to-sound delay: 8 msecs typ, 12 msecs max

MIDI control: Velocity-sensitive triggering of up to16 banks of 128 tracks

Real-time playback rate control and MIDI Pitch Bend

Pause and resume individual or groups of tracks. Multiple random trigger ranges

True line-level stereo output: 2.1V RMS ground centered, 100dB SNR

On-board mono audio amplifier and speaker connector: 2W into 4 Ohms, 1.25W into 8 Ohms

16 trigger inputs are individually adjustable for contact closure, 3.3V or 5.0V control

Trigger inputs can be individually inverted, and/or set to be edge, latched or level sensitive

Volumes adjustable from +10dB to -70dB in 0.5dB increments

Firmware volume fades (attacks & decays) and cross-fades

A dedicated “Play” status digital output pin

3.3V and 5.0V output pins

Extensive serial control. Arduino library available. Pin compatible with SparkFun FTDI Basic

This is the PurpleTooth Jamboree a full-function board, designed to provide audio bridge support through the A2DP, HFP, and AVRCP Bluetooth Classic profiles. The module is also dual mode which means it can operate as Bluetooth 2.1 or Bluetooth 4.0 (BLE). It includes circuitry for converting single-ended audio inputs and microphones to balanced inputs for the module, and converting the module’s balanced audio output to an amplified single-ended signal suitable for line-input and headphones. The PurpleTooth also includes buttons for pairing and sending audio commands to remote devices, battery charge circuitry, and six-pin serial headers pinned out for connecting to either FTDI basic boards or boards like the Arduino Pro, Pro Mini, and LilyPad.

Each PurpleTooth Jamboree comes standard with a BC127 Bluetooth module, an extremely competent and easy-to-use dual-mode Bluetooth radio. In command mode, any data coming in on the serial port is treated as commands and will be parsed accordingly by the module’s command interpreter. In data mode, any data arriving over the serial port will be directly piped out over the Bluetooth link, assuming that the module is connected to another device using the Serial Port Protocol.

The PurpleTooth is equipped with one Mic in / LINE in 3.5mm jack (with additional 4-pin through-hole mic adapters), one Headphone / LINE out 3.5mm jack (with additional 4-pin through-hole L/R speaker adapters), seven button volume, track, play and pair control, serial to micro and FTDI support, and a USB micro port for power and updating the firmware (you will need a 5V FTDI for serial commands).

This single-pole, double-throw (SPDT) momentary switch can be used as a general-purpose micro switch, but the long lever arm makes it especially useful as a tactile bump sensor for your robot (e.g whiskers or antennae). The switch body dimension is 20.0 x 6.4 x 10.2 mm, and the lever arm is 50 mm long.

This single-pole, double-throw (SPDT) momentary switch can be used as a general-purpose micro switch, but the 2"-long lever arm makes it especially useful as a simple tactile obstacle-detector for your robot. The switch body dimension is 20.0 x 6.4 x 10.2 mm (0.79" x 0.25" x 0.40"), and the lever arm is 50 mm (2") long. This three-pin switch can also be used as a two-pin single-pole, single-throw (SPST) switch that is open or closed by default, depending on which two pins are used.

Dimensions (in mm) of snap-action switch with 50mm lever: 3-pin, SPDT, 5A.

For a more sophisticated tactile sensor, see our force-sensing resistors.

People often buy this product together with:

This single-pole, double-throw (SPDT) momentary switch can be used as a general-purpose micro switch or tactile bump sensor for your robot. The switch body dimension is 20.0 x 6.4 x 10.2 mm, and the 16.3mm lever arm is has a roller at the tip.

This single-pole, double-throw (SPDT) momentary switch can be used as a general-purpose micro switch or tactile obstacle-detector for your robot. The switch body dimension is 20.0 x 6.4 x 10.2 mm (0.79" x 0.25" x 0.40"), and the 16.3mm (0.64") lever arm has a roller at the tip. This three-pin switch can also be used as a two-pin single-pole, single-throw (SPST) switch that is open or closed by default, depending on which two pins are used.

Dimensions (in mm) of snap-action switch with 16.3mm roller lever: 3-pin, SPDT, 5A.

For a more sophisticated tactile sensor, see our force-sensing resistors.

People often buy this product together with:

This is a 3-terminal microswitch two pack, each equipped with a 19mm roller lever actuator. This switch has a great ‘clicky’ sound to it with a nice tactile feel and is perfect when used for a slider, 3D printer, or robot project. Each microswitch is rated for 5A at 250VAC.

Housing Dimensions:

19.8 x 15.8 x 10.3 mm

By popular demand, we now have these buttons with a full color RGB LED ring light! These chrome-plated metal buttons are rugged, but certainly not lacking in flair. Simply drill a 16mm hole into any material up to 1/4" thick and you can fit these in place – there's even a rubber gasket to keep water out of the enclosure. On the front of the button is a flat metal actuator, surrounded by a plastic RGB LED ring. On the back there are two gold contacts for the button and 4 for the RGB LED ring (one anode and 3 cathodes for each red, green, and blue). Power the anode at 3-6V and light up the red, green, and blue LEDs by pulling their designated contacts to ground as you desire – there's a built in resistor! If you want to use this with a higher voltage, say 12V or 24V, simply add a 1K ohm resistor in series with the LED cathodes to keep the LED current at around 20mA. You can PWM the RGB pins to make any color you like.This button is a momentary push button, when you press it the 'normally-open' contact shorts to the common contact. When you release it, the contacts open up again.The switch and LED are electrically separated, so to change the color, use a microcontroller to both read the contact pins and toggle the color control pins.

These chrome-plated metal buttons are rugged and look real good while doing it! Simply drill a 16mm hole into any material up to 1/2" thick and you can fit these in place, there's even a rubber gasket to keep water out of the enclosure. On the front of the button is a flat metal actuator, surrounded by a white plastic LED ring. On the back there are 3 contacts for the button (common, normally-open and normally-closed) and 2 for the white LED ring (+ and -). Connect 3 to 6V to the LED to have it light up nicely, there's a built in resistor! If you want to use this with a higher voltage, say 12V or 24V, simply add a 470 ohm resistor in series with the LED connection to keep the LED current at around 20mA.This button is an on/off switch button, when you press it the 'normally-open' contact shorts to the common contact and the button stays 'pressed'. When you press it a second time, the button springs open, and the contacts open up again.The switch and LED are separated, so you could wire it to turn on when pressed or vice versa or whatever you wish! Check the tech details for information!

These chrome-plated metal buttons are rugged and look real good while doing it! Simply drill a 16mm hole into any material up to 1/2" thick and you can fit these in place, there's even a rubber gasket to keep water out of the enclosure. On the front of the button is a flat metal actuator, surrounded by a red plastic LED ring. On the back there are 3 contacts for the button (common, normally-open and normally-closed) and 2 for the red LED ring (+ and -). Connect 3 to 6V to the LED to have it light up nicely, there's a built in resistor! If you want to use this with a higher voltage, say 12V or 24V, simply add a 470 ohm resistor in series with the LED connection to keep the LED current at around 20mA.This button is a momentary push button, when you press it the 'normally-open' contact shorts to the common contact. When you release it, the contacts open up again.The switch and LED are separated, so you could wire it to turn on when pressed or vice versa or whatever you wish! Check the tech details for information!

These chrome-plated metal buttons are rugged and look real good while doing it! Simply drill a 16mm hole into any material up to 1/2" thick and you can fit these in place, there's even a rubber gasket to keep water out of the enclosure. On the front of the button is a flat metal actuator, surrounded by a blue plastic LED ring. On the back there are 3 contacts for the button (common, normally-open and normally-closed) and 2 for the blue LED ring (+ and -). Connect 3 to 6V to the LED to have it light up nicely, there's a built in resistor! If you want to use this with a higher voltage, say 12V or 24V, simply add a 470 ohm resistor in series with the LED connection to keep the LED current at around 20mA.This button is an on/off switch button, when you press it the 'normally-open' contact shorts to the common contact and the button stays 'pressed'. When you press it a second time, the button springs open, and the contacts open up again.The switch and LED are separated, so you could wire it to turn on when pressed or vice versa or whatever you wish! Check the tech details for information!

These chrome-plated metal buttons are rugged and look real good while doing it! Simply drill a 16mm hole into any material up to 1/2" thick and you can fit these in place, there's even a rubber gasket to keep water out of the enclosure. On the front of the button is a flat metal actuator, surrounded by a red plastic LED ring. On the back there are 3 contacts for the button (common, normally-open and normally-closed) and 2 for the red LED ring (+ and -). Connect 3 to 6V to the LED to have it light up nicely, there's a built in resistor! If you want to use this with a higher voltage, say 12V or 24V, simply add a 470 ohm resistor in series with the LED connection to keep the LED current at around 20mA.This button is an on/off switch button, when you press it the 'normally-open' contact shorts to the common contact and the button stays 'pressed'. When you press it a second time, the button springs open, and the contacts open up again.The switch and LED are separated, so you could wire it to turn on when pressed or vice versa or whatever you wish! Check the tech details for information!

A button is a button, and an LED is a LED, but this LED illuminated button is a lovely combination of both! It's a medium sized button, large enough to press easily but not too big that it gets in the way of your project panel. It has a built in LED that can be controlled separately from the switch action - either to indicate or just to look good.The body is a black plastic with the LED built inside. There are two contacts for the button and two contacts for the LED, one marked + and one -. The forward voltage of the LED is about 2.2V so connect a 220 to 1000 ohm resistor in series just as you would with any other LED to your 3V or higher power supply.This particular button has a red body and LED and is momentary, normally open. The two switch contacts are not connected normally. When you push the button they will temporarily connect until the button is released. The LED is separated from the button, so you can make it light up when pressed, light up when not pressed, always lit, etc.

16mm Illuminated Pushbuttons (7:54)

A button is a button, and a switch is a switch, but these translucent arcade buttons are in a class of their own. They're the same size as common arcade controls (often referred to as 30mm diameter) but have some nice things going for them that justify the extra dollar.First, they look fantastic, all 6 colors have a crystal translucent glossy look. Although they do not have LEDs built in, we're confident that sticking a diffused LED into the body would make it light up very nicely. They are also shorter than cheap arcade controls, and snap into place, so you only need 1.5" of depth (1.25" if you bend the contacts over). The button action is smooth, without a strong click, yet you can definitely feel when the button is pressed. A tiny micro-switch is pre-installed, with gold plated contacts.

A button is a button, and a switch is a switch, but this LED illuminated arcade buttons is in a class of its own. It's similar in size to an arcade button (and will fit in holes drilled for 'standard' 30mm buttons) but has a built in LED that can be controlled separately from the switch action - either to indicate or just to look good.The body is a black plastic, and a lamp holder fits inside. These were originally designed for 'incandescent' lamps but is easy to use with an LED, just wrap the legs around the holder as shown. It comes with a clear blue LED but honestly, we suggest finding a diffused LED to use instead, with a wide illumination since this clear one doesn't fill the square as nicely as it could. (The button factory didn't have diffused LEDs available). You can even disassemble the button itself and slip an image under the clear cover for backlighting.The button comes with a normally-open micro-switch. Once you have put in the LED you like, just snap in the micro-switch. You can always remove it later to change out the LED color. The micro-switch is fairly clicky, so you will hear and feel it when it actuates.

A button is a button, and a switch is a switch, but these translucent arcade buttons are in a class of their own. They're the same size as common arcade controls (often referred to as 30mm diameter) but have some nice things going for them that justify the extra dollar.First, they look fantastic, all 6 colors have a crystal translucent glossy look. Although they do not have LEDs built in, we're confident that sticking a diffused LED into the body would make it light up very nicely. They are also shorter than cheap arcade controls, and snap into place, so you only need 1.5" of depth (1.25" if you bend the contacts over). The button action is smooth, without a strong click, yet you can definitely feel when the button is pressed. A tiny micro-switch is pre-installed, with gold plated contacts.

A button is a button, and a switch is a switch, but these translucent arcade buttons are in a class of their own. They're the same size as common arcade controls (often referred to as 30mm diameter) but have some nice things going for them that justify the extra dollar.First, they look fantastic, all 6 colors have a crystal translucent glossy look. Although they do not have LEDs built in, we're confident that sticking a diffused LED into the body would make it light up very nicely. They are also shorter than cheap arcade controls, and snap into place, so you only need 1.5" of depth (1.25" if you bend the contacts over). The button action is smooth, without a strong click, yet you can definitely feel when the button is pressed. A tiny micro-switch is pre-installed, with gold plated contacts.

A button is a button, and a switch is a switch, but these translucent arcade buttons are in a class of their own. They're the same size as common arcade controls (often referred to as 30mm diameter) but have some nice things going for them that justify the extra dollar.First, they look fantastic, all 6 colors have a crystal translucent glossy look. Although they do not have LEDs built in, we're confident that sticking a diffused LED into the body would make it light up very nicely. They are also shorter than cheap arcade controls, and snap into place, so you only need 1.5" of depth (1.25" if you bend the contacts over). The button action is smooth, without a strong click, yet you can definitely feel when the button is pressed. A tiny micro-switch is pre-installed, with gold plated contacts.

These are very thin variable potentiometers. By pressing down on various parts of the strip, the resistance linearly changes from 100Ohms to 10,000Ohms allowing the user to very accurately calculate the relative position on the strip. Can be used as an accurate positional indicator for CNC head positioning, variable user input (volume level input for example), straight user input (multiple button areas translate to given resistance levels), and many other applications.

Unit comes with adhesive backing. Connector is 0.1" spaced and bread board friendly.

Note: These potentiometers work great with a finger, or stylus.

These are very thin variable potentiometers. By pressing down on various parts of the strip, the resistance linearly changes from 100Ohms to 10,000Ohms allowing the user to very accurately calculate the relative position on the strip. Can be used as an accurate positional indicator for CNC head positioning, variable user input (volume level input for example), straight user input (multiple button areas translate to given resistance levels), and many other applications.

Unit comes with adhesive backing. Connector is 0.1" spaced and bread board friendly.

Note: These potentiometers work great with a finger, or stylus. For premium repeatability, the wiper listed below is perfect for machine and object positioning.

If you'd like a compact display, with buttons and a joystick - we've got what you're looking for. The Adafruit 128x64 OLED Bonnet for Raspberry Pi is the big sister to our mini PiOLED add-on. This version has 128x64 pixels (instead of 128x32) and a much larger screen besides. With the OLED display in the center, we had some space on either side so we added a 5-way joystick and two pushbuttons. Great for when you want to have a control interface for your project.

These displays are small, only about 1.3" diagonal, but very readable due to the high contrast of an OLED display. This screen is made of 128x64 individual white OLED pixels and because the display makes its own light, no backlight is required. This reduces the power required to run the OLED and is why the display has such high contrast; we really like this miniature display for its crispness!

Please note that this display is too small to act as a primary display for the Pi (e.g. it can't act like or display what would normally be on the HDMI screen). Instead, we recommend using pygame for drawing or writing text.

Using the display and controls in python is very easy, we have a library ready-to-go for the SSD1306 OLED chipset and the joystick/buttons are connected to GPIO pins on the Pi. Our example code allows you to draw images, text, whatever you like, using the Python imaging library. We also have example code for using the joystick/buttons/OLED together. Our tests showed 15 FPS update rates so you can do animations or simple video.

Comes completely pre-assembled and tested so you don't need to do anything but plug it in and install our Python code! Works with any Raspberry Pi computer, including the original Pi 1, B+, Pi 2, Pi 3 and Pi Zero.

Instructions, software, downloads and more in the Learning Guide!

These are very thin variable potentiometers. By pressing down on various parts of the strip, the resistance linearly changes from 100Ohms to 10,000Ohms allowing the user to very accurately calculate the relative position on the strip. Can be used as an accurate positional indicator for CNC head positioning, variable user input (volume level input for example), straight user input (multiple button areas translate to given resistance levels), and many other applications.

Unit comes with adhesive backing. Connector is 0.1" spaced and bread board friendly. However the connector does not fit nicely into standard female headers because the pins are too small.

Note: These potentiometers work great with a finger, or stylus.

This is a very small infrared receiver based on the TSOP85 receiver from Vishay. This receiver has all the filtering and 38kHz demodulation built into the unit. Simply point a IR remote at the receiver, hit a button, and you’ll see a stream of 1s and 0s out of the data pin.

What does “P” mean? “P” is for “panel mount” in this product. This Grove – Button is a sister version of original Grove - Button. They are identical except the Grove connecter is moved to the back so that you can easily use it as a neat and wire-free human interface device.

We designed this board to give the user a low profile button without any sharp edges. Button closes when you push it and opens when you release (momentary push button).

LilyPad is a wearable e-textile technology developed by Leah Buechley and cooperatively designed by Leah and SparkFun. Each LilyPad was creatively designed to have large connecting pads to allow them to be sewn into clothing. Various input, output, power, and sensor boards are available. They’re even washable!

Note: A portion of this sale is given back to Dr. Leah Buechley for continued development and education of e-textiles.

Features

8x16mm

Thin 0.8mm PCB